It's Slowed Down

As expected things have slowed down on the island but folks don't know what they're missing. This is the best time of the year here. Golden warm days with low humidity, the ocean is still warm and we can turn the AC off in the evening and drift off to sleep to the sound of the ocean. This is also the time of year we have company come to visit and we can actually spend a little time with them or we might have a chance to get away for awhile and explore other places. We have a dear friend visiting from New Jersey this week, our youngest son, his wife and our two year old granddaughter are flying in from Indianapolis on Wednesday and both my husbands' family (about 20) and my family (7) are coming next week so we're going to have a wonderful time! We'll do some fishing, some claming, a lot of eating and I know a lot of laughing. Here's wishing all of you golden days, good friends and family and a lot of laughing. Jude

Guest Writers

Look for several other folks to be posting journal entries in the next few weeks. I will be trading houses with friends from the mountains of North Carolina. Lou Ann will join me for a while, and I'll be able to visit with my son and his family, near Asheville.

I am hoping that Jude, Dallie, & Dale will take turns keeping you informed about the island while I am gone. Maybe my daughter, Amy, will write occasionally, too. And maybe my friends from the mountains will add a post now and then. If they miss a few days here & there, please be patient.

It's always hard to leave Ocracoke, but I am looking forward to seeing Lou Ann and my other grandchildren, and being in the mountains in the fall. I'll be back in early October.

Our current monthly Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the Old August Storm of 1899, published September 15, 2005. You can read it here: http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/news091505.htm.

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A Little Worn

The Island is just about back to normal after the hurricane of last week but she always looks a little worn and tattered for awhile. The leaves on the trees are brown and curled. The cedars and pines were burned by the salt wind. The streets and paths are littered with leaves and sticks and even with the late summer warmth it smells like Autumn. From what I've heard the fishing is great, clamming is great, the crowds have thinned to a trickle and the beach is gorgeous and the water warm. We are so very thankful we were spared and our hearts are with those on the Gulf Coast who have lost so much. We live on such a fragile little spit of sand way out here in the ocean so, as Peter Stone used to say, "What can you expect?" 99% of the time this is heaven.

Church Belfry

Thanks to Woody Billings for these photos of the inside of the Methodist Church Belfry. The wooden wheel was made by my father, Lawton Howard. The closeup shows the metal plate with his name and the date, 1979.

Sometimes 1979 seems like such a short time ago, but then I remember that I had hair back then!






Our current monthly Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the Old August Storm of 1899, published September 15, 2005. You can read it here: http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/news091505.htm.

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Hurricanes

Today is September 18, the two-year anniversary of the Outer Banks' encounter with hurricane Isabel. This major storm brought strong winds & high tides, cut a new inlet just north of Hatteras Village, and seriously affected the economies of Hatteras and Ocracoke.

This year, as we all know, the Gulf Coast was devastated by hurricane Katrina; and Ophelia left her mark on Eastern North Carolina just days ago.

One hundred and six years ago a major hurricane visited Ocracoke & Hatteras islands. It was probably the most devastating storm to hit this area since anyone has been keeping records.

You can read the story on our Ocracoke Newsletter: http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/news091505.htm

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Clean Up

Rain this morning....and another power outage, however cleanup progresses. Electricity has been restored. The sun is out now, and the sky is bright. Mostly the village looks a bit bedraggled, but folks are powerwashing their boardwalks & ramps, cutting up fallen tree limbs, picking up debris, and drying out their belongings. Everyone is thankful that we had so little tide.

Village Craftsmen will reopen this afternoon at 1 o'clock. In a day or so I'm guessing that nearly everthing will be open again. Check this link for ferry information: http://www.ncferry.org. Click on "Important Traveler Alerts" for the latest bulletins.

Our current monthly Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the Old Toothbrush Man, published August 01, 2005. You can read it here: http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/news080105.htm.]

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Ferry Report

From the NC Ferry Division website (http://www.ncferry.org), Friday, 09/16/05:

Hurrican Ophelia Update

Due to conditions caused by Hurricane Ophelia, ferries are operating as follows:

• Cedar Island - Ocracoke: Suspended until further notice
• Hatteras: Modified schedule - departs hourly from both sides from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m.
• Swan Quarter - Ocracoke: Modified schedule - departs from Swan Quarter at 9:30 a.m, 12:30 p.m. and 4 p.m.; departs Ocracoke at 9:30 a.m. and 12:30 p.m.

It is expected that all routes will resume regular schedules on Saturday, September 17.

Call 511, the state's free travel hotline or 1-800-BY-FERRY for up-to-date information on ferry operations.

Blue Sky

Well, enough to make a pair of Dutchman's britches anyway. The wind has just about stopped altogether. And no rain. The worst case predictions of serious soundside flooding never materialized.

Power was off throughout the night but came back on about a half hour ago. Haven't heard anything about Highway 12, when the ferries will resume operations, or when visitors will be allowed to return to the island.

For now, we're ready to start cleanup, especially of downed tree limbs.

Our current monthly Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the Old Toothbrush Man, published August 01, 2005. You can read it here: http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/news080105.htm.]

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2:00 Hurricane update..

Dear Friends,

I was able to have a brief talk with Philip a short time ago amidst the Hurricane.

The electricity has been down since last night. The winds were clocked at 80 miles per hour last night although currently he thought they were about 40 miles per hour.

So far there is no tide water in the Village. He did take a brief walk and noticed tree limbs down on Howard Street, but nothing major.

The storm is long and arduous. He is reading..napping..listening to the wind blow.

I only wish I could join him in a long game of Scrabble!!

I'll try and keep you posted. We are only having brief chats to save his cell phone for emergencies.

He wanted me to thank all of you for your concern.

Until I have more news,

Lou Ann

Emergency Generator

All during the night the winds howled. Trees bent over and rain, at times, fell in torrents. The power went out sometime after midnight. I'm guessing that the wind velocity reached 75 - 80 mph.

At the present time winds continue to buffet the island, but it's probably blowing at about 40 mph, still from the northeast. Tideland Electric fired up our emergency generator about an hour ago.

No one knows what to expect once the storm passes and the winds shift. We're hoping Ophelia will move further offshore which should reduce the threat of soundside flooding. I've seen or heard of very little damage -- branches down here and there, even a few trees blown over; and some shingles gone, but I'm hoping not much else. Right now there's little to do except watch and wait.

Our current monthly Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the Old Toothbrush Man, published August 01, 2005. You can read it here: http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/news080105.htm.]

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Last Update for Wednesday

Not much has changed since my last post. Just a bit more rain. However, we are expecting conditions to worsen through the night and tomorrow morning. I will be shutting down the computer in a few minutes, and may or may not have opportunity to post tomorrow (this computer is in my office at Village Craftsmen, and I have no computer in my home).

Forecasters are predicting both ocean and sound side flooding as Ophelia approaches. I will post the next update as soon as it is convenient and safe.

Our current monthly Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the Old Toothbrush Man, published August 01, 2005. You can read it here: http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/news080105.htm.]

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Update

Winds have increased, though only to about 30-35 mph. Out by the water it is brisk. At my house the porch swing is barely moving. Rain is still slight and infrequent. It's been a day for reading and napping.

Our current monthly Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the Old Toothbrush Man, published August 01, 2005. You can read it here: http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/news080105.htm.]

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Breezy

The first hints of Ophelia have reached Ocracoke. The sky is cloudy and the wind has increased (though it's still little more than a mild breeze, at least on Howard Street). We've had only a few brief and light sprinkles. Fortunately, it seems a tad cooler today, but maybe that's just because of the breeze.

We are hoping this storm moves on out as quickly as possible, though some experts think it may stall over the Outer Banks. There's not much to do right now -- answer a few emails, return several phone calls, and then relax on the porch swing and finish my novel. It's too bad Lou Ann is not here right now. She says she'd bake cookies, and then we could sit on the porch swing together. She even said she'd like to be here to help me clean up after the storm passes. Am I lucky or what?

I'll keep you posted as long as possible.

Our current monthly Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the Old Toothbrush Man, published August 01, 2005. You can read it here: http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/news080105.htm.]

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It's An Ill Wind That Blows No One Good

Well, it looks like Ophelia is headed for the Outer Banks, though no one thinks this will ever be a major hurricane. In the meanwhile Ocracokers are just waiting and watching -- and enjoying the gorgeous weather and uncharactisticly quiet village.

Ocracoke is nearly shut down. Even school has been canceled. Captain Rob Temple called me just before noon, wanting to know if I cared to join him and Emmett (10 years old) and Molly ( 11 years old) clamming at Teach's Hole. We walked down to Springer's Point, then out into the shallow water. For several hours we pushed our rakes across the sound floor and netted nearly 100 clams. Emmett and Molly stayed on the shore and just "messed around" like kids are supposed to do.

