Monday, March 09, 2009

Lillie F. Schmidt

"The weather was smoky with strong winds, flood tide, sea very high." So wrote Keeper J.W. Howard about the wreck of the schooner, Lillie F. Schmidt, on March 9, 1893. The ship stranded on the bar about 500 yards offshore at 6 am. She was ten miles from the Life Saving Station.

According to the keeper's log book, the distance was "long and laborious." After being alerted to the wreck just before 11 am, it took the station crew (with the help of mules) three and one half hours to pull the half ton "beach cart" loaded with their life saving gear to the schooner. By 3:30 in the afternoon all seven sailors had been brought safely ashore in four trips by breeches buoy.

Keeper Howard noted that "the men of wrecked schr were so worn out could not get them to station -- sent them up to the settlement and had them cared for the distance was so great that they could not travel." The life savers returned, with their beach cart, to the station at Hatteras Inlet.

There was no beach patrol that night. As keeper Howard recorded in his log, "up til 12, men was so tired and worn out after walking over twenty miles [the keeper's report is an understatement...remember they were also pulling and pushing a half ton cart with iron wheels over sand in strong winds and flood tide, plus rescuing seven seamen] I thought theys ought to rest."

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter is Lou Ann's story of participating in the 2008 Christmas Bird Count on Portsmouth Island. You can read it here.

To read about Philip's new book, Digging up Uncle Evans, History, Ghost Tales, & Stories from Ocracoke Island, please click here.

Sunday, March 08, 2009

Off-Island Friends

Early yesterday afternoon, as I was sitting in my side yard reading Newsweek and soaking up the sunshine, I got a call from my friend Jim who was on the island with friends. He'd come to Ocracoke from his home in Manteo just for the weekend. We were sitting on the pizer catching up on news of each other's lives when Dallie and her sister Lee stopped by. It was a great afternoon to relax and visit with friends and family.

After my visitors left I biked down to the Community Store for a few groceries, then set to work preparing my broccoli and cheese soup. Amy and Lachlan were on their way home after picking up David's parents, Pat & Steve, who will be on the island for several weeks. My soup was ready as they pulled into the driveway (with a bottle of red wine and bakery fresh bread).

It was a good day even if I never got my daily walk on the beach.

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter is Lou Ann's story of participating in the 2008 Christmas Bird Count on Portsmouth Island. You can read it here.

To read about Philip's new book, Digging up Uncle Evans, History, Ghost Tales, & Stories from Ocracoke Island, please click here.

Saturday, March 07, 2009

Friday Night Photos

Pickin' & Grinnin" continues at the Community Store on Friday evenings (6-8). I thought our readers might enjoy a couple of photos from yesterday. Many thanks to Rhonda Bates for providing the images.






You can click on the pictures to view larger images.

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter is Lou Ann's story of participating in the 2008 Christmas Bird Count on Portsmouth Island. You can read it here.

To read about Philip's new book, Digging up Uncle Evans, History, Ghost Tales, & Stories from Ocracoke Island, please click here.

Friday, March 06, 2009

Theodore Mutro

Yesterday evening I carried a plate of food to Mabel's house. Mabel's daddy, Theodore Mutro, died suddenly on Monday. He was one of the last islanders who, as servicemen, had been assigned to Ocracoke during WWII. As a member of the US Coast Guard, Mutro was part of the force that put an end to the carnage inflicted on Allied shipping by German U boats in 1942. While on the island he fell in love and married a local woman, Ollie Styron. I'm told it was Ollie's cooking that clinched the deal!

I had only planned on staying for a a few minutes, just to offer my condolences. But Mabel and her family insisted that I sit down. We chatted about old times, remembered island characters long gone, and shared humorous stories. I was offered fried chicken and homemade potato salad (how could I resist?). Before I knew it, it was nearly nine o'clock. I'd been there almost two hours.

On the way home I thought about this preserved island tradition of bringing food and comfort to grieving neighbors. It takes a burden off the family, provides emotional support, and is one more opportunity to participate in genuine community.

A graveside service will be held this morning at 11 o'clock at the Community Cemetery.

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter is Lou Ann's story of participating in the 2008 Christmas Bird Count on Portsmouth Island. You can read it here.

To read about Philip's new book, Digging up Uncle Evans, History, Ghost Tales, & Stories from Ocracoke Island, please click here.

Thursday, March 05, 2009

Book Recommendation

I am spending part of my time this winter reading several books about the Outer Banks that I have neglected far too long. Right now I am about half way through David Wright and David Zoby's Fire on the Beach: Recovering the Lost Story of Richard Etheridge and the Pea Island Lifesavers. It is the story of the only all-black Life Saving Station in the country, and so far it is a compelling tale. Appointed as the Service's first black keeper in 1879, Etheridge served with distinction for twenty years. There is little about Ocracoke in the book (the first station was established on Ocracoke in 1883), but Wright and Zoby share much fascinating history of the Life Saving Service, particularly the early stations that dotted the North Carolina Coast.

The book is widely available on the Outer Banks. If you are here now, or will be this coming season, consider checking the book out of our library, or purchasing a copy at one of our local book stores.

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter is Lou Ann's story of participating in the 2008 Christmas Bird Count on Portsmouth Island. You can read it here.

To read about Philip's new book, Digging up Uncle Evans, History, Ghost Tales, & Stories from Ocracoke Island, please click here.

Wednesday, March 04, 2009

Crunch

I can hear the ice crystals crunch under my feet as I walk the short path through the woods between my house and the Village Craftsmen. But the sky is clear, and sunlight and shadows dapple the trees, fences, and ground. The power went off for a couple of hours two nights ago, so I cranked up the gas log stove, and hunkered down under the covers. At least I haven't had any frozen water pipes these last several days, in spite of the unseasonable cold snap. The daffodils are hanging their heads this morning, but I think they'll make it. By the end of the week we're expecting real spring weather again.

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter is Lou Ann's story of participating in the 2008 Christmas Bird Count on Portsmouth Island. You can read it here.

To read about Philip's new book, Digging up Uncle Evans, History, Ghost Tales, & Stories from Ocracoke Island, please click here.

Tuesday, March 03, 2009

More Island Culture

Yesterday, as a powdery dusting of snow fell on Ocracoke, and the temperature started to plunge toward freezing, I was reminded of the coming evening's entertainment, Backyard Adventure, a play in one act written and directed by occasional island resident, Cynthia Mitchell. It would be a great way to spend a cold and dark winter night...much better than sitting home alone, trying to stay warm by the fire. And it was -- a great evening's entertainment, that is.

The play was produced by the Ocracoke Youth Center, and included six students (ranging in age from elementary school to high school), and one brave and talented adult. When I think of school age productions I remember so many performances where the actors just stood like statues and delivered their lines with hardly a nod to emotion. Not last night. All of the actors were animated and engaged. They knew how to project their voices, and spoke their lines with feeling and impressive stage presence.

The play was short, about thirty minutes, but the audience was drawn into the drama from the moment the first actor stepped on the stage. Many thanks to DJ, Chris, Deana, Phyllis, Eldon, Kevin, Caroline, Kitty, Cynthia, and all of the other folks who made this production a reality. It is remarkable what talent we have here on this tiny sliver of sand so far removed from the mainland.

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter is Lou Ann's story of participating in the 2008 Christmas Bird Count on Portsmouth Island. You can read it here.

To read about Philip's new book, Digging up Uncle Evans, History, Ghost Tales, & Stories from Ocracoke Island, please click here.

Monday, March 02, 2009

An Historical Note

It was 172 years ago yesterday that Justice of the Peace, Jacob Gaskill, and his cousin & local tavern owner, Willis Williams, were involved in an altercation on a foot bridge that spanned the "Ditch," the narrow channel that connects Cockle Creek (Silver Lake Harbor) with Pamlico Sound. When it was over Williams lay mortally wounded from a musket ball to his neck. Gaskill was tried on the mainland and convicted of "felonious slaying." His punishment was the letter "M" branded in the palm of his hand.

Many of the details of this event are lost to history, but one can't help but wonder what the dispute was about, why it escalated as it did, and what the jury learned that kept Jacob Gaskill from the gallows, convinced them to return a verdict of less than murder, and led them to impose a relatively light (light, considering the alternatives...but admittedly barbaric) punishment. We will probably never know.

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter is Lou Ann's story of participating in the 2008 Christmas Bird Count on Portsmouth Island. You can read it here.

