Bon Voyage

Yesterday afternoon at five o'clock the sky was gun-barrel gray. Rain clouds had been forming and scudding by overhead most of the day. Several people even spotted a couple of waterspouts out in Pamlico Sound earlier in the day. But there was no rain.

We came, Amy, David, Lachlan, and I, to bid "fare-thee-well" to Emma Lovejoy, a rising senior who will be leaving her island home in a couple of days, to spend a year in Copenhagen. The yard and house were full of well-wishers. Danish flags flew from the porch facia, a map adorned the wall. There was even a letter from Emma's new host mother displayed for all to read.

Hamburgers were cooking on the outdoor grill and picnic tables were piled with side dishes. And then the heavens opened. There was a rush to grab plates of salad, deviled eggs, & creme puffs. A line was formed and, quick as a wink, the food was brought inside. In moments the porch was crowded with young and old alike. When the rain cloud passed and folks returned to the yard we were all relieved that the porch had held solid.

We'll be looking forward to hearing from Emma as she embarks on this new adventure overseas. Bon voyage, Emma!

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the Black Squall, a brig loaded with circus animals that wrecked on Ocracoke in April of 1861. You can read it here.

The Black Squall

I've published yet another Ocracoke Newsletter. This month I share Walter Howard's story of the wreck of the Black Squall (April, 1861). Walter was a wonderful writer, and the story is fascinating. The Black Squall was carrying a circus troupe from Havana to New York when it hit the beach on Ocracoke. The story was told to him by "Old Kade" who was 17 years old when the tragedy happened.

You can read the story here. Enjoy!

A Beautiful Day

Weekends are transition days on Ocracoke. Most cottages rent from Saturday to Saturday, or Sunday to Sunday, so the island is quieter on the weekends. It's a pity, since the weather is so nice today -- the perfect beach day. I haven't been yet. This morning was my time to straighten the house and do some house cleaning (the grandchildren went back to the mountains early this morning -- we had a grand time). I also watered the new front yard garden, helped David cut some lumber, did the laundry, and worked on a few stories. I believe I'll putz around the house a bit more, maybe take an afternoon nap, and then head for the beach later in the afternoon when it's not so hot.

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter has information about the new island Folk School. Click here to read about this new venture.

Clovis Point

You just never know what you might find on Ocracoke's beach. I have found fruits and vegetables, shoes, and hatch covers....as well as my share of shells, sand dollars, and starfish. Not long ago hundreds (maybe thousands) of bags of Doritos washed up on Hatteras beaches.

One of the most intriguing finds is pictured below. Just days ago a neighbor walking along the beach reached down and picked up this beautiful 3 1/2" pre-Columbian spear point. He thinks it is a Clovis Point, maybe 10,000 to 12,000 years old, and made of jasper. But we're open to input from readers who may be more familiar with native American artifacts.

Please add a comment if you think you may know what sort of stone this point is made from, or if you have other information to share.

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter has information about the new island Folk School. Click here to read about this new venture.

Fish House Update

Yesterday Margie Brooks, Executive Director of the Hyde County Chamber of Commerce sent an email with the following information from the NC Division of tourism newsletter about Ocracoke's Fish House:


OCRACOKE'S LAST REMAINING FISH HOUSE NO LONGER FLOUNDERING

After being resurrected from near-demise, Ocracoke's last remaining fish house now seems to be on its way to a more secure future. The N.C. Rural Economic Development Center has agreed to provide a grant for $325,000 to pay back a bridge loan to Hyde County, which in turn relieves Ocracoke Seafood Co. of its debt. The county will then formulate a legal agreement with the Ocracoke Working Watermen's Association, operators of the fish house.


Everyone is delighted with this news. To find out more, click here.


Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter has information about the new island Folk School. Click here to read about this new venture.

A Full Day

They are staying just across the lane, in the old house that once belonged to my father's cousin, Miss Elsie Tolson. Stefen, my son, is here with his wife Snee and their three children, Zoe, Eakin, & Eliza. The young-uns can just run down the path to see us....and they do.

