Islands

Islands, the magazine, that is. Their latest issue (June, 2007) features a story on Ocracoke, starting on page 62. Author Ken McAlpine has been to the island several times, and has contributed this interesting article as one of three under the heading A Seafarer's Journal. If you get the chance check it out. There are some fine photos of Ocracoke as well. Even the cover shows Ocracoke's schooner Windfall sailing toward the coastline. Unfortunately, the captions (one on page 5, and another on page 62 with a broader view of the same scene) identify the area as Teach's Hole. It is not Teach's Hole.

Rob & Sundae called to talk about the misidentification. Rob says he's never been to whatever coast is shown in the magazine (in spite of the fact that his schooner is shown there). I even took the photo to Maurice Ballance (he is 80 years old and has lived on the island his entire life), and to Maurice's nephew, Gene (he has mapped every foot of Ocracoke's coastline). We all agree that this is not Teach's Hole. Gene emailed me the accompanying aerial photo of Teach's Hole and Springer's Point. I hope you enjoy this view. If you have the opportunity to see the magazine, compare both photos and you will see that they are two very different places.



Springer's Point juts out into Pamlico Sound in the upper left side of this photo. Red areas indicate tree cover. Also note the white sandy beaches. The "Old Slough" is the branching tidal creek in the center of the photo just below Springer's.

In addition to doing a little sleuthing, the afternoon turned into a wonderful visit with Maurice and Gene. Maurice, as usual, was barefooted. We walked together down the dirt path to Gene's house (after Maurice retrieved his "walking cane" from the back of his pickup truck). Our visit with Gene at an end, Maurice led me down another path to visit the graves of his parents, grandparents, great-grandparents, and other assorted relatives. There was even one ancient wooden marker (heart cedar, Maurice pointed out). Maurice's grandfather, Marcus (Mark) had owned 25 acres of land here Maurice remarked, gesturing wide with his outstretched arm.

My visit was too soon over. I headed back home, happy to have one more opportunity to learn about my home from another one of the old-timers.

This month's newsletter discusses the planned replacement of the seven bridges on Ocracoke Island in early 2008, and explains some of the issues we will face. You can read it here.

Aftermath

We're almost back to normal (well as normal as Ocracoke ever gets). The Swan Quarter & Cedar Island ferries are running again this morning. The strong winds have abated (wind velocity is only about 10 mph today), the sun is drying out the dampness, and shop doors are reopening. Word from UPS has it that a portion of the road on Hatteras Island is still covered with sand from ocean overwash, so their truck won't be traveling to the island until tomorrow. But we understand that the DOT is working hard to open Highway 12 sometime this morning. All the while life just continues to flow here on Ocracoke.

This month's newsletter discusses the planned replacement of the seven bridges on Ocracoke Island in early 2008, and explains some of the issues we will face. You can read it here.

Latest Info

I received the following email this afternoon:

"Currently on Ocracoke: cloudy, winds from the NNE gusting 44-53 knots (courtesy N. C. Ferry Division Ocracoke). Highest wind recorded overnight was 63. There is minor flooding in areas facing the sound (high tide last hour), such as the rear of Jackson Dunes and Tom Neal Drive. Some water is seen under a few of the houses in Oyster Creek, some of which accumulated from waves crashing into bulkheads. Water levels are right at the bulkhead in much of Oyster Creek. NC 12 on Ocracoke is open with no major issues, maybe only a "trickle" across the North end. No ferries are currently running. Dare County reports sand and water on NC 12 in northern Rodanthe and road is closed, possibly into Tuesday.

Luckily, there has been no known damage, no power outages, no emergency incidents, etc.

Thanks

Tony Spencer

Hyde Co Emergency Management

P O Box 95, Swan Quarter, NC 27885

Office: 252-926-4374 - Fax: 926-3701

Cell: 542-0805 - Emergency: 926-3171

tspencer@hydecountync.gov - KI4KRY"

This month's newsletter discusses the planned replacement of the seven bridges on Ocracoke Island in early 2008, and explains some of the issues we will face. You can read it here.

Stranded

"We went to the Variety Store and bought toothpaste and deodorant," they told me yesterday. "Wish we'd packed our bags. Now we'll be wearing the same clothes until the ferries start running again."

These folks were some of those who came to the island yesterday for a day trip, and ended up spending the night. Maybe two nights. The wind is gusting to 40 mph or more as I write. Trees are bending in the wind, the air is sharp, and the ferries are tied securely to the docks.

Locals are taking it in stride. It's one of the consequences of living on an island. Honestly, many of us like being cut off from the outside world, at least for a while. We are reminded of our special place here on the Outer Banks.

Remembering Hurricane Alex three years ago, some islanders have moved their cars to higher ground. Already, Jude says, the tidewater in the creek in front of her house is just about ready to spill over into her yard. And we've heard reports that the ocean has washed over the road on Hatteras Island.

We'll keep you posted.

This month's newsletter discusses the planned replacement of the seven bridges on Ocracoke Island in early 2008, and explains some of the issues we will face. You can read it here.

Weather

Living on the Outer Banks is never dull. I awoke this morning to trees swaying outside my bedroom window. In my outdoor shower I watched as branches bent and gently touched the roof of my out building. I didn't think too much of it until I received a phone call from Jude. Apparently the weather service is calling for increased winds (maybe as high as 60-70 mph) later today & through tomorrow, with a chance of beach erosion and soundside flooding.

Visitors I've spoken to are planning to leave, hoping the ferries will be running when they get to the dock. Me? I think I'll finish a few tasks I've set for myself this morning, then close up shop for the day (I've only had two customers all morning!). Then I'll put my car on a small hill and take the rest of the day off.

I'll let you know tomorrow how we fared.

(In answer to Jamie's comment on Wednesday's journal entry, the book is A Treasury of American Anecdotes, Sly, Salty, Shaggy Stories of Heroes and Hellions, Beguilers and Buffoons, Spellbinders and Scapegoats, Gagsters and Gossips, from the Grassroots & Sidewalks of America, edited by B.A. Botkin. Is that a great title or what? The story in the book of the Greatest Tobacco Chewer on Ocracoke Island is one that was told to me several years ago by one of the island old-timers. It is short, but fun. I'll include it in a future Ocracoke Newsletter. Keep looking for it in the next few months.)