Not a single person was in sight anywhere. Pamlico Sound extended for miles on one side; undeveloped Springer's Point, the National Seashore, and the South Point stretched an equal distance on the other side. Only the lantern and the tip of the lighthouse were visible beyond the trees. All was quiet and serene.

I reflected on how lucky Rob and I were, gathering our supper in one of the most beautiful spots I know. And then I thought how lucky Emmett and Molly are, growing up where they are safe & free, close to nature, and given the opportunity to spend a leisurely afternoon doing nothing more than simply exploring.

Our current monthly Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the Old Toothbrush Man, published August 01, 2005. You can read it here: http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/news080105.htm.]

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A Very Quiet Morning

A light rain fell during the night. The sky is partly cloudy. The temperature is near 80. Only a mild breeze is rustling the trees. Other than the twitter of a songbird in the cedar branches Howard Street is eerily quiet.

The weather bureau has issued a Tropical Storm Warning for Ocracoke & surrounding areas of the Outer Banks. Forecasts now indicate that Ophelia may not reach eastern North Carolina until sometime on Thursday. The good news is that little strengthening is expected.

Most islanders have completed their hurricane preparations. Now all we can do is wait, and hope for the best.

Our current monthly Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the Old Toothbrush Man, published August 01, 2005. You can read it here: http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/news080105.htm.]

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Waiting & Watching

There's not much else to do. Fishermen have mostly brought in their nets, boats are out of the water or secured with extra line, a few cars are parked on higher ground. But Ophelia is moving very slowly. It seems that it will be Wednesday or maybe even Thursday before we feel the full impact of this storm. Nevertheless, at this time many deliveries to the island are being curtailed, and travel to Ocracoke is restricted. We understand that ferry operations will likely be completely suspended later today or early tomorrow.


The good news is that this is not now a severe hurricane. However because Ophelia is moving so slowly, emergency management personnel are expecting an extended storm which could mean soundside and/or ocean flooding.

Our current monthly Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the Old Toothbrush Man, published August 01, 2005. You can read it here: http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/news080105.htm.]

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A Holiday of Sorts

The island is very quiet. All non-residents have been evacuated. Islanders are busy making last minute plans for hurricane Ophelia -- turning porch rockers upside down, taking boats out of the water, cleaning up yard clutter, even patching a roof or boarding up windows. But most folks are calm and relaxed. This storm shows no signs of becoming extreme or catastophic.

In fact, most Ocracokers are enjoying a few days of a forced vacation. Talk is of get-togethers, pot lucks, parties, maybe even a square dance. It looks like the storm is still 2 - 3 days away. We'll keep you posted.

Our current monthly Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the Old Toothbrush Man, published August 01, 2005. You can read it here: http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/news080105.htm.]

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Ophelia

Forecasts for hurricane Ophelia now suggest that she might make landfall on the southern North Carolina coast. Consequently, Hyde County officials have now issued a mandatory evacuation of Ocracoke Island for all non-residents.

Although I don't anticipate significant impact from this storm, we have all been fooled before (remember Alex last year?). Check back later tonight or tomorrow for more information as it becomes available.

Our current monthly Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the Old Toothbrush Man, published August 01, 2005. You can read it here: http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/news080105.htm.]

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Alligator

No, not the reptilian version. The submarine version. In 1863 the U.S. Navy's first submarine, the "Alligator" was lost in a fierce storm off Cape Hatteras.

Today a joint expedition of NOAA (The National Oceanic & Atmosmpheric Administration), with support from the Office of Naval Research, continues a previous search for the Alligator.

According to NOAA's web site, the present survey, which is based on Ocracoke Island, "is part of an ongoing effort by NOAA, ONR and partners to solve the mystery of the Alligator's fate, while promoting scientific and historical research, education and ocean literacy."

The hunt will continue for four days, employing "a robot sub and metal detector and other remote sensing equipment."

You can read more from NOAA here.

Our current monthly Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the Old Toothbrush Man, published August 01, 2005. You can read it here: http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/news080105.htm.]

Another Story

I just returned home a few hours ago. I left yesterday morning for an eye appointment on Wednesday afternoon in Elizabeth City and a dental appointment today in Nags Head. (Otherwise routine tasks can be very time-consuming when you live on Ocracoke!)

On the way back yesterday I stopped at an antique store. In the course of purchasing a couple of small items I discovered that the owner is originally from Hatteras Island. We visited for almost two hours, swapping tales and stories. Here is one he told me about one of his kin:

It was years ago and Tom wanted a load of sand to put on the floor of a shell shop he was opening in response to the growing influx of tourists to the Outer Banks. It hadn't been many years since the federal government had created the Cape Hatteras National Seashore. For generations islanders had been accustomed to digging sand from the beach for mixing cement and for other projects, but now that practice was outlawed.

Tom asked a cousin who had the equipment if maybe he could get him one or two loads of sand. "Tom, you know it's not allowed no longer. Them park rangers are out there on that beach thick as fleas," he said. "And it wouldn't be right. That beach is protected federal property now."

Tom reflected a moment and said, "Trav, they're not out there after midnight are they?"

His cousin didn't hesitate. "Tom, where was it you said you wanted that sand dumped?"


Our current monthly Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the Old Toothbrush Man, published August 01, 2005. You can read it here: http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/news080105.htm.]

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A Quiet Morning

Rain during the night has left us a world settled and quiet. Not many folks milling about yet, but the chance of more rain is slight, so we're expecting the village to wake up and get about its business shortly. There's no need to rush, however. We'll just take our time and enjoy the stillness for a while.

[Our current monthly Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the Old Toothbrush Man, published August 01, 2005. You can read it here: http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/news080105.htm.]

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A Story

Yesterday afternoon I took my grandson, Lachlan, out for a stroll. We stopped by to visit Nathaniel Jackson. He is 77 years old and he entertained us for several hours (actually Lachlan fell asleep, but that allowed me to enjoy Nathaniel's stories uninterrupted). Here is one of the stories he shared:

Years ago, when Ocracoke was a "dry" township, an O'cocker was sitting on one of the benches on Jack Willis' dock. Earlier in the day he'd gotten into a fresh batch of homemade meal wine. He could barely hold his head up. A stranger ambled down the dock and the O'cocker raised his eyes to check him out.

Recognizing a potential source of valuable information, the stranger immediately asked, "Do you know where I can get some beer?"

"Certainly I do," replied the O'cocker, and lowered his head to his knees.

"Where, where?' the stranger inquired, hoping to extract the information before it was too late.

The O'ccoker raised his head one more time, looked the fellow in the eye, and said one word -- "Millwaukee."

[Our current monthly Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the Old Toothbrush Man, published August 01, 2005. You can read it here: http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/news080105.htm.]

October Village Days

It's not too early to be thinking about a trip to the island this fall. As I write, the Ocracoke Civic & Business Association is planning for our 2005 Village Days. The dates are October 21-23. There will be opportunities to visit the Ocracoke lighthouse and to view the island ponies up close. Many shops, restaurants, and motels will be offering special promotions and/or discounts. Plans are being made for craft demonstrations (pottery, quilting, & decoy carving), as well as studio/gallery tours, historic porch talks, foot-stompin' music, and even an old-time Ocracoke Square Dance.

Make your reservations now. October is one of the very best months to visit Ocracoke, and Village Days makes it even more appealing.

[Our current monthly Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the Old Toothbrush Man, published August 01, 2005. You can read it here: http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/news080105.htm.]

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Windows Wide Open

With temperatures in the mid-70's, a gentle breeze, and only a few scattered clouds, this evening is the perfect time to hoist up the windows, open wide the doors, and enjoy an early taste of fall.

Moments ago, lying on my front porch swing playing simple tunes on my harmonica, I could hear a few voices from across the lane and the "clip, clop" of a draft horse pulling a carriage down Back Road. I've dragged myself away from the mellowness of a near-perfect evening to type these few sentences, but I shall not tarry. My daily walk through the village beckons and I must go.

[Our current monthly Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the Old Toothbrush Man, published August 01, 2005. You can read it here: http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/news080105.htm.]

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Treasure Ship

On this date two-hundred and fifty-five years ago the Spanish Treasure ship, Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe, laden with a million pieces of eight, anchored off of Ocracoke after barely surviving a fierce storm in mid-August. Some reports indicate that a portion of the treasure was spirted away by an unnamed captain of a passing sloop; and the remainder transported to Spain. Others believe the ship broke apart and that her treasure still lies buried beneath the sands at the bottom of Pamlico Sound, somewhere between Ocracoke & Portsmouth Islands.

Very occasionally someone walking our shoreline will find a coin or artifact from years ago. If we ever find anything we'll be sure to let you know. Or maybe you will be the person to locate the "Guadalupe's" treasure, or maybe even Blackbeard's.

Good Luck!

[Our current monthly Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the Old Toothbrush Man, published August 01, 2005. You can read it here: http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/news080105.htm.]

