More Critters

This afternoon Lou Ann and I took Lachlan out to the sound for a swim. The water was warm and shallow. Sports fishermen were in their boats in the nearby channel, and gulls & terns & pelicans were gliding overhead, pausing momentarily to dive for a silvery fish.

On the way out we stopped to watch a toad hop off into the bushes, and a few mosquitoes and green head flies attacked us in the shady path. Out on the beach we stripped down to our swim suits and plunged into the water. Before long my foot found a small clunky seashell. I brought it up to discover a hermit crab hiding inside. Up on the sandy shore it stuck its legs and head out and crawled back into the water. I think Lou Ann was more fascinated than the little guy.

Lachlan cut his foot on an oyster shell (an island rite of passage, sure to be repeated), but continued to laugh and splash as gentle waves licked at his chin.

We'll be sure to go back regularly this summer.

Take a journey back in time with our latest Ocracoke Newsletter. You can capture some of the thrill of riding on the old mailboat Aleta by clicking here.

Clyde Critter

One annual participant in the Ocracfolk Festival is Clyde Jones from Bynum, NC. He creates "critters" from logs , stumps, and found objects, using just a chainsaw and a hammer. His critters are popular items wherever Clyde goes, but he never sells them. He gives them away to non-profits (who often sell or auction them as fund-raisers) and to individuals.

I am told that Baryshnikov heard about Clyde's critters and visited his modest home (which, by the way, is literally surrounded by hundreds and hundreds of critters). The famous dancer wanted to purchase one of Clyde's animals, but he refused. When someone took him aside and tried to explain how famous this person was Clyde responded by noting that he had no idea who this dancer Baryshnikov was, but that the dancer obviously knew who he was. So, Clyde concluded, he must be even more famous than the dancer.

In the end I think Clyde gave a critter to Baryshnikov's young son.

As a "thank you" for sponsoring Clyde at the festival he carried an alligator to my place. It seems to enjoy grazing in my front yard.



Take a journey back in time with our latest Ocracoke Newsletter. You can capture some of the thrill of riding on the old mailboat Aleta by clicking here.

Bread

Yesterday Lou Ann joined Tom Pahl at Donald Davis' kitchen to learn the art of Donald's delicious bread making. At several different times during the day (each lasting 5 - 15 minutes) Donald demonstrated and explained all of the details, from ingredients, rising, baking, & misting.

I was lucky enough to join them, along with Merle and Carol, on their last excursion. This was when the loaves, during their final rising, were slid into the hot oven and baked to a crispy, golden brown. While we waited, Donald poured a delightful red wine, and we chatted....about thirty minutes. Finally Donald plucked the bread from the oven and laid it on a cutting board. We took turns cutting slices and slathering them with creamy French butter.

Lou Ann and I agreed, as we rode home on our bikes, that this was an experience virtually impossible to explain to anyone else. A combination of learning, relaxing, camaraderie, fellowship, and good food & wine....you just had to be there, I guess.

Take a journey back in time with our latest Ocracoke Newsletter. You can capture some of the thrill of riding on the old mailboat Aleta by clicking here.

Catching Up

Over the past several weeks readers have posted a number of comments and questions, some of which I have not had time to answer (hard as it is to believe, we who live here on Ocracoke sometimes have busy lives -- it's a good busy, but busy nonetheless).

So here goes:

• "Some pictures of your son and family would be appreciated!" wrote one reader.
  

Many of you may have noticed that I don't take many photos. However, I will do my best to get a picture of my "mountain family" in July when they are all here on the island.

• Another reader wrote, "Please tell me that the fire dept will be selling those cool t-shirts through the summer. We won't get there til Labor Day, and I usually buy them for every one I know."
  

I don't know for sure, but I think the t-shirts are available at the Island Ragpicker. If not, they will surely know where to get them.

• Another question: "Philip, any word on how the Watermen's Association did in making their June 1st fund drive?"
  

According to the June issue of the Ocracoke Observer, "....Hyde County's Revolving Loan Fund committee stepped in and on May 7 the Hyde county commissioners voted to use its Revolving Loan Fund (RLF) to issue a short-term loan to the Ocracoke Fish House so that the Fish House would not be forced to shut down....while awaiting appropriation of funds from the General assembly this session, which would be available in the fall." For more information please visit the official web site of the Ocracoke Working Watermen's Association: http://www.ocracokewatermen.org/index.html. From their home page you can click on "Donate" or "Help Us Save Ocracoke's Last Fish House" to learn how you can help. The fishermen are also working on a new web site with information about retail sales. The site is still under construction, but you might want to bookmark it for future reference: http://www.ocracokeseafood.com/

• A personal note to reader, Marty Tennant the hammock man (some years ago he "worked" under the tree in front of the Slushy Stand selling and "demonstrating" hammocks):
  

Greetings from Ocracoke. Didn't know you were reading the journal. Stop by and say hello next time you are on the island.

• Most recently I had this comment and question: "I would love to see the Community Store reopened. Danny Garrish was my father-in-law's cousin, and we have many fond memories of him. Where could I inquire about future plans for the store?"
  

I don't have any new information at this time, but I understand that efforts are still ongoing to reopen the Community Store. As soon as I have any new information I will post it here.

Thanks to all of our readers for you questions and comments. We're happy to be one of your "links" to our favorite island.

Take a journey back in time with our latest Ocracoke Newsletter. You can capture some of the thrill of riding on the old mailboat Aleta by clicking here.

Gooder'n Ary Angel

This morning at 7:30 Bill Jones and Donald Davis entertained a group of islanders and visitors on the porch of the Community Store. Both gentlemen told stories about stores. It was an appropriate venue. The Community Store was established in 1918 and served the island for many, many years. Closed now for about two years, efforts to reopen the store continue. Whether or not we will again see folks shopping there for milk & eggs, checking the bulletin board about news & birthdays, and gathering for morning coffee I can't say. But we continue to hope that something can be worked out to get this island landmark reopened.

In her introduction for Donald, Merle remembered Danny Garrish, Community Store manager of many years ago and genuinely wonderful islander, who was often heard commenting to friends and neighbors, "Puck, you're gooder'n ary angel." The Community Store may not be open right now, but Danny's spirit lives on in the memories of all who knew and loved him. Danny, you're gooder'n ary angel!

Take a journey back in time with our latest Ocracoke Newsletter. You can capture some of the thrill of riding on the old mailboat Aleta by clicking here.

Wild Blackberry Dumplings

These last few days my daughter Amy has been bringing us small tubs of wild blackberries. We've been enjoying them with our breakfast cereal (covered with half & half!), and Lou Ann even baked a blackberry cobbler. But the most traditional island recipe for blackberries calls for baking them in balls of pie crust dough, then smothering them in egg sauce. Here is the Mable Gaskins' egg sauce recipe from the Ocracoke Volunteer Fire Department's cookbook, Hoi Toiders:

3 eggs at room temperature
1 cup of sugar
1 tablespoon of lemon extract (or sometimes 1 tablespoon of vanilla, 1 tablespoon of cinnamon and a little nutmeg)

Separate eggs. Beat the whites until stiff. Add sugar, a little at a time and beat well. Add egg yolks and lemon extract. Pour sauce over dumplings. Ready to eat! Yum, yum, delicious!

My Aunt Thelma (she's 94 years old) told me that her mama (my Grandmama Aliph) hosted the Ladies Missionary Society Meeting in her home many years ago. Aunt Thelma said one lady attended who "rubbed mama the wrong way." Grandmama Aliph had made blackberry dumplings with egg sauce, and this woman was at least gracious enough to compliment her by saying that she could "eat those dumplings till she died."

Generally a reserved woman, Grandmama Aliph couldn't hold her tongue. "I wish I'd made more of them, then," she said.

Take a journey back in time with our latest Ocracoke Newsletter. You can capture some of the thrill of riding on the old mailboat Aleta by clicking here.

Professional Clammer

Over the weekend Lou Ann was offered a rare experience. Morty Gaskill, Ocracoke Island's youngest commercial fisherman (he is 13 years old), asked Lou Ann to join him to gather clams on his clam beds. Out in Pamlico Sound in Morty's working skiff (Lou Ann got to sit on a cooler), they anchored several hundred yards from the beds and waded to their destination. On hands and knees in the shallow water they dug 500 clams in less than an hour to sell at the local fish market.

I am hoping Lou Ann will share the entire experience in a monthly newsletter later this summer. For now, just know that she had a fabulous time (Morty is knowledgeable not only about the day to day life of a fisherman, but also about state and national issues that impact commercial fishermen), and enjoy the photos below, from her day with a professional clammer. Morty insisted that Lou Ann take several dozen clams that we fixed for lunch today as "clams casino." Needless to say, they were super!

Nets at the Dock:



Two Boxes of Fresh Clams:



Just Out of the Oven:



Take a journey back in time with our latest Ocracoke Newsletter. You can capture some of the thrill of riding on the old mailboat Aleta by clicking here.

F.W. Abrams

Sonny Williamson has written a thorough account of virtually every shipwreck that has occurred on or near Ocracoke. Entitled Shipwrecks of Ocracoke Island he recounts the last days of the tanker F.W. Abrams on June 10, 1942.