To read about Philip's new book, Digging up Uncle Evans, History, Ghost Tales, & Stories from Ocracoke Island (which includes the story of the Jacob Gaskill & Willis Williams), please click here.

Sunday, March 01, 2009

Variety Show

Last night the Ocracoke school gymnasium was packed for the revival of the old-time island Variety Show. It has been a number of years since the community has put on such a show. This time all proceeds went to funding the restoration of the Methodist Church Recreation Hall (one of the original WWII Navy buildings).

There was music, lots of music...folk, rock, and classical. There were guitars, violins, flutes, keyboard, and even a blues harmonica. Ocracokers performed several island favorites (Sweet Violets, The Map Song, & The Lighthouse), the newly formed "Gospel Choir" had the rafters ringing with their rousing number, I Go to the Rock, the youth band rocked, and Lulu Perez entertained with a remarkable dramatic recitation in Spanish. And there was more. There was even a slide show (of vintage island scenes) during intermission, and women of the church sold baked goods. It was a typical small town affair...with truly outstanding performances.

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter is Lou Ann's story of participating in the 2008 Christmas Bird Count on Portsmouth Island. You can read it here.

To read about Philip's new book, Digging up Uncle Evans, History, Ghost Tales, & Stories from Ocracoke Island, please click here.

Saturday, February 28, 2009

February Newsletter

Back in December Lou Ann and I joined Peter Vankevitch and a couple of dozen other serious birders for a boat trip to Portsmouth Island. The occasion was the annual Christmas Bird Count. As many of our readers know, winter is the best time to visit Portsmouth island, if only because the mosquitoes are gone. Besides that, it was pleasantly warm with bright blue skies.

Lou Ann tells the story so well. You can read about it in our February, 2009 Ocracoke Newsletter.

Enjoy!

Friday, February 27, 2009

Nature

Did you see Venus and the new moon these last several evenings? They are spectacular...and will be so for another few days, while the moon is just a sliver. Look up in the early night sky above the horizon where the sun sets.

If you are on the island be sure to take a stroll on the beach. Yesterday afternoon there were dozens of dolphins frolicking just beyond the breakers, big, dark-skinned adults, and smaller, grayer juveniles. Farther out were cormorants...thousands of cormorants, first in a seemingly endless dark line moving north, then settled on the ocean as one great dark mass of undulating life.

We looked for the seal but didn't see it. We heard that the day before someone (I've forgotten who now) spotted a seal resting up on the beach. It's been a number of years since I've seen a seal on Ocracoke, but they do stop by here every once in a while.

Yesterday was a great day to spend an hour on the beach. Lachlan stripped down to his underwear and ran around barefooted. He even waded into the water...but didn't stay long.

Whether you're on the island or not, take time to enjoy the night sky, the outdoors, and your friends and family. Life is short.

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter provides more information about the majestic live oaks on Ocracoke Island. You can read it here.

To read about Philip's new book, Digging up Uncle Evans, History, Ghost Tales, & Stories from Ocracoke Island, please click here.

Thursday, February 26, 2009

Spring?

I guess spring is "just around the corner" as they say. I took this photo yesterday (lying on the ground because I hurt my knee and can't squat -- that's why it's catty-wampus [if you've never heard that term it's probably because you don't live on Ocracoke]).

The tulips are just starting to push through the ground, so it will be a few days before they are gracing my yard. But we are looking forward to temperatures in the high 50s starting today and lasting through the weekend. The only real down side to this time of year is the cedar pollen. I'm not much bothered by it, but there's lots of sneezing in the village right now.



Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter provides more information about the majestic live oaks on Ocracoke Island. You can read it here.

To read about Philip's new book, Digging up Uncle Evans, History, Ghost Tales, & Stories from Ocracoke Island, please click here.

Tuesday, February 24, 2009

More Graveyards

The other day, while wandering around old graveyards, Amy and I were reminded of several unusual old Ocracoke names: Bersheba, Napoleon, Sabra, Letha, & Lydie, e.g. We found Arcade Williams' grave. She is the old lady (born 1844) who told Walter Howard, when he was a young boy, the colorful stories of the wrecks of the Home (1837) and the Black Squall (1861).

And we found Rob Hanks' grave. In the 1950s he would "tell you the story of Ocracoke" for a dime. When I pointed the grave out to Amy, she said, "Why do you call him Rob Hanks? His marker says his name is Robert Dozier Tolson." Well, they called him Rob because his first name was Robert, and then they added Hanks because his father's name was Benjamin Henry (Hank) Tolson, I guess to distinguish him from any other Rob. I wondered if this was a common practice in other communities, or if it was peculiar to Ocracoke and the Outer Banks. If any of our readers know of this custom elsewhere please let us know.

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter provides more information about the majestic live oaks on Ocracoke Island. You can read it here.

To read about Philip's new book, Digging up Uncle Evans, History, Ghost Tales, & Stories from Ocracoke Island, please click here.

Monday, February 23, 2009

Graveyards

A couple of days ago Amy and I decided to take our afternoon walk around the village. We made a point of visiting a number of older cemeteries located down small footpaths and behind people's houses. We saw the graves of Abner Bennett Howard (early island businessman, and postmaster) and his brother, Enoch Ellis Howard (keeper of the Ocracoke lighthouse from 1862 until his death in 1897). Enoch Ellis' son William Ellis (Mr. Billy) Howard is buried nearby along with his wife Fanny Wahab Howard (she's the woman who kept her casket in her parlor for seven years). They had eight children. Four of them died between 1885 and 1899; the youngest 3 days old, the oldest 2 1/2 years old. The epitaphs speak to their parents' heartbreak:

Cordelia (12/2/1883-7/31/1885)

A bud from Heaven to earth was sent.
We thought twas given, twas only lent.
That these dear cold death has risen,
That bud on earth now blooms in heaven.


Irene (1/7/1889-9/26/1889)

Lone is the house and sad the hour,
Since thy sweet smile is gone.
But unto brighter home than ours,
In heaven is now thine own.

William Jasper (9/26/1895-9/30/1895)

This little rose so young, so fair,
Called hence by yearly doom,
Just came to show how sweet a flower
In Paradise could bloom.

Inez (10/24/1898-9/10/1899)

Ere sin could blight or sorrow fade,
Death timely came with Holy care.
The opening bud to heaven conveyed,
And bade it bloom forever there.

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter provides more information about the majestic live oaks on Ocracoke Island. You can read it here.

To read about Philip's new book, Digging up Uncle Evans, History, Ghost Tales, & Stories from Ocracoke Island, please click here.

Sunday, February 22, 2009

Dancing

I don't usually do this (and I don't plan on making a habit of this), but today I am providing a link to a site that has nothing to do with Ocracoke. Well, in a really round about way it might. Traditionally Ocracokers have loved to dance (especially the old time island square dance), and Ocracoke is a place to enjoy life. And, there's one more connection. I learned of the following link on a blog called "Joie de Vivre" which is written by a lover of Ocracoke.

This is just a feel-good short video. Enjoy!

And, next time you're out on the beach, maybe you'll want to do a little dance just to express your joy about life.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zlfKdbWwruY

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter provides more information about the majestic live oaks on Ocracoke Island. You can read it here.

To read about Philip's new book, Digging up Uncle Evans, History, Ghost Tales, & Stories from Ocracoke Island, please click here.

Friday, February 20, 2009

George W. Truitt, Jr./ Ocracoke Fish House

On February 20, 1928 the four-masted schooner, George W. Truitt, Jr, carrying over 600,000 feet of lumber, en route from South Carolina to New York City, encountered a 40 mph gale off Cape Hatteras and ran aground at Ocracoke. The captain and all seven crew members were rescued by breeches buoy, "saved by the heroic efforts of the coast guardsmen from Ocracoke, Hatteras Inlet and Creed's Hill stations" as Captain H.D. Goodwin of the Fort Macon Station expressed it.

Today the sky is clear and the wind only about 10 mph, with temperatures expected in the low to mid 40s by midday. Coastal schooners are a thing of the past, and shipwrecks thankfully infrequent. But water and weather continue to shape life on Ocracoke and the Outer Banks. As I write major renovations are being done on Ocracoke's fish house, thanks to the efforts of many local individuals and a major grant from the Golden Leaf Foundation. You can read more on the UNCTW web site: http://www.unctv.org/ncnow/ncrising/ocracoke.html

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter provides more information about the majestic live oaks on Ocracoke Island. You can read it here.