This month's newsletter discusses the planned replacement of the seven bridges on Ocracoke Island in early 2008, and explains some of the issues we will face. You can read it here.

Friday Night Poker

The house is old, the ceilings low and the stairs steep. Painted on the risers are these words: "Watch Your Step. It May Be Your Last." The walls are unpainted tongue and groove pine....that is, where there are walls. The kitchen is just exposed ancient heart pine framing members. There is an old metal bed in the downstairs bedroom, and a dresser pushed up against the wall. A few simple chairs and a table or two adorn the living room. A wooden cable spool, covered with seashells, rests on the screened in porch. Across the dirt road, past the marsh grass, a lonely red light flashes languidly on a channel marker. In the distance I hear the distinctive "quawk" of a night heron. A few scattered stars peek out from an overcast sky.

Inside, six friends sit around the poker table. Nearby, scribbled on the wall are the penciled accounts of the 1933 & 1944 hurricanes ("14 foot tides," "Island completely under water," ""3 feet of water pounding through this cottage, "Porch blown off and front windows shattered"). But this night is quiet. We push the windows open and prop them up with sticks lying on the sills. Only a gentle breeze rustles the cotton curtains.

We play until midnight.

I get on my bike and pedal through the dark, silent village. On Lawton Lane I spy my porch light welcoming me home. I walk up my stairs, crawl into bed, and fall asleep.

This month's newsletter discusses the planned replacement of the seven bridges on Ocracoke Island in early 2008, and explains some of the issues we will face. You can read it here.

OISFT

That's the Ocracoke Invitational Surf Fishing Tournament which kicked off Wednesday night with a gathering at Howard's Pub. This is the 24th annual tournament, and teams of anglers return year after year for some of the best surf fishing on the East Coast, as well as a rollicking good time. Sixty-six teams (including more than two dozen all female teams) compete all day Thursday and all day today.

Last night the Ocracoke Rockers entertained them at Howard's Pub until midnight. This evening at 5:30 the tournament hosts a pig pickin' under the tent at the Community Center. Afterwards judges will hand out awards, then everyone heads back to the Pub for another party. You can't say these folks don't know how to have fun.

But in addition to fishing and partying, the OISFT sponsors several local causes. Last year the board presented the Ocracoke school a $500.00 check for the Sigma Willis Memorial Scholarship Fund, donated $3000.00 to the Ocracoke Volunteer Fire Department, $500.00 to the Ocracoke/Hyde County Rescue Squad, and $500.00 to the Ocracoke School Booster Club.

Good luck to all the fisherfolk!

This month's newsletter discusses the planned replacement of the seven bridges on Ocracoke Island in early 2008, and explains some of the issues we will face. You can read it here.

Graveyards Again

On and off today I've been visiting the family graveyards across the lane. There is really so much history there, much of it buried with the souls who lie under the shade of the oaks and cedars and yaupons. Nevertheless a lot of the history can be teased out by carefully reading the dates and epitaphs. Still more, the best stories and details come when I walk among the tombs with cousin Blanche.

Who is buried here, with this large heavy stone as a marker? There is no inscription. I know he was a sea captain. What is his story? And what about this concrete post? Whose grave is this? And Esther O'Neal....is this the midwife everyone called Aunt Hettie Tom? I know there was no doctor. How many babies did she birth? What about these four tiny markers with inscriptions on each side? Of course, these are the graves of eight children buried side by side. What a tragedy. I wonder how they all died. How did the Braggs come to be buried in the Howard cemetery? Was it during the "time of the blowing sand?" What was that like? And is this Agnes Scott really kin to the woman who gave her name to Agnes Scott College in Georgia? And how did she wind up on Ocracoke Island? One more thing -- where was Evans Howard buried before his brother dug him up and reburied him years later, and why did he do that?

Come on out to the island for the Ocrafolk Festival the first weekend in June. And stay nearby when I take the stage with Blanche on Howard Street. We'll be taking about the family graveyards and you'll hear answers to all of the questions above. In the process you'll get another glimpse into island life of generations past.

This month's newsletter discusses the planned replacement of the seven bridges on Ocracoke Island in early 2008, and explains some of the issues we will face. You can read it here.

Ocracoke & the Internet

As regular readers know, I prefer to shop locally. I buy almost all of my books from Leslie at Books to be Red on School Road. I almost never go off the island to do grocery shopping, preferring to trade here at home. I purchase Frank's "Andromeda Soaps" right here at Village Craftsmen. And I make lists (like nearly everyone else on the island), so that when I do go away I can stop "up the beach" as we say, and stock up on things that I can't get on the island.

But every now and then I need something that I can't get locally. That's when the internet sure comes in handy. I just received a used book (published in 1957) in the mail yesterday. It cost all of 21 cents (a bit more for postage!), but it had one section entitled The Greatest Tobacco Chewer on Ocracoke Island. I couldn't resist. And today I ordered a small tankless water heater to replace our leaking heater at Village Craftsmen. And I'm looking on line for a ceiling fan for my back porch -- one designed for damp or wet conditions.

Sometimes the modern world impinges on island life, and it's not always such a bad thing. Nevertheless, we're still skeptical of many things "of the mainland." It's all a matter of balance, I guess.

This month's newsletter discusses the planned replacement of the seven bridges on Ocracoke Island in early 2008, and explains some of the issues we will face. You can read it here.

Restaurants

Yesterday a reader asked about island restaurants. The question was, "Any new restaurants opening this year and is Pony Island going to be opened for dinner? I know last year they stopped dinners."

There is a new restaurant, Mango Loco, located where Sargasso Grill was last year, on NC Highway 12. I don't eat out often and have not been to Mango Loco yet (I understand though that they have the biggest selection of Caribbean food on the island). Maybe one of our readers has a comment.