"The F.W. Abrams departed the island of Aruba on June 2nd with over 90,000 barrels of fuel oil aboard, bound for New York City under the command of Captain Anthony Coumelis and a crew of 35. They arrived off Ocracoke around 6 p.m. on the 10th and were directed by the Coast Guard to anchor behind the protective mine field for the night. The following morning brought stormy and foggy weather. The Coast Guard cutter arrived to lead them out of the mine fields. Due to the limited visibility a white light was displayed on the stern of the cutter and Captain Coumelis was directed to follow at about 500 yards distance. At this distance it was difficult to keep the light in sight. They had temporarily lost sight of the cutter and unknowinly wandered off course. At 6:40 a.m. the ABRAMS suffered an explosion on the starboard bow. Full astern was ordered and by the time the vessel had come to a stop and a preliminary inspection made of the damage, what they believed to be an enemy submarine was sighted approaching them. An SOS was sent and Captain Courmelis ordered full ahead. Within a few minutes there was another explosion amidship. A boat was lowered and ordered to standby. The submarine was again sighted on the port side and within two minutes a third explosion occurred.

"The ABRAMS, already half sunk, began to go down fast and at 7:40 a.m. all hands had successfully abandoned ship in two lifeboats. The captain decided to attempt to reach shore and at about 1 p.m. they fetched up on Ocracoke beach and were taken to the Coast Guard Station. The entire crew had survived with only one injury.

"What actually happened was that the ABRAMS had accidently strayed into the protective mine field. The coast guard cutter hearing their SOS, returned to the scene only to be mistaken for an enemy submarine."


Take a journey back in time with our latest Ocracoke Newsletter. You can capture some of the thrill of riding on the old mailboat Aleta by clicking here.

Storytelling

Last night between 8 pm and 10 pm six participants in one of Donald Davis' annual storytelling workshops entertained a room full of people at Deepwater Theater on School Road. Stories (fanciful, heartwarming, and humorous) about boats, pickpockets, small town fire departments, and life passages kept the audience enthralled.

The storytelling workshop ended yesterday (and there is only one more this summer, the week after next) but there are plenty of other opportunities to enjoy music and storytelling on Ocracoke. Look for local talent at the Jolly Roger (Martin Garrish & Friends perform on Thursdays and Saturdays), the Pelican Restaurant, Mango Loco Restaurant, Howard's Pub, Deepwater Theater (Molasses Creek on Thursdays, the Opry on Wednesdays, Rumgagger Pirate Stories on Tuesdays & Fridays), and even at the Preservation Society Museum (check local bulletin boards for their schedule of porch talks).

Take a journey back in time with our latest Ocracoke Newsletter. You can capture some of the thrill of riding on the old mailboat Aleta by clicking here.

We All Knew It, Of Course....

....But Dr. Beach (Dr. Stephen Leatherman) made it official at 12:15 pm this afternoon. Ocracoke is the Number One Best Beach in the country. As most of our readers know, we have sixteen miles of undeveloped beach. No boardwalks, no hot dog stands, no cottages, no high rises. Ocracoke is the perfect place for that minimalist vacation. If you are reading this and are not familiar with Ocracoke be sure that you enjoy the simple pleasures, such as biking, swimming, kayaking, fishing, reading, and just plain relaxing, before deciding to make our island your vacation destination. If this is your kind of place, we welcome you. Stroll on down Howard Street and pay us a visit. You might even want to sit on the porch for a spell and soak in some island flavor.

You can read more from Dr. Beach here.

Take a journey back in time with our latest Ocracoke Newsletter. You can capture some of the thrill of riding on the old mailboat Aleta by clicking here.

Opry

Last night at 8 o'clock the Ocracoke Opry opened their 2007 season with music (Martin Garrish was there, of course, as were Molasses Creek, Rob & Sundae, Cynthia Mitchell, and Roy Parsons) and storytelling (Lou Ann told a tale about the female pirate Anne Bonney, and Donald Davis entertained the nearly full theater with an endearing story of his mother).

Everyone had a rousing good time as evidenced by their enthusiastic applause. The show was too soon over, but performers and audience alike walked into the theater yard afterwards to drink in the quiet night beauty that is Ocracoke village.

Join us for an Opry show any Wednesday night throughout the summer. You'll be glad you did.

Take a journey back in time with our latest Ocracoke Newsletter. You can capture some of the thrill of riding on the old mailboat Aleta by clicking here.

A Double-Edged Sword

On Friday of this week, from 6 a.m. until 11 a.m. Dr. Beach (Dr. Stephen Leatherman) will be on Ocracoke to announce his choice of the number one beach in the United States. His announcement will be broadcast across the country to various networks as he grants interviews near the lifeguard stand.

No one will say which beach will be Dr. Leatherman's number one choice, but the island is abuzz with anticipation. Of course, everyone "knows" what to expect. We only hope that his announcement makes it clear that Ocracoke is not your typical tourist beach. As most of our readers know, our beach is not cluttered with water slides, amusement rides, miniature golf, hot dog stands, and t-shirt shops (I suppose that's one reason we are often on Dr. Beach's list). We like positive recognition, but it is possible to have too much of a good thing. We don't want to be inundated with people, especially those who may come here looking for a beachfront cottage and be disappointed by sixteen miles of undeveloped beach.

So, welcome Dr. Beach, but please be gentle with us.

Take a journey back in time with our latest Ocracoke Newsletter. You can capture some of the thrill of riding on the old mailboat Aleta by clicking here.

Welcome Back Lou Ann

What a wonderful weekend of storytelling, art, fine crafts, and music. Howard Street and School Road were alive with activity as the Ocrafolk Festival participants enthralled us with their talents.

But the best part of the weekend was that Lou Ann arrived on Friday. She barely set her bags down before I took her to the pot luck dinner and auction. The next day she put together a presentation by local children on island history. I didn't get to see it, but it sure sounded like fun (it was island history presented through interpretive dance!).

We've been happily busy ever since -- visiting with my brother who came for the weekend, and with friends of Lou Ann from the Midwest, going out to dinner with Donald Davis' storytellers, and just sitting on the porch swing in the late afternoon enjoying the sunset (this may account for the lapse in a couple of journal entries recently).

Look for us both at the Village Craftsmen or around the corner at our house. Welcome back to the island, Lou Ann. It's so good to have you here.

Take a journey back in time with our latest Ocracoke Newsletter. You can capture some of the thrill of riding on the old mailboat Aleta by clicking here.

Festival

Music, storytelling, dance, good food....the Ocrafolk Festival has it all. Festivities began Friday evening with a huge (and I mean huge) pot luck dinner at the Community Center. The building was packed, and folks spilled out into the parking area where tables had been set up. After the meal the auction started. An hour and a half later the festival was almost $4500 richer, and participants went home with handmade pottery, jewelry, paintings, and a feeling of solidarity.

Yesterday was non-stop music and storytelling on both the Howard Street stage and the Live Oak stage (on School Road). Artisans and craftspeople had booths set up between the stages, and there was great energy and high spirits throughout the day.

This morning musicians and singers kicked off the day with a gospel sing. The school gymnasium was filled (rain was threatening so the festival organizers decided to move indoors) as lively songs and familiar hymns filled the room. The audience joined by singing and clapping and tapping their feet.

More activities are scheduled later this afternoon. If you missed this year's festival consider joining us next year (it's always the first full weekend in June). We'll save you a seat under the shade of the cedars and live oaks.

Take a journey back in time with our latest Ocracoke Newsletter. You can capture some of the thrill of riding on the old mailboat Aleta by clicking here.

At the Hardware Store

It is always good to be reminded that Ocracoke is a special community. Yesterday I stopped in the hardware store looking for a somewhat unusual faucet assembly. I sure was hoping they'd have it so I could have my sink operating again, but I wasn't too surprised to learn that our small hardware store didn't keep that item in stock. Holly offered to order it for me, of course. The earliest I could get it would be late next week, though.

As I was explaining what I needed, David Scott Esham, owner of the Pony Island Motel, overheard the conversation and told me he had a used faucet that I could have. I followed him to his motel, and sure enough, he had just what I needed.

It is nice to have good neighbors. This is what makes a stellar community. And Ocracoke is that. So I'll offer a little plug for David Scott and his business. On your next visit to Ocracoke consider booking a room at the Pony Island Motel....and tell David we sent you!

Take a journey back in time with our latest Ocracoke Newsletter. You can capture some of the thrill of riding on the old mailboat Aleta by clicking here.

Blue Moon

Tonight is this year's only Blue Moon.

I don't know about where you live, but on Ocracoke the sky was crystal clear last night and the nearly full moon shone down on the village, blanketing us all with its warm, comforting glow. Soft shadows fell from the cedars and live oaks as I walked home from visiting cousin Blanche. The lane was quiet, and my bare feet fell silently on the cool sand. It was good to feel at home.

Look for the Blue Moon tonight. You can read more about it here.

PS: Lou Ann arrives tomorrow! Look for her at the Friday night pot luck, and on Saturday during the Festival. It will be so nice to have her back on the island.

Take a journey back in time with our latest Ocracoke Newsletter. You can capture some of the thrill of riding on the old mailboat Aleta by clicking here.

