Graveyards

It's springtime and the grasses, weeds, and vines (especially poison ivy) are growing prolifically. This morning I decided it was time to do some trimming and cutting in the graveyards. I don't do landscaping and I'm not much for flowers (only occasionally do I add I few wildflowers). I'm content to let much of the natural vegetation climb up the fences and drop down from overhanging tree limbs. But I cut down the tall grass and sprouting weeds and shrubs that would threaten to overtake the graves. It is a satisfying chore. Outside, in the morning air, the dappled shadows on the marble tombstones, I worked among the spirits of ancestors -- my mother and father, Grandpapa Homer & Grandmama Aliph, Aunt Tressie and Uncle Wheeler, as well as assorted other relatives. Just one more opportunity to connect with the past in this small village.



This month's newsletter discusses the planned replacement of the seven bridges on Ocracoke Island in early 2008, and explains some of the issues we will face. You can read it here.

Working

Sometimes I have to be reminded of how different island life is from the typical American life. I've been working this morning....but it's been quiet here on Howard Street. David stopped by with Lachlan, and since there were no customers I walked outside with them and watched as the young-un pushed a stick through the sand, climbed on graveyard fences, or ran up and down the lane.

Before I knew it, it was noon, so I walked around the corner to my house. David & Lachlan came along, and Julie & Gary were there too. We had plenty of food for lunch -- cold shrimp, cole slaw, salad, homemade rolls, and more.

As we were cleaning up I asked Gary what he was up to today. "Oh," he said, "We biked around the village this morning. I think I'll go out to the dump this afternoon and salvage a few bike parts." I think David will be adding some finishing touches to his new kitchen cabinets this afternoon. I was the only one "really working."

But even I had a few minutes to lie in the hammock before heading back around the corner to the Village Craftsmen. Maybe I'll have customers. Even so, it won't be your typical work day.

This month's newsletter discusses the planned replacement of the seven bridges on Ocracoke Island in early 2008, and explains some of the issues we will face. You can read it here.

Stories & More Stories

"You can't visit with an Ocracoker for more than ten minutes before talk turns to distant relatives and how everyone is kin." So observed my brother this weekend. Earl O'Neal has just completed his nearly 700 page tome on the Howard family (and the Jacksons, Garrishes, and Stowes) of Ocracoke. As Earl explained over dinner last night, they were all intermarried, so a study of one meant a study of them all. Earl's book is full of detailed genealogical information, as well as photos, copies of wills, deeds, & other documents, and stories & history.

After dinner we sat in the living room, shared tales, and laughed til nearly midnight. We all agreed that the best stories could never be printed. That's why we must keep telling them in parlors, around kitchen tables, and along the lanes. If you stick around here long enough, and are patient, maybe you'll hear one of the better stories too.

This month's newsletter discusses the planned replacement of the seven bridges on Ocracoke Island in early 2008, and explains some of the issues we will face. You can read it here.

Not Much News

Just a brief note for today. Family & friends have been visiting, so we've been chatting and catching up on news. Haven't been out and about much, nor have I heard much about local goings-on. So that's it for this Friday. Maybe I'll have something to report tomorrow.


This month's newsletter discusses the planned replacement of the seven bridges on Ocracoke Island in early 2008, and explains some of the issues we will face. You can read it here.

Family & Friends

This afternoon I am expecting a visit from my brother. The weather is looking fine, so maybe he'll want to walk on the beach, or just sit on the pizer and read until I get off work. Amy & David & Lachlan are coming over this evening with their house guest, Jule, from Berlin, to join us for a boiled shrimp dinner. Tomorrow some other cousins are planning to come to the island also and we'll have a larger family gathering for dinner and chatting about old times. Blanche says she's coming too, so we'll have our "keeper of island traditions and family lore" to help keep our stories straight.

This month's newsletter discusses the planned replacement of the seven bridges on Ocracoke Island in early 2008, and explains some of the issues we will face. You can read it here.