To read about Philip's new book, Digging up Uncle Evans, History, Ghost Tales, & Stories from Ocracoke Island, please click here.

Thursday, February 19, 2009

Stormy Weather

Ocracoke didn't get devastating tornadoes, high winds, or damaging lightning strikes yesterday evening and night (like in Georgia), but we heard the thunder roaring through and the rain pelting the roof. This morning there are puddles in the roads, but temperatures have moderated (it's nearly 60 degrees as I write), and patches of blue sky are poking through the clouds (bright sunlight is streaming through my window at this moment). It looks like it will be a great day to be outdoors.

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter provides more information about the majestic live oaks on Ocracoke Island. You can read it here.

To read about Philip's new book, Digging up Uncle Evans, History, Ghost Tales, & Stories from Ocracoke Island, please click here.

Wednesday, February 18, 2009

A Quiet Ocean

I haven't been to the beach today. It's cold, rainy, and dark outside. But I went yesterday and the day before. Every time I go to the beach it's different. Sometimes the waves are huge, worked up by strong winds, and crashing against the sand. Sometimes plumes of spray blow off the tops of breakers and catch the sunlight, forming momentary patches of colorful rainbows.

The last two days have been different. The ocean looked more like Pamlico Sound. Tiny waves gently slapped against the sand, and only one row of miniature breakers ran parallel with the shore line. Beyond, the ocean undulated slowly. There were no signs of turmoil off shore. And no signs of dolphins. I have no idea where they all went.

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter provides more information about the majestic live oaks on Ocracoke Island. You can read it here.

To read about Philip's new book, Digging up Uncle Evans, History, Ghost Tales, & Stories from Ocracoke Island, please click here.

Tuesday, February 17, 2009

On This Date...

...in 1841 the schooner Lambert Tree wrecked at Ocracoke. In 1885, after the US Life Saving Station was established on the island, the schooner A.F. Crockett "run on beach" and "sunk," according to the official report. The master of the vessel, R.H. Thorndike, wrote the following letter of thanks:

"Gentlemen: It is quite impossible for me to express in words thanks which are due to each one of you for your noble self-sacrificing efforts to rescue myself and crew of schooner A.F. Crockett, so lately stranded at Ocracoke, on the Hatteras coast, and for your kind protection subsequent thereto. The close attention to duty, the bravery and kindness of Captain Howard and his men, are deserving of great credit."

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter provides more information about the majestic live oaks on Ocracoke Island. You can read it here.

To read about Philip's new book, Digging up Uncle Evans, History, Ghost Tales, & Stories from Ocracoke Island, please click here.

Monday, February 16, 2009

Presidents Day

A few visitors were enjoying the island this weekend. Amy and I noticed quite a few out of state cars on Saturday as we walked through the village. In the winter it's unusual to see vehicles without priority stickers on their windshields (they are the small square decals that allow residents priority loading on the Hatteras Inlet ferries). Then we remembered that this was a long weekend.

Most of the visitors will be gone by mid-afternoon today, leaving us to enjoy a few more weeks of isolation and quiet before the beginning of a new season in the spring.

Happy Presidents Day to all of our faithful readers!

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter provides more information about the majestic live oaks on Ocracoke Island. You can read it here.

To read about Philip's new book, Digging up Uncle Evans, History, Ghost Tales, & Stories from Ocracoke Island, please click here.

Sunday, February 15, 2009

A Quiet Day

Summer visitors to Ocracoke often ask what we "do all winter." Those of us who live here laugh and joke about this question as we try to juggle wintertime demands on our time. Although activities in the off-season can be highly rewarding (music get-togethers, parties, pot luck dinners, time with family & friends, card games, and the like) they sometimes conflict, and can take time and energy. There are other demands on time as well -- community meetings, water-related activities like scalloping & oystering, home repair, business chores, etc.

For several weeks I've been engaged on and off with chimney demolition and the resulting carpentry project at Village Craftsmen, interspersed with tax preparations, catching up on correspondence, writing, etc. I didn't realize how worn out I was...until I fell asleep right after dinner last night, and didn't wake up until this morning. So I decided to take it easy today. Other than a bike ride to the post office and the store I've spent most of the day reading and working a couple of crossword puzzles. It has been a welcome change.

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter provides more information about the majestic live oaks on Ocracoke Island. You can read it here.

To read about Philip's new book, Digging up Uncle Evans, History, Ghost Tales, & Stories from Ocracoke Island, please click here.

Saturday, February 14, 2009

Happy Valentie's Day

We here at Village Craftsmen wish all of our readers a Happy Valentine's Day!

I sent my four grandchildren homemade valentine cards (just a red heart cut out of poster board, with a simple valentine's wish -- I made my own because by the time I looked for cards locally there wasn't much of a selection). I haven't spoken with the three children from the mountains yet, but Lachlan got his a couple of days ago. He was delighted. He came running up to me waving the card and telling me "You're my Valentine!" Sometimes I forget how important it is for children to receive real mail. Email is OK, but a genuine card or letter in an envelope, with a real stamp and your very own name written on it, that you pull out of your mailbox...that's a treat for a young-un! (Psst: Grownups like real letters, too.)

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter provides more information about the majestic live oaks on Ocracoke Island. You can read it here.

To read about Philip's new book, Digging up Uncle Evans, History, Ghost Tales, & Stories from Ocracoke Island, please click here.

Friday, February 13, 2009

Pickin' & Grinnin'

I received an email from banjo-playin' Leonard yesterday afternoon. Friday night music at the Community Store is back. James and Susan (the store owners) had requested a short respite from the jam sessions because they just welcomed a new addition to their family three weeks ago, and they didn't want to stay at the store so late.

But starting again this Friday night, at 6 pm now ("so we can clear out of there at a decent hour to let the baby get some sleep"), we'll be gathering around the pot bellied stove for more pickin' & grinnin.' Come on out to the Community Store for a fun evening of free wintertime entertainment.

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter provides more information about the majestic live oaks on Ocracoke Island. You can read it here.

To read about Philip's new book, Digging up Uncle Evans, History, Ghost Tales, & Stories from Ocracoke Island, please click here.

Thursday, February 12, 2009

Island Humor

Native islanders love to tease; and they especially enjoy calling attention to each other's minor foibles. Last week I needed a few empty boxes so decided to stop by the ABC store (they usually have a dozen or so stacked on the porch by the hardware store). As I was pulling into the nearly empty parking lot I spotted my space right next to the water company pickup truck. David & Earl were getting into the truck and I knew I had just enough time to scoot behind them before they backed out.

When I opened my door I noticed Earl and David in convulsions of laughter. Earl rolled down his window. Between guffaws he informed me that David had just nodded toward my car and asked, "Who's that ------- idiot?" Then they both erupted in more unrestrained laughter. "Why, it's Philip Howard!" they burst out.

Those two have enjoyed teasing me for years (since the mid 1970s when I taught them in school).

After more mutual teasing and laughter, they pulled out and I ran up on the porch to discover no boxes and a closed sign on the ABC store door. As I approached my car I noticed the water company truck pulling back next to me. Earl and David were beside themselves again as they pointed out that I sure was in a mighty big hurry to get a bottle of booze at mid-morning.

I explained that I was just looking for boxes,,...and that just set them off again. "Oh sure," Earl chortled, "and I'm sure you just read the articles in Playboy!" With a grin and a smirk they motored off.

I saw Earl in the grocery store yesterday and he was still enjoying the joke. At the checkout counter I mentioned to him that one of the reasons I like Ocracoke so much is that folks don't take themselves so seriously here. "That's for sure," Earl said. "In some places one of us might have ended up with a bloody nose."

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter provides more information about the majestic live oaks on Ocracoke Island. You can read it here.

To read about Philip's new book, Digging up Uncle Evans, History, Ghost Tales, & Stories from Ocracoke Island, please click here.

Wednesday, February 11, 2009

Dagwood & Herb

The spirit of community lives on at Ocracoke. Much like the comics characters, Dagwood and Herb Woodley, who frequently borrow each other's tools, we often do the same here on the island. About 25 years ago my neighbor, Al, had just gotten a brand new leather tool belt, but he didn't have a project at the time. I did, however, so Al loaned me the belt. I've had it ever since! He told me he'd let me know when he needed it back, but he seemed to do just fine without it, so I've kept it.

A few days ago, as I was putting on the tool belt to begin a minor carpentry project, I noticed that the stitching on one of the nail pockets was coming undone. I felt bad about it, so I called Al up. "Al," I said, "I thought you should know. You're tool belt is coming apart. It's time for you to buy a new one."