According to the latest advertisement in the Ocracoke Observer the Pony Island Restaurant is open for breakfast from 7 am to 2 pm. They also serve lunch from 11 am to 2 pm.

My daughter, Amy, an island waitress, tells me that all of the restaurants are now open for the season. (Earlier today I posted that the Ocracoke Coffee Company has opened, but I'm told that will not be for a little while yet.) Let us know if you have recommendations.

This month's newsletter discusses the planned replacement of the seven bridges on Ocracoke Island in early 2008, and explains some of the issues we will face. You can read it here.

Graveyards

It's springtime and the grasses, weeds, and vines (especially poison ivy) are growing prolifically. This morning I decided it was time to do some trimming and cutting in the graveyards. I don't do landscaping and I'm not much for flowers (only occasionally do I add I few wildflowers). I'm content to let much of the natural vegetation climb up the fences and drop down from overhanging tree limbs. But I cut down the tall grass and sprouting weeds and shrubs that would threaten to overtake the graves. It is a satisfying chore. Outside, in the morning air, the dappled shadows on the marble tombstones, I worked among the spirits of ancestors -- my mother and father, Grandpapa Homer & Grandmama Aliph, Aunt Tressie and Uncle Wheeler, as well as assorted other relatives. Just one more opportunity to connect with the past in this small village.



This month's newsletter discusses the planned replacement of the seven bridges on Ocracoke Island in early 2008, and explains some of the issues we will face. You can read it here.

Working

Sometimes I have to be reminded of how different island life is from the typical American life. I've been working this morning....but it's been quiet here on Howard Street. David stopped by with Lachlan, and since there were no customers I walked outside with them and watched as the young-un pushed a stick through the sand, climbed on graveyard fences, or ran up and down the lane.

Before I knew it, it was noon, so I walked around the corner to my house. David & Lachlan came along, and Julie & Gary were there too. We had plenty of food for lunch -- cold shrimp, cole slaw, salad, homemade rolls, and more.

As we were cleaning up I asked Gary what he was up to today. "Oh," he said, "We biked around the village this morning. I think I'll go out to the dump this afternoon and salvage a few bike parts." I think David will be adding some finishing touches to his new kitchen cabinets this afternoon. I was the only one "really working."

But even I had a few minutes to lie in the hammock before heading back around the corner to the Village Craftsmen. Maybe I'll have customers. Even so, it won't be your typical work day.

This month's newsletter discusses the planned replacement of the seven bridges on Ocracoke Island in early 2008, and explains some of the issues we will face. You can read it here.

Stories & More Stories

"You can't visit with an Ocracoker for more than ten minutes before talk turns to distant relatives and how everyone is kin." So observed my brother this weekend. Earl O'Neal has just completed his nearly 700 page tome on the Howard family (and the Jacksons, Garrishes, and Stowes) of Ocracoke. As Earl explained over dinner last night, they were all intermarried, so a study of one meant a study of them all. Earl's book is full of detailed genealogical information, as well as photos, copies of wills, deeds, & other documents, and stories & history.

After dinner we sat in the living room, shared tales, and laughed til nearly midnight. We all agreed that the best stories could never be printed. That's why we must keep telling them in parlors, around kitchen tables, and along the lanes. If you stick around here long enough, and are patient, maybe you'll hear one of the better stories too.

This month's newsletter discusses the planned replacement of the seven bridges on Ocracoke Island in early 2008, and explains some of the issues we will face. You can read it here.

Not Much News

Just a brief note for today. Family & friends have been visiting, so we've been chatting and catching up on news. Haven't been out and about much, nor have I heard much about local goings-on. So that's it for this Friday. Maybe I'll have something to report tomorrow.


This month's newsletter discusses the planned replacement of the seven bridges on Ocracoke Island in early 2008, and explains some of the issues we will face. You can read it here.

Family & Friends

This afternoon I am expecting a visit from my brother. The weather is looking fine, so maybe he'll want to walk on the beach, or just sit on the pizer and read until I get off work. Amy & David & Lachlan are coming over this evening with their house guest, Jule, from Berlin, to join us for a boiled shrimp dinner. Tomorrow some other cousins are planning to come to the island also and we'll have a larger family gathering for dinner and chatting about old times. Blanche says she's coming too, so we'll have our "keeper of island traditions and family lore" to help keep our stories straight.

This month's newsletter discusses the planned replacement of the seven bridges on Ocracoke Island in early 2008, and explains some of the issues we will face. You can read it here.

More Shells

The other day a customer asked me where the best place was to look for seashells. I explained that there isn't any one particular stretch of the beach that is better than another, and that, furthermore, it's not like it was decades ago before such easy access to the beach by so many people. "You might be lucky and find an unbroken shell," I said, "but don't be disappointed if you don't"

The very next day I spied a section of beach littered with mostly broken shells. But amongst the fragments I located several nice specimens, including one nearly perfect lettered olive. The black object below is actually fairly common. It is a skate egg case, or what Ocracokers call a "Devil's Pocketbook."



This month's newsletter discusses the planned replacement of the seven bridges on Ocracoke Island in early 2008, and explains some of the issues we will face. You can read it here.

A Day Off

What a fine day to take a day off from work. I'm thinking of yesterday (today would be another such day, but I will be working all day today). Monday's temperatures were in the 70s with a light breeze. The sun was bright and cheery.

Amy's good friend from Berlin, Jule, is visiting this week. We decided to take a stroll through the woods (a small maritime forest) and along the sound shore, but first we stopped at the bank and the post office to run a few errands. Jule smiled at how we greeted or talked with just about everyone along the way. I guess the citizens of Berlin don't all know each other by name. Out by the water we watched pleasure boats, a trawler followed by dozens of seagulls, and the Swan Quarter ferry.

Mid day I spent an hour at the beach. (See yesterday's post for a photo of the shipwreck that is exposed.)

Later Capt. Rob invited us to join him and his crew for a sunset cruise on his schooner, the Windfall. Lachlan went with us. I believe it was his first time on a sailboat. He was fascinated to see his favorite landmarks (the lighthouse, the old Coast Guard station, Springer's Point) from a new vantage point. Jule had never been on a schooner before either.