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A Shopper To Keep An Eye On

As usual, the days before a holiday weekend are quiet. The weather has been gorgeous. Bright sunshine and temperatures in the mid-eighties today. But only a few folks on the island. They are loving it. Not much traffic, beaches to themselves, and leisurely shopping.

Only a few people have stopped by the Village Craftsmen this morning. But I had one shopper that I needed to keep my eye on. He was into everything, trying to pick up pottery & glassware, and rearranging shelves throughout our gallery. He didn't even have any money...not even a credit card. Luckily I snapped this photo in case I need to report anything missing to the authorities.




[Our current monthly Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the Old Toothbrush Man, published August 01, 2005. You can read it here: http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/news080105.htm.]

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Thinking About Vacations

Now that August is gone (and the mad rush of the tourist season, too) Ocracokers are thinking about taking some time off. Maybe it will be next week, next month, or in the dead of winter. But thoughts are turning to visits with family and friends off-island, travels to exotic lands, sailing adventures, and even luxury cruises.

Visitors often wonder what islanders do for vacations. We seldom have opportunities to take summer holidays, of course, but we do look forward to some time away from home, just like other folks.

___________________________

On a much more somber note, Ocracokers, like people all across our country, are grieving for the residents of New Orleans & the Gulf Coast. One of the best ways to help is a donation to the Red Cross. Islanders know from experience that the Red Cross provided much needed assistance after the serious hurricanes (Isabel & Alex) in 2003 & 2004.

[Our current monthly Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the Old Toothbrush Man, published August 01, 2005. You can read it here: http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/news080105.htm.]

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Hidden History

Several days ago I found myself standing (a bit reluctantly) on the peak of the roof of the Methodist Church. A spindly aluminum extension ladder led to the edge of the roof, and a second ladder was propped up on the first, leading all the way to the ridge and the belfry. Woody Billings had graciously offered (OK, he was cajoled by the preacher, Joyce Reynolds) to repair the mechanism that allows one to toll the bell by pulling on a rope in the vestibule.

After removing the louvers in the belfry to gain access to the bell Woody discovered that the rope is wound around a 3-foot hand-made wooden wheel attached to an axle that turns the bell. On the wheel is a metal plate engraved with the words, "Made by Lawton Howard, 1979." Woody wanted to be sure I saw this normally hidden example of my dad's craftsmanship.

And so it was that I was standing on the peak of the church roof on a sunny August morning. Had the upper ladder on which I was standing actually been secured to something more stable I might have been inclined to stay a while longer and enjoy the view. But I was happy to climb back down.

Woody took some photos of the bell and the wheel. Maybe he'll email one to me so I can publish it.

[Our current monthly Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the Old Toothbrush Man, published August 01, 2005. You can read it here: http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/news080105.htm.]

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Tortillas, Enchiladas, & Burritos

The large canvas rain tent was set up at the Community Center yesterday evening. By the time David & I arrived (about 6:30) the road was choked with vehicles and the grounds were bustling with Ocracoke residents.

The island's sizeable Mexican community was hosting a fund raiser for the Ocracoke Day Care. Tables were set up and piled high with flour tortillas, refried beans, hot sauces, guacamole, lettuce, tomatoes, and sour cream. The mood was festive, the smiles contagious, and the food delicious.

I don't know how much money was raised, but it had to be a tidy sum. Everyone, it seemed, was there, and all were contributing to a wonderful local cause.

[Our current monthly Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the Old Toothbrush Man, published August 01, 2005. You can read it here: http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/news080105.htm.]

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Oxford Scholar Returns to the Island

One of Ocracoke's brightest schoolteachers stopped by the house at lunchtime yesterday. Charles Temple had spent the summer at Oxford studying British poetry. Amy, David, and Lachlan were with me on the back porch enjoying a leisurely midday meal when Charles walked in. It was so good to see him again. He was full of excitement and enthusiasm, and entertained us with a few stories about the campus, the hordes of U.S. and Italian summer students in London, and why he hadn't acquired a British accent.

He graciously accepted a sloppy joe sandwich, cheese doodles, and a soft drink. I remarked that he showed no signs of being insufferable, but he assured me that I might want to reserve judgment. At any rate it's good to have Charles back on the island.

[Our current monthly Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the Old Toothbrush Man, published August 01, 2005. You can read it here: http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/news080105.htm.]

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Island Fig Cake

Ocracoke figs have ripened and many an island kitchen is now stocked with mason jars filled with sweet fig preserves. One of Ocracoke's most popular local delicacies is the dark, moist, and tasty fig cake. If you are lucky enough to have of a jar of preserves you might want to try this traditional island recipe. (You can order Ocracoke fig preserves here.)

Ingredients: 1 cup salad oil; 1 1/2 cup sugar; 3 eggs; 1 tsp. soda, dissolved in a little hot water; 2 cups flour; 1 tsp. nutmeg; 1 tsp. allspice; 1 tsp. cinnamon; 1 tsp. salt; 1/2 cup buttermilk; 1 tsp. vanilla; 1 cup preserved & chopped figs (or dates, if you can't locate figs); 1 cup chopped nuts.

Beat 3 eggs; add sugar and oil. After sifting dry ingredients, add to egg mixture alternately with buttermilk. Add vanilla and fold in figs and nuts. Pour into greased oblong pan and bake at 325 degrees for 45 minutes to 1 hour, or in a well greased tube pan at 350 degrees just a little longer.

[Our current monthly Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the Old Toothbrush Man, published August 01, 2005. You can read it here: http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/news080105.htm.]

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Can Fall Be Far Behind?

Last evening and this morning have been simply gorgeous. Temperatures dropped a bit, and a light breeze has been caressing the island. Skies are clear and the opressive heat has lifted. We all know that summer temperatures are sure to return, but islanders are reveling in this end-of-summer taste of cooler weather, and looking forward to a glorious fall.

[Our current monthly Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the Old Toothbrush Man, published August 01, 2005. You can read it here: http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/news080105.htm.]

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A Mellow Morning

I awoke early this morning to the light patter of rain on the roof. Outside, in the half-light, freshly formed droplets were hanging for a moment on the leaves & branches before falling gracefully to the ground below. All was quiet and calm. Gradually, very gradually, the yaupons, cedars, and live oaks emerged from the darkness in verdant profusion.

It was the perfect morning to eat a leisurely breakfast while listening to gentle tunes by John Golden, especially "The Last Farewell" & "Roseanna."

[Our current monthly Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the Old Toothbrush Man, published August 01, 2005. You can read it here: http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/news080105.htm.]

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Clop, Clop, Clop

Imagine my surprise yesterday evening as I was sitting on my porch swing about 9 o'clock. A large white draft horse ambled by pulling a white carriage. I waved to the drivers and they stopped to chat for a few minutes. They are here on vacation (I guess they just decided to bring along their draft horse and carriage like other folks pack sun screen and beach umbrellas!).

They've decided to offer rides around the village this week. Sounds like they might return next season, too -- maybe for the entire summer.

(On this date in 1925 the four masted schooner, "Victoria S," loaded with lumber, wrecked on Ocracoke's beach.)

[Our current monthly Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the Old Toothbrush Man, published August 01, 2005. You can read it here: http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/news080105.htm.]

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87 Degrees

That's the water temperature! According to Dale, who keeps track of such things, the water this summer is sometimes warmer than the air.

Amy, Lachlan, and I spent part of yesterday morning at the beach. The ocean floor dropped off close to shore and the water was up to my chest in just a few paces. The waves were a rich aqua green and medium sized (with little current) and fun to play in. Not the best for a one year old, to be sure, but Amy & I took turns playing with Lachlan in the small waves right on the edge of the beach. He had a grand time, laughing and splashing and licking salt from his lips. No one got chilly today!

Another historical note: Today is the anniversary of one of two major hurricanes that struck in 1933. Water was knee deep between the village and the beach. Boats were sunk, fish houses washed out to sea, and porches of houses blown away. Captain Bill Gaskill's Pamlico Inn was badly damaged and the dance hall at the end of his dock was swept away (the Inn and docks were repaired, only to be damaged beyond repair in the September hurricane of 1944).

[Our current monthly Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the Old Toothbrush Man, published August 01, 2005. You can read it here: http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/news080105.htm.]

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The Post Office

It's for more than just picking up your mail. You can get things done there -- if you just happen to run into the right person. Maybe you need to borrow a 3/4" drill. Who knows....Jason might be in the lobby and you can ask him. Or maybe a friend's daughter is hoping to move to the island next summer...and that neighbor with a spare room just walked in to check her mail.

It's a good idea to check the bulletin board while you're there. You can read about building permits that have been applied for, copy down an email address if you want to voice your concern about off-shore oil drilling, or check to see if anyone has found your lost bike. Need a ride to Norfolk? Want to share news about politicians in Swan Quarter? Have a boat for sale? Post it at the Post Office. Birth announcements, wedding invitations, addresses of folks in the hospital in Elizabeth City --- all this and more is to be found on the Post Office bulletin board.