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter provides more information about the majestic live oaks on Ocracoke Island. You can read it here.

To read about Philip's new book, Digging up Uncle Evans, History, Ghost Tales, & Stories from Ocracoke Island, please click here.

Tuesday, February 10, 2009

64 degrees

It's not even 9 o'clock yet, and already the temperature is in the mid 60s. And it's bright and sunny. It's too bad I've got a small indoor construction job to do today. But at least it's warm and pleasant, so when I have boards to cut I can take them outside without having to bundle up against a cold wind. And there's always a walk on the beach at the end of the day!

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter provides more information about the majestic live oaks on Ocracoke Island. You can read it here.

To read about Philip's new book, Digging up Uncle Evans, History, Ghost Tales, & Stories from Ocracoke Island, please click here.

Monday, February 09, 2009

Dolphins & Scallops

Dolphins have been plentiful close offshore. On Friday there were dozens of them feeding & cavorting just beyond the nearest breakers. We followed them (or maybe they followed us; it was hard to tell since there were so many of them) as Amy and I enjoyed an afternoon walk. On Saturday I saw fewer, and they were farther away, but they were out there.

Yesterday I went scalloping again. We found another location (no need for a kayak this time), and they were thick. In one small depression I raked up dozens -- as many as 8 or 10 in every pass of the clam rake. We had no problem collecting our limit (a half bushel per person). I shucked them back home, sitting in the afternoon sunshine. Family and friends stopped by. By pooling resources and cooking, ten of us sat down at my table about 6:30 and feasted on freshly harvested scallops wrapped in bacon, salad, steamed broccoli, rice, southern style biscuits, & fresh fish.

As my Hungarian grandfather always said, "We eat good in America!"

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter provides more information about the majestic live oaks on Ocracoke Island. You can read it here.

To read about Philip's new book, Digging up Uncle Evans, History, Ghost Tales, & Stories from Ocracoke Island, please click here.

Saturday, February 07, 2009

Reminder

Back on Thursday, January 29, I posted information about our latest monthly Newsletter. Later that day I published another entry. I think some readers may have missed the information about the Newsletter. To repeat, this month's Newsletter concentrates on the six largest live oaks on Ocracoke Island, and includes more information about them, where they live, and directions for finding them. I have also created three simple maps that will help you locate and identify these six trees, all of which have been registered with the Live Oak Society.

Click here to go directly to our January, 2009 Ocracoke Newsletter.

To read about Philip's new book, Digging up Uncle Evans, History, Ghost Tales, & Stories from Ocracoke Island, please click here.

Thursday, February 05, 2009

PAYT

The Hyde County Commissioners have issued the following information about trash on Ocracoke. If you own property on the island, or live here all or part of the year, this information will help y0u adjust to our new Pay As You Throw policy.

"On May 5, 2008, the Board of Hyde County Commissioners voted to implement a Pay-As-You-Throw (PAYT) system of residential and commercial solid waste collection on Ocracoke Island after a year of public input and weighing alternatives. Previously, the county’s solid waste bill was being paid by monthly fees for residents and businesses that were standardized and did not reflect the amount of trash disposal by each household and business. In the place of a monthly fee that was previously attached to the property tax bills, residents will instead buy the appropriate bags and only pay for what they use. For business owners, instead of dumpster tipping fees or unfair standardized fees, each business will be responsible for buying their bags and using those for the disposal of non-recyclable solid waste on Ocracoke.

"At the Ocracoke convenience site, residents and businesses are encouraged to recycle their glass, plastic, newspapers, “white paper”, cardboard, and aluminum in the appropriate bins on site for FREE. By not having these heavier items in your everyday trash, the approved PAYT bags will only contain non-recyclable items. When you reduce your waste, you reduce your costs.

"Complimentary PAYT bags were given out at the first of the year to initiate this method of solid waste collection. The new, approved PAYT bags are $3.00 per bag. Another option for businesses and for larger households is a sticker that is available to stick on your own larger bags for $5. The new PAYT bags and stickers are currently available at the Ocracoke Convenience Site during regular hours.

"January was a month of transition and we'll be doing our best to answer questions as we continue forward. The big thing to remember is that PAYT will only work if the community WANTS it to work.

"By Monday, February 16, all Ocracoke residents and businesses should be using PAYT bags and stickers for their waste disposal.

"Please note that this new collection system will still use the existing curbside and dumpster pickup or you can dispose of your trash bags at the Ocracoke Convenience Site during regular hours. The plan to include all roads not previously covered by curbside pickup is still underway.

"Please be informed about the recycling program at the Ocracoke Convenience Site. The capacity for recycling has doubled at the convenience site to meet the expected demands of this system, but it is to your advantage to recycle everything that you can.

"What is PAY AS YOU THROW?

"It is a system that charges everyone for trash services based on the amount of waste they throw away. The system is fair to everyone, and it puts you in control of how much you spend on trash. Participating in Ocracoke’s new program will be easy: either place your trash in the approved $3 bag or your own larger bag with the $5 sticker. Then, just place these bags for curbside collection or take to the dump as you always have. Only trash in the approved bags or bags with approved stickers will be accepted. There are no other hidden charges, and no charges on your tax bill.

"Acceptable Recycling Items at the Ocracoke Convenience Site:

"Steel (tin) cans: Rinse, remove lid and place it in the can; labels may stay on. No aerosol or paint cans.
Aluminum cans: Rinse and crush if desired. No foil or foil pans, please.
Glass: Clear and brown food and beverage containers. Rinse and remove lids. No light bulbs, ceramics, windows, ovenware, candleholders, or cups, etc.
Newspapers and inserts: Place in bin and keep dry. Do not tie. We do accept magazines, phonebooks, or other papers. No shredded paper.
Plastics: # 1 and # 2 plastic bottles and jugs including soda, juice, milk, water, detergent, shampoo, etc. Check the number on the bottom, and must have a neck narrower than the base. Rinse, remove lid, and flatten. No wide mouth jars, tubs, buckets, bags, cups, plates, Styrofoam, or pesticide or motor oil bottles.
Cardboard: Please flatten and place in separate “cardboard only” bin at site.

"The Ocracoke Convenience Site winter hours are currently Monday – Friday, 8 am – 5 pm.
If you have questions or want more information, please call James Blount, Hyde County Solid Waste Superintendant, at 252-926- 4196 ext.4463."

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter provides more information about the majestic live oaks on Ocracoke Island. You can read it here.

To read about Philip's new book, Digging up Uncle Evans, History, Ghost Tales, & Stories from Ocracoke Island, please click here.

Wednesday, February 04, 2009

An Interesting Tidbit

Yesterday I was organizing a stack of papers when I came across a 1956 publication, "Geographical History of the Carolina Banks," by the Coastal Studies Institute of the Louisiana State University. I glanced through the 250 page document, looking at the sections I had underlined years ago. I was intrigued by these paragraphs:

"Portsmouth Township is the only district to show a decline since 1870.... Portsmouth's fall has been rather steady since the Civil War....In 1955 Portsmouth's permanent population was eighteen. It should be expected to rise in future years because all the lots and empty houses have been bought up in anticipation of increased tourist business....

"Ocracoke's population has not changed greatly since 1900.... Ocracoke's population will rise with the paving of the road to Hatteras Inlet, the provision of free ferry service across Hatteras Inlet, and the subsequent invasion of the island by greater numbers of tourists."

The authors were correct about Ocracoke, but not about Portsmouth. Interesting.

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter provides more information about the majestic live oaks on Ocracoke Island. You can read it here.

To read about Philip's new book, Digging up Uncle Evans, History, Ghost Tales, & Stories from Ocracoke Island, please click here.

Tuesday, February 03, 2009

Scalloping Photos

As promised, here are several photos Amy took Sunday afternoon. She didn't take any out on the shoals because she didn't want to get her camera wet.

Philip & Dave Frum getting ready to take the kayak off the pickup truck:



(Click on photo to see larger image.)

Launching the kayak to get across the slough to shallow water:



(Click on photo to see larger image.)

David & Lachlan hauling our treasure down the lane:



(Click on photo to see larger image.)

A half bushel of bay scallops, fresh from the Sound:



(Click on photo to see larger image.)

Amy & Philip shucking scallops:



(Click on photo to see larger image.)

Extricating the tasty morsel:



(Click on photo to see larger image.)