We had a great day.

This month's newsletter discusses the planned replacement of the seven bridges on Ocracoke Island in early 2008, and explains some of the issues we will face. You can read it here.

Wooden Skeleton

It lay on the beach quiet and serene. Sixty feet long, and about four yards wide, it was a silent reminder of tragedy at sea many years ago. I stumbled across the wreck a couple of days ago, and went back this afternoon to take some photos. I mentioned the wreck to Blanche over her picket fence. "Where is it?" she wanted to know. I told her. She thought for a few moments. "You know I think that could be the remains of the Nomis," she offered.

The 134 foot Nomis wrecked on Ocracoke beach in August of 1935. She was one of the last schooners to meet her end on the island. It was as if History itself has surfaced for a while. In due time the blowing sands will re-bury the beams and spikes. In the meanwhile we can only wonder what it was like on the fateful day more than seventy years ago.

You can click on the photos below to view larger images.






This month's newsletter discusses the planned replacement of the seven bridges on Ocracoke Island in early 2008, and explains some of the issues we will face. You can read it here.

A Spring Walk

What a terrific day for a walk through the woods and along the sound shore! Finally spring has arrived, with temperatures in the mid-70s. Lachlan and I stopped at Tom Pahl's house first and inspected his chicken yard. We peeked into the coop but none of the hens was laying this morning. No eggs. So we proceeded on down the path, stopping to identify trees and shrubs -- cedar, myrtle, yaupon, live oak....but Lachlan's favorite (at least his favorite to point out) was poison ivy. And my, was it growing in thick profusion. We kept our distance. Along the shore we watched boats motor past, and stopped to inspect several jellyfish floating in the ripples by the beach. Of course we had to climb a tree or two and put some seeds out for the birds. All in all it was a fun way to spend a sunny spring morning.

This month's newsletter discusses the planned replacement of the seven bridges on Ocracoke Island in early 2008, and explains some of the issues we will face. You can read it here.

Family Photo

A couple of days ago my brother sent me an envelope with a few old pictures he found while organizing his things. My favorite is this one:



This photo was taken about 1948. Notice the helmet shell on the landing. I am sitting beside my mother. My grandmother Aliph is on the porch swing. This is the same house I now live in, on Lawton Lane. Wonderful memories!

This month's newsletter discusses the planned replacement of the seven bridges on Ocracoke Island in early 2008, and explains some of the issues we will face. You can read it here.

Moon Snail

April has been unseasonably cold this year. Folks walk into the Village Craftsmen bundled up in heavy jackets, wool hats, and scarves. Babies are wrapped in blankets, and toddlers wear mittens and caps.

The air at the beach is sharp and cuts through layers of clothes. Yesterday the sand raced across the flats, obliterating my footprints as I walked. It found its way through seams in my shoes, into my socks, and between my toes. I trudged along, hood pulled tight around my face, my head down to protect it from the stinging wind. And that's how I spotted this beautiful moon snail washed up on the beach.



This month's newsletter discusses the planned replacement of the seven bridges on Ocracoke Island in early 2008, and explains some of the issues we will face. You can read it here.

Bridge Replacements

The North Carolina Department of Transportation has slated the seven half-century old bridges on Ocracoke Island for replacement in early 2008. The work will be completed within a 75 day period from the beginning of January next year to mid-March. Many issues are being worked out to ensure the least disruption to island life during that period. Please read our latest newsletter for more information. And check back here regularly. We will keep you posted as any new information becomes available.

The Southern Cottage

The Southern Cottage from the Blue Ridge Mountains to the Florida Keys by Susan Sully just came out last week. A 208 page book richly illustrated with Susan's color photographs, The Southern Cottage features 18 homes, mostly modest cottages representative of southern architecture. Pages 106 - 115 highlight my home on Ocracoke Island. Eight photos and four pages of text document the house and offer a glimpse into Lou Ann's and my life on the island.

Needless to say, having my home chosen to be among the best representations of southern cottages has been exciting. All of Susan's photographs are stunningly beautiful, and I can say with confidence that she portrays the residences (or at least my residence) with integrity and sensitivity to genuineness.

The next time you are in your favorite bookstore (for me that would be Books to be Red on School Road right here in Ocracoke) take a look at the book. I think you'll be impressed.

This month's Ocracoke Newsletter tells how to make a traditional wooden whistle from a myrtle branch. You can read the newsletter here.

Stormy Weather

Well, the north winds finally have arrived. About 1:30 this morning I was awakened by the whistling and howling of the storm. Out my bedroom window the trees were cavorting & dancing with each other. A screen door was banging and the porch rockers were moving in rhythm with the gusts. I walked downstairs and unhooked one side of my porch swing and let it rest on the floor. I turned the rockers over. I even took my flashlight and checked to see if tree limbs were brushing against my car. On the way back inside I hooked the screen door, then crawled back into bed.

This morning I called a neighbor. His home weather station had recorded gusts of only 40 mph (not the 60 mph predicted), but the ten-minute averages were 20-30 mph for several hours.

It's still blowing out there, with gusts of about 20 - 25 mph. The rain is over. School children dressed in pink jackets, bright red coats, and yellow hooded sweatshirts are walking down Howard Street on a mini-field trip. The sun is bright and the sky is "Carolina blue" with an occasional cotton ball cloud passing by. Weather like this makes you feel alive.

This month's Ocracoke Newsletter tells how to make a traditional wooden whistle from a myrtle branch. You can read the newsletter here.

Storm?

Yesterday the weather forecast was calling for strong winds (with gusts up to 60mph) after midnight and throughout today, along with high tides and coastal flooding. Most of the visitors, anticipating ocean overwash on NC highway 12, left the island yesterday. A friend who traveled home down the Outer Banks on Saturday said there was a steady stream of north-bound traffic that made it impossible to pass (but since he was almost the only car heading south he never needed to pass!).