More Shells

The other day a customer asked me where the best place was to look for seashells. I explained that there isn't any one particular stretch of the beach that is better than another, and that, furthermore, it's not like it was decades ago before such easy access to the beach by so many people. "You might be lucky and find an unbroken shell," I said, "but don't be disappointed if you don't"

The very next day I spied a section of beach littered with mostly broken shells. But amongst the fragments I located several nice specimens, including one nearly perfect lettered olive. The black object below is actually fairly common. It is a skate egg case, or what Ocracokers call a "Devil's Pocketbook."



This month's newsletter discusses the planned replacement of the seven bridges on Ocracoke Island in early 2008, and explains some of the issues we will face. You can read it here.

A Day Off

What a fine day to take a day off from work. I'm thinking of yesterday (today would be another such day, but I will be working all day today). Monday's temperatures were in the 70s with a light breeze. The sun was bright and cheery.

Amy's good friend from Berlin, Jule, is visiting this week. We decided to take a stroll through the woods (a small maritime forest) and along the sound shore, but first we stopped at the bank and the post office to run a few errands. Jule smiled at how we greeted or talked with just about everyone along the way. I guess the citizens of Berlin don't all know each other by name. Out by the water we watched pleasure boats, a trawler followed by dozens of seagulls, and the Swan Quarter ferry.

Mid day I spent an hour at the beach. (See yesterday's post for a photo of the shipwreck that is exposed.)

Later Capt. Rob invited us to join him and his crew for a sunset cruise on his schooner, the Windfall. Lachlan went with us. I believe it was his first time on a sailboat. He was fascinated to see his favorite landmarks (the lighthouse, the old Coast Guard station, Springer's Point) from a new vantage point. Jule had never been on a schooner before either.

We had a great day.

This month's newsletter discusses the planned replacement of the seven bridges on Ocracoke Island in early 2008, and explains some of the issues we will face. You can read it here.

Wooden Skeleton

It lay on the beach quiet and serene. Sixty feet long, and about four yards wide, it was a silent reminder of tragedy at sea many years ago. I stumbled across the wreck a couple of days ago, and went back this afternoon to take some photos. I mentioned the wreck to Blanche over her picket fence. "Where is it?" she wanted to know. I told her. She thought for a few moments. "You know I think that could be the remains of the Nomis," she offered.

The 134 foot Nomis wrecked on Ocracoke beach in August of 1935. She was one of the last schooners to meet her end on the island. It was as if History itself has surfaced for a while. In due time the blowing sands will re-bury the beams and spikes. In the meanwhile we can only wonder what it was like on the fateful day more than seventy years ago.

You can click on the photos below to view larger images.






This month's newsletter discusses the planned replacement of the seven bridges on Ocracoke Island in early 2008, and explains some of the issues we will face. You can read it here.

A Spring Walk

What a terrific day for a walk through the woods and along the sound shore! Finally spring has arrived, with temperatures in the mid-70s. Lachlan and I stopped at Tom Pahl's house first and inspected his chicken yard. We peeked into the coop but none of the hens was laying this morning. No eggs. So we proceeded on down the path, stopping to identify trees and shrubs -- cedar, myrtle, yaupon, live oak....but Lachlan's favorite (at least his favorite to point out) was poison ivy. And my, was it growing in thick profusion. We kept our distance. Along the shore we watched boats motor past, and stopped to inspect several jellyfish floating in the ripples by the beach. Of course we had to climb a tree or two and put some seeds out for the birds. All in all it was a fun way to spend a sunny spring morning.

This month's newsletter discusses the planned replacement of the seven bridges on Ocracoke Island in early 2008, and explains some of the issues we will face. You can read it here.

Family Photo

A couple of days ago my brother sent me an envelope with a few old pictures he found while organizing his things. My favorite is this one:



This photo was taken about 1948. Notice the helmet shell on the landing. I am sitting beside my mother. My grandmother Aliph is on the porch swing. This is the same house I now live in, on Lawton Lane. Wonderful memories!

This month's newsletter discusses the planned replacement of the seven bridges on Ocracoke Island in early 2008, and explains some of the issues we will face. You can read it here.

Moon Snail

April has been unseasonably cold this year. Folks walk into the Village Craftsmen bundled up in heavy jackets, wool hats, and scarves. Babies are wrapped in blankets, and toddlers wear mittens and caps.