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter provides more information about the majestic live oaks on Ocracoke Island. You can read it here.

To read about Philip's new book, Digging up Uncle Evans, History, Ghost Tales, & Stories from Ocracoke Island, please click here.

Monday, February 02, 2009

Scalloping

Scalloping season opened on Monday (recreational scalloping is reserved for Saturdays and Sundays, 7:30 am - 4:00 pm). Yesterday afternoon several friends and I headed to the Sound with rakes, dip nets, waders, plastic buckets, and kayaks. We left the village at 1:30, and were wading in calf-deep water by 2:00.

I walked quite a way but didn't see a single scallop. The shallow waters and tidal flats had been picked clean by seagulls (broken shells littered Highway 12). Even in deeper water I was having no luck. The wind was rippling the surface, making it difficult to see the bottom. Then I came to a large bed of eel grass some distance from the shore. The scallops were thick! My dip net broke so I just reached down and picked them up. Three or four scallops would be lying clustered near one another, and as I was picking them up I could feel more under my feet. In short order (and without venturing very far) I had my half bushel limit.

Fortunately the temperature was in the mid 50s (don't know what the water temperature was, but my hands sure got cold fast). By 4:30 we were back in the village. A half hour later (after unloading all of the gear) we tackled the scallops. It took an hour and a half to shuck two 5-gallon buckets full. By then Amy and I could hardly feel our fingers, they were so cold. While we were finishing up, and then taking our much anticipated showers, David cooked soup and sauteed the scallops in olive oil and garlic.

It is supremely satisfying to savor fresh seafood, gathered just a few hours beforehand, with family and friends.

In 2002 I published a monthly Newsletter describing a comical scalloping adventure. If you'd enjoy more details about this coastal experience click here: http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/news030302.htm.

Amy shot some pictures yesterday afternoon. I'll post a few in the next couple of days.

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter provides more information about the majestic live oaks on Ocracoke Island. You can read it here.

To read about Philip's new book, Digging up Uncle Evans, History, Ghost Tales, & Stories from Ocracoke Island, please click here.

Saturday, January 31, 2009

Fowler Photo Gallery

I dug through boxes and envelopes full of photographs yesterday and found three pictures with Fowler in them. I know I have others, but can't locate them. I hope you enjoy these.

This is my dad, Lawton, on fiddle, and Fowler on guitar. They are jammin' in Don Wood's "living room" (you probably can't see it, but there's a drill press behind my dad, and other tools scattered amongst the furniture):



Here are Fowler (on the left) and my dad enjoying a watermelon out on Jack Willis' dock:



(click on photo to view larger image.)

This final photo is one of my favorites. From left to right are David, me, Fowler, and Rob. Lachlan is in the front, standing on our crock of homemade Ocracoke meal wine.



Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter provides more information about the majestic live oaks on Ocracoke Island. You can read it here.

To read about Philip's new book, Digging up Uncle Evans, History, Ghost Tales, & Stories from Ocracoke Island, please click here.

Friday, January 30, 2009

Fowler

Ocracoke Island has lost another venerable native. Fowler O'Neal died at home on Tuesday. He was 87 years old.

Fowler was the quintessential islander, having worked on the water most of his adult life. He was a ferry captain when he retired. He sported numerous tattoos (no Celtic patterns or new age symbols for him), and his speech was peppered with colorful words and phrases. Fowler was a tinkerer. He owned several boats and could repair an outboard engine, lawnmower, or automobile transmission. He built his modest home on Fig Tree Lane when he married Chloe, and I'm sure he did all of the plumbing and electric work himself. I know he helped me when I was building Village Craftsmen in the early 1970s. In fact, I thought of him often as I was tearing down the chimney he and my father helped construct.

Fowler was a man who knew who he was. And he was totally without pretension. Although he was friends with politicians and off-island people with money and power, Fowler never pretended to be anyone other than himself. He was most comfortable in bare feet with his khaki trousers rolled up to his ankles, walking his dog, sitting on his outdoor swing with Chloe, or driving his rusted pickup truck through the village. Fowler had a fluid sense of time, and would stop to talk without a thought or worry about anything else. He read frequently and was incredibly smart, a man who knew more from experience than most of us will ever know from books. Above all, Fowler liked to laugh. He often got tickled telling me stories of his younger days on Ocracoke and Portsmouth Island. He especially enjoyed recounting antics and adventures he shared with my dad. Although Fowler hadn't taken a drink for decades, he loved to supervise our occasional brewing of traditional Ocracoke meal wine.

Fowler chose to spend his last days at home with his family. I'm sure he coudn't countenance the thought of being in an antiseptic hospital room surrounded by strangers.

Fowler O'Neal was an ambassador for old-time Ocracoke, a friend to all, and a model of self-assurance. He will be missed. Farewell neighbor!

A memorial service will be held on Monday, February 02, at 1 pm in the Methodist Church.

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter provides more information about the majestic live oaks on Ocracoke Island. You can read it here.

To read about Philip's new book, Digging up Uncle Evans, History, Ghost Tales, & Stories from Ocracoke Island, please click here.

Thursday, January 29, 2009

Guidelines for Comments

Hello to all of our faithful readers. Since I began this journal, in 2004, I have not thought it necessary to impose any rules for posting comments. However, a number of readers have found some recent comments unhelpful and antagonistic. I prefer to think of them as unnecessarily challenging.

As most of you know, I am happy to answer thoughtful, well articulated questions. So these are my new guidelines:
  • Comments & questions should address published posts or other topics of interest regarding Ocracoke Island or the Outer Banks.
  • Comments should be limited to one or two issues and be phrased in polite, civil language.
  • Comments should be written in complete, easy to understand English sentences.
  • I reserve the right to delete any comments that I find unhelpful, unnecessarily challenging, or objectionable in any way. This is a personal journal. There are ample opportunities, for people who are interested, to publish blogs with their own thoughts and comments.
Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter provides more information about the majestic live oaks on Ocracoke Island. You can read it here.

To read about Philip's new book, Digging up Uncle Evans, History, Ghost Tales, & Stories from Ocracoke Island, please click here.

Live Oaks, Part II

Last month's Ocracoke Newsletter was about the many remarkable live oaks on the island. Several folks asked about the largest trees, and how to locate them. This month's Newsletter concentrates on the six largest Ocracoke oaks, and includes more information about them, where they live, and directions for finding them. I have also created three simple maps that will help you locate and identify these six trees, all of which have been registered with the Live Oak Society.

Click here to go directly to our January, 2009 Ocracoke Newsletter.

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter celebrates the majestic live oaks on Ocracoke Island. You can read it here.

To read about Philip's new book, Digging up Uncle Evans, History, Ghost Tales, & Stories from Ocracoke Island, please click here.

Wednesday, January 28, 2009

Sixty

That's right. It's sixty degrees here today. And the sun is shining, drying out the village after several days of light rain, mist, and fog. It's the perfect day to get a few outdoor chores finished. I've already carried a truck load of branches to the public chipper. Next, I'll load up the smaller chips and fragments from the chimney into 5 gallon buckets and spread them in the low places in the road. By late afternoon I'll be ready for a walk on the beach.

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter celebrates the majestic live oaks on Ocracoke Island. You can read it here.

To read about Philip's new book, Digging up Uncle Evans, History, Ghost Tales, & Stories from Ocracoke Island, please click here.

Tuesday, January 27, 2009

Chimney Man

For the past several days I have been tearing down a chimney. We haven't used it for many years, and it is in the middle of the display space at Village Craftsmen. In fact, the top had already been knocked off the last time we re-roofed the building. So I started the attack on Saturday. After about twenty minutes of beating on it with a sledge hammer I was about to give up (it was solid concrete block, with a little bit of decorative brick work), since I couldn't see any progress at all.

Finally I noticed a small crack. After it widened a bit I began driving a heavy chisel into the crack, then a crowbar. It was tough work, but finally I was rewarded with just a large pile of rubble.

I wondered why I hadn't hired someone to tear down the chimney. Then I remembered a conversation that my brother and I had recently. Neither one of us remembers our parents ever hiring anyone for anything. My mother took care of the house and the cooking (she was a typical stay-at-home mom of the 1950s). My father was a welder. After work he tackled whatever jobs needed to be done. He cut our hair (even gave my mother permanent waves, and I never went to a barber until college), painted the house, tuned the car, added a new kitchen to the house, repaired the furnace and appliances, even killed chickens for supper. My brother and I cut the grass and helped do other household chores.