Right now (it's almost 3:30 in the afternoon) the wind gusts are probably little more than 20 - 25 miles an hour, but appear to be increasing. The trees are swaying and the windows are starting to rattle (sort of like a mini hurricane). At any rate, we have not gotten anywhere near 60 mph winds, at least not yet. Only time will tell if we have significant tides and/or flooding later this evening or early tomorrow morning. Just in case, I've put my car up on a small hill.

Since most visitors left yesterday many island shops, including Village Craftsmen, closed for today. It was a good day to catch up on long-neglected chores. But I'm ready to quit now. Some friends are coming over for dinner tonight, so I suppose I'd better go put something on the stove. I'll let you know tomorrow if this storm amounts to anything.

This month's Ocracoke Newsletter tells how to make a traditional wooden whistle from a myrtle branch. You can read the newsletter here.

Turtles

Jude wants me to be sure to tell you that the turtles are back. Because she lives right on the tail end of a tidal creek on the edge of the marsh she has the pleasure of watching quite a lot of wildlife from her deck. She and Frank routinely see egrets, blue herons, and other wading birds, as well as ducks, geese, and the occasional nutria. But the critters she talks about the most, and the ones she is most fond of, are the turtles. She hates to see them disappear in the cold winter months, but is delighted when they return in the spring. You can just see the sparkle in her eyes when she talks about the turtles. I believe she thinks it's like the swallows returning to Capistrano.

Maybe I'll carry Lachlan over to Jude's one day this coming week so we can help feed the turtles.

This month's Ocracoke Newsletter tells how to make a traditional wooden whistle from a myrtle branch. You can read the newsletter here.

Archaeology Adventures

A couple of days ago I received an email from Anne Poole of the Lost Colony Center for Science and Research in Manteo, NC. They have some exciting weekend archaeological events planned for this summer. I thought some of our readers might be interested, so I am sharing her email with you all. If you join them, maybe you will drop us a note afterwards.

"Hello Everyone !

"Summer is right around the corner, and we at The Lost Colony Center for Science and Research have exciting adventures planned for the season ! You are invited to join in with us on any of our research week-ends ! All events are very reasonably priced and will allow you to participate in hands-on archaeology, helping us learn and discover more about what happened to the mysterious band of colonists from 1587 on Roanoke Island !

"Our first event begins on Friday, June 8, at our research center in the Jamesville Community near Washington, NC. Registration begins at 12 noon, followed by an afternoon of learning about the history of Sir Walter Raleigh's Lost Colonists and our research in trying to locate where they went, and also a basic class on "how-to" archaeology. Supper is on your own that night, but we'll suggest local restaurants. You'll spend Friday night and Saturday night at the research center, which is like an inside camping trip...complete with bathrooms and running water ! On Saturday morning, we will provide a light breakfast, and then we'll go on our all day field trip to one of four sites, all of which have connections and / or artifacts connecting to what we believe to be the colonists. One site in particular we are excited about, as we have found a hand dug well, which is what the colonists would have done. This is also an area where we have found a very, very, old burial ground, which MAY be connected to The Lost Colony. After returning from this field trip late Saturday afternoon, we will also provide supper for you with a cook-out. If you happen to be there on a lucky week-end, you may be eating steak ! Or, you may be lucky and have hot dogs and hamburgers ! Either way, we'll make sure you are well fed before bedding down that night ! You can leave on Sunday at any time you want to.

"These events will run every week-end throughout the summer, and most likely into early fall. The total cost is $150 per person, and includes the two nights at the center and the two meals. We are also doing two special week-ends. On the week-ends of June 29 and July 6, we will be at our official Lost Colony motel in Buxton, NC, on the famous Outer Banks of NC ! This was known in the 16th century as Croatan, the home of the friendly Indians to the colonists, and Manteo's mother's village.

"This area is a VERY important archaeological site, and we will be doing the event there on the site. If you are interested in these week-ends, you need to contact me for more information.

"We also have another special event, which will include living on our 36' research sailboat, and going through the sounds on it to get to other sites not accessible by foot. If you are interested in this event, you also need to contact me for details.

"Also, if you are interested in the Buxton event, you are responsible for making your own motel reservations, and need to contact me ASAP for details. The actual artifact hunt and classes will be much cheaper since you are responsible for everything else.

"We are taking reservations now for these week-ends, so let me know which ones you are interested in before they fill up ! Feel free to contact me for any questions !

"Anne Poole,
The Lost Colony Center for Science and Research"

This month's Ocracoke Newsletter tells how to make a traditional wooden whistle from a myrtle branch. You can read the newsletter here.

Virginia Woolf

Last night a group of about two dozen islanders gathered at the home of Leonard Meeker for a pot luck dinner. As usual, there was a table full of delicious dishes, from home made bread to lemon curd & almond ice cream, and everything in between. The evening was about more than eating, however. It was a celebration of the 125th birthday of Virginia Woolf (OK, we were a few months late). Unfortunately I am not as literary as many of the other folks, and had only read 28 pages of To the Lighthouse (I only picked up the book at 11 p.m. the night before), but was fascinated by Woolf's life, her literary gifts, and the insights so many of my neighbors had. It certainly was an inspiration, and you can be sure I will finish my book (though I may have to wait until this busy week is over).

If any of our readers would like to share Virginia Woolf quotations or anecdotes just click on the "comments" link below. We'd be happy to hear from you.

This month's Ocracoke Newsletter tells how to make a traditional wooden whistle from a myrtle branch. You can read the newsletter here.

Ghost & History Walks

Several days ago a reader added this comment to our daily journal:

"Philip, as a frequent visitor to the island, one of the pleasures I enjoy is 'discovering' something new each time I visit -- a new place, new insight into the island's history, etc.Your latest entry mentions your Ghost & History Walks. For those of us who've never had the pleasure, can you share some insights or provide a link where we can find more details about the walks? As always, appreciate your posts. Cheers."

We (that is my daughter, Amy; Lou Ann; & I) offer ghost & history walking tours of the village of Ocracoke every Tuesday and Friday during the "season" at 7:30 in the evening. We started last week and will continue into the fall. We all enjoy sharing the stories and history, and a number of folks have signed up for the tours two or more times. You can read more about them here.