Yesterday they all piled in the back of my pickup truck and we headed to the sound for a morning of swimming, exploring, and building sand castles.

Back home, we fixed sandwiches on the screened porch; then the children ran next door to play in the tree house. Late in the afternoon Amy taught them how to make papier mache masks in the side yard. They'll paint and decorate them sometime today.

Friends from Lou Ann's hometown arrived while the children were making masks. After a brief tour of the house, we adults spent the afternoon making homemade bread, deviled eggs, and corn casserole for the evening birthday party pot luck dinner. Lou Ann, and the other birthday girls, wore their flower crowns. (Tom, the only man there with a July birthday, was a good sport throughout the evening!)

Back home again we sat on the front porch and I played my harmonica. Our guests sat with us and we shared stories (everyone has stories, of course) until close to midnight.

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter has information about the new island Folk School. Click here to read about this new venture.

Fall in July

Early Friday morning the air turned cool and refreshing. It remained that way all day. We turned off the A/C, pushed open the windows, and opened the doors. Gradually the breeze picked up a bit. We joined Captain Rob for a pleasant sail on the schooner Windfall. There wasn't even the hum of neighbors' air conditioners to disturb our sleep.

Yesterday was Lou Ann's birthday. We enjoyed a quiet early morning breakfast before my son, Stefen, and his family arrived for a week long visit. The children were itching to get to the beach. Gray clouds scudded by; the tide was high & the water chilly. Incoming waves cut a foot high shelf into the beach. In spite of a strong southward current, Zoe, Eakin, & Eliza played safely in front of the lifeguard stand, jumping, squealing, and laughing as waves pushed them back to shore.

After supper at the Jolly Roger we gathered back home for brownies and ice cream. We lit one big candle (I didn't have any birthday candles), sang Happy Birthday, and Lou Ann made her wish. By 10 o'clock everyone was worn out. We all slept well once again.

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter has information about the new island Folk School. Click here to read about this new venture.

Harry Potter and the Ticking Clock....

We are a small quiet island gently rocking in the Atlantic....but when it comes to Harry Potter...we celebrate in style!

Last night at 10:30 the doors to the Community Center opened to let in wizards and Harry Potter look-alikes of every age as the clock counted down towards midnight. There were swarms of folks from locals to tourists. I met a librarian from Vermont and a farmer from Ohio!

Now I must make a confession. I do not own all of the Harry Potter books, and I did not even buy one at the bewitching hour last night...or was it this morning? (I can always get mine at the library!) But, oh, I was caught up in the magic. I punched out the lenses in an old pair of sunglasses, found a magic wand (one should never really be without a magic wand!), sprinkled purple glitter in my hair and presto.....a Sybil look alike. Off to the Community Center I wandered and was greeted with another spray of glitter as I entered.

I was amazed at the transformation and the work involved! There was a large graffiti board that asked our opinions...What will happen to Harry Potter!! (I have an opinion, but hope I am wrong!!) There was a great apothecary shop where we could make our own remedies. (Eye of newt and toe of frog...hmmm....that does sound familiar!!) I could have also made great eyeglasses and magic wands, but seeing as how I already possessed those I passed.

It was the seer I was most interested in. Yes...I waited with bated breath until my turn to casually (my heart was beating rapidly) pull aside the filmy curtain and have my tea leaves read. I didn't care about the plastic five gallon pail of water next to the table or the stream of children waiting to get in...no, this was my moment. And what did the seer find for me? Romance. Well, that was definitely worth waiting in line for.

We had our pictures taken too, in a floating gilded frame. I thought mine was really quite dramatic and mystic as I held out my magic wand and pursed my lips. Katy Mitchell thought I looked more like a leftover porn star. But what does she know, she is only 19!

There was music too. I think it was Sundae, David, Marcie and Lou...although with those black wigs and capes it was difficult to tell. They sang the Monster Mash and Love Potion Number 9. Actually I joined in on the chorus on the stage for the last one, but couldn't really see the words as the rims of my broken out sunglasses kept getting in the way.

Behind the scene was the ticking of the clock...the Harry Potter clock. Exactly at midnight books were falling into arms of adults and children alike.