So I guess that's why I didn't hire someone to do a job I was capable of doing myself. But maybe I should have; it was a lot of work for a senior citizen!

Here's a photo of Chimney Man wielding his sledge hammer:



And one of Chimney Man taking a much needed break:



Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter celebrates the majestic live oaks on Ocracoke Island. You can read it here.

To read about Philip's new book, Digging up Uncle Evans, History, Ghost Tales, & Stories from Ocracoke Island, please click here.

Monday, January 26, 2009

Ferry Schedules

The NC Department of Transportation has issued an announcement that will be of interest to many of our readers. The ferry division is making changes to its Ocracoke and Swan Quarter schedules in order to meet U.S. Coast Guard requirements of no more than a 12-hour work shift per day, per crew member, per vessel. Following are the changes which are in effect from January 21, 2009 until May 18, 2009. when the heaviest tourist traffic begins:

Departures from Cedar Island & Ocracoke: 7:30 am, 10:30 am, 2 pm, & 5 pm.

Departures from Swan Quarter: 10 am & 5 pm.

Departures from Ocracoke: 7 am & 1 pm.

There are no changes to the Hatteras Inlet schedules.

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter celebrates the majestic live oaks on Ocracoke Island. You can read it here.

To read about Philip's new book, Digging up Uncle Evans, History, Ghost Tales, & Stories from Ocracoke Island, please click here.

Saturday, January 24, 2009

Ping Pong

There's a new wintertime activity available for islanders and visitors to Ocracoke. Every Thursday evening at 7 o'clock the Community Center will be open for ping pong. Tom Pahl discovered a ping pong table stored away next to the stage and brought it out. It is in nearly new condition, with a new net. There was even a box of paddles and balls. So if you're a veteran ping pong player, or just want to learn, come on out for an evening of fun and exercise.

I hadn't played in probably 40 years, but I did win a couple of games last night (OK I also lost big time once; got to perfect my spin!). It was great fun.

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter celebrates the majestic live oaks on Ocracoke Island. You can read it here.

To read about Philip's new book, Digging up Uncle Evans, History, Ghost Tales, & Stories from Ocracoke Island, please click here.

Friday, January 23, 2009

Pineapple Chess Pie

A reader recently requested the recipe for Jude Brown's southern chess pie. She was happy to share it. Jude even provided some history. Why is it called chess pie? No one seems to know, but there are three suggestions:
  • It is a corruption of chest, which is where the sugar was stored (a pie chest)
  • It is a corruption of just ("it's jest a simple pie.")
  • The pie was brought over to the US by folks from Chester, England
Here is the recipe:

1 stick of butter, softened
3 eggs
1/2 tsp nutmeg
1 tsp vinegar
1 1/2 c sugar
1 tsp vanilla
1 TBS corn meal
1 c pineapple (canned and drained)

Beat the eggs, then blend everything together and pour into an unbaked 8" pie shell. Bake at 350-400 degrees for approx 1 hour (Jude generally bakes hers at 375 degrees for 50 minutes.)

Jude says the vinegar is added to cut the sweetness. And she points out that traditionally this was a pie baked by simple southern folk who used other ingredients as they were available (lemon juice, chocolate, peaches, pears, etc.).

Enjoy! It's delicious.

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter celebrates the majestic live oaks on Ocracoke Island. You can read it here.

To read about Philip's new book, Digging up Uncle Evans, History, Ghost Tales, & Stories from Ocracoke Island, please click here.

Thursday, January 22, 2009

Steel Trawler

Thirty years ago it was commonplace, especially in the colder months, to see a dozen or more trawlers, both wooden and steel, docked in Silver Lake Harbor. Nowadays it is much less common. Some time ago, however, I had an opportunity to speak with a member of the crew of a large steel trawler. They had just arrived with a boatload of green tail shrimp, and they were offering them for sale at $3.00/pound. I climbed on board to see some of the prettiest, large shrimp I had ever seen. I pulled out my money, and he weighed out the shrimp. Into a plastic bag they went.

Back home I popped the heads off (my hands were aching from the cold by the time I was finished), and packed them in heavy plastic bags. Most went into the freezer, but I left a small bag out for the next day. If you've never tasted shrimp fresh from Pamlico Sound (if all you've ever known is pre-packaged shrimp from Thailand), and you finally have an opportunity to feast on the real thing you'll never want to eat imported shrimp again. I guarantee it!

PS: I understand that there will be no picking and jamming and the Community Store this Friday night, but that it will continue again "soon." Look for notices in the store.

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter celebrates the majestic live oaks on Ocracoke Island. You can read it here.

To read about Philip's new book, Digging up Uncle Evans, History, Ghost Tales, & Stories from Ocracoke Island, please click here.

Wednesday, January 21, 2009

January Snow

Ocracoke didn't get a lot of snow yesterday, but it sure was fun to see it coming down. I'm guessing we got about a half inch. I took the first two pictures yesterday afternoon as it was snowing. This morning Howard Street and the trees didn't have much snow on them, so I took the other two photos to show you a little of what it looked like at about 9 am.

Be sure to click on the photos to see full size images.









Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter celebrates the majestic live oaks on Ocracoke Island. You can read it here.

To read about Philip's new book, Digging up Uncle Evans, History, Ghost Tales, & Stories from Ocracoke Island, please click here.

Tuesday, January 20, 2009

Inauguration

I watched today's historic inauguration with David and Lachlan (Amy is off-island). I was reminded of how emotionally moving it is to live in such an extraordinary country. In spite of all of our differences and a sometimes inglorious past, the foundations of our society and our government are remarkably sound. Our constitution, which President Obama and Vice President Biden pledged to preserve, protect, and defend, is the bedrock of our democracy. No US president is ever asked to give allegiance to any other document, ideology, or entity.

The peaceful and civil transfer of power that we witness at every inauguration is truly to be celebrated. Every glimpse of our flag flying in the breeze, and every strain of one of our patriotic songs brought tears to my eyes. I am proud to be an American!

On a very local note -- another remarkable event is unfolding outside my window. The trees, fences, and tombstones are wearing a soft mantle of snow, and it is still coming down, swirling off the roofs and branches. I must go outside to witness this rare event before daylight is gone! As you might imagine, Howard Street is beautiful beyond description during a snow storm.

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter celebrates the majestic live oaks on Ocracoke Island. You can read it here.

To read about Philip's new book, Digging up Uncle Evans, History, Ghost Tales, & Stories from Ocracoke Island, please click here.

Monday, January 19, 2009

Dinner

Have you ever been invited out to dinner, and when you sat down the table was covered with newspapers, there were no dishes, and you were expected to eat with your hands? If you live on the coast maybe you've had this wonderful experience.

I arrived right at 6 o'clock. Another couple were right behind me. After wine and/or dark beer, and hors d'oeuvres (crackers, goat cheese, & chutney) we spread an old vinyl tablecloth on the table and covered it with newspapers. Next came cookie trays piled with steaming oysters fresh out of the oven. They were barely cracked open, just the way I like them. Saltines were laid out on the table, along with bowls of homemade cocktail sauce (with a touch of horseradish). Oh yes, I brought a plate of deviled eggs. We dug in with our knives, plucked the succulent oysters from their shells, dipped them in sauce, spread them on crackers, and savored the taste of those fresh Pamlico Sound oysters. Juice soaked into the newspapers and the shells were tossed into plastic buckets on the floor.

The other guests had brought a southern pineapple chess pie, which we enjoyed along with freshly made oatmeal cookies and coffee after we had had our fill of oysters. I was ready to slide under the table, but we sat there for another hour and a half chatting, telling stories, and laughing.

Ah....coastal living at its best!

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter celebrates the majestic live oaks on Ocracoke Island. You can read it here.

To read about Philip's new book, Digging up Uncle Evans, History, Ghost Tales, & Stories from Ocracoke Island, please click here.

Sunday, January 18, 2009

Sunday Morning

It sure has warmed up this morning. I left the water dripping at Village Craftsmen last night, and when I walked over to check I noticed that the ground didn't crunch under my feet like it did yesterday. But it's not as sunny. I think we may get a little rain today. I'm hoping to get another walk on the beach after lunch, but if not, it would be a good day to do some serious reading.

I had a table full of dinner guests last night around my large lazy Susan table, and I have two invitations for dinner tonight! Island life, even in the winter (or maybe, especially in the winter) is mighty good.

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter celebrates the majestic live oaks on Ocracoke Island. You can read it here.