This month's Ocracoke Newsletter tells how to make a traditional wooden whistle from a myrtle branch. You can read the newsletter here.

Snow, Sleet, & Hail

A belated Happy Easter to all of our readers! Didn't write a journal entry yesterday. We all need a day off now and then.

This weekend was strange. At least the weather has been. Saturday started out cold and blustery -- somewhat unusual for mid-April, at least the cold was. Then a customer walked in and said she had seen snow earlier in the day. That was hard to believe, but not long after that I looked out the window and it was snowing....or sleeting....or hailing. I couldn't tell which. I walked outside to see. It was an odd, "clumpy" snow. It wasn't hail or sleet, but it wasn't normal snowflakes either. And it only lasted for a few minutes.

Later on we did have a bit of sleet, and at one point a little rain. In between it all the sun would come out and brighten the day. Like I said, it was strange.

A brief historical note: Yesterday was the 146th anniversary of the wreck of the brig "Black Squall." The Black Squall was loaded with sugar or circus animals, depending on which accounts you read. Maybe it was both. But the circus animals have provided Ocracokers with a wonderfully eccentric story that I must share with all of our readers. But that will have to wait for another day.

This month's Ocracoke Newsletter tells how to make a traditional wooden whistle from a myrtle branch. You can read the newsletter here.

Hattie

On this date in 1887 the sharpie "Hattie" with a crew of two was stranded in Pamlico Sound on nearby "Legged Lump." The crew was aground for several days with nothing to eat. When the Life Saving Crew arrived they all "got overboard and work[ed] hard to get her off as they was in a bad condition...." But the effort failed. They tried again on the next flood tide but were forced to leave the vessel there over night. The next morning, after more than three hours of hard work, they succeeded in freeing the Hattie. Keeper James Howard reported that the captain said "they wold have to....starve if it wold not bin for our service."

Today would not be a good day to be stranded in Pamlico Sound. It is barely 40 degrees this morning, and the winds are blowing more than 30 miles per hour. Where has spring gone? But at least it's above freezing, and we don't have snow. And we know this cold snap won't last forever.

This month's Ocracoke Newsletter tells how to make a traditional wooden whistle from a myrtle branch. You can read the newsletter here.

Reconnecting

This is the time of year when frequent visitors to the island stop by to say hello. We've begun our Ghost & History Walks this week, and on both tours I've had folks who have joined me in years past. It is always good to speak with regular visitors and know that they appreciate the people and culture of Ocracoke Island. Also yesterday a distant cousin (3rd cousin ??) from Maryland stopped by to chat. As one neighbor said once, Ocracoke is one of those places where people talk about things that happened in the early 1800s and bystanders might think it happened yesterday.

Oh, by the way, yesterday's overcast skies quickly morphed into a bright, cheery, sun-filled day. Cool and a bit breezy, as today, but otherwise a perfect spring day.

This month's Ocracoke Newsletter tells how to make a traditional wooden whistle from a myrtle branch. You can read the newsletter here.

A Pewter Sky on Thursday

We knew the balmy spring weather was about to end. It was in the weather reports, and it was the talk of the village. But we didn't want to believe it.

Actually, it's still in the upper 50s this morning, although the sky is gray and overcast. There are more folks on the island this week (spring break in northern Virginia, Ohio, and central North Carolina), so we expect to see many of them on Howard Street later in the day (I don't think it will be a stellar beach day). For those of us who live here, I believe most of us would rather stay home and curl up with a good book or mess about in the house or shed, but alas it's back to work on a regular schedule.

Life could be worse -- a lot worse.

This month's Ocracoke Newsletter tells how to make a traditional wooden whistle from a myrtle branch. You can read the newsletter here.

Thunderstorm

Early this morning I awoke before dawn to the rumble of distant thunder. In a hypnopompic daze I stumbled to the window and lowered the sash near my bed. As I fell back to sleep the thunder grew louder and rain splattered on the roof. I slept through the rest of the storm, but awoke to a blissful near-silence. Downstairs no refrigerator motor hummed. On the mantle the pendulum clock ticked and tocked, and a bird sang in the distance, but that was all. A few clouds still scudded by overhead, but bright sunlight peeked out now and then.

It was our first thunderstorm of the year. And it was refreshing.

The electricity was still off as I ate my breakfast at 8 o'clock. I was having my first reservations about having installed an on-demand water heater two years ago when the power suddenly came back on.

This month's Ocracoke Newsletter tells how to make a traditional wooden whistle from a myrtle branch. You can read the newsletter here.

Getting Back "In the Groove"

Coming back home is always a tad bitter-sweet. When you live in a beautiful place like Ocracoke it's a lot sweet, as most of our readers can imagine....but it was hard to see Lou Ann walk down the airport terminal alone, heading back to Indiana. We had such a wonderful trip last week. She'll be back in June, and that's a good thing.

Back home, of course, I found my inbox packed with spam (as well as several emails to reply to), my post office box full of bills that need to be paid, and my car still packed with a tent, sleeping bags, camping equipment, and dirty clothes. But the sun is bright and cheery, and neighbors' smiles and waves welcome me back to a community like few others. If only I didn't have to work! But, then again, at least I can work barefooted if I want to! Ocracoke is a good place to come home to, even after a terrific vacation.

This month's Ocracoke Newsletter tells how to make a traditional wooden whistle from a myrtle branch. You can read the newsletter here.

Hello Again!

Hi. This is Philip. I've been away for a while -- well not "away away" the whole time. Spent a week helping my son rewire his house, then enjoyed a bit of island time without many responsibilities. This last week Lou Ann & I took a little trip -- went to see her son and daughter-in-law, and had a few other adventures. Among our excursions we included a wonderful four hour canoe trip (seven miles) through the Ocala (Florida) National Forest. We missed the alligators, but did see about two dozen turtles and one very large rattlesnake. I was paddling backwards against the current to get a better look when I realized that Lou Ann was paddling just as hard trying to get away. Finally he slithered back into the underbrush. Just as well, I guess.