More Bear Stories

On Monday reader Paul Dodd left a new comment on an earlier post "Bear on the Island":

"My family & I were starting our summer vacation(s) this weekend staying at the nps campground. My daughter`s boyfriend & another young fellow that came with us got up early Sunday for some fishing and while heading down to the bait shop.....they saw a bear run across the road from the beach side toward the sound.

"They were not sure at first what it was, but being from the western side of Chesapeake Va. we occasionally see one that has been flushed out of the woods because of some new housing development. [We were told that] there are no bears on the island, that it must have been a large rat! It was no rat. Anyway, anyone else seen it? Because it was a bear."

Well, I know we've had bears on the island before. It is certainly not common, though. Some of our readers may remember hearing stories several years ago about a bear that swam over to the island and was seen by a number of boaters and other folks. I'm even told it tried to climb into one unfortunate fellow's skiff! Just about a year ago a visitor alerted me to a bear carcass that she found on a remote section of our soundside beach. Sure enough, there it was.

I remember many times my father telling me that his father told of a traveling entertainer who came to Ocracoke more than a hundred years ago with a trained bear. He must have made quite an impression on islanders!

I was relating the latest story to friends when I discovered that one of our park rangers has seen this recent ursine visitor. Apparently the rangers have posted notices around the island so residents and visitors will be on the lookout.

If you see the bear stay out of his way. I'll bet he's hungry. And send us your story. We'll keep you updated.

Take a journey back in time with our latest Ocracoke Newsletter. You can capture some of the thrill of riding on the old mailboat Aleta by clicking here.

A Word of Caution

Late Sunday afternoon, about 6 o'clock, islanders were alarmed to hear sirens wailing. I had just come off the beach when I saw first the deputy's vehicle, next Park Service trucks, then the EMS pickup come screaming down Highway 12 with blue lights flashing. The Park Rangers stopped to pick up the lifeguards (they had just gotten off duty), then rushed up the beach. I could only think the worst.

Sadly, my fears were confirmed. Somewhere north of the campground a swimmer had been swept out to sea and drowned.

I had noticed rip currents forming. The lifeguards had even posted a sign near their stand to keep people safer. Unfortunately, rip currents can be deadly. And people (especially those not familiar with ocean swimming) often underestemate the power of the surf. Rip currents, in particular, can overpower even the strongest swimmer in an instant.

Please enjoy our beaches. They are among the best, cleanest, and most beautiful in the country. But learn how to recognize rip currents and how to escape from them (they are narrow and powerful, but swimming parallel with the beach will let you get out of their grip). And remember, the National Park Service provides lifeguards at the beach just north of the airstrip. Don't hesitate to use that beach.

Our sincere condolences to family and friends of the young man who lost his life on Ocracoke over the weekend.

-----------------------------------

Take a journey back in time with our latest Ocracoke Newsletter. You can capture some of the thrill of riding on the old mailboat Aleta by clicking here.

Fund Raiser

Saturday's fund raiser for the Ocracoke Volunteer Fire Department was a huge success. The pig pickin', auction, and dance drew a large, happy, and generous crowd. Barbeque was sold out soon after 6 pm. By 7 o'clock the Community Center was full as everyone filed in to bid on items donated by local businesses, artists, and craftspeople. Surfboards, bicycles, power saws, bird carvings, jewelry, t-shirts, and many more itmes were sold to the highest bidders. Together, the live and silent auctions raised $15,000.00. Soon after 8:30 the last "Sold" was called out.

By 9 o'clock the dance floor was filling up as the "Ocracoke Rockers" began playing. Later that evening the "Dune Dogs" from Raleigh added their contribution.

The Ocracoke Fire Department has recently launched an ambitious project to upgrade and improve their facilities, and to purchase new vehicles and equipment. Donations are always welcome. Checks may be made to the Ocracoke Fire Protection Association, and mailed to PO Box 332, Ocracoke, NC, 27960.

We thank all of our friends, both on island and off island, for your continued support of our island services.

Take a journey back in time with our latest Ocracoke Newsletter. You can capture some of the thrill of riding on the old mailboat Aleta by clicking here.

Busy Weekend?

Happy Memorial Day Weekend to all of our readers! There are a bunch of people on the island, and the weather is just about perfect (cloudless skies and temps in the mid-70s), but we're not too busy (at least not yet). I think most folks have decided to head to the beach (can't blame them for that).

This evening the Ocracoke Fire Department will be hosting a big community event -- Pig Picking, Auction, and Dance. If you are on the island be sure to come out and support the Ocracoke Fire Protection Association. There is sure to be a good time for everyone.

Take a journey back in time with our latest Ocracoke Newsletter. You can capture some of the thrill of riding on the old mailboat Aleta by clicking here.

Mailboat Aleta

It's that time again. We've just published our most recent Ocracoke Newsletter. This month I reprint a 1951 newspaper article about a trip to Ocracoke before ferries and before the state paved the roads. The article documents the wonderful adventure of crossing Pamlico Sound on the mailboat "Aleta."

Take a journey back in time with us and capture some of the thrill of visiting a place like none other in the world. You can read the newsletter here.

If any of our long-time visitors have stories about trips on the Aleta, we'd love to hear them. Just leave a comment, or send us an email.

New Ferry Schedules to Ocracoke

The North Carolina Ferry Division has made some changes to the summer Swan Quarter and Cedar Island ferry schedules.

Beginning today and lasting through the Labor Day weekend there will be four departures from both Swan Quarter on Mainland Hyde County and Ocracoke Island versus the two departures that are in effect the remainder of the year.

This year one extra ferry, which would nornally be assigned to the Cedar Island route, will be be assigned to the Swan Quarter route.

Margie Brooks, Executive Director for the Hyde County Chamber of Commerce explains that “the US 264 corridor is touted as the ‘alternate route to the Outer Banks’, and recent improvements to that highway means that travelers from the Raleigh area can be in Swan Quarter in less than three hours, and travel on a four-lane divided highway for all but 45 miles of the 160.”

Travelers are encouraged to call the NC Ferry Division for up-to-date schedules and for reservations.

The toll-free numbers for the ferry terminals are:

Cedar Island -- 800-856-0343
Swan Quarter -- 800-773-1094
Ocracoke Island -- 800-345-1665.

More information is available at http://www.ncferry.org/.

This month's newsletter discusses the planned replacement of the seven bridges on Ocracoke Island in early 2008, and explains some of the issues we will face. You can read it here.

Family

It has been so much fun having my son and some of his family on the island for a few days. Zoe is eleven years old and she has been helping me at Village Craftsmen. In less than an hour I was able to teach her how to "count back change." (How many college students can do that?) She has also been helping out by wrapping pottery, running errands, and sweeping the porch. I'll miss her when she goes back to the mountains.

As a special treat, Zoe and Lachlan and I biked down to Springer's Point and walked the trail out to the sound shore. We met Len, the caretaker, and two folks from the Coastal Land Trust. Lachlan and I trudged through the underbrush and marsh and briars to show them the grave of Daniel Tolson (Zoe stayed behind because she was not wearing long pants). After we got back Lachlan and Zoe explored the beach and built a small sand castle. In too short a time we headed back home for lunch.

Tonight we're all going out for a pot luck dinner with friends. Not only are Stefen, Snee, & Zoe here -- a major reason to celebrate. But today is also Amy's birthday. Happy Birthday, Amy! It's so wonderful to have you living next door (by the way, can I borrow a cup of sugar?).

This month's newsletter discusses the planned replacement of the seven bridges on Ocracoke Island in early 2008, and explains some of the issues we will face. You can read it here.

Cemetery Questions

Robert Howard. Born 1845; Died 1878. Buried on Howard Street, across from the Village Craftsmen. But why are there two markers, side by side, for the same Robert Howard?

Edgar Howard. Born 1904; Died 1990. A banjo, and the inscription, "You Ain't Heard Nothing Yet!" on his tombstone. Who was this musician? Did he really play vaudeville with Gene Autry & Al Jolson years ago?

Agnes Scott Garrish. Born 1898; Died 1919. Was she related to the namesake for Agnes Scott College in Georgia, and how did she come to be buried on Ocracoke?

Join cousin Blanche and me at the Ocrafolk Festival on Saturday, June 02 at 11:45 am on the Howard Street Stage for talk about these folks and other fascinating stories of Ocracoke Island and our many family cemeteries.

This month's newsletter discusses the planned replacement of the seven bridges on Ocracoke Island in early 2008, and explains some of the issues we will face. You can read it here.

A Near Perfect Day

The sun is shining. The temperature is in the mid to upper 70s. It is a wonderful day.

And I've finished several outstanding projects. I just installed a new, on-demand water heater at Village Craftsmen (it wasn't too hard to hook up, and it provides unlimited hot water), unclogged a stopped drain (the new, improved Liquid Plumber works like a charm), and I (with the help of Juana) did a thorough cleaning of my gypsy wagon. It feels good to strike things off a list!

But the best news is that my son, Stefen; his wife, Snee; and their oldest daughter, Zoe, will be on the island sometime this afternoon. They can only stay a couple of days (the whole family will be back in July), but it will be good to see them. We couldn't have ordered more perfect weather.

This month's newsletter discusses the planned replacement of the seven bridges on Ocracoke Island in early 2008, and explains some of the issues we will face. You can read it here.