I decided to leave then and headed out to Highway 12. I had hitched a ride earlier but they were far gone so for this midnight hour journey I had to walk. It was quiet and dark and a bit spooky so I picked up my pace on the sandy pathway next to the road.

So, I didn't buy the book. The only remnants I have of the evening were a pillow full of purple glitter this morning and a blue half moon sequin that I glued onto the side of my face. Once a wizard, always a wizard, I guess!!

Lou Ann

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter has information about the new island Folk School. Click here to read about this new venture.

As if....

.....Ocracoke needed any more publicity. But some readers have heard that Conde Nast Traveler has designated Ocracoke one of the best island beaches in the world. You can read the online article here. Ocracoke is on page 9, and frankly they did not give us much coverage. That's a good thing.

We like our visitors, especially those who understand that we are more than a pretty beach. We are just as surely an historic village and a modern community. We are family and friends, young and old, fishermen and musicians, gardeners and artists, school teachers and merchants, preachers and construction workers....and much more.

Thanks to all of our readers for understanding this.

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter has information about the new island Folk School. Click here to read about this new venture.

Birds

This morning, in my outdoor shower, I was serenaded by several birds in the trees nearby. I never did catch sight of them, although they kept me company through most of my shower.

I was reminded of the customer who asked Lou Ann several days ago if we sold "bird machines" at Village Craftsmen. Lou Ann, of course, didn't know what a bird machine was. The customer explained that his neighbors near their rental cottage had one, since he heard it playing every morning. Lou Ann gently suggested that maybe it was real birds he was hearing. He'd never thought of that!

So I stepped inside the house after my shower and informed Lou Ann that one of our neighbors now had a bird machine, too. If you live on the island or are planning a visit, maybe you'll be lucky enough that one of your neighbors has a bird machine also.

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter has information about the new island Folk School. Click here to read about this new venture.

Swan Quarter Ferry Information

Some very practical information:

Yesterday I received the following press release. Anyone planning to travel to or from Ocracoke by way of Swan Quarter in the immediate future may want to pay close attention.

FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE
Date: July 16, 2007
Contact: Lucy Wallace (252) 473-3461

MANNS HARBOR — The N.C. Department of Transportation's Ferry Division
has cancelled half its runs of the Swan Quarter-Ocracoke route,
because of hydraulic problems with the Motor Vessel Pamlico. Repairs
are currently under way. Officials currently do not know how long it
will take to correct the problem. The following ferry trips have been
cancelled until the vessel is reinstated:

Swan Quarter to Ocracoke:
9:30 a.m. and 4 p.m.

Ocracoke to Swan Quarter:
6:30 a.m. and 12:30 p.m.

The ferry will be running at the following times each day as regularly
scheduled:

Swan Quarter to Ocracoke:
7 a.m. and 1 p.m.

Ocracoke to Swan Quarter:
10 a.m. and 4 p.m.

For updates, call 1-800 BY FERRY.


Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter has information about the new island Folk School. Click here to read about this new venture.

Manteo & Points North

Lou Ann and I made an overnight trip this past weekend. We left on the 4 pm Hatteras ferry Saturday and drove to Manteo to spend some time with our good friend, Jim Fineman. Jim is a fine potter and a gracious host. This was the first time Lou Ann had an opportunity to see Jim's kiln and studio. It is a model of simplicity and efficiency.

That evening we went to see the Lost Colony, the oldest outdoor drama in the US. We'd both seen it before, but it was fun to be there with Jim. He knew lots of folks because he has worked in the Colony and is a long-time resident of Manteo. As a special treat, Eileen Fulton, soap opera star who began her acting career in the Lost Colony decades ago, gave a cameo performance. I have never been a soap opera fan, so I had no idea who she was, but everyone else seemed to know.

On Sunday Lou Ann and I toured the Elizabethan Gardens (beautiful, and well worth the time if you will be spending any time on Roanoke Island). We were inspired to stop at a nursery and purchase a car full of outdoor plants and bushes for our now pitiful, but soon to be attractive front yard.