We had a super trip with lots of laughter, great talks, terrific swimming, walking, and fascinating history. Alas, it was too brief.

But I'm back home again, ready for a busy two weeks. Stop by and say hello when you're next on the island.

This month's Ocracoke Newsletter tells how to make a traditional wooden whistle from a myrtle branch. You can read the newsletter here.

Ocracoke's First Traffic Light

After years of increased traffic on Ocracoke residents have been calling for the installation of traffic signals at the island's busiest intersections. One of the most notorious intersections is where Lawton Lane joins Howard Street. It was here in 1925 that the island's very first traffic accident occurred, when Mr. Will Willis and Mr. Albert Styron had a head-on collision (theirs were the only two vehicles on the island at the time).

This photo, taken by Linda Rippe of the Ocracoke Observer, was made shortly after the installation of the light. The backup of traffic is testimony to the urgent need for even more signals. Click here for more information.

This month's Ocracoke Newsletter tells how to make a traditional wooden whistle from a myrtle branch. You can read the newsletter here.

The first Observer

Yesterday when I was closing the shop I met Linda Rippe delivering the first "Ocracoke Observer" of the year. For those of you who don't know, the Observer is our local monthly newspaper. It's always a sure sign of spring, sort of like seeing the first robin. Frank says my analogies are a little off but what does he know? The April Observer has an article on the new sidewalks, the new book by Pat Garber celebrating the heritage of Ocracoke's wild ponies, a well deserved salute to the Ocracoke Volunteer Fire Department and a story about the old Doxsee clam factory. We have good news. Dr. Moore, who left Ocracoke in 2004 will be back with us again starting mid-April. He's a wonderful fellow and we're so glad to have him back . There's an article on the Highway 12 replacement of our six bridges next winter. We're all very concerned about that situation. There's a great letter to the editor by Merle Smith Davis asking for kinder and gentler dialog no matter what our point of view. Amen to that! And, there is so much more packed into this edition including a really neat surprise. Pick one up next time you're on the island or better yet subscribe so you can keep up with " all the news that's fit to print on Ocracoke".

(Posted by Jude)

Here's the link to read all about the whistle: http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/news031807.htm

Spring Cleaning

I just finished spring cleaning the "back" of Village Craftsmen. The back consists of my office, the stockroom and the room where new merchandise is received and priced and mailorders are processed for shipping. That area is fondly (?) known as the "Jude Wing". Last year I didn't get to clean it because I had a double knee replacement in February and was still recouping. So this spring - WHEW - what a job! It took almost two full weeks but darlin' it's spiffy now! I've dared everyone in the place to mess it up on threat of death. Well, maybe not death but something close. Spring Cleaning - can't wait to start at home - getting rid of, scrubbing, flinging open windows and letting in fresh warm breezes and sunshine, seeing flowers start to bloom, the birth of baby ducks and geese. It's time for the winter doldrums and cobwebs to be swept away by the joy and eternal optimism of spring. The possibilities are endless and the turtles will be back.....any day.

(Posted by Jude)

Here's the link to read all about the whistle: http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/news031807.htm

Almost Over

Dallie and I were talking this morning about "offseason". Again, things are just different in tourist areas and we have to ask for your understanding at times. From April 'til Thanksgiving we work long, long hours six or seven days a week. We just plain wear out! Village Craftsmen (the shop) is closed in January and usually half of February but we are still here working. We do inventory, place orders for the coming season, tend to the online website shipping orders daily and CLEANING (I'll talk more about that tomorrow). Everyone needs a vacation, needs to reconnect with family, friends and neighbors not seen much in months of busyness. We need to be home. We really do love to have all of you come back. We're glad to see you. But...you'll have to forgive us if we're a little sad to see "offseason" end.

(Posted by Jude)

Here's the link to read all about the whistle: http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/news031807.htm

A Good Memory

A few days ago was the fifth anniversary of the death of Philips' Dad , Lawton. Hard to believe it's been that long. He was one of the most wonderful, devilish, incorrigible, funny men I have ever known. He and I had a great give and take relationship. When he and my son Travis got together there was no telling what mischief would occur! Few days go by that don't bring back memories of Lawton. They are good memories.

(Posted by Jude)

Here's the link to read all about the whistle: http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/news031807.htm.

Up the Beach

To most of you running out to the store to pick up a little something is no big deal. Just hop in the car, do the errand and you're back shortly. A trip to the doctor or dentist to the grocery store or to pick up plants at a nursery is rather common place. But to us who live on Ocracoke a trip to anywhere beyond the Variety Store takes planning. Shall we leave on the 6 or 7Am ferry? Who can we get to watch to dog? Will the Orange Blossom be out of Apple Uglies by the time we get there? Shall we have fast food for lunch or no lunch and try a new restaurant for dinner? In any case a bucket of Kentucky Fried Chicken is always on the backseat on the trip home. It's two hours to Nags Head including the ferry ride and of course two hours home. There's four hours gone and we haven't even left yet! We always inform friends and neighbors that we're going and ask if there's anything we can pick up for them. Our trip usually turns into an adventure and we get back home late, happy,poorer and exhausted from.........up the beach.

(Posted by Jude)

Here's the link to read all about the whistle: http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/news031807.htm.

Sorry Bout That!

So sorry - I thought Philip was writing in the journal yesterday and he thought I was, so consequently...zip! Philip is on his way today to a lovely vacation so I'll be journaling for another week but not on weekends. I will be in my gardens both at home and at the shop this weekend. My palms have been itching this week and for me that means I need to work in the dirt not that I'm going to get money (I should be so lucky ). Frank
always says he's never known a grown woman who likes to grub in the mud more than me. He's right.

Here's the link to read all about the whistle: http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/news031807.htm.

A Twig Whistle

Well, we've done it again. We've published yet another monthly Newsletter from Ocracoke Island. This month I explain how to make a simple traditional wooden whistle from a Myrtle branch (or a Willow branch if you can't find Myrtle). So take a look at the directions, round up a child (if you don't have one of your own a grandchild or a neighbor will do) and teach him or her a fun, old-timey skill. We'll even publish photos of your whistle if you send them to us. Enjoy.