And an historical note: On this date in 1840 the Outer Banks got it's first Post Office, on Ocracoke. The postmaster was William Hatton Howard.

[Our current monthly Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the Old Toothbrush Man, published August 01, 2005. You can read it here: http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/news080105.htm.]

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Shipwrecks of Old

August 20, 1887 was a "fearful" stormy day. According to James Howard, keeper of the Life Saving Station at Hatteras Inlet the sea was "full" and running over the beach. He reported that he could barely see due to the driving rain. At 2 pm, after the tide had dropped off he patrolled the beach and discovered two schooners, both with their main masts gone, beached on the sound side.

The storm was so intense that Captain Jim's rescue boat was driven up on the shore and he lost both oars and his rudder. It wasn't until early morning of the next day that he was able to reach the "Cherubim" and the "A.J. Marine."

Both vessels were eventually refloated with no lives lost.

[Our current monthly Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the Old Toothbrush Man, published August 01, 2005. You can read it here: http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/news080105.htm.]

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Stress Relief

"Looks like you need something to relieve your stress and tension," a neighbor hollered out facetiously as he passed by in front of my house last night.

I was lying on my porch swing, bare feet propped up on the chain, absorbed in an article in the New Yorker. The sun had set and the bright moonlight was casting surreal shadows across the drive. It took me a moment to respond.

"Maybe I should take a vacation to a remote island and get away from this rat race," was all I could manage to say before he disappeared down the lane.

[Our current monthly Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the Old Toothbrush Man, published August 01, 2005. You can read it here: http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/news080105.htm.]

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Happy Birthday Roy!

Ocrafolk Opry star and outstanding island raconteur, Roy Parsons, celebrated his 84th birthday yesterday at the Wednesday night performance at Deepwater Theater. Roy played his guitar and mouth harp, and yodeled to a packed house. He also told tales of World War II & the Ghost Ship of the Outer Banks (did the cat really sail that schooner?).

After the show Rosemary Garrish treated Roy and the rest of the performers with a decorated sheet cake, butterscotch brownies, and everyone's favorite, Ocracoke Island fig cake.

We wish Roy a very Happy Birthday, and, of course, many more!

[Our current monthly Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the Old Toothbrush Man, published August 01, 2005. You can read it here: http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/news080105.htm.]

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Cigarettes & Baloney

Ocracokers love to pick on each other. It's good-natured, of course, but humorous stories about locals live on for years, even many years after folks are gone. Dale told me the following story just the other day.

It seems an old time O'cocker went down to one of the local stores. He walked up to the counter and told the clerk what he'd come in for. "I'd like a cartoon of cigarettes," he said, "and a pound of babalony."

One sign of a small community, and especially of a close-knit small community is residents' ability to laugh at themselves. This is just one of many pithy stories that O'cockers continue to tell. I suppose it's a good sign that our community is still intact.

[Our current monthly Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the Old Toothbrush Man, published August 01, 2005. You can read it here: http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/news080105.htm.]

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The Old August Storm

Hello folks this is Dale. Philip decided to let me write today's journal entry about the hurricane of 1899. I am the Cooperative Weather Observer for the National Weather Service here at Ocracoke, so he thought it would be appropriate for me to do the entry today.

One of the worst hurricanes ever to strike the island occurred on today's date (August 16), 1899. Known by most folks as the San Ciriaco hurricane, Ocracokers call it The Old August Storm. The 1899 weather observer at the Weather Bureau Office in Hatteras gives this account of the hurricane.

"The wind began blowing a gale on the morning of the 16th varying in velocity from 35 to 50 mph. On the early morning of the 17th the wind increased to a hurricane and at 4 am it was blowing at the rate of 70 mph. At 10 am it had increased to 84 mph and at 1 pm it was blowing a velocity of 93mph with occasional extreme velocities of 120 to 140 mph. The wind blew with even greater force from 3 pm to 7 pm. It is believed that between these hours the wind reached a regular velocity of at least 100 mph. At about 7:30 pm on the 17th there was a very decided lull in the force of the wind and at 8 pm it had fallen out until only a gentle breeze was blowing. The lull did not last more than a half hour, before the wind veered to the east and then south-east and began blowing at a velocity estimated to be 60 to 70 mph which continued until the morning of the 18th. During the morning of the 18th the wind veered to the south and continued to blow a gale, with heavy rain squalls all day, decreasing somewhat in the late evening and then going south-west. This day may be said to be the end of the hurricane, although the weather continued squally on the 19th, but without any winds of very high velocity".

In Philip's next newsletter he will give a more detailed accounting of the hurricane and the experiences of the Ocracoke people.

[Our current monthly Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the Old Toothbrush Man, published August 01, 2005. You can read it here: http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/news080105.htm.]

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An Hour & a Half

That's how long it takes me to get to work. Well, the commute itself isn't so bad, just a short walk around the corner. About a minute, maybe a little longer if my neighbors are sitting on their porch and I stop to say good morning.

I nornally rise between 6:30 & 7:30. Breakfast is first on my agenda. Oatmeal (with real maple syrup & cinnamon), a smoothie, and English muffins are standard fare. Occasionally I enjoy eggs, bacon, & grits or hash brown potatoes. My son-in-law, Fiddler Dave, made me a table-top book stand for Christmas two years ago. I prop up my latest book and read as I eat. (Even better, when Lou Ann is here we share thoughts, tell funny stories, plan our day together.)

By the time I wash the breakfast dishes, make my bed, water the plants, and take my shower it's time to stroll over to Village Craftsmen. No hurry, no mad rush, no half-eaten breakfast roll. Island life suits me just fine.

[Our current monthly Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the Old Toothbrush Man, published August 01, 2005. You can read it here: http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/news080105.htm.]

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Bath Water

That's exactly what the ocean feels like. The water is so warm that it is almost not refreshing. Almost....

It really is refreshing, of course.

I waited until late in the afternoon today to take my walk on the beach. After a half hour I jumped into the waves and found a chest-deep hole to swim and relax in.

Curiously, after about ten minutes my foot stumbled on a patch of cool sand on the ocean floor. I dove under and felt around with my hands, but found nothing unusual. I wondered -- could it be seepage from the underground aquifer that supplies the village with our drinking water? I've heard that the Castle Hane Aquifer empties into the Atlantic somewhere near the campground, but I really don't know. Maybe one of our readers has more information.

Regardless, my afternoon swim was so wonderful I hardly wanted to get out of the water.

[Our current monthly Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the Old Toothbrush Man, published August 01, 2005. You can read it here: http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/news080105.htm.]

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A Beautiful Day

Sunny, clear, and temperatures in the 80's. It's just almost perfect weather today. I didn't make it to the beach this morning, but I've heard the waves are big again. I'm guessing this might be the effect of tropical depression Irene. The latest reports continue to predict a significant turn to the northeast, so we're looking towards continued great weather with virtually no additional impact from this storm.

[Our current monthly Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the Old Toothbrush Man, published August 01, 2005. You can read it here: http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/news080105.htm.]

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Ocean Waves

The surf yesterday was big...with lots of white water and some current. It was great for body surfing and boogie boarding. The water today was not so rough. I even found a chest deep pool between the beach and the breakers that was just perfect for swimming. Even better -- no one was anywhere nearby. I had the beach to myself.

After my swim I walked a couple of miles down the beach, then lay in the sun and read a while. Not long enough to risk a sunburn, but enough to thoroughly relax. After one more quick dip in the ocean it was back home for lunch and to work this afternoon.

A glance at the weather web site indicates more great beach days ahead. It looks like "Irene" will be staying well out to sea. We're all happy about that!

[Our current monthly Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the Old Toothbrush Man, published August 01, 2005. You can read it here: http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/news080105.htm.]

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Graveyard of the Atlantic

Several weeks ago Lou Ann and I made an excursion to Hatteras. We stopped at the Graveyard of the Atlantic Museum which is still under construction but open to the public. Just inside the main entrance is the Cape Hatteras lighthouse's original 1st order Fresnel lens. It is quite impressive.

In the late 1800's my great-grandfather, James Howard, was keeper of the Hatteras Inlet Life Saving Station. (Although it washed away in the mid 1950's, you can still see the pilings out in the ocean on the north end of Ocracoke.) Thanks to Bill Marsh of Suffolk, Virginia I have Captain Jim's original shipwreck reports which I carried with me to show to the museum's director, Joe Schwarzer.

Together we perused the reports and toured the museum, including sections not yet completed. We had an opportunity to see a number of artifacts, including the large metal capstan from the Carroll A. Deering, the Ghost Ship of the Outer Banks, which wrecked in 1921.