The air at the beach is sharp and cuts through layers of clothes. Yesterday the sand raced across the flats, obliterating my footprints as I walked. It found its way through seams in my shoes, into my socks, and between my toes. I trudged along, hood pulled tight around my face, my head down to protect it from the stinging wind. And that's how I spotted this beautiful moon snail washed up on the beach.



This month's newsletter discusses the planned replacement of the seven bridges on Ocracoke Island in early 2008, and explains some of the issues we will face. You can read it here.

Bridge Replacements

The North Carolina Department of Transportation has slated the seven half-century old bridges on Ocracoke Island for replacement in early 2008. The work will be completed within a 75 day period from the beginning of January next year to mid-March. Many issues are being worked out to ensure the least disruption to island life during that period. Please read our latest newsletter for more information. And check back here regularly. We will keep you posted as any new information becomes available.

The Southern Cottage

The Southern Cottage from the Blue Ridge Mountains to the Florida Keys by Susan Sully just came out last week. A 208 page book richly illustrated with Susan's color photographs, The Southern Cottage features 18 homes, mostly modest cottages representative of southern architecture. Pages 106 - 115 highlight my home on Ocracoke Island. Eight photos and four pages of text document the house and offer a glimpse into Lou Ann's and my life on the island.

Needless to say, having my home chosen to be among the best representations of southern cottages has been exciting. All of Susan's photographs are stunningly beautiful, and I can say with confidence that she portrays the residences (or at least my residence) with integrity and sensitivity to genuineness.

The next time you are in your favorite bookstore (for me that would be Books to be Red on School Road right here in Ocracoke) take a look at the book. I think you'll be impressed.

This month's Ocracoke Newsletter tells how to make a traditional wooden whistle from a myrtle branch. You can read the newsletter here.

Stormy Weather

Well, the north winds finally have arrived. About 1:30 this morning I was awakened by the whistling and howling of the storm. Out my bedroom window the trees were cavorting & dancing with each other. A screen door was banging and the porch rockers were moving in rhythm with the gusts. I walked downstairs and unhooked one side of my porch swing and let it rest on the floor. I turned the rockers over. I even took my flashlight and checked to see if tree limbs were brushing against my car. On the way back inside I hooked the screen door, then crawled back into bed.

This morning I called a neighbor. His home weather station had recorded gusts of only 40 mph (not the 60 mph predicted), but the ten-minute averages were 20-30 mph for several hours.

It's still blowing out there, with gusts of about 20 - 25 mph. The rain is over. School children dressed in pink jackets, bright red coats, and yellow hooded sweatshirts are walking down Howard Street on a mini-field trip. The sun is bright and the sky is "Carolina blue" with an occasional cotton ball cloud passing by. Weather like this makes you feel alive.

This month's Ocracoke Newsletter tells how to make a traditional wooden whistle from a myrtle branch. You can read the newsletter here.

Storm?

Yesterday the weather forecast was calling for strong winds (with gusts up to 60mph) after midnight and throughout today, along with high tides and coastal flooding. Most of the visitors, anticipating ocean overwash on NC highway 12, left the island yesterday. A friend who traveled home down the Outer Banks on Saturday said there was a steady stream of north-bound traffic that made it impossible to pass (but since he was almost the only car heading south he never needed to pass!).

Right now (it's almost 3:30 in the afternoon) the wind gusts are probably little more than 20 - 25 miles an hour, but appear to be increasing. The trees are swaying and the windows are starting to rattle (sort of like a mini hurricane). At any rate, we have not gotten anywhere near 60 mph winds, at least not yet. Only time will tell if we have significant tides and/or flooding later this evening or early tomorrow morning. Just in case, I've put my car up on a small hill.

Since most visitors left yesterday many island shops, including Village Craftsmen, closed for today. It was a good day to catch up on long-neglected chores. But I'm ready to quit now. Some friends are coming over for dinner tonight, so I suppose I'd better go put something on the stove. I'll let you know tomorrow if this storm amounts to anything.

This month's Ocracoke Newsletter tells how to make a traditional wooden whistle from a myrtle branch. You can read the newsletter here.