Bones is Back

A couple of days ago a colorful character poked his head through the doorway, gave me a sinister look, and challenged me to a duel. Then he laughed heartily and gave me a bear hug. It was Bones the Pirate.

Bones lived on the island several years ago. Some of our readers will remember him. Sporting a thick beard, skull and crossbone earrings, a long ponytail, and a pirate costume, he sold t-shirts and entertained young and old alike at the Community Store Square.

I understand that this time around Bones the Pirate will be hanging out at Teach's Hole Pirate Shop on Highway 12. Look for him the next time you pass by that way. (Maybe he'll let me take his picture, and I'll post it on the Journal one of these days.)

This month's newsletter discusses the planned replacement of the seven bridges on Ocracoke Island in early 2008, and explains some of the issues we will face. You can read it here.

Dr. Moore

Ocracoke is delighted to have Dr. John Moore back at the clinic. John had served the island several years ago, but left to work on the mainland. In the meanwhile Ocracoke has been served well by Matt, our Physician's Assistant. However, Matt was not able to be here on the island every week. On Matt's "off weeks" residents were sent to Hatteras for medical care. I understand that John and Matt will be alternating weeks at the clinic.

Our family was relieved to know that the clinic was staffed last week when Lachlan tripped on a ramp, and a nail head tore through the skin between the first and second fingers on his right hand. He ended up with three stitches. John said he was a good patient, though Amy & David were troubled to hear his plaintive pleas ("Stop, you're hurting me. You have no reason to hurt me like this.")

The wound is healing well. I suppose it's only a matter of time before any little boy ends up with a major cut, scrape, or break. Thanks to all those at our clinic who serve residents and visitors year 'round!

This month's newsletter discusses the planned replacement of the seven bridges on Ocracoke Island in early 2008, and explains some of the issues we will face. You can read it here.

Evening Rain

A gentle, rejuvenating rain fell on Ocracoke overnight. Along with the rain came cloudy, overcast skies and cooler temperatures. For the past several weeks I have noticed all of the new growth -- fresh, yellow-green leaves sprouting on live oaks and yaupons, copious blankets of clover in yards, new buds here and there, and ripening peaches on the ends of once bare branches. With the rain will come more growth and the beginning of a summer filled with music, and friends, and boating, and business, and beach. The cycle of life continues, and it's good to be a part of it.

This month's newsletter discusses the planned replacement of the seven bridges on Ocracoke Island in early 2008, and explains some of the issues we will face. You can read it here.

Nerodia Sipedon

A couple of days ago I was walking down an island path with Lachlan when we spotted a large, heavy bodied snake about three feet long, maybe longer. He (or she) was already half concealed by a conglomeration of dead branches, vines, and leaves. As we approached, the snake began to slither further under cover and eventually disappeared.

We never did see the snake's head, but it's body was dark with thin amber bands about an inch or two apart. I am not a herpetologist, but after some searching I have determined that this was a Northern Water Snake (Nerodia sipedon), or more likely, a subspecies, the Carolina Water Snake. According to the Davidson College web site, this snake "inhabits brackish water, salt marshes, and fresh water along the Outer Banks." Although not poisonous (common knowledge suggests that there are no poisonous snakes on Ocracoke Island), this snake will bite when handled (we were not tempted).

You can read more about this snake, and see photos here:
http://www.bio.davidson.edu/projects/herpcons/herps_of_NC/snakes/Ner_sip.html

This month's newsletter discusses the planned replacement of the seven bridges on Ocracoke Island in early 2008, and explains some of the issues we will face. You can read it here.

Dentist & Styrofoam

I left the island yesterday morning for Nags Head. That's where my dentist is located. After a thorough cleaning and checkup I was happy to hear that everything was just fine. No cavities. Not even any suspicious looking areas. Just continue what I've been doing -- brushing and flossing regularly -- I was told.

I got back home earlier than I'd expected (even after running a couple of errands), so I took my walk on the beach. I hadn't been out to the beach for several days. I'd heard that a container of ceiling fans had tumbled off of a ship and broken open. The Styrofoam packing material broke apart and was scattered along Outer Banks beaches. I'd been told that quite a lot of Styrofoam was littering our beaches.

On the ferry ranger Kenny Ballance assured me that workers had been sent to the coast, including Ocracoke, to pick up the debris. Fishermen and other beachgoers have helped too. By the time I took my walk yesterday afternoon the beach was clean. No Styrofoam to be seen.

Too bad ceiling fans don't float.

This month's newsletter discusses the planned replacement of the seven bridges on Ocracoke Island in early 2008, and explains some of the issues we will face. You can read it here.

Work Attire

We're told that some mainland companies have initiated "Casual Fridays" when employees can dispense with neckties and business outfits, and are allowed to come to work in open collared shirts, khakis, and flat soled shoes.

On Ocracoke we have Casual Fridays, and Saturdays, and Sundays, and Mondays, and Tuesdays, and Wednesdays, and Thursdays.

And we're likely even more casual than the typical mainland enterprise. Note Dallie's sartorial expression, below, as she restocks our popular Andromeda soaps:



This month's newsletter discusses the planned replacement of the seven bridges on Ocracoke Island in early 2008, and explains some of the issues we will face. You can read it here.

Shell Pile

Just about every old island home had a shell pile. Out back by the shed, or in the side yard, the pile of clam shells grew year by year. Often there was a fish cleaning table nearby. Fish heads and such were buried in the garden. The ubiquitous island cats made short work of the remaining discards.

However, when it came time to open clams most of the shells were tossed to the side. Some were spread at the bases of fig trees. Others were put in the soft sand lanes. Over time the roads were hardened and fewer and fewer automobile drivers found themselves stuck in the sand. Nevertheless the shells in the yard accumulated. Some of the old deeds even identified property corners as where "so and so had his shell pile." Thankfully, the tradition continues. Here are photos of two shell piles, the first about thirty years old; the second much more recent.






A note about this month's newsletter: Astute reader, Warner Passanisi, pointed out that the link on the last several postings is inaccurate. I have made the changes and the link now works properly. I had wondered why we had not received any comments or questions about the bridge replacements scheduled for the first two and one half months of 2008. If you are thinking about making a trip to Ocracoke in early 2008 please read the newsletter carefully. You will need to use the Swan Quarter or Cedar Island ferries, or have a vehicle capable of driving on the beach. You can read the newsletter here.

Clams

"Where are the clam rakes?" Al yelled early one morning not long ago. I was still in bed, awake, but not quite ready to get up. The windows were open and a very gentle breeze was wafting across the room. "They're propped up against the out building," I called back. "Oh, no they're not. I put them inside the shed," I corrected myself. I could hear Al grumble and fuss out in the yard, but I knew it was just a show. I have five rakes. The clam rakes technically belong to me, but in reality they have become communal property. Other friends have one or two, so whenever anyone needs more we simply borrow from each other.

Al had friends visiting so he was preparing to take them out in the sound to do some clamming. I hadn't been yet, and secretly wished I was going also. But, truth be told, my day was already planned. I really didn't have time to go rake for clams.

Almost as good, however, when Al returned the rakes he brought with him a bucket of fresh clams. As O'cockers say, they were good some!

This month's newsletter discusses the planned replacement of the seven bridges on Ocracoke Island in early 2008, and explains some of the issues we will face. You can read it here.

Laundry

I'm told that there are housing developments where residents are forbidden to hang laundry out to dry. I've never lived in such a place, and I've never actually seen the written agreements, but I believe they exist. And I can't understand why.

Hanging clothes on a line saves money and energy. Laundry hanging out to dry is also a sure sign that real people live in a community. Furthermore, while you're out in the yard with clothes basket and pins at your side a neighbor might chance to stroll by. There's a fine opportunity to share news, find out what is going on in the neighborhood, or simply to smile and wave hello. At least that's the way it is here.

I'm happy to live where I can hang out my laundry.

This month's newsletter discusses the planned replacement of the seven bridges on Ocracoke Island in early 2008, and explains some of the issues we will face. You can read it here.

Pace of Life

Yesterday I was out in the side yard chatting with my daughter, Amy. Lachlan was running up and down the ramp at their house. As we talked, Michael skidded to an abrupt stop behind us, nearly touching Amy's calf with his bike tire. We both jumped. As usual, Michael had an infectious grin on his face. He was just being impish. Michael is co-owner of the Flying Melon Restaurant where Amy sometimes works, and he was riding down Howard Street when he decided to stop and visit.

We stood there talking for a while, but I was in the middle of a small plumbing project, so I excused myself to get back to work. As I walked away I thought, this is one of the reasons that life on the island is so pleasant. We all work. But in unconventional ways, and sometimes at odd schedules. And usually we are flexible, so we can stop and chat with neighbors along the lane.

I believe the relaxed pace of life is a healthy way to live. It encourages creativity, and neighborliness, and a lighthearted approach to daily living. It suits us just fine.

This month's newsletter discusses the planned replacement of the seven bridges on Ocracoke Island in early 2008, and explains some of the issues we will face. You can read it here.