I had always heard that more than 500 ships met their end off the coast of North Carolina. I was surprised to learn that the number is more than three times that figure. It is sobering to remember the tragedies, the lives lost, and the bravery and heroism of the surfmen and keepers of the Outer Banks Life Saving Stations.

If you have an opportunity to visit the museum, walk in and take a look around. The building is still under construction, but admission is free. At completion this will be a state of the art museum, a must-stop for anyone curious about shipwrecks and the many dramatic rescues along the Outer Banks.

[Our current monthly Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the Old Toothbrush Man, published August 01, 2005. You can read it here: http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/news080105.htm.]

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Mad Mag Photos

Weeks ago I promised phtotos of our winning July 4th float. These were recently sent to me by long-time friend Janet Sigler.

Dave Frum is driving the truck. David Tweedie is providing fiddle music on the tailgate. Jim Fineman from Manteo (in the yellow slicker in the second photo) was passing out information about Mad Mag Howard. Mag is played by Lou Ann in the purple dress. She, Mad Mag that is, is locally famous for a number of odd behaviors, not the least of which was cooking one of the island cats for her husband's dinner! I am portraying Mag's husband, John Sime Howard, pulling the cat out of the pot.

We had a great time, and you may remember that we won 2nd place. Some day I'll publish the entire story of Mag. Til then, enjoy the photos.

A Day Off

Visitors to Ocracoke come to the island to swim in the ocean, ride bikes in the village, fish a bit, and just relax. They sometimes imagine that those of us who live here are on a twelve month vacation. They see us sitting on our porches, walking along the beach, and working barefooted. We enjoy a delightful lifestyle to be sure, but no, we are not on an extended holiday.

However we do take days off, even in the busy summer months. Yesterday I slept a bit later than usual, then rode out to the Pony Pen beach. The water was warm and rougher than nornal, but I didn't notice any strong currents. I swam and floated and dove under the waves. The sky was the bluest blue with cotton candy clouds on the eastern horizon. A few rain clouds hovered over the ocean to the south and over the sound to the west. I walked several miles soaking in the warm August sun.

After lunch I read a while and took a short nap. By 3:30 I was ready to discharge my duty as babysitter. Lachlan and I went visiting. Our first stop was to see Muzel Bryant. She is 101 years old and sharp as an island sand spur. After visiting several other folks we played in the parlor, had our supper, and fell asleep in the hammock.

Not a bad way to spend a day off.

[Our current monthly Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the Old Toothbrush Man, published August 01, 2005. You can read it here: http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/news080105.htm.]

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Painting Complete

For those of you who have been following the progress of the rehabilitation of my grandparents' house, I thought you might enjoy seeing a photo that was taken just a few days ago, after my neighbor, Matt Brown, finished the exterior painting. The house has been restored to its original colors -- white with brick red trim. As an Ocracoke resident said some years ago, "It's as cute as a bug's ear."

A Quiet Sunday Morning

Saturday was such a long, exhausting day (thus no journal entry yesterday). I drove Lou Ann to the airport. No one wanted to see her leave.

We awoke at 4:30 and caught the 6:00 am ferry to Hatteras. Then "up the beach" and to Norfolk. We were caught up in a vast ingress and egress. Vacationers in cars and pickup trucks and SUVs pulling boats, their roofs laden with surfboards, kayaks, and bicycles. The vehicles were crammed with strollers, coolers, suitcases, food, and excited children peering out the rear windows.

We arrived at the airport in time to share one more lunch. So many times this summer we enjoyed our meals together -- in the kitchen, at a local restaurant, on our back screened porch, or sitting side by side on the swing on the front pizer. Needless to say, I hated to see Lou Ann leave, and she shed more than a few tears. We consoled ourselves with plans for visits in September, October, Thanksgiving, and Christmas.

Back home the house was still and quiet. But Lou Ann will be back. She left her antique bed quilt, her red teapot, her bubblegum toothpaste on the bathroom shelf....all reminders of a wonderful, magical Ocracoke summer. I miss her.

[Our current monthly Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the Old Toothbrush Man, published August 01, 2005. You can read it here: http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/news080105.htm.]

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Early Morning Sunrise on the Pamlico Sound....

I do love early morning...watching the sky turn from the deepest shade of ebony darkness to the aurora of day.

Yesterday morning was just one of those splendid mornings. Nina (from the Lightkeeper's House and kayak guide) took three of us out on an early morning kayak tour into the Sound.

I balanced my early morning coffee on the handle bars of my bike into the dark village. Grey dawn greeted us as we pushed off the shore. As the sun poured over the horizon, we were pushing towards Teach's Hole and the marshy inlets. We were not disappointed. Quiet, hushed silence was our conversation as we watched egrets and herons and kingfishers.

By the time we returned, the sun was high and the village was bustling with the morning.
It was a wonderful way to end my summer adventure.

I will be leaving for Indiana in the morning. I arrived on June 1st, and these golden days of summer have fled by. My mind is etched with memories..snapshots in thoughts and sights and sounds.

Thank you for letting me share my summer with you...for visiting at the Village Craftsmen.

Until we meet again, I wish you sand in your sneakers, sunrises on quiet oceans, and a summer's worth of stories to remember.

Lou Ann

[Our current monthly Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the Old Toothbrush Man, published August 01, 2005. You can read it here: http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/news080105.htm.]

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Newsletter

It's that time again. We've published another monthly newsletter. This month I share the story of the old toothbrush man who traveled to Ocracoke years ago. The story was told to me by my cousin Blanche. I am recording as many of these old tales as possible before they are lost. To read the story just click on the link below. I hope you enjoy it.

[Our current monthly Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the Old Toothbrush Man, published August 01, 2005. You can read it here: http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/news080105.htm.]

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Birthdays, Pot Lucks, and a Little Square Dancin'

Today is Philip's Birthday! (That is one of the reasons I am writing the blog; he probably wouldn't tell you!) He shares his birthday with his sweet Grandson, Lachlan, who turns one on this day.

In celebration of their birthdays (and all the others of July* and August), we hosted the first pot luck to be held at Miss Aliph's. The house was bursting with friends and family from the back porch to the parlor to the front pizer. The kitchen was filled with traditional Ocracoke fig cake, carrot cake, pineapple casserole, and every other pot luck food imaginable! Every inch of the kitchen was filled! Baby Lachlan was treated to his first cream puff (baked by his Mama) as we all watched him smash it up with fists. (A few bites did eventually reach his mouth!)

After much feasting and conversation, we all gathered in the parlor for music provided by David, Marcy, and Lou. They brought out their madolins, guitars, and fiddles. We all clapped and cheered during "Paddy's Holler." A hush fell over captive friends and family as David began singing "Howard Street." As I looked around the parlor, I could see couples sitting closer, children grew quiet....time was suspended for a short time.

A few folks stayed late into the evening as we moved the furniture to one side of the back porch and decided to have a square dance. Philip called the dance...the musicians played and we all danced and laughed, barefoot, of course.

It was a wonderful night.

Friends. Family. Pot Luck Supper. Birhdays. Music. Dancing. Fig Cake. Laughter.

Happy Birthday, Philip.

Lou Ann

* A comment from Philip: July 22 was Lou Ann's birthday, so this was a party for her also.

[Our current monthly Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the Old Toothbrush Man, published August 01, 2005. You can read it here: http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/news080105.htm.]
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Rain

Puddles (some small, others quite large) are standing in roads and yards. Water droplets are clinging to leaves and branches. Fences and gravestones on Howard Street are glistening. The sky is gray and the day is quiet --almost somber. People are slow to be out and about. It's the perfect day to stay indoors, curled up on the sofa with a good book.

(A note to Bob -- The answer to your question about William Howard's children is posted with yesterday's journal entry.)

[Our current monthly Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of Kunigunde Guth Howard, published June 30, 2005. You can read it here: http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/news061505.htm.]

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246 Years Ago...

...on this date, William Howard, Sr. bought Ocracoke Island. The year was 1759. There is some uncertainty about exactly what he purchased. Inlets have come and gone over the years, and strong evidence suggests that the area where the village is now located was at that time a separate "inside island" not connected to the "sandy banks." A shallow body of water lay approximately where the Variety Store now stands.

Presumably William Howard, fourth colonial owner of Ocracoke and the first owner to make his home here, was already living on the "inside island" in 1759 (maybe as early as 1730) and may have owned that portion of Ocracoke where the village lies. Some evidence suggests that he had married into the family of Richard Sanderson, Sr. and Richard Sanderson, Jr. (third & fourth colonial owners). He may have inherited or been given his land by his in-laws. Perhaps his purchase in 1759 was of the rest of the "island," the sandy banks between Ocracoke Inlet and the next inlet (which was situated about 8 miles north at that time).