In the afternoon we stopped to see the latest Harry Potter movie (I believe the last movie I've been to was in November of last year!). By the way, Books to be Red on School Road, will be hosting a Harry Potter party this Friday at 10:30 pm. Sales of the latest book will begin at midnight!

The ferry ride home at 8 o'clock was tranquil and relaxing. We enjoyed our weekend excursion, but were happy to be back home where life is a lot less hectic.

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter has information about the new island Folk School. Click here to read about this new venture.

Power

She had a flashlight in her hand as she called over the fence, "Do you know why the power is out?" I didn't, but it didn't concern me. My neighbor this week (I think she is from Virginia, here on vacation) wasn't exactly concerned, but seemed eager to know exactly what was going on. We who have lived on the island for a while are used to the power going out and don't much question it. It doesn't happen as frequently as it did in years past, but generally we simply continue what we were doing, while reaching for the matches and oil lamp.

Lou Ann was at Deepwater Theater enjoying a performance by Marcie and Lou and Friends when the lights blinked and went out. They continued the show with the help of a member of the audience who shined his flashlight onto the stage. By all accounts everyone had a great time.

Back home after the show, Lou Ann and I sat on the porch swing with a glass of wine, an oil lamp softly glowing on the table. All was quiet and serene, a fitting way to end the day.

We were disappointed when the lights all blinked back on and air conditioners started humming once more. So we went to bed.

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter has information about the new island Folk School. Click here to read about this new venture.

Fish Fry and Wine & Cheese

For such a small community there always seems to be a lot going on. Wednesday evening the Working Watermen's Association sponsored a fish fry in the parking lot of the Fish House. Three large fresh fillets, Cole slaw, bean salad, hush puppies, watermelon slices & cold drinks....how could you go wrong for $10.00? Homemade fig cake was only $2.00 extra. And all for a good cause -- to preserve Ocracoke's last working fish house.

Yesterday evening at 5:30 Lou Ann and I were invited to join the hosts and guests at the Cove Bed & Breakfast for wine, cheese, and crackers. Lou Ann had baked two loaves of French bread, so we carried one (still warm from the oven) with us. After an hour of pleasant conversation we biked back home to pull weeds from the front yard and plant two hydrangeas (called "high geraniums" by the older folks on the island).

Several neighbors strolled by while we were working, so we'd stop and chat across the fence (sort of like Loweezy and Elviney in the old Snuffy Smith cartoons). We didn't eat our dinner until after 9 o'clock.

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter has information about the new island Folk School. Click here to read about this new venture.

Windy Today....

....and sunny, though haze and storm clouds are in the forecast. It rained last night at about 9 o'clock. Lightning flashed in the distance, and thunder rumbled from afar. At first it was just broad, flat flashes, as if someone had flicked on a lamp beyond the trees and rooftops; then it was jagged streaks of brilliant white light, followed by loud thunderclaps moments later. In no time at all the low places were filled with puddles.

We can use the rain. For weeks cars passing by on Howard Street and Lawton Lane kicked up clouds of fine dust, and the sandy soil was parched and dry. Today the plants and trees are drinking in last night's rainfall. But the sun is shining once more. The sunny skies may not last, but right now everything is beautiful and full of life.

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter has information about the new island Folk School. Click here to read about this new venture.

Overcast

Whenever the weather is rainy or a tad dreary, especially mid-week days in July or August, we get prepared for a busy afternoon. Such days start out slow, but by noon the island is awash in visitors, mostly day-trippers from Hatteras, Nags Head, and everywhere in between. I understand that the Hatteras Inlet ferries have been running at full capacity for most of the day today.

The sky is still gray and somewhat somber, though we've had little rain (it did rain right much during the night). The Village Craftsmen is quietening down by this time of the afternoon, and soon Lou Ann and I will be sitting at our rustic old wooden table enjoying left over pot roast, vegetables, and homemade bread. It will be good to settle down for a few minutes and just relax.