Islands

Islands, the magazine, that is. Their latest issue (June, 2007) features a story on Ocracoke, starting on page 62. Author Ken McAlpine has been to the island several times, and has contributed this interesting article as one of three under the heading A Seafarer's Journal. If you get the chance check it out. There are some fine photos of Ocracoke as well. Even the cover shows Ocracoke's schooner Windfall sailing toward the coastline. Unfortunately, the captions (one on page 5, and another on page 62 with a broader view of the same scene) identify the area as Teach's Hole. It is not Teach's Hole.

Rob & Sundae called to talk about the misidentification. Rob says he's never been to whatever coast is shown in the magazine (in spite of the fact that his schooner is shown there). I even took the photo to Maurice Ballance (he is 80 years old and has lived on the island his entire life), and to Maurice's nephew, Gene (he has mapped every foot of Ocracoke's coastline). We all agree that this is not Teach's Hole. Gene emailed me the accompanying aerial photo of Teach's Hole and Springer's Point. I hope you enjoy this view. If you have the opportunity to see the magazine, compare both photos and you will see that they are two very different places.



Springer's Point juts out into Pamlico Sound in the upper left side of this photo. Red areas indicate tree cover. Also note the white sandy beaches. The "Old Slough" is the branching tidal creek in the center of the photo just below Springer's.

In addition to doing a little sleuthing, the afternoon turned into a wonderful visit with Maurice and Gene. Maurice, as usual, was barefooted. We walked together down the dirt path to Gene's house (after Maurice retrieved his "walking cane" from the back of his pickup truck). Our visit with Gene at an end, Maurice led me down another path to visit the graves of his parents, grandparents, great-grandparents, and other assorted relatives. There was even one ancient wooden marker (heart cedar, Maurice pointed out). Maurice's grandfather, Marcus (Mark) had owned 25 acres of land here Maurice remarked, gesturing wide with his outstretched arm.

My visit was too soon over. I headed back home, happy to have one more opportunity to learn about my home from another one of the old-timers.

This month's newsletter discusses the planned replacement of the seven bridges on Ocracoke Island in early 2008, and explains some of the issues we will face. You can read it here.

Aftermath

We're almost back to normal (well as normal as Ocracoke ever gets). The Swan Quarter & Cedar Island ferries are running again this morning. The strong winds have abated (wind velocity is only about 10 mph today), the sun is drying out the dampness, and shop doors are reopening. Word from UPS has it that a portion of the road on Hatteras Island is still covered with sand from ocean overwash, so their truck won't be traveling to the island until tomorrow. But we understand that the DOT is working hard to open Highway 12 sometime this morning. All the while life just continues to flow here on Ocracoke.

This month's newsletter discusses the planned replacement of the seven bridges on Ocracoke Island in early 2008, and explains some of the issues we will face. You can read it here.

Latest Info

I received the following email this afternoon:

"Currently on Ocracoke: cloudy, winds from the NNE gusting 44-53 knots (courtesy N. C. Ferry Division Ocracoke). Highest wind recorded overnight was 63. There is minor flooding in areas facing the sound (high tide last hour), such as the rear of Jackson Dunes and Tom Neal Drive. Some water is seen under a few of the houses in Oyster Creek, some of which accumulated from waves crashing into bulkheads. Water levels are right at the bulkhead in much of Oyster Creek. NC 12 on Ocracoke is open with no major issues, maybe only a "trickle" across the North end. No ferries are currently running. Dare County reports sand and water on NC 12 in northern Rodanthe and road is closed, possibly into Tuesday.

Luckily, there has been no known damage, no power outages, no emergency incidents, etc.

Thanks

Tony Spencer

Hyde Co Emergency Management

P O Box 95, Swan Quarter, NC 27885

Office: 252-926-4374 - Fax: 926-3701

Cell: 542-0805 - Emergency: 926-3171

tspencer@hydecountync.gov - KI4KRY"

This month's newsletter discusses the planned replacement of the seven bridges on Ocracoke Island in early 2008, and explains some of the issues we will face. You can read it here.

Stranded

"We went to the Variety Store and bought toothpaste and deodorant," they told me yesterday. "Wish we'd packed our bags. Now we'll be wearing the same clothes until the ferries start running again."

These folks were some of those who came to the island yesterday for a day trip, and ended up spending the night. Maybe two nights. The wind is gusting to 40 mph or more as I write. Trees are bending in the wind, the air is sharp, and the ferries are tied securely to the docks.

Locals are taking it in stride. It's one of the consequences of living on an island. Honestly, many of us like being cut off from the outside world, at least for a while. We are reminded of our special place here on the Outer Banks.

Remembering Hurricane Alex three years ago, some islanders have moved their cars to higher ground. Already, Jude says, the tidewater in the creek in front of her house is just about ready to spill over into her yard. And we've heard reports that the ocean has washed over the road on Hatteras Island.

We'll keep you posted.

This month's newsletter discusses the planned replacement of the seven bridges on Ocracoke Island in early 2008, and explains some of the issues we will face. You can read it here.

Weather

Living on the Outer Banks is never dull. I awoke this morning to trees swaying outside my bedroom window. In my outdoor shower I watched as branches bent and gently touched the roof of my out building. I didn't think too much of it until I received a phone call from Jude. Apparently the weather service is calling for increased winds (maybe as high as 60-70 mph) later today & through tomorrow, with a chance of beach erosion and soundside flooding.

Visitors I've spoken to are planning to leave, hoping the ferries will be running when they get to the dock. Me? I think I'll finish a few tasks I've set for myself this morning, then close up shop for the day (I've only had two customers all morning!). Then I'll put my car on a small hill and take the rest of the day off.

I'll let you know tomorrow how we fared.

(In answer to Jamie's comment on Wednesday's journal entry, the book is A Treasury of American Anecdotes, Sly, Salty, Shaggy Stories of Heroes and Hellions, Beguilers and Buffoons, Spellbinders and Scapegoats, Gagsters and Gossips, from the Grassroots & Sidewalks of America, edited by B.A. Botkin. Is that a great title or what? The story in the book of the Greatest Tobacco Chewer on Ocracoke Island is one that was told to me several years ago by one of the island old-timers. It is short, but fun. I'll include it in a future Ocracoke Newsletter. Keep looking for it in the next few months.)

This month's newsletter discusses the planned replacement of the seven bridges on Ocracoke Island in early 2008, and explains some of the issues we will face. You can read it here.

Friday Night Poker

The house is old, the ceilings low and the stairs steep. Painted on the risers are these words: "Watch Your Step. It May Be Your Last." The walls are unpainted tongue and groove pine....that is, where there are walls. The kitchen is just exposed ancient heart pine framing members. There is an old metal bed in the downstairs bedroom, and a dresser pushed up against the wall. A few simple chairs and a table or two adorn the living room. A wooden cable spool, covered with seashells, rests on the screened in porch. Across the dirt road, past the marsh grass, a lonely red light flashes languidly on a channel marker. In the distance I hear the distinctive "quawk" of a night heron. A few scattered stars peek out from an overcast sky.

Inside, six friends sit around the poker table. Nearby, scribbled on the wall are the penciled accounts of the 1933 & 1944 hurricanes ("14 foot tides," "Island completely under water," ""3 feet of water pounding through this cottage, "Porch blown off and front windows shattered"). But this night is quiet. We push the windows open and prop them up with sticks lying on the sills. Only a gentle breeze rustles the cotton curtains.

We play until midnight.

I get on my bike and pedal through the dark, silent village. On Lawton Lane I spy my porch light welcoming me home. I walk up my stairs, crawl into bed, and fall asleep.

This month's newsletter discusses the planned replacement of the seven bridges on Ocracoke Island in early 2008, and explains some of the issues we will face. You can read it here.

OISFT

That's the Ocracoke Invitational Surf Fishing Tournament which kicked off Wednesday night with a gathering at Howard's Pub. This is the 24th annual tournament, and teams of anglers return year after year for some of the best surf fishing on the East Coast, as well as a rollicking good time. Sixty-six teams (including more than two dozen all female teams) compete all day Thursday and all day today.

Last night the Ocracoke Rockers entertained them at Howard's Pub until midnight. This evening at 5:30 the tournament hosts a pig pickin' under the tent at the Community Center. Afterwards judges will hand out awards, then everyone heads back to the Pub for another party. You can't say these folks don't know how to have fun.

But in addition to fishing and partying, the OISFT sponsors several local causes. Last year the board presented the Ocracoke school a $500.00 check for the Sigma Willis Memorial Scholarship Fund, donated $3000.00 to the Ocracoke Volunteer Fire Department, $500.00 to the Ocracoke/Hyde County Rescue Squad, and $500.00 to the Ocracoke School Booster Club.

Good luck to all the fisherfolk!

This month's newsletter discusses the planned replacement of the seven bridges on Ocracoke Island in early 2008, and explains some of the issues we will face. You can read it here.

Graveyards Again

On and off today I've been visiting the family graveyards across the lane. There is really so much history there, much of it buried with the souls who lie under the shade of the oaks and cedars and yaupons. Nevertheless a lot of the history can be teased out by carefully reading the dates and epitaphs. Still more, the best stories and details come when I walk among the tombs with cousin Blanche.