Evidence is mounting to indicate that William Howard of Ocracoke may well have been the same William Howard who served as Blackbeard's quartermaster in 1718. (Ocracoke has quite a colorful history!) At any rate, today is the anniversary of his purchase. Most of the known history of the village begins on this date 246 years ago. If only we could see now what it looked like then.

[Our current monthly Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of Kunigunde Guth Howard, published June 30, 2005. You can read it here: http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/news061505.htm.]

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Dinner with Friends

Yesterday evening Nina & Cy, park service volunteers, invited Lou Ann and me to their home for dinner. For several months they will be living on the lighthouse grounds in the lightkeeper's quarters.

Built in 1823, the keeper's quarters and the lighthouse are the oldest structures on the island. We marveled at the house's thick brick walls and reflected on the lives of its many residents. We walked outside and compared the structure today to photos from the mid 1800's. (Major additions and renovations were made in 1897 & 1929.)

Originally whale oil was used to fuel 15 lamps in the tower's reflector apparatus. A fourth order Fresnel lens replaced the reflector system in 1854. Lard oil and kerosene were used later. The light was elecrified in 1929. Today the light from a 250 watt halogen bulb (about the size of your little finger) is magnified by the Fresnel lens and is visible fourteen miles to sea.

After a delicious dinner we perused old photos, including one of my great-great-uncle, Enoch Ellis Howard, who was keeper of the lighthouse from 1862 until his death in 1897. We pondered the many facets of his job (tending to the lamp every evening and morning, whitewashing the tower, cleaning the lens and lantern windows, building walkways and fences, and maintaining the grounds and buildings).

Back home Lou Ann and I reflected on the many meals Enoch Ellis Howard and the other keepers and their families had enjoyed together in that house. We wondered what stories they shared and what storms they lived through. We fell asleep feeling privileged to have shared dinner with new friends and with the spirits of others who had discharged their duty in the lighthouse service so many years ago.

[Our current monthly Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of Kunigunde Guth Howard, published June 30, 2005. You can read it here: http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/news061505.htm.]

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Hot Dog Sale

The Methodist Church held a hot dog sale at noon yesterday. It may not sound very exciting, but it's one more opportunity to get out and visit with the neighbors.

This week, like so many others, has been full of fun activities. Sunday evening Lou Ann & I went to the Jolly Roger to listen to local guitarist Martin Garrish & friends. Monday we babysat Lachlan and went out for a stroll and visiting. Visiting is almost a lost art in today's society, but you might want to try it. It is quite rewarding.

Tuesday night Amy & I both had a ghost and history walk. Last night we went with cousin Blanche to the Ocrafolk Opry at Deepwater Theater. The music and storytelling were simply fabulous.

This evening Lou Ann & I have been invited to have dinner with the park volunteers at the lighthouse keeper's quarters. It's been years since I've been in the house (it was built in 1823). Tomorrow night I will have another ghost & history walk, and Lou Ann will be at a rental cottage for an evening of ghost tales.

Maybe we'll stay home on Saturday and play cribbage!

[Our current monthly Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of Kunigunde Guth Howard, published June 30, 2005. You can read it here: http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/news061505.htm.]

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We knew you wanted to know...

The major conversation this week has been the heat. Not politics, not religion, not even skinny dipping in the creek...but the word HOT, HOT, HOT.

I have heard about the heat closing the Denver airport...baked folks in Chicago...and I can't even talk about Phoenix without holding a lemonade.

And yes, it arrived here yesterday. How hot is it? So hot that the water is bath water warm. So hot that folks are shopping just for the air conditioning. (How much would you charge me to stand over this air duct?) So hot that I actually had to put on my flip flops when walking home to lunch because of the heat on the sandy path.

But never fear. there's plenty of beach for all of you, ice cream and cold bear cooling in tubs. If you are desperate though, I'll let you stand over the air duct as a trade for some good conversation. The topic? The heat, of course!

Lou Ann

[Our current monthly Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of Kunigunde Guth Howard, published June 30, 2005. You can read it here: http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/news061505.htm.]

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Portsmouth....An After Thought..

It has already been two days since our journey into the Sound for clamming and exploring.

The clamming was just wonderful as we all jumped out of the boat one at a time. The men went first (why was that???) The female cast of the party waited to make sure that was where we were staying for the morning.

The water was warm and calm...perfect for sloshing and pushing. We filled our limit, climbed into the back of the boat, and shared Nabs and bottled water. I think it was Philip who suggested we take a quick trip over to Portsmouth Island. I had never made that journey, although I have heard the stories (beauty and mosquitos all in one!)

The wind was from the Northeast and much to our delight, it was free of flying pests.
The beauty was stunning. We walked from house to church to the lifekeeper's station and then back again. There were moments I just had to stop and think about their lives. I could only imagine the community that held them together. I could see gardens and quilts on lines and chickens in the yards.

Strolling back down the lane towards our boat, I stopped and turned. It was awe-inspiring to step back in time.....at least for an hour or two.

Lou Ann

[Our current monthly Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of Kunigunde Guth Howard, published June 30, 2005. You can read it here: http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/news061505.htm.]

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Sunday Morning Boating

What a great day! Lou Ann and I joined friends this morning for an excursion out into Pamlico Sound. We were on a quest for clams. We loaded the rakes & the baskets, along with nabs (peanut butter crackers for you yankees) and cold drinks into the boat and headed out about 9:30.

We found a terrific location near Portsmouth Island and soon had our limit of 200 clams. The day was gorgeous -- a picture postcard sky with puffy white clouds on the horizon, aqua green water, and a light breeze.

We had plenty of time so we motored over to the dock at haulover point and walked into Portsmouth village. The breeze was brisk so we enjoyed the stroll bug-free until we stopped and stood still in the lee of the historic homes. We visited the post office, the Salter home, the Methodist church, and the Coast Guard station. The view from the cupola was simply spectacular. Egrets were wading in the marsh, gulls were gliding on updrafts, fishermen were out in their open skiffs, and the Ocracoke lighthouse was standing tall across the inlet.

The only other soul we saw was a park service volunteer. (Yesterday, she assured us, was a buggy nightmare. Recent rains and no breeze meant full body mosquito netting for any outdoor activity.)

Lou Ann & I ambled down the sandy lane to Henry Pigot's home, a doll-sized yellow cottage with front and side porches, a low white picket fence, and even a screen house in the back yard. (A screen house is a small screened in enclosure on a post that was used to store meat, eggs, and milk before the advent of electricity and refrigeration.)

We walked quietly through this ghost village, often reflecting on life so many years ago on this fragile, isolated island. Lou Ann had never been to Portsmouth before. Maybe she will want to share some of her thoughts, as a first-time visitor, tomorrow.

[Our current monthly Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of Kunigunde Guth Howard, published June 30, 2005. You can read it here: http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/news061505.htm.]

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Quilts and Stories......

It was a lazy Saturday morning. You know the kind that I mean..... an extra cup of coffee on the pizer, a little reading, and time to watch the sleepy village wake up. I was deep into my book when Dale Mutro came bounding up the front steps carrying a large bag. Dale's smile and stories are contagious...I knew he had something wonderful to show me.

He reached into the bag and drew out a handmade quilt. We took it inside to the front parlor so I could get a better look and keep it from sand and sun.

The quilt was hand-stitched. The material had come from Dale's Granny. She passed away last fall and Dale took all of her "shifts" to Agnes Wren to be made into a quilt.

"I remember every one of these patches," he said, "I washed all of her clothes." Dale cared for his Granny in ways that we only read about in books.

He stood in the front parlor in the early morning shadows...holding his quilt, his treasure.

Dale owns more than a quilt. He owns memories and stories.

Lou Ann

[Our current monthly Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of Kunigunde Guth Howard, published June 30, 2005. You can read it here: http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/news061505.htm.]

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Champagne, Oreos, and Birthdays....

This third week of July I share my birthday with three island women; Marcy Brenner, Karen Lovejoy, and Sundae Horn. The four of us really do love our birthdays. Sundae made us all lovely crowns of roses that we have been wearing all over the island this week.

Each of us has celebrated in wonderful Ocracoke fashion. Karen was treated to a surprise community pot luck supper ( at her own house!) Sundae wanted champagne and oreo cookies on the beach after the Opry this week. It was great fun dunking our cookies into the champagne as we listened to the roar of the ocean and the rising of the full moon. I have yet to hear of Marcy's plans, but it will be as eventful.

I chose the morning sunrise. So this morning at 4:30 Philip and I headed out to the beach. (Yes, we were a bit early!) The full moon was hanging in the Western sky as we walked on the shoreline. We climbed up into the lifeguard's chair to watch daybreak. Both of us lost in our own thoughts. Philip was thinking about ancient sun gods, while I thought of Emily Dickinson, "I'll tell you how the sun rose, a ribbon at a time....."