Lou Ann and Amy will be leading ghost & history walks this evening (if the weather cooperates). I believe I'll stop by and visit some old friends who are on the island this week. I'll be home by 9:30 so Lou Ann and I can sit on the pizer (that's the front porch for newcomers to our journal) and toast the day with a glass of red wine.

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter has information about the new island Folk School. Click here to read about this new venture.

Adieu

This past Friday and Sunday Ocracokers bid farewell to two native islanders who had struggled with illness for a number of years. Ann Howard, who lived just up the lane from Village Craftsmen, was a kind and devoted mother with a wonderfully pleasant personality. She always had time to stop and visit, and she and her husband, Lindsey, raised three kind, generous, and extremely likable children. The memorial service at the Methodist Church on Friday was filled with music and warm memories of a wife, mother, neighbor, and friend, loved and admired by all.

On Sunday, family and friends of Hettie Tolson Johnson gathered on the lawn of Books to be Red for an uplifting service in celebration of her life. Hettie loved nature, gardening, Ocracoke, and Life. It was rare to see her without an infectious smile, or hearty laugh. As a fitting tribute, the service was upbeat. A table was arranged with colorful flowers, scores of photos stood nearby, island musicians played some of her favorite tunes, Jon Wynn, childhood friend captured Hettie's adventuresome spirit in his eulogy, and friends throughout the audience blew soap bubbles as the final song was sung. Afterwards, everyone shared a potluck dinner on the grounds.

Ocracokers know how to celebrate -- Life, Death, and everything in between -- in often unconventional ways, but always with creativity, originality, and respect.

Adieu Ann and Hettie. Your lives have been inspirations for us all.

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter has information about the new island Folk School. Click here to read about this new venture.

Another Evening's Entertainment

Last night at 8 pm the "Women of Ocrafolk Opry" presented an evening of songs & stories at Deepwater Theater. From middle schooler, Molly Lovejoy, to long-time veterans of the stage, a dozen talented women shared their musical skills (keyboard, voice, guitar, violin, bass, and mandolin), stories, and art (Kitty painted a large canvas on stage as the women performed) for a packed theater.

No admission was charged, but donations were solicited. At the end of the show almost $500 was donated for maintenance and upkeep of the facilities (this is the 10th anniversary of Deepwater Theater).

As we were turning out the lights and stacking the chairs the cast decided to celebrate at Howard's Pub. We pulled tables together and ate, drank, and chatted until midnight.

Island life is good.

Some of the performers (Marcie, Sundae, Jamie, Lou Ann, Deanna, Katie, & Kitty [Cynthia, Molly, Mya, Whisper, Caroline, & Kathleen are not in the photo]):



Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter has information about the new island Folk School. Click here to read about this new venture.

Dr. Village

With so much hype about "Dr. Beach" naming Ocracoke the No. 1 beach in the US, I decided to be "Dr. Village" for the July 4th parade. I named Ocracoke the No. 1 village in the US, and donned a sandwich board with ten reasons listed for my choice. I share them with you here:

1. Friendly Neighbors
2. Almost No Crime
3. Many Fine Restaurants
4. Home to Award Winning Musicians
5. Home of Quality Craft Galleries
6. Great Fishing & Surfing
   
7. No Walmart
   
8. No traffic lights
   
9. Proximity to No. 1 beach in US
10. Home of Dr. Village

Let us know if you agree with Dr. Village's choice, and if you have other reasons that Ocracoke is the No. 1 village in the US!

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter has information about the new island Folk School. Click here to read about this new venture.

Whew!

What a whirlwind holiday! Village Craftsmen was closed for the 4th of July. My brother Bud was here visiting....and so was Jim Fineman, good friend from Manteo. Along with Sue & Ed Norvel we had created what we considered the winning parade float -- a re-enactment of the appearance of the black bear on Ocracoke. Emmett Temple joined us at the last minute as a barking dog (he was great); Jim was the bear (Sue had made this terrific bear head and claws for him). But, alas, we did not win. It was great fun anyway.

I entered in a separate category as "Dr. Village." I had declared Ocracoke the No. 1 village in the US (proximity to the No. 1 beach was one criterion for the award). I didn't win either. What was wrong with those judges???? Check out the photos below.