Turtles

Jude wants me to be sure to tell you that the turtles are back. Because she lives right on the tail end of a tidal creek on the edge of the marsh she has the pleasure of watching quite a lot of wildlife from her deck. She and Frank routinely see egrets, blue herons, and other wading birds, as well as ducks, geese, and the occasional nutria. But the critters she talks about the most, and the ones she is most fond of, are the turtles. She hates to see them disappear in the cold winter months, but is delighted when they return in the spring. You can just see the sparkle in her eyes when she talks about the turtles. I believe she thinks it's like the swallows returning to Capistrano.

Maybe I'll carry Lachlan over to Jude's one day this coming week so we can help feed the turtles.

This month's Ocracoke Newsletter tells how to make a traditional wooden whistle from a myrtle branch. You can read the newsletter here.

Archaeology Adventures

A couple of days ago I received an email from Anne Poole of the Lost Colony Center for Science and Research in Manteo, NC. They have some exciting weekend archaeological events planned for this summer. I thought some of our readers might be interested, so I am sharing her email with you all. If you join them, maybe you will drop us a note afterwards.

"Hello Everyone !

"Summer is right around the corner, and we at The Lost Colony Center for Science and Research have exciting adventures planned for the season ! You are invited to join in with us on any of our research week-ends ! All events are very reasonably priced and will allow you to participate in hands-on archaeology, helping us learn and discover more about what happened to the mysterious band of colonists from 1587 on Roanoke Island !

"Our first event begins on Friday, June 8, at our research center in the Jamesville Community near Washington, NC. Registration begins at 12 noon, followed by an afternoon of learning about the history of Sir Walter Raleigh's Lost Colonists and our research in trying to locate where they went, and also a basic class on "how-to" archaeology. Supper is on your own that night, but we'll suggest local restaurants. You'll spend Friday night and Saturday night at the research center, which is like an inside camping trip...complete with bathrooms and running water ! On Saturday morning, we will provide a light breakfast, and then we'll go on our all day field trip to one of four sites, all of which have connections and / or artifacts connecting to what we believe to be the colonists. One site in particular we are excited about, as we have found a hand dug well, which is what the colonists would have done. This is also an area where we have found a very, very, old burial ground, which MAY be connected to The Lost Colony. After returning from this field trip late Saturday afternoon, we will also provide supper for you with a cook-out. If you happen to be there on a lucky week-end, you may be eating steak ! Or, you may be lucky and have hot dogs and hamburgers ! Either way, we'll make sure you are well fed before bedding down that night ! You can leave on Sunday at any time you want to.

"These events will run every week-end throughout the summer, and most likely into early fall. The total cost is $150 per person, and includes the two nights at the center and the two meals. We are also doing two special week-ends. On the week-ends of June 29 and July 6, we will be at our official Lost Colony motel in Buxton, NC, on the famous Outer Banks of NC ! This was known in the 16th century as Croatan, the home of the friendly Indians to the colonists, and Manteo's mother's village.

"This area is a VERY important archaeological site, and we will be doing the event there on the site. If you are interested in these week-ends, you need to contact me for more information.

"We also have another special event, which will include living on our 36' research sailboat, and going through the sounds on it to get to other sites not accessible by foot. If you are interested in this event, you also need to contact me for details.

"Also, if you are interested in the Buxton event, you are responsible for making your own motel reservations, and need to contact me ASAP for details. The actual artifact hunt and classes will be much cheaper since you are responsible for everything else.

"We are taking reservations now for these week-ends, so let me know which ones you are interested in before they fill up ! Feel free to contact me for any questions !

"Anne Poole,
The Lost Colony Center for Science and Research"

This month's Ocracoke Newsletter tells how to make a traditional wooden whistle from a myrtle branch. You can read the newsletter here.

Virginia Woolf

Last night a group of about two dozen islanders gathered at the home of Leonard Meeker for a pot luck dinner. As usual, there was a table full of delicious dishes, from home made bread to lemon curd & almond ice cream, and everything in between. The evening was about more than eating, however. It was a celebration of the 125th birthday of Virginia Woolf (OK, we were a few months late). Unfortunately I am not as literary as many of the other folks, and had only read 28 pages of To the Lighthouse (I only picked up the book at 11 p.m. the night before), but was fascinated by Woolf's life, her literary gifts, and the insights so many of my neighbors had. It certainly was an inspiration, and you can be sure I will finish my book (though I may have to wait until this busy week is over).