Who is buried here, with this large heavy stone as a marker? There is no inscription. I know he was a sea captain. What is his story? And what about this concrete post? Whose grave is this? And Esther O'Neal....is this the midwife everyone called Aunt Hettie Tom? I know there was no doctor. How many babies did she birth? What about these four tiny markers with inscriptions on each side? Of course, these are the graves of eight children buried side by side. What a tragedy. I wonder how they all died. How did the Braggs come to be buried in the Howard cemetery? Was it during the "time of the blowing sand?" What was that like? And is this Agnes Scott really kin to the woman who gave her name to Agnes Scott College in Georgia? And how did she wind up on Ocracoke Island? One more thing -- where was Evans Howard buried before his brother dug him up and reburied him years later, and why did he do that?

Come on out to the island for the Ocrafolk Festival the first weekend in June. And stay nearby when I take the stage with Blanche on Howard Street. We'll be taking about the family graveyards and you'll hear answers to all of the questions above. In the process you'll get another glimpse into island life of generations past.

This month's newsletter discusses the planned replacement of the seven bridges on Ocracoke Island in early 2008, and explains some of the issues we will face. You can read it here.

Ocracoke & the Internet

As regular readers know, I prefer to shop locally. I buy almost all of my books from Leslie at Books to be Red on School Road. I almost never go off the island to do grocery shopping, preferring to trade here at home. I purchase Frank's "Andromeda Soaps" right here at Village Craftsmen. And I make lists (like nearly everyone else on the island), so that when I do go away I can stop "up the beach" as we say, and stock up on things that I can't get on the island.

But every now and then I need something that I can't get locally. That's when the internet sure comes in handy. I just received a used book (published in 1957) in the mail yesterday. It cost all of 21 cents (a bit more for postage!), but it had one section entitled The Greatest Tobacco Chewer on Ocracoke Island. I couldn't resist. And today I ordered a small tankless water heater to replace our leaking heater at Village Craftsmen. And I'm looking on line for a ceiling fan for my back porch -- one designed for damp or wet conditions.

Sometimes the modern world impinges on island life, and it's not always such a bad thing. Nevertheless, we're still skeptical of many things "of the mainland." It's all a matter of balance, I guess.

This month's newsletter discusses the planned replacement of the seven bridges on Ocracoke Island in early 2008, and explains some of the issues we will face. You can read it here.

Restaurants

Yesterday a reader asked about island restaurants. The question was, "Any new restaurants opening this year and is Pony Island going to be opened for dinner? I know last year they stopped dinners."

There is a new restaurant, Mango Loco, located where Sargasso Grill was last year, on NC Highway 12. I don't eat out often and have not been to Mango Loco yet (I understand though that they have the biggest selection of Caribbean food on the island). Maybe one of our readers has a comment.

According to the latest advertisement in the Ocracoke Observer the Pony Island Restaurant is open for breakfast from 7 am to 2 pm. They also serve lunch from 11 am to 2 pm.

My daughter, Amy, an island waitress, tells me that all of the restaurants are now open for the season. (Earlier today I posted that the Ocracoke Coffee Company has opened, but I'm told that will not be for a little while yet.) Let us know if you have recommendations.

This month's newsletter discusses the planned replacement of the seven bridges on Ocracoke Island in early 2008, and explains some of the issues we will face. You can read it here.

Graveyards

It's springtime and the grasses, weeds, and vines (especially poison ivy) are growing prolifically. This morning I decided it was time to do some trimming and cutting in the graveyards. I don't do landscaping and I'm not much for flowers (only occasionally do I add I few wildflowers). I'm content to let much of the natural vegetation climb up the fences and drop down from overhanging tree limbs. But I cut down the tall grass and sprouting weeds and shrubs that would threaten to overtake the graves. It is a satisfying chore. Outside, in the morning air, the dappled shadows on the marble tombstones, I worked among the spirits of ancestors -- my mother and father, Grandpapa Homer & Grandmama Aliph, Aunt Tressie and Uncle Wheeler, as well as assorted other relatives. Just one more opportunity to connect with the past in this small village.



This month's newsletter discusses the planned replacement of the seven bridges on Ocracoke Island in early 2008, and explains some of the issues we will face. You can read it here.

Working

Sometimes I have to be reminded of how different island life is from the typical American life. I've been working this morning....but it's been quiet here on Howard Street. David stopped by with Lachlan, and since there were no customers I walked outside with them and watched as the young-un pushed a stick through the sand, climbed on graveyard fences, or ran up and down the lane.

Before I knew it, it was noon, so I walked around the corner to my house. David & Lachlan came along, and Julie & Gary were there too. We had plenty of food for lunch -- cold shrimp, cole slaw, salad, homemade rolls, and more.

As we were cleaning up I asked Gary what he was up to today. "Oh," he said, "We biked around the village this morning. I think I'll go out to the dump this afternoon and salvage a few bike parts." I think David will be adding some finishing touches to his new kitchen cabinets this afternoon. I was the only one "really working."

But even I had a few minutes to lie in the hammock before heading back around the corner to the Village Craftsmen. Maybe I'll have customers. Even so, it won't be your typical work day.

This month's newsletter discusses the planned replacement of the seven bridges on Ocracoke Island in early 2008, and explains some of the issues we will face. You can read it here.

Stories & More Stories

"You can't visit with an Ocracoker for more than ten minutes before talk turns to distant relatives and how everyone is kin." So observed my brother this weekend. Earl O'Neal has just completed his nearly 700 page tome on the Howard family (and the Jacksons, Garrishes, and Stowes) of Ocracoke. As Earl explained over dinner last night, they were all intermarried, so a study of one meant a study of them all. Earl's book is full of detailed genealogical information, as well as photos, copies of wills, deeds, & other documents, and stories & history.

After dinner we sat in the living room, shared tales, and laughed til nearly midnight. We all agreed that the best stories could never be printed. That's why we must keep telling them in parlors, around kitchen tables, and along the lanes. If you stick around here long enough, and are patient, maybe you'll hear one of the better stories too.

This month's newsletter discusses the planned replacement of the seven bridges on Ocracoke Island in early 2008, and explains some of the issues we will face. You can read it here.

Not Much News

Just a brief note for today. Family & friends have been visiting, so we've been chatting and catching up on news. Haven't been out and about much, nor have I heard much about local goings-on. So that's it for this Friday. Maybe I'll have something to report tomorrow.


This month's newsletter discusses the planned replacement of the seven bridges on Ocracoke Island in early 2008, and explains some of the issues we will face. You can read it here.

Family & Friends

This afternoon I am expecting a visit from my brother. The weather is looking fine, so maybe he'll want to walk on the beach, or just sit on the pizer and read until I get off work. Amy & David & Lachlan are coming over this evening with their house guest, Jule, from Berlin, to join us for a boiled shrimp dinner. Tomorrow some other cousins are planning to come to the island also and we'll have a larger family gathering for dinner and chatting about old times. Blanche says she's coming too, so we'll have our "keeper of island traditions and family lore" to help keep our stories straight.

This month's newsletter discusses the planned replacement of the seven bridges on Ocracoke Island in early 2008, and explains some of the issues we will face. You can read it here.

More Shells

The other day a customer asked me where the best place was to look for seashells. I explained that there isn't any one particular stretch of the beach that is better than another, and that, furthermore, it's not like it was decades ago before such easy access to the beach by so many people. "You might be lucky and find an unbroken shell," I said, "but don't be disappointed if you don't"

The very next day I spied a section of beach littered with mostly broken shells. But amongst the fragments I located several nice specimens, including one nearly perfect lettered olive. The black object below is actually fairly common. It is a skate egg case, or what Ocracokers call a "Devil's Pocketbook."



This month's newsletter discusses the planned replacement of the seven bridges on Ocracoke Island in early 2008, and explains some of the issues we will face. You can read it here.

A Day Off

What a fine day to take a day off from work. I'm thinking of yesterday (today would be another such day, but I will be working all day today). Monday's temperatures were in the 70s with a light breeze. The sun was bright and cheery.

Amy's good friend from Berlin, Jule, is visiting this week. We decided to take a stroll through the woods (a small maritime forest) and along the sound shore, but first we stopped at the bank and the post office to run a few errands. Jule smiled at how we greeted or talked with just about everyone along the way. I guess the citizens of Berlin don't all know each other by name. Out by the water we watched pleasure boats, a trawler followed by dozens of seagulls, and the Swan Quarter ferry.

Mid day I spent an hour at the beach. (See yesterday's post for a photo of the shipwreck that is exposed.)

Later Capt. Rob invited us to join him and his crew for a sunset cruise on his schooner, the Windfall. Lachlan went with us. I believe it was his first time on a sailboat. He was fascinated to see his favorite landmarks (the lighthouse, the old Coast Guard station, Springer's Point) from a new vantage point. Jule had never been on a schooner before either.

We had a great day.

This month's newsletter discusses the planned replacement of the seven bridges on Ocracoke Island in early 2008, and explains some of the issues we will face. You can read it here.

Wooden Skeleton

It lay on the beach quiet and serene. Sixty feet long, and about four yards wide, it was a silent reminder of tragedy at sea many years ago. I stumbled across the wreck a couple of days ago, and went back this afternoon to take some photos. I mentioned the wreck to Blanche over her picket fence. "Where is it?" she wanted to know. I told her. She thought for a few moments. "You know I think that could be the remains of the Nomis," she offered.