To read about Philip's new book, Digging up Uncle Evans, History, Ghost Tales, & Stories from Ocracoke Island, please click here.

Saturday, January 17, 2009

Jam Session

A fire was roaring in the pot bellied stove in the Community Store last night as island musicians gathered 'round. The old wooden floor and a round antique metal Texaco sign (with lettering worn off where folks had walked over it for decades) testified to the many islanders and visitors who have crossed the store's threshold over the years. Last night folding chairs and upside-down milk crates served as seating for musicians and spectators alike.

Without much talk or introductions the tunes rang out --Tennessee Waltz, Down Yonder, Under the Double Eagle.... David was there with his fiddle. Leonard played banjo. Marcy brought her mandolin, Lou, his Dobro. April even came down to the island from Hatteras with her guitar and bass. Tom sat in the circle with his saxophone and clarinet. I had my dancing man. When tunes were familiar (You Are My Sunshine, Puff the Magic Dragon....) everyone sang. It was a great night to call Ocracoke home.

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter celebrates the majestic live oaks on Ocracoke Island. You can read it here.

To read about Philip's new book, Digging up Uncle Evans, History, Ghost Tales, & Stories from Ocracoke Island, please click here.

Friday, January 16, 2009

Weather

It seems like the weather is on almost everyone's mind this morning. Although it's not as cold on Ocracoke as it is in the mid-west (where the wind chill has created "feel like" temperatures in the 30s & 40s below zero, and in some places even lower), it felt cold to us when we woke up. Right now it's about 29 degrees, but the wind chill here is about 19 degrees. Most of our houses and other buildings are raised up on piers or pilings, which makes our water pipes exposed. I have built boxes around my pipes (with 100 watt light bulbs inside), or wrapped them with heat tapes, so I've not had any frozen pipes.

Right now it's bright and sunny with about a 15 mph breeze. I believe I'll catch up on some office work, answer a few emails, bundle up, run out to the post office, and then take a half hour stroll on the beach. I'll let you know if I find any noteworthy seashells.

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter celebrates the majestic live oaks on Ocracoke Island. You can read it here.

To read about Philip's new book, Digging up Uncle Evans, History, Ghost Tales, & Stories from Ocracoke Island, please click here.

Wednesday, January 14, 2009

Sunset

Ocracoke is famous among residents and visitors for our outstanding sunsets. Tonight I was treated to a welcoming sight.

I have been off island again for a few days (I carried Lou Ann back to her mid-western town where right now the snow is blanketing the ground and turning it into a Norman Rockwell-like scene, and where it is about 35 degrees colder than here on the island!), and then I went to the NC mountains to visit my son and his family. I arrived back home on the 5 pm ferry this evening. Driving down the island I was struck by the magnificent sunset. The horizon was a rich magenta, and above it were layered all of the colors of the spectrum -- orange, yellow, green, blue, indigo, and violet.

The sand dunes were crowned with the past season's sea oats, and they and several hundred feet of wooden sand fence stood silhouetted against the darkening sky, along with cedars and pine trees on the sound side. For twenty minutes I drove south marveling at the fiery sky and the occasional glimpse of familiar ocean waves peeking through breaks in the dunes.

I only wished Lou Ann could have been with me to be welcomed home in such a spectacular way.

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter celebrates the majestic live oaks on Ocracoke Island. You can read it here.

To read about Philip's new book, Digging up Uncle Evans, History, Ghost Tales, & Stories from Ocracoke Island, please click here.

Monday, January 12, 2009

Friday Night at the Community Store

I've been gone a few days -- drove Lou Ann back to the midwest (where the temps plunged into the teens and snow piled up a foot or more). I have to admit that real wintertime scenes out there are beautiful, both her quintessential small town with snow swirling around the monument in the town square, and the surrounding woodlands with their evergreens and naked disciduous trees competing for best snow-covered photo op.

Back home on the island the temperatures were considerably milder, but still it's winter. Leonard, our local banjo player sent me this news while I was gone:

"Philip, something new this year on the island: the Friday night jam session at the Community Store. In addition to the usual suspects -- Gary and David, Lou and Marcy -- there were April Trueblood, Wes Lassiter, Bobby Raborn, another young lady on mandolin (friend of April's), and myself. Plus about 20 people hootin' and hollerin' -- all of us crowded around the potbelly stove (with a real fire in it). We played from seven until nine. Great fun and we're gonna do it again next Friday."

There's no question! I'll be there this coming Friday, even though it is my poker night. Maybe I'll leave a little early, or maybe I'll just get to the poker table a little late. But I do wish Lou Ann were still here to enjoy Friday Night at the Community Store with me.

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter celebrates the majestic live oaks on Ocracoke Island. You can read it here.

To read about Philip's new book, Digging up Uncle Evans, History, Ghost Tales, & Stories from Ocracoke Island, please click here.

Saturday, January 10, 2009

Mad Mag

Margaret Eaton was born in the late 1800s in Rockland, Maine. Ocracoke native John Simon Howard (John Sime) was captain of a schooner that plied the waters off the eastern seaboard, and he was at anchor in the Rockland harbor when Margaret was only fifteen years old. By all accounts Margaret was beautiful, talented, and exceptionally intelligent. John Sime, who was about two decades older than Margaret, found himself immediately attracted to her.

No one alive remembers the exact circumstances of their encounter, but some stories suggest that John Sime carried Margaret back to Ocracoke against her will. Along the way they were married, and Margaret remained on Ocracoke. In her later years Margaret became increasingly peculiar. Stories survive of some of her antics. It is said that she chopped off one of her own toes with a meat cleaver. Others tell of the time she branded her forehead with a hot iron. My father remembered her standing alone and silent, in a long white dress, late at night in graveyards near her house. It has even been reported that she cooked a cat for dinner one night.

After John died, island neighbors came together to build a little house for "Mad Mag" on a small sand hill in Paddy's Holler. I've heard that the house was so close to the foot path that folks passing by often walked up on her porch as they went by. Mischievous children would sometimes bang on the side of her house which would bring her out yelling invectives. This only served to encourage her reputation for craziness.

Still today, folks walking late at night past family cemeteries along some of the sandy lanes on Ocracoke will catch a glimpse of an unusual apparition in the far corner of the graveyard. Not infrequently the image is of a woman with long gray hair, dressed in an antique white dress. "Mad Mag," you might hear the passers-by whisper, as they hurry down the lane.

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter celebrates the majestic live oaks on Ocracoke Island. You can read it here.

To read about Philip's new book, Digging up Uncle Evans, History, Ghost Tales, & Stories from Ocracoke Island, please click here.

Friday, January 09, 2009

Between the Sound and the Sea

Yesterday I posted the lyrics to one of our favorite island songs, Paddy's Holler, written by island native Walter Howard, and performed by Molasses Creek. Leonard left a comment directing readers to an Internet web site where several of Edgar Howard's tunes are posted, including Paddy's Holler. Edgar and Walter were brothers who played the vaudeville circuit in the 1920s & 1930s with celebrities such as Milton Berle, Gene Autry, and Al Jolson.

You can click here to go directly to the web site, rhapsody.com, where they have posted the entire Folkways album, Between the Sound and the Sea, released January 1, 1977. This album features sixteen tracks of traditional Outer Banks music by local artists, including a number of Ocracoke natives (Elizabeth Howard, Edgar Howard, Jule Garrish, Maurice Ballance, and my father, Lawton Howard).

Thanks to Leonard for alerting us to this on-line collection of North Carolina's coastal music! I hope you enjoy listening to Edgar playing his banjo, and singing Paddy's Holler and other tunes, and listening to the other Outer Banks musicians (some of whom are very quirky).

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter celebrates the majestic live oaks on Ocracoke Island. You can read it here.

To read about Philip's new book, Digging up Uncle Evans, History, Ghost Tales, & Stories from Ocracoke Island, please click here.

Thursday, January 08, 2009

Paddy's Holler

Molasses Creek's recent performance at Williamsburg's First Night Celebration reminded me again of Walter Howard's most well-known island song, "Paddy's Holler." Many of our readers know and love this fast-paced tune. So I decided to print the lyrics, along with a few comments in brackets, to clarify the local history.