If any of our readers would like to share Virginia Woolf quotations or anecdotes just click on the "comments" link below. We'd be happy to hear from you.

This month's Ocracoke Newsletter tells how to make a traditional wooden whistle from a myrtle branch. You can read the newsletter here.

Ghost & History Walks

Several days ago a reader added this comment to our daily journal:

"Philip, as a frequent visitor to the island, one of the pleasures I enjoy is 'discovering' something new each time I visit -- a new place, new insight into the island's history, etc.Your latest entry mentions your Ghost & History Walks. For those of us who've never had the pleasure, can you share some insights or provide a link where we can find more details about the walks? As always, appreciate your posts. Cheers."

We (that is my daughter, Amy; Lou Ann; & I) offer ghost & history walking tours of the village of Ocracoke every Tuesday and Friday during the "season" at 7:30 in the evening. We started last week and will continue into the fall. We all enjoy sharing the stories and history, and a number of folks have signed up for the tours two or more times. You can read more about them here.

This month's Ocracoke Newsletter tells how to make a traditional wooden whistle from a myrtle branch. You can read the newsletter here.

Snow, Sleet, & Hail

A belated Happy Easter to all of our readers! Didn't write a journal entry yesterday. We all need a day off now and then.

This weekend was strange. At least the weather has been. Saturday started out cold and blustery -- somewhat unusual for mid-April, at least the cold was. Then a customer walked in and said she had seen snow earlier in the day. That was hard to believe, but not long after that I looked out the window and it was snowing....or sleeting....or hailing. I couldn't tell which. I walked outside to see. It was an odd, "clumpy" snow. It wasn't hail or sleet, but it wasn't normal snowflakes either. And it only lasted for a few minutes.

Later on we did have a bit of sleet, and at one point a little rain. In between it all the sun would come out and brighten the day. Like I said, it was strange.

A brief historical note: Yesterday was the 146th anniversary of the wreck of the brig "Black Squall." The Black Squall was loaded with sugar or circus animals, depending on which accounts you read. Maybe it was both. But the circus animals have provided Ocracokers with a wonderfully eccentric story that I must share with all of our readers. But that will have to wait for another day.

This month's Ocracoke Newsletter tells how to make a traditional wooden whistle from a myrtle branch. You can read the newsletter here.

Hattie

On this date in 1887 the sharpie "Hattie" with a crew of two was stranded in Pamlico Sound on nearby "Legged Lump." The crew was aground for several days with nothing to eat. When the Life Saving Crew arrived they all "got overboard and work[ed] hard to get her off as they was in a bad condition...." But the effort failed. They tried again on the next flood tide but were forced to leave the vessel there over night. The next morning, after more than three hours of hard work, they succeeded in freeing the Hattie. Keeper James Howard reported that the captain said "they wold have to....starve if it wold not bin for our service."

Today would not be a good day to be stranded in Pamlico Sound. It is barely 40 degrees this morning, and the winds are blowing more than 30 miles per hour. Where has spring gone? But at least it's above freezing, and we don't have snow. And we know this cold snap won't last forever.

This month's Ocracoke Newsletter tells how to make a traditional wooden whistle from a myrtle branch. You can read the newsletter here.

Reconnecting

This is the time of year when frequent visitors to the island stop by to say hello. We've begun our Ghost & History Walks this week, and on both tours I've had folks who have joined me in years past. It is always good to speak with regular visitors and know that they appreciate the people and culture of Ocracoke Island. Also yesterday a distant cousin (3rd cousin ??) from Maryland stopped by to chat. As one neighbor said once, Ocracoke is one of those places where people talk about things that happened in the early 1800s and bystanders might think it happened yesterday.

Oh, by the way, yesterday's overcast skies quickly morphed into a bright, cheery, sun-filled day. Cool and a bit breezy, as today, but otherwise a perfect spring day.