The 134 foot Nomis wrecked on Ocracoke beach in August of 1935. She was one of the last schooners to meet her end on the island. It was as if History itself has surfaced for a while. In due time the blowing sands will re-bury the beams and spikes. In the meanwhile we can only wonder what it was like on the fateful day more than seventy years ago.

You can click on the photos below to view larger images.






This month's newsletter discusses the planned replacement of the seven bridges on Ocracoke Island in early 2008, and explains some of the issues we will face. You can read it here.

A Spring Walk

What a terrific day for a walk through the woods and along the sound shore! Finally spring has arrived, with temperatures in the mid-70s. Lachlan and I stopped at Tom Pahl's house first and inspected his chicken yard. We peeked into the coop but none of the hens was laying this morning. No eggs. So we proceeded on down the path, stopping to identify trees and shrubs -- cedar, myrtle, yaupon, live oak....but Lachlan's favorite (at least his favorite to point out) was poison ivy. And my, was it growing in thick profusion. We kept our distance. Along the shore we watched boats motor past, and stopped to inspect several jellyfish floating in the ripples by the beach. Of course we had to climb a tree or two and put some seeds out for the birds. All in all it was a fun way to spend a sunny spring morning.

This month's newsletter discusses the planned replacement of the seven bridges on Ocracoke Island in early 2008, and explains some of the issues we will face. You can read it here.

Family Photo

A couple of days ago my brother sent me an envelope with a few old pictures he found while organizing his things. My favorite is this one:



This photo was taken about 1948. Notice the helmet shell on the landing. I am sitting beside my mother. My grandmother Aliph is on the porch swing. This is the same house I now live in, on Lawton Lane. Wonderful memories!

This month's newsletter discusses the planned replacement of the seven bridges on Ocracoke Island in early 2008, and explains some of the issues we will face. You can read it here.

Moon Snail

April has been unseasonably cold this year. Folks walk into the Village Craftsmen bundled up in heavy jackets, wool hats, and scarves. Babies are wrapped in blankets, and toddlers wear mittens and caps.

The air at the beach is sharp and cuts through layers of clothes. Yesterday the sand raced across the flats, obliterating my footprints as I walked. It found its way through seams in my shoes, into my socks, and between my toes. I trudged along, hood pulled tight around my face, my head down to protect it from the stinging wind. And that's how I spotted this beautiful moon snail washed up on the beach.



This month's newsletter discusses the planned replacement of the seven bridges on Ocracoke Island in early 2008, and explains some of the issues we will face. You can read it here.

Bridge Replacements

The North Carolina Department of Transportation has slated the seven half-century old bridges on Ocracoke Island for replacement in early 2008. The work will be completed within a 75 day period from the beginning of January next year to mid-March. Many issues are being worked out to ensure the least disruption to island life during that period. Please read our latest newsletter for more information. And check back here regularly. We will keep you posted as any new information becomes available.

The Southern Cottage

The Southern Cottage from the Blue Ridge Mountains to the Florida Keys by Susan Sully just came out last week. A 208 page book richly illustrated with Susan's color photographs, The Southern Cottage features 18 homes, mostly modest cottages representative of southern architecture. Pages 106 - 115 highlight my home on Ocracoke Island. Eight photos and four pages of text document the house and offer a glimpse into Lou Ann's and my life on the island.

Needless to say, having my home chosen to be among the best representations of southern cottages has been exciting. All of Susan's photographs are stunningly beautiful, and I can say with confidence that she portrays the residences (or at least my residence) with integrity and sensitivity to genuineness.

The next time you are in your favorite bookstore (for me that would be Books to be Red on School Road right here in Ocracoke) take a look at the book. I think you'll be impressed.

This month's Ocracoke Newsletter tells how to make a traditional wooden whistle from a myrtle branch. You can read the newsletter here.

Stormy Weather

Well, the north winds finally have arrived. About 1:30 this morning I was awakened by the whistling and howling of the storm. Out my bedroom window the trees were cavorting & dancing with each other. A screen door was banging and the porch rockers were moving in rhythm with the gusts. I walked downstairs and unhooked one side of my porch swing and let it rest on the floor. I turned the rockers over. I even took my flashlight and checked to see if tree limbs were brushing against my car. On the way back inside I hooked the screen door, then crawled back into bed.

This morning I called a neighbor. His home weather station had recorded gusts of only 40 mph (not the 60 mph predicted), but the ten-minute averages were 20-30 mph for several hours.

It's still blowing out there, with gusts of about 20 - 25 mph. The rain is over. School children dressed in pink jackets, bright red coats, and yellow hooded sweatshirts are walking down Howard Street on a mini-field trip. The sun is bright and the sky is "Carolina blue" with an occasional cotton ball cloud passing by. Weather like this makes you feel alive.

This month's Ocracoke Newsletter tells how to make a traditional wooden whistle from a myrtle branch. You can read the newsletter here.

Storm?

Yesterday the weather forecast was calling for strong winds (with gusts up to 60mph) after midnight and throughout today, along with high tides and coastal flooding. Most of the visitors, anticipating ocean overwash on NC highway 12, left the island yesterday. A friend who traveled home down the Outer Banks on Saturday said there was a steady stream of north-bound traffic that made it impossible to pass (but since he was almost the only car heading south he never needed to pass!).

Right now (it's almost 3:30 in the afternoon) the wind gusts are probably little more than 20 - 25 miles an hour, but appear to be increasing. The trees are swaying and the windows are starting to rattle (sort of like a mini hurricane). At any rate, we have not gotten anywhere near 60 mph winds, at least not yet. Only time will tell if we have significant tides and/or flooding later this evening or early tomorrow morning. Just in case, I've put my car up on a small hill.

Since most visitors left yesterday many island shops, including Village Craftsmen, closed for today. It was a good day to catch up on long-neglected chores. But I'm ready to quit now. Some friends are coming over for dinner tonight, so I suppose I'd better go put something on the stove. I'll let you know tomorrow if this storm amounts to anything.

This month's Ocracoke Newsletter tells how to make a traditional wooden whistle from a myrtle branch. You can read the newsletter here.

Turtles

Jude wants me to be sure to tell you that the turtles are back. Because she lives right on the tail end of a tidal creek on the edge of the marsh she has the pleasure of watching quite a lot of wildlife from her deck. She and Frank routinely see egrets, blue herons, and other wading birds, as well as ducks, geese, and the occasional nutria. But the critters she talks about the most, and the ones she is most fond of, are the turtles. She hates to see them disappear in the cold winter months, but is delighted when they return in the spring. You can just see the sparkle in her eyes when she talks about the turtles. I believe she thinks it's like the swallows returning to Capistrano.

Maybe I'll carry Lachlan over to Jude's one day this coming week so we can help feed the turtles.

This month's Ocracoke Newsletter tells how to make a traditional wooden whistle from a myrtle branch. You can read the newsletter here.

Archaeology Adventures

A couple of days ago I received an email from Anne Poole of the Lost Colony Center for Science and Research in Manteo, NC. They have some exciting weekend archaeological events planned for this summer. I thought some of our readers might be interested, so I am sharing her email with you all. If you join them, maybe you will drop us a note afterwards.

"Hello Everyone !

"Summer is right around the corner, and we at The Lost Colony Center for Science and Research have exciting adventures planned for the season ! You are invited to join in with us on any of our research week-ends ! All events are very reasonably priced and will allow you to participate in hands-on archaeology, helping us learn and discover more about what happened to the mysterious band of colonists from 1587 on Roanoke Island !

"Our first event begins on Friday, June 8, at our research center in the Jamesville Community near Washington, NC. Registration begins at 12 noon, followed by an afternoon of learning about the history of Sir Walter Raleigh's Lost Colonists and our research in trying to locate where they went, and also a basic class on "how-to" archaeology. Supper is on your own that night, but we'll suggest local restaurants. You'll spend Friday night and Saturday night at the research center, which is like an inside camping trip...complete with bathrooms and running water ! On Saturday morning, we will provide a light breakfast, and then we'll go on our all day field trip to one of four sites, all of which have connections and / or artifacts connecting to what we believe to be the colonists. One site in particular we are excited about, as we have found a hand dug well, which is what the colonists would have done. This is also an area where we have found a very, very, old burial ground, which MAY be connected to The Lost Colony. After returning from this field trip late Saturday afternoon, we will also provide supper for you with a cook-out. If you happen to be there on a lucky week-end, you may be eating steak ! Or, you may be lucky and have hot dogs and hamburgers ! Either way, we'll make sure you are well fed before bedding down that night ! You can leave on Sunday at any time you want to.

"These events will run every week-end throughout the summer, and most likely into early fall. The total cost is $150 per person, and includes the two nights at the center and the two meals. We are also doing two special week-ends. On the week-ends of June 29 and July 6, we will be at our official Lost Colony motel in Buxton, NC, on the famous Outer Banks of NC ! This was known in the 16th century as Croatan, the home of the friendly Indians to the colonists, and Manteo's mother's village.

"This area is a VERY important archaeological site, and we will be doing the event there on the site. If you are interested in these week-ends, you need to contact me for more information.