The sun rose as a suspended tangerine in the sapphire morning sky as the moon set in the West. We just watched East to West...West to East. We were spellbound by the vast beauty. We finally climbed down and headed off to the Pony Island Restaurant for breakfast.

And, yes, I worked all day at the shop with my crown on, of course!

Lou Ann

[Our current monthly Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of Kunigunde Guth Howard, published June 30, 2005. You can read it here: http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/news061505.htm.]

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Fourth Grade Writing Assignment

Michael Good is a rising fifth grader who lives in southern Virginia, and Ocracoke is one of his favorite places to visit. In May he wrote the following essay for his writing class. The simple pleasures Ocracoke has to offer obviously continue to appeal to people of all ages.

"Ocracoke Island is a special place. My family goes there every summer.

I smell the fresh salty air mixed with smelly fish. I can also smell awesome seafood being grilled, smoked, fried, and broiled.

I can see many things like huge waves, tan sand, colorful umbrellas and chairs, and brown trees. I also see gray dolphins jumping, bright colored shells, and white sand dollars.

I can hear waves crashing, bees buzzing, birds calling and people talking.

What I can taste is creamy clam chowder, tasty pizza, hot shrimp, great crab legs, and salty fish.

What I can touch is warm water, rough sand, pointy grass, and splintery trees. I can also feel smooth shells and cold sand dollars.

This is why I like Ocracoke Island."

[Our current monthly Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of Kunigunde Guth Howard, published June 30, 2005. You can read it here: http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/news061505.htm.]

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A Frog in the Teacher's Desk Drawer

Standing in line at the bank this morning several of us were talking about Ocracokers and the pranks they like to play on each other. Kay said she couldn't remember if it was Ronnie Van or James Barrie (it happened about 50 years ago), but one of them hid a frog in Mrs. Rondthaler's desk drawer. It frightened her so bad when it jumped out of the drawer that she lost her composure and ran home. Kay was still laughing about it after all these years.

Mr. Rondthaler (he was the principal) made the entire class walk down to their home and apologize.

"Mrs. Rondthaler forgave y'all, didn't she?" I asked Kay.

"Of course," she said. "She even treated us with candy."

Perhaps schoolchildren (even on Ocracoke) no longer hide frogs in teachers' desks, but at least here the stories still live on and the perpetrators are remembered & can be called by name. Let's hope that innocent play continues and that teachers & students know each other well enough that practical jokes can be forgiven and long-term friendships can develop across generations.


[Our current monthly Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of Kunigunde Guth Howard, published June 30, 2005. You can read it here: http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/news061505.htm.]

Scarlet Sunset over Pamlico Sound

Sometimes you just want time to stand still...sigh. Last night we met friends at the Jolly Roger for fresh fish sandwiches (the catch of the day) and cold beer. Martin and friends entertained us with bluegrass, folk, and some old time tunes. As the evening progressed, our group grew larger spilling our chairs into the aisles and walkway.

The Windfall made her appearance on the horizon as the scarlet sun sank into the evening sky.

When the guitars were packed away, we meandered back home down Howard Street. It was, indeed, a perfect island day.

Lou Ann

[Our current monthly Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of Kunigunde Guth Howard, published June 30, 2005. You can read it here: http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/news061505.htm.]

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Perfect Water

The beach today was simply gorgeous. Blue-green water; warm sun; large, gentle waves. Lou Ann & I took Lachlan this morning, but he was too tired to really enjoy himself. He walked into the shallows and a wave knocked him off balance. Mostly he just wanted to be held.

So we took turns swimming out beyond the breakers, where the water was chest to chin deep. We floated, swam, dove under a few waves, and let the salt water relax our sore muscles.

Friends are visiting the island this week, so we'll invite them over to sit on our front porch this afternoon, and then we'll walk or bike down to the harbor to listen to island guitarist Martin Garrish & friends.

Not a bad way to spend a hot July Sunday.

[Our current monthly Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of Kunigunde Guth Howard, published June 30, 2005. You can read it here: http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/news061505.htm.]

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Clam Rakes & Email

As you might expect, readers send us emails now and then about our journal entries. We always respond if the email includes a question or request -- unless we can't, and that happens sometimes. For some reason the occasional email message we receive does not include a "from" email address when it gets forwarded to my personal account. I had such an email recently. It read:

"Enjoy reading your daily journal and especially enjoyed the article on clamming and clam rakes. Do you sell clam rakes and baskets at your store? If not, where can I purchase this equipment? Thank you. John"

Because I don't have his email address I can't reply directly to John. So I am responding here in our daily journal:

John, thanks for the kind words. Clamming is a great island summertime activity. It's wonderful to be out on the water much of the day, and you come home with dinner! But we do not sell clam rakes and baskets. My cousin made my rakes (he's a welder). But he doesn't have a business or email. I suspect that you can purchase rakes and baskets (actually, for a basket all you really need is a wire or plastic basket with a couple of floats tied to the rim) at one of the island tackle shops. Just check around on your next visit to the island.

Oh yeah....John, it would be nice if you would add a comment here if you've read my on-line reply. We really do want to know that you've received your answer. And thanks for writing.

[Our current monthly Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of Kunigunde Guth Howard, published June 30, 2005. You can read it here: http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/news061505.htm.]

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Sam Jones

Sam Jones was a wealthy industrialist from Swan Quarter, NC who married Ocracoke native Ruth Kelly. Sam always had a warm spot in his heart for the island. He made major contributions to the island churches, to the fire & rescue squad, to help care for the Ocracoke ponies, and to various families and individuals in need.

Sam was eccentric however. The large homes he built (including what are now known as the Castle Bed & Breakfast and Berkeley Manor) were constructed with local labor and without formal blueprints. Sam often stood by and ordered changes as the carpenters worked. Today, the buildings have had some remodeling, but they still retain evidence of Sam's character. Dormer windows look directly into adjacent dormer windows, the roof line is oddly asymetrical, and the step risers are, for most people, uncomfortably short.

I was honored yesterday to be invited to an afternoon get-together at the Flying Melon Cafe hosted by Sam's son, Charlie (Charlie and I are 3rd cousins). Charlie commented that his father was such a colorful character that someone really should write his story. He was known to have his pilot fly him to the island in the middle of the night just for a haircut. He might unexpectedly pay a neighbor's grocery bill at the Community Store. One time he flew to the island with brand new dresses for all the women in the church choirs. He even chose time in jail rather than pay taxes he felt were unjust.

After our meal yesterday Roy Parsons entertained us with his music (Roy had worked for Sam for many years), and we shared stories of Sam and Ocracoke. Charlie remembered with a smile the time his daddy rode his palamino horse into their living room. (Charlie's mama was not always so pleased with Sam's antics.)

Many thanks to Charlie and his family for including us in a celebration of his family's connection with Ocracoke.

[Our current monthly Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of Kunigunde Guth Howard, published June 30, 2005. You can read it here: http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/news061505.htm.]

Lush Green

I suppose it's the outer fringes of tropical storm Dennis. Today the sky is gray and somber. The trees are heavy with condensation and rain. Walking down Howard Street it feels like some remote village in a distant tropical rain forest. Birds call gently from trees nearby. The world around us is mostly quiet, but lush and alive, just waiting to spring forth with the first rays of sunshine.


[Our current monthly Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of Kunigunde Guth Howard, published June 30, 2005. You can read it here: http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/news061505.htm.]

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Raining Clam & Oyster Shells

Rain
Dark rain
Heavy dark rain
Ghost story dark rain
Ominous ghost story dark rain
Turbulent, ominous ghost story dark rain
Slashing, turbulent, ominous ghost story dark rain

We knew it was coming, the air was heavy and sultry. By early morning the power had gone out (forget the hot showers and coffee)……We do need the rain, however. My garden was wilting under the hot summer heat, and the sand was hot even to seasoned bare feet.

With the power restored, we made coffee, opened up the shop and made this quick note to all of you to let you know we are still alive and well.. (The internet has been fragile the past couple of days so no blog!)

So here I sit in the Village Craftsmen, peering through windows that are as dark as night, listening to the rain on the rootop, waiting for a sopping wet tourist to come through the door so we can chat about the weather, of course.

If the power goes out again (which it will)...we'll light a candle just for you!

Lou Ann

[Our current monthly Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of Kunigunde Guth Howard, published June 30, 2005. You can read it here: http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/news061505.htm.]

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Clam Rakes

Al came to borrow the clam rakes this morning. He could only find two rakes. Dave had borrowed the other three a few days ago. I guess he didn't bring them back. But Al knows where to go find them.

In case you've never been clamming, the rakes are similar to garden rakes -- but different. The handles are long and light (mine are hollow aluminum tubes). The last foot and a half is wood (so the end of the handle floats if you let go of the rake). Years ago the tines were fashioned from round stock, curved and pointed. Today the best rakes (like mine) are made with stainless steel kitchen knife blades instead of round metal tines. Where the tines attach to the handle there is metal mesh, sort of a shallow "basket."