The "Herd" skydivers gave a breathtaking show with their colorful parachutes and soft landings in front of the Pony Island Motel. The sand sculptures, as usual, were remarkable. After the parade Lou Ann and I hosted a shrimp boil and pot luck dinner for family & friends, then headed for the beach for the best fireworks display Ocracoke has ever had. We had "front row" seats. After the last rocket burst across the sky two shooting stars raced across the vault of heaven as if to remind us that every night on the island is filled with wonder.

The holiday was marred by a small marsh fire in the evening (quickly extinguished thanks to our capable Fire Department), an accident on the beach (a man lying in the sand was run over by a truck -- I understand that he suffered multiple broken bones), and another ocean drowning (please familiarize yourself with rip currents, and swim in the lifeguarded area if you have any question of your abilities, or ocean conditions). We are always saddened by these tragedies.

Yesterday was a time for us to recover from Wednesday's activities. By late in the afternoon we had cleaned and straightened the house, returned everything we'd borrowed, and stripped the pickup truck of bunting, signs, flags, and ribbons, before another family dinner and then an evening enjoying a Molasses Creek performance.

Following are a few photos from Ocracoke's Fourth of July Celebration.

Pirates of Pamlico Sound??



A Happy Fiddler Crab:



Lou Ann, Bud, Jim, Sue, & Ed:



Jim the Black Bear:



Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter has information about the new island Folk School. Click here to read about this new venture.

Happy Independence Day!

All of us at Village Craftsmen wish you all a Happy 4th of July!

Yard Sale Magic

Island life is so often serendipitous. That is one of the wonderful things about living here on Ocracoke. Yesterday Amy & David & Julie & Gary had a yard sale next door to the Village Craftsmen. At the end of the day, as I was walking home I noticed a small group of folks standing in the yard, surrounding a gentleman in a colorful hat. He had everyone's attention.

In his hand he was holding a length of white cord. He'd loop it, fold it over, knot it, and cut it. The cord miraculously joined back together. The knots untied themselves. Everyone was amazed.

I arrived late, so the crowd insisted that he show me his dollar trick. In front of my eyes he pulled out five one dollar bills. He handed them to me and I examined them. He took them back and held them between his thumb and index finger. In full view of his audience he twirled them around and around....and to everyone's astonishment they turned into five one hundred dollar bills!

Of course, we all were ready to pull out five dollar bills and have him work his magic with our money. But he was ready to move along. He lives in Florida, one of five generations of performers, magicians, animal trainers, and circus workers. He just stopped by to purchase a few yard sale items. And we got a free performance. He was one of the best close-up magicians I have ever seen.

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter has information about the new island Folk School. Click here to read about this new venture.

Sunset on Silver Lake

Lou Ann & I were sitting with friends last night alongside Silver Lake harbor. The ferry was just pulling out of its slip as the fiery red-orange orb of the sun was slipping behind the old Coast Guard Station. The western sky was aglow in streaks of color. A gull glided past searching for one last morsel before nightfall. Twas an evening for poets and minstrels and lovers.

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter has information about the new island Folk School. Click here to read about this new venture.

Cookies, Bread, & Neighbors

Lou Ann baked a batch of cookies yesterday (as well as two beautiful loaves of bread!). We ate a light supper while the bread was baking, then took it out of the oven and let it cool on the kitchen table (it was a major act of will to not slice into it right away). Lou Ann had a rehearsal at Deepwater Theater at 6 o'clock, so she needed to be on her way. She and a bunch of other island ladies will be doing a special performance this coming Saturday night (look for posters around the village).

So we walked across the lane to carry a tray of cookies to cousin Blanche, and to sit and visit for fifteen minutes. Then Lou Ann was off to the theater. I stayed a while longer, chatting about old times and new times.

After rehearsal Lou Ann and I sat down on the back porch with freshly baked bread, butter, two kinds of cheese, and a bottle of red wine. We even lit a candle and our copper yard torch. It was a lovely evening.

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter has information about the new island Folk School. Click here to read about this new venture.