"We also have another special event, which will include living on our 36' research sailboat, and going through the sounds on it to get to other sites not accessible by foot. If you are interested in this event, you also need to contact me for details.

"Also, if you are interested in the Buxton event, you are responsible for making your own motel reservations, and need to contact me ASAP for details. The actual artifact hunt and classes will be much cheaper since you are responsible for everything else.

"We are taking reservations now for these week-ends, so let me know which ones you are interested in before they fill up ! Feel free to contact me for any questions !

"Anne Poole,
The Lost Colony Center for Science and Research"

This month's Ocracoke Newsletter tells how to make a traditional wooden whistle from a myrtle branch. You can read the newsletter here.

Virginia Woolf

Last night a group of about two dozen islanders gathered at the home of Leonard Meeker for a pot luck dinner. As usual, there was a table full of delicious dishes, from home made bread to lemon curd & almond ice cream, and everything in between. The evening was about more than eating, however. It was a celebration of the 125th birthday of Virginia Woolf (OK, we were a few months late). Unfortunately I am not as literary as many of the other folks, and had only read 28 pages of To the Lighthouse (I only picked up the book at 11 p.m. the night before), but was fascinated by Woolf's life, her literary gifts, and the insights so many of my neighbors had. It certainly was an inspiration, and you can be sure I will finish my book (though I may have to wait until this busy week is over).

If any of our readers would like to share Virginia Woolf quotations or anecdotes just click on the "comments" link below. We'd be happy to hear from you.

This month's Ocracoke Newsletter tells how to make a traditional wooden whistle from a myrtle branch. You can read the newsletter here.

Ghost & History Walks

Several days ago a reader added this comment to our daily journal:

"Philip, as a frequent visitor to the island, one of the pleasures I enjoy is 'discovering' something new each time I visit -- a new place, new insight into the island's history, etc.Your latest entry mentions your Ghost & History Walks. For those of us who've never had the pleasure, can you share some insights or provide a link where we can find more details about the walks? As always, appreciate your posts. Cheers."

We (that is my daughter, Amy; Lou Ann; & I) offer ghost & history walking tours of the village of Ocracoke every Tuesday and Friday during the "season" at 7:30 in the evening. We started last week and will continue into the fall. We all enjoy sharing the stories and history, and a number of folks have signed up for the tours two or more times. You can read more about them here.

This month's Ocracoke Newsletter tells how to make a traditional wooden whistle from a myrtle branch. You can read the newsletter here.

Snow, Sleet, & Hail

A belated Happy Easter to all of our readers! Didn't write a journal entry yesterday. We all need a day off now and then.

This weekend was strange. At least the weather has been. Saturday started out cold and blustery -- somewhat unusual for mid-April, at least the cold was. Then a customer walked in and said she had seen snow earlier in the day. That was hard to believe, but not long after that I looked out the window and it was snowing....or sleeting....or hailing. I couldn't tell which. I walked outside to see. It was an odd, "clumpy" snow. It wasn't hail or sleet, but it wasn't normal snowflakes either. And it only lasted for a few minutes.

Later on we did have a bit of sleet, and at one point a little rain. In between it all the sun would come out and brighten the day. Like I said, it was strange.

A brief historical note: Yesterday was the 146th anniversary of the wreck of the brig "Black Squall." The Black Squall was loaded with sugar or circus animals, depending on which accounts you read. Maybe it was both. But the circus animals have provided Ocracokers with a wonderfully eccentric story that I must share with all of our readers. But that will have to wait for another day.

This month's Ocracoke Newsletter tells how to make a traditional wooden whistle from a myrtle branch. You can read the newsletter here.

Hattie

On this date in 1887 the sharpie "Hattie" with a crew of two was stranded in Pamlico Sound on nearby "Legged Lump." The crew was aground for several days with nothing to eat. When the Life Saving Crew arrived they all "got overboard and work[ed] hard to get her off as they was in a bad condition...." But the effort failed. They tried again on the next flood tide but were forced to leave the vessel there over night. The next morning, after more than three hours of hard work, they succeeded in freeing the Hattie. Keeper James Howard reported that the captain said "they wold have to....starve if it wold not bin for our service."

Today would not be a good day to be stranded in Pamlico Sound. It is barely 40 degrees this morning, and the winds are blowing more than 30 miles per hour. Where has spring gone? But at least it's above freezing, and we don't have snow. And we know this cold snap won't last forever.

This month's Ocracoke Newsletter tells how to make a traditional wooden whistle from a myrtle branch. You can read the newsletter here.

Reconnecting

This is the time of year when frequent visitors to the island stop by to say hello. We've begun our Ghost & History Walks this week, and on both tours I've had folks who have joined me in years past. It is always good to speak with regular visitors and know that they appreciate the people and culture of Ocracoke Island. Also yesterday a distant cousin (3rd cousin ??) from Maryland stopped by to chat. As one neighbor said once, Ocracoke is one of those places where people talk about things that happened in the early 1800s and bystanders might think it happened yesterday.

Oh, by the way, yesterday's overcast skies quickly morphed into a bright, cheery, sun-filled day. Cool and a bit breezy, as today, but otherwise a perfect spring day.

This month's Ocracoke Newsletter tells how to make a traditional wooden whistle from a myrtle branch. You can read the newsletter here.

A Pewter Sky on Thursday

We knew the balmy spring weather was about to end. It was in the weather reports, and it was the talk of the village. But we didn't want to believe it.

Actually, it's still in the upper 50s this morning, although the sky is gray and overcast. There are more folks on the island this week (spring break in northern Virginia, Ohio, and central North Carolina), so we expect to see many of them on Howard Street later in the day (I don't think it will be a stellar beach day). For those of us who live here, I believe most of us would rather stay home and curl up with a good book or mess about in the house or shed, but alas it's back to work on a regular schedule.

Life could be worse -- a lot worse.

This month's Ocracoke Newsletter tells how to make a traditional wooden whistle from a myrtle branch. You can read the newsletter here.

Thunderstorm

Early this morning I awoke before dawn to the rumble of distant thunder. In a hypnopompic daze I stumbled to the window and lowered the sash near my bed. As I fell back to sleep the thunder grew louder and rain splattered on the roof. I slept through the rest of the storm, but awoke to a blissful near-silence. Downstairs no refrigerator motor hummed. On the mantle the pendulum clock ticked and tocked, and a bird sang in the distance, but that was all. A few clouds still scudded by overhead, but bright sunlight peeked out now and then.

It was our first thunderstorm of the year. And it was refreshing.

The electricity was still off as I ate my breakfast at 8 o'clock. I was having my first reservations about having installed an on-demand water heater two years ago when the power suddenly came back on.

This month's Ocracoke Newsletter tells how to make a traditional wooden whistle from a myrtle branch. You can read the newsletter here.

Getting Back "In the Groove"

Coming back home is always a tad bitter-sweet. When you live in a beautiful place like Ocracoke it's a lot sweet, as most of our readers can imagine....but it was hard to see Lou Ann walk down the airport terminal alone, heading back to Indiana. We had such a wonderful trip last week. She'll be back in June, and that's a good thing.

Back home, of course, I found my inbox packed with spam (as well as several emails to reply to), my post office box full of bills that need to be paid, and my car still packed with a tent, sleeping bags, camping equipment, and dirty clothes. But the sun is bright and cheery, and neighbors' smiles and waves welcome me back to a community like few others. If only I didn't have to work! But, then again, at least I can work barefooted if I want to! Ocracoke is a good place to come home to, even after a terrific vacation.

This month's Ocracoke Newsletter tells how to make a traditional wooden whistle from a myrtle branch. You can read the newsletter here.

Hello Again!

Hi. This is Philip. I've been away for a while -- well not "away away" the whole time. Spent a week helping my son rewire his house, then enjoyed a bit of island time without many responsibilities. This last week Lou Ann & I took a little trip -- went to see her son and daughter-in-law, and had a few other adventures. Among our excursions we included a wonderful four hour canoe trip (seven miles) through the Ocala (Florida) National Forest. We missed the alligators, but did see about two dozen turtles and one very large rattlesnake. I was paddling backwards against the current to get a better look when I realized that Lou Ann was paddling just as hard trying to get away. Finally he slithered back into the underbrush. Just as well, I guess.

We had a super trip with lots of laughter, great talks, terrific swimming, walking, and fascinating history. Alas, it was too brief.

But I'm back home again, ready for a busy two weeks. Stop by and say hello when you're next on the island.

This month's Ocracoke Newsletter tells how to make a traditional wooden whistle from a myrtle branch. You can read the newsletter here.

Ocracoke's First Traffic Light

After years of increased traffic on Ocracoke residents have been calling for the installation of traffic signals at the island's busiest intersections. One of the most notorious intersections is where Lawton Lane joins Howard Street. It was here in 1925 that the island's very first traffic accident occurred, when Mr. Will Willis and Mr. Albert Styron had a head-on collision (theirs were the only two vehicles on the island at the time).

This photo, taken by Linda Rippe of the Ocracoke Observer, was made shortly after the installation of the light. The backup of traffic is testimony to the urgent need for even more signals. Click here for more information.

This month's Ocracoke Newsletter tells how to make a traditional wooden whistle from a myrtle branch. You can read the newsletter here.