Clamming is best done in shallow water, just ankle to knee deep. In cold weather clams burrow deep into the sandy bottom. In the warmer summer months they move closer to the sea floor. By pushing the rake across the bottom you can feel a gentle "clunk" when the tines scrape across a clam. Then it's just a simple matter to dig the points into the sand and pull back. This will snag the clam and capture it in the "basket." Rakes with knife blades are so much easier to push across the sandy bottom because the thin blades offer so little resistance.

Usually the clammer will pull a floating basket behind him. After an hour or so the basket will be full. The best part of clamming is feasting on the bounty gathered. Clam chowder, clams casino, steamed clams, or just plain raw clams. They're all delectable and a fitting reward for a day's labor.


[Our current monthly Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of Kunigunde Guth Howard, published June 30, 2005. You can read it here: http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/news061505.htm.]

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Cream Puffs & Stories

My daughter Amy called last night. She & two off-island friends wanted to come by about 9:30 with cream puffs they had made. We sat around the dining room table, our fingers sticky with chocolate and cream filling, sharing island stories.

I think the one that captivated them most was about the tragic death some years back of an Ocracoke resident, Dave, who loved a good story. In an unfortunate accident he drowned at the South Point. His girlfriend/partner had planned for a flotilla of boats to go out into the sound after the funeral to scatter his ashes.

Sometime during the post-funeral meal one or both of Dave's two ex-wives (I can't remember all of the details), who had come to the island to bid him farewell, decided to "take matters into their own hands," literally. They surreptitiously gathered up Dave's ashes and absconded with them. To my knowledge, the ashes were never recovered.

Perhaps Dave didn't get to mingle with his beloved salt water, but at least Ocracokers got one more story to share, and Dave is definitely a part of that.

[Our current monthly Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of Kunigunde Guth Howard, published June 30, 2005. You can read it here: http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/news061505.htm.]

Annie Moore's House

Thursday is our babysitting day. We take Lachlan at 3:30 in the afternoon and keep him until his mama comes for him after her evening waitressing shift at the Back Porch Restaurant.

We like to take him for a late afternoon stroll to visit friends and neighbors. Yesterday we stopped by the Secret Garden Gallery to say hello to owners Barbara Hardy & Bob Ray. Watercolor artist Ed Starnes and his wife Rae were on hand to greet visitors who were there to view a selection of Ed's wonderful scenes of Howard Street, Silver Lake, & the Ocracoke Lighthouse, among others.

We then pushed Lachlan's stroller down lighthouse road to Annie Moore's house. Annie Moore died some years ago and an island friend and neighbor is the the process of purchasing the house. It is a typical Outer Banks "story and a jump" house, about 100 years old and very similar to my grandparents' home, which I recently restored.

We sat on the back steps and let Laschlan plan in the grass and sand. Directly across the marsh stands the stately white Ocracoke lighthouse. The view is outstanding, perhaps the very best unobstructed view of the light. We could only image what it would be like after sunset when the light comes on.

Maybe we'll be invited down there for an evening potluck dinner sometime!

[Our current monthly Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of Kunigunde Guth Howard, published June 30, 2005. You can read it here: http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/news061505.htm.]

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The Advantages & Disadvantages of No TV

Every now & then I will watch the evening news in my rental cottage (generally in the winter months). Occasionally the newscaster will begin a story with these words: "Unless you have been living in a cave this last month you are aware that...."

I guess I have been living in a metaphorical cave. Only yesterday did I learn about Tropical Depression Cindy and Hurricane Dennis. Ocracokers usually follow tropical weather reports, so I suppose I really should pay closer attention.

On the other hand, I am able to blissfully pass most days working at the Village Craftsmen, sipping a late afternoon gin & tonic on my front porch, playing cribbage in the evening, entertaining my grandson Lachlan, or taking a cool dip in the ocean (the water was delightful today). Maybe I am not the best informed citizen, but I hope I provide some balance to a fast-paced, hectic lifestyle that all too often neglects life's simple joys and pleasures. At any rate, it suits me.

[Our current monthly Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of Kunigunde Guth Howard, published June 30, 2005. You can read it here: http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/news061505.htm.]

Mad Mag Howard and her Entourage...

The legend of Mad Mag Howard lives on thanks to the hot, sweaty team of performers who braved the summer heat and shared the story from the back of a pick up truck in yesterday's Fourth of July parade.

Mad Mag Howard was kidnapped from her family in Maine by John Simon Howard (we all have those characters in our past!) and brought to Ocracoke Island in the late 1800's. By the 1920's she was known as an eccentric all around the island...the stories say that once she cut off her toe, branded her forehead with her iron, and cooked the family cat for her husband one night for supper! After her death the legend continues as folks here say they see her meandering around the Howard Street cemeteries!

Our float depicted the kitchen scene with Mad Mag dressed in purple and red clothing...foot bandaged and proped up on the stove with her long black hair adorned with shells and mini skulls! (That was my part!) Philip played the chagrined John Simon picking the cooked cat up out of the chamber pot. Jim Fineman, our houseguest and extraordinary potter, worked the crowd passing out Mad Mag dollars with the story printed on the back. Dave Frum drove the truck keeping all of us stable on the back...and Fiddler Dave Tweedie played the song, Paddy's Hollar, which features a verse of Mad Mag on his fiddle from the tailgate of the truck.

It was a great way to spend the afternoon...waving to friends and tourists and sharing the long-time story of Mad Mag. Oh, and just for your information, we won second place in the float division receiving a check for $150.00. We used the money to buy fresh shrimp for all the families who participated.

As darkness fell we all made our way to the Windfall for fireworks and a cake of red, white, and blue. The evening closed as we all joined in to sing the Star Spangled Banner..then rode our bikes home down sandy dark lanes...all the while looking for the ghost of Mad Mag Howard.

Lou Ann

[Our current monthly Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of Kunigunde Guth Howard, published June 30, 2005. You can read it here: http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/news061505.htm.]

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Happy Independence Day!

Ocracoke is ready for yet another July 4th celebration. Quite a lot will be going on this year, including:

Flag Raising Ceremony at the school,
29th Annual Sand Sculpture Contest (the entries are always creative, artistically outstanding, & loads of fun),
Pony Pen (behind the Museum -- not quite the annual pony penning of years past, but a treat just the same),
Lighthouse Open (stand in the base and learn some island history),
Sky Diving Demonstration,
"Blackbeard" tells pirate stories,
Old Time Ocracoke Parade (home-made, fun, and creative floats),
Fireworks at 9 pm.

We will have a float in the parade this year. We spent several hours yesterday putting things together for our entry -- Mad Mag Howard and her eccentric ways. If we get any good photos we'll publish them in the days ahead.

All of us at Village Craftsmen wish you a great day wherever you may be.


[Our current monthly Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of Kunigunde Guth Howard, published June 30, 2005. You can read it here: http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/news061505.htm.]

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Our Latest Newsletter

We have just published our latest Ocracoke Newsletter, the story of Kunigunde Guth Howard. You can read it here: http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/news061505.htm.

If you are accustomed to receiving our email notification when we publish a new Newsletter you may not get one this month. We have been having a number of frustrating internet & email issues.

Our local provider, Beachlink, discontinued wireless service several months ago so we subscribed to Sprint DSL which includes Earthlink email services. Because we use bulk mailing software to send the email notifications Earthlink automatically considers them unsolicited and blocks them.

Beginning today we will include a note at the bottom of each daily journal entry to let you know about the current Newsletter. That way you will always know about the Newsletter, even if you only log on to this journal occasionally.

[Our current monthly Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of Kunigunde Guth Howard, published June 30, 2005. You can read it here: http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/news061505.htm.]

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A Day on the Sound

Sometimes it's difficult to find time to write a daily journal entry. Take yesterday, for example. After a leisurely breakfast with our friend Clay, Lou Ann & I borrowed a cousin's kayak (Clay had brought his own; I suppose I should purchase my own too). We put in at one of the island creeks and paddled out into the sound. Immediately we left the world of motor vehicles and all that they represent.

We were surrounded by water, marsh, blue sky, and wading birds. The water is shallow on the "back side" of the island so we were fortunate to observe a number of turtles swimming near our kayaks. There were also herons, egrets, & jumping mullets.....as well as hermit crabs crawling among the eel grass.

We found several derelict crab pot buoys that had washed up into the marsh. We loaded them onto our kayaks and carried them back to hang up on our outbuilding.

We barely had time to grab a bite to eat before 11 month old Lachlan was scheduled to come by for the rest of the afternoon and evening. We immediately set out to visit friends, including Ann (who is 95 years old) and Max (who is just 3 months old).

All in all, it was a busy day. So, if you don't hear from us for a day or two, it's probably because we're just having too much fun.

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