Paddy's Holler
Written by Walter Howard

Many, many years ago I can truly tell you so
There was a spot that wasn't worth a dollar
Where the folks were gay, so the people say
Everybody called it Paddy's Holler [the Ocracoke village area, roughly parallel to, and between, the Back Road & Howard Street, from about the intersection of Fig Tree Lane and Back Road, past the back yards of houses now facing Back Road, then turning on a foot path behind the Methodist Church & Howard cemeteries and joining Howard Street and Lawton Lane, and/or continuing past the back of the Health Center to the schoolhouse] .

'Twould put us all to shame how the holler got its name
Legends have been told by the millions
But the one that I like best was no doubt told in jest
Told by ol' fiddlin' Wid Williams [Ocracoke's most celebrated old-time fiddle player]

Wid was on a spree; he had fiddled all night free
And they had to hold him up by the collar
But like a knight of old he grew mighty bold,
And hollered out "Hooray for Paddy's Holler!" [Some local sources suggest that Paddy's Holler was named after a Philadelphia tap room popular with Ocracokers who had moved up north to work in the early 20th century]

Now in the olden days nobody offered praise
For anybody livin' up the holler
As the years rolled by , moved in on the sly
Now it's "Mrs. Jones" of Paddy's Holler. [Mrs. Jones would be Mary Ruth Kelly Jones, the first wife of early island developer and eccentric millionaire, Sam Jones. She was the grand-daughter of George Gregory Howard, island sea captain who built the large house with widow's walk that backs up to Howard Street.]

Paddy's Holler, Paddy's Holler
Why, they come from near and far to Paddy's Holler
And the town was in a lurch, 'cause when they'd go to church
They'd all have to pass through Paddy's Holler [one early Methodist Church was located on Howard Street, where "Dicey's House" sits today, and the present Methodist Church, completed in 1943, is also located in the Paddy's Holler area.]

The Howards, the O'Neals, the Burruses, the Peales
Why they've all found their way to Paddy's Holler
Choicest spot in town, nobody seems to frown
When someone hollers, "Let's go up the holler!"

They built a naval base just to give the subs a chase [the WWII Navy Base was built where the NPS Visitors Center is today]
So everybody there could earn a dollar
When Uncle Sammy came he put 'em all to shame
Paved the only road through Paddy's Holler. [Ocracoke's first paved road was a one-lane concrete strip starting at the Navy Base, turning where the Anchorage Inn is today, turning again down the Back Road, through Paddy's Holler, then turning across from the fire hall, and "T-ing" at the end of the road. From the "T" the Navy added short aprons, and there they dumped spent ammunition shells, hence the local name "Ammunition Dump Road," though it is officially called "Sunset Blvd."

Paddy's Holler! Paddy's Holler
They come from near and far to Paddy's Holler
It's the choicest spot in town, nobody seems to frown
When someone hollers, "Let's go up the holler!"

Now folks down there were kind to the sick and blind
So everybody ponied up a dollar
To build a little home for Maggie all alone [Maggie is "Mad Mag Howard," wife of John Simon Howard, sea captain, who took Margaret Eaton from Rockland Maine, when she was only fifteen years old, married her, and brought her to Ocracoke. She became legendary for her quirky, odd, and very peculiar habits, hence her local name, Mad Mag.]
Livin' on a hill in Paddy's Holler.

But one was mighty bold, his heart set on gold
His mind was on the almighty dollar
Some said "listen here, don't put that line post there!
'Cause that's the choicest spot in Paddy's Holler!"

I hope you enjoyed this tidbit of local history reflected in one of our most popular songs.

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter celebrates the majestic live oaks on Ocracoke Island. You can read it here.

To read about Philip's new book, Digging up Uncle Evans, History, Ghost Tales, & Stories from Ocracoke Island, please click here.

Tuesday, January 06, 2009

Twelfth Night

I suppose I should have wished all of our readers a happy Twelfth Night yesterday, since Twelfth Night is the evening of the fifth of January. It precedes Twelfth Day (that's today, the sixth of January), the eve of the celebration of the Epiphany (the Adoration of the Magi, or Wise Men). Twelfth Night is the last day of the Christmas season, the night of January 5-6 (hence the "Twelve Days of Christmas" which are December 25 - January 5 [or in some traditions, December 26 - January 6] not the day after Thanksgiving to December 25, as popular culture would suggest). Twelfth Night has traditionally been observed as a time of merrymaking.

On Ocracoke, at least one Twelfth Night Celebration was held on Sunday evening (OK, there was a bit of fudging there) with several dozen islanders getting together for food, drink, and a bit of mild merrymaking. It's always a fun way to end the holiday season. Here is a web site with some history and a few suggestions for a Twelfth Night Celebration:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Twelfth_Night_(holiday)

I thought you might enjoy the following photo of Lou Ann and me. It was taken on Christmas Eve (not on Twelfth Night) by Ocracoke's Methodist minister, Joyce Reynolds.



Happy Twelfth Night!

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter celebrates the majestic live oaks on Ocracoke Island. You can read it here.

To read about Philip's new book, Digging up Uncle Evans, History, Ghost Tales, & Stories from Ocracoke Island, please click here.

Sunday, January 04, 2009

First Night (By Lou Ann)

There were plenty of things to do on Ocracoke for New Year’s Eve. There was the dance at the Community Center or even the tally rally for the bird counters. (I hear that is always quite a party with great chili and key lime pie!) However, we decided to follow Molasses Creek to Williamsburg Va.

I have been a Molasses Creek groupie since the first time I heard them several summers ago. In fact, within a span of three weeks, I went to six of their shows! (They were doing two a week in those days.) I just could not get enough of their music.

So, Philip and I packed the car including leftover ham sandwiches and ginger ale and headed towards Williamsburg. The weather was windy and grew progressively colder as I constantly put my hand on the window to check the temperatures. I double checked my winter clothes in the back seat…gloves, hats, scarves, loden green cape. Yes, I definitely know how to pack for cold weather.

It was still daylight with bright sunshine and a gorgeous blue sky when we arrived in Williamsburg. We quickly had dinner and made our way over to the William and MaryCollege campus where First Night was to be held. We bought our buttons and scanned the program. There were over 50 presenters, but we had only eyes for Molasses Creek. We circled their times and then worked our other events around them.

We had to wait in line for their performance and then squeeze through the crowd to find seats. We knew we were going to the front row with center seats, at least we hoped. Alas, we were rewarded with our efforts. It was great fun having Molasses Creek come onto the stage with a roaring crowd. We both looked behind us several times with pride! (We should have worn T-shirts with their name and logo, or just the statement that we personally know them and know them well!)

Their show was just wonderful! When they were finished, there was thunderous applause in the audience. They disappeared back stage to prepare for another show as they had a very busy evening.

We continued on our way to hear the gospel singers, the German polka band where we ate salted pretzels and danced the Chicken Dance. We enjoyed group after group as we studied our map and braved the cold for each new adventure. By 11:30 it was time to go out to the stadium where Molasses Creek was already playing. I can’t imagine how they could play a single note in that cold!Between songs they were jumping up and down. They ended the concert just before midnight as we all counted down to New Years and then the lights went out for the fireworks!We huddled on the bleachers and I was glad that I know how to dress warmly as it was freezing!

We all hung out in Gary and Kitty’s room afterwards as we pooled our snacks and drinks. We told them how wonderful they were and how beautiful Kitty and Marcy looked on stage. (They really did!) We told stories and laughed as we ate all the snacks.

By 3:00 a.m. we made a circle of friendship with our arms around each other, sang Auld Lang Syne and wished each other a Happy New Year. We meandered off into the darkness to our own rooms and slept away the first night of the New Year.

Lou Ann


Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter celebrates the majestic live oaks on Ocracoke Island. You can read it here.

To read about Philip's new book, Digging up Uncle Evans, History, Ghost Tales, & Stories from Ocracoke Island, please click here.

Thursday, January 01, 2009

2009

The entire staff at Village Craftsmen wish all of our readers the very best New Year, full of happiness, joy, peace, love, and prosperity. We all are looking forward to an improving economy, and in the meanwhile we are continuing to celebrate our family, friends, community, nation, and planet. We hope they all grow stronger and healthier in 2009.

A hearty thank you to everyone who has continued to support local and small town organizations and businesses throughout the country. And a special thanks to all of our faithful Village Craftsmen customers, both long-time visitors to Ocracoke, as well as recent discoverers of our beautiful island. We're looking forward to seeing you all in the coming year.

Out latest Ocracoke Newsletter celebrates the majestic live oaks on Ocracoke Island. You can read it here.

To read about Philip's new book, Digging up Uncle Evans, History, Ghost Tales, & Stories from Ocracoke Island, please click here.