This month's Ocracoke Newsletter tells how to make a traditional wooden whistle from a myrtle branch. You can read the newsletter here.

A Pewter Sky on Thursday

We knew the balmy spring weather was about to end. It was in the weather reports, and it was the talk of the village. But we didn't want to believe it.

Actually, it's still in the upper 50s this morning, although the sky is gray and overcast. There are more folks on the island this week (spring break in northern Virginia, Ohio, and central North Carolina), so we expect to see many of them on Howard Street later in the day (I don't think it will be a stellar beach day). For those of us who live here, I believe most of us would rather stay home and curl up with a good book or mess about in the house or shed, but alas it's back to work on a regular schedule.

Life could be worse -- a lot worse.

This month's Ocracoke Newsletter tells how to make a traditional wooden whistle from a myrtle branch. You can read the newsletter here.

Thunderstorm

Early this morning I awoke before dawn to the rumble of distant thunder. In a hypnopompic daze I stumbled to the window and lowered the sash near my bed. As I fell back to sleep the thunder grew louder and rain splattered on the roof. I slept through the rest of the storm, but awoke to a blissful near-silence. Downstairs no refrigerator motor hummed. On the mantle the pendulum clock ticked and tocked, and a bird sang in the distance, but that was all. A few clouds still scudded by overhead, but bright sunlight peeked out now and then.

It was our first thunderstorm of the year. And it was refreshing.

The electricity was still off as I ate my breakfast at 8 o'clock. I was having my first reservations about having installed an on-demand water heater two years ago when the power suddenly came back on.

This month's Ocracoke Newsletter tells how to make a traditional wooden whistle from a myrtle branch. You can read the newsletter here.

Getting Back "In the Groove"

Coming back home is always a tad bitter-sweet. When you live in a beautiful place like Ocracoke it's a lot sweet, as most of our readers can imagine....but it was hard to see Lou Ann walk down the airport terminal alone, heading back to Indiana. We had such a wonderful trip last week. She'll be back in June, and that's a good thing.

Back home, of course, I found my inbox packed with spam (as well as several emails to reply to), my post office box full of bills that need to be paid, and my car still packed with a tent, sleeping bags, camping equipment, and dirty clothes. But the sun is bright and cheery, and neighbors' smiles and waves welcome me back to a community like few others. If only I didn't have to work! But, then again, at least I can work barefooted if I want to! Ocracoke is a good place to come home to, even after a terrific vacation.

This month's Ocracoke Newsletter tells how to make a traditional wooden whistle from a myrtle branch. You can read the newsletter here.

Hello Again!

Hi. This is Philip. I've been away for a while -- well not "away away" the whole time. Spent a week helping my son rewire his house, then enjoyed a bit of island time without many responsibilities. This last week Lou Ann & I took a little trip -- went to see her son and daughter-in-law, and had a few other adventures. Among our excursions we included a wonderful four hour canoe trip (seven miles) through the Ocala (Florida) National Forest. We missed the alligators, but did see about two dozen turtles and one very large rattlesnake. I was paddling backwards against the current to get a better look when I realized that Lou Ann was paddling just as hard trying to get away. Finally he slithered back into the underbrush. Just as well, I guess.

We had a super trip with lots of laughter, great talks, terrific swimming, walking, and fascinating history. Alas, it was too brief.

But I'm back home again, ready for a busy two weeks. Stop by and say hello when you're next on the island.

This month's Ocracoke Newsletter tells how to make a traditional wooden whistle from a myrtle branch. You can read the newsletter here.

Ocracoke's First Traffic Light

After years of increased traffic on Ocracoke residents have been calling for the installation of traffic signals at the island's busiest intersections. One of the most notorious intersections is where Lawton Lane joins Howard Street. It was here in 1925 that the island's very first traffic accident occurred, when Mr. Will Willis and Mr. Albert Styron had a head-on collision (theirs were the only two vehicles on the island at the time).

This photo, taken by Linda Rippe of the Ocracoke Observer, was made shortly after the installation of the light. The backup of traffic is testimony to the urgent need for even more signals. Click here for more information.

This month's Ocracoke Newsletter tells how to make a traditional wooden whistle from a myrtle branch. You can read the newsletter here.