Here's the link to read all about the whistle: http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/news031807.htm.

Another Island

Before spring officially begins, this evening I believe, I must tell you about our winter vacation. People who live on islands have a tendancy to vacation on other islands. A few days after Christmas Frank, Dale, Jaren and I flew to Aruba where we vacationed for a couple of weeks. We didn't do the "tourist" thing. No resorts, no casinos (well, one night). We rented a private home and spent the two weeks exploring the Arikok National Park, snorkeling, swimming, swimming, swimming oh yes, and did I mention swimming in the bluest, warmest most... oh well (sigh). The food was fabulous, the people warm and friendly and you know how I am about creatures. They had wonderful creatures, big eyed parakeets ,hummingbirds, teeny colorful little birds, Iguanas,wild donkeys and goats and these adorable lizards called Cododos that are irridescent blues and greens. They come up to you in a restaurant or even in the house and beg for food. They're vegetarians. Aruba is a desert not a tropical island with cactus everywhere. The temperature was between 82 and 87 with no humidity and those wonderful tradewinds blowing constantly. We had the best New Years Eve ever. Incredible! Ocracoke in the spring, summer and fall. Aruba in the winter...............hmmmmmm.


(Posted by Jude)

This month's Ocracoke Newsletter tells about island customs relating to death & dying. You can read the newsletter here.

And yet again.

Things are still very quiet on the island but you can feel that things are about to begin again. Folks are out and about cleaning up yards and just puttering, getting ready for the season. The Camillias in our yard are heavy with blossoms. They are gorgeous. Some of the Azaleas are just starting to bloom. Many little warblers are here on their way from somewhere to somewhere else. We're happy to have them here in the spring and fall. And so it all begins again.

( Posted by Jude)

This month's Ocracoke Newsletter tells about island customs relating to death & dying. You can read the newsletter here.

Thank you for not "Ninnying"

This has been a glorious week. The temperature has been in the upper 60's and low 70's. Because of the temperature of the water surrounding the island, we're always cooler in the spring and warmer in the fall than the mainland. It's soooooooo hard to stay indoors when all you want to do is trim or plant or just sit in the sun and listen to the birds Dallie and I have been hard pressed to keep our minds on shop business this week. (Don't tell Philip). I can hear Frank and Dale out in the back yard of the hemp shop clipping and raking and laughing......in the SUN. Not fair! Sounds a lot like Spring Fever doesn't it? Sounds a lot like ninnying too. Sorry 'bout that. Have a great weekend!

(Posted By Jude)

This month's Ocracoke Newsletter tells about island customs relating to death & dying. You can read the newsletter here.

Antics on the "Slough"

My husband Frank and I live on a creek called the "Old Slough". It's very low this time of year. It's tidal but the prevailing winds in the spring seem to keep the tidal flow minimal. (that's a guess) Having been built long ago, our house sits close to the creek but up high. We are in the unique position of being able to observe from our deck, the behavior of the wonderful creatures who live there and some who are merely passing through. We can observe without being noticed unless we wish to interact. The turtles are still hibernating but the Mallards wake us every morning at daybreak calling for their corn. Then there are the antics of three Canada Geese, real clowns, who are back for the fifth season to mate and raise their babies in our yard (yes, I said three, don't ask....I don't know). And, very special this spring is a pair of Wooducks, initially very fearful but now gaining confidence to come near and eat. They are incredibly beautiful! Mix these with Egrets, Great Blue Herons, Dudley the Rooster and his hen, our ten cats, Pungo the dog nextdoor and our Corgi Willie, all getting along and making us laugh with their antics and well I hope you get the picture. It's a nice one.

Posted by Jude

This month's Ocracoke Newsletter tells about island customs relating to death & dying. You can read the newsletter here.

Gone for Awhile

Many of you have met or at least know of one of our wonderful local authors, Pat Garber. She has written "Orcacoke Wild", "Ocracoke Odyssey", "Your Questions Answered", and the new "Little Sea Horse". She also writes a monthly column for the Island Breeze and periodically writes for Wildlife NC. She's recorded two CD's - "Dream Sailing" and " Beyond the Blue Horizon". She teaches music to daycare, pre-K, 1st and 2nd graders. She is a former wildlife rehabilitator on the island and active in Ocracats. She just left her job as director of the Ocracoke Preservation Society. She also makes Yaupon tea and she's my best friend. She left the island the other day for a job at Ghost Ranch in Abiquia, NM. I am thrilled for her and sad for me. We'll miss her very much .......safe home Pat.

(Posted by Jude)

This month's Ocracoke Newsletter tells about island customs relating to death & dying. You can read the newsletter here.

Spring Rollercoaster

I have always loved the changes in the seasons but must admit the older I get the more I realize I could skip winter and be happy. Last Saturday was glorious. I was out working in the yard in the warm sun. Sweeeeet! Sunday the wind blew a gale from the north and it was cold as stone..again. Today, it's 70 degrees.. again! Up and down, up and down - the spring rollercoaster begins. But--- it's 70 TODAY and that's good. I think I'll go outside for lunch and soak up some of the warmth before..........

(Posted by Jude)

This month's Ocracoke Newsletter tells about island customs relating to death & dying. You can read the newsletter here.

Happy Birthday Muze!

Just a reminder that today March 12, 2007 is Muzel Bryant's 103rd birthday. Muze is finally getting the recognition she deserves. I understand that she'll be at least mentioned on the "Today Show" on Wednesday March 14th between 8AM and 9:30AM and I believe a famous Hollywood director is going to visit with her tomorrow. Congratulations Muze! Many more Darlin'.

(Posted by Jude)

This month's Ocracoke Newsletter tells about island customs relating to death & dying. You can read the newsletter here.

A Great Day to be Alive

This is one of those terrific early spring days. I didn't even stand and shiver this morning waiting for the water in my outdoor shower to get hot. The sky is clear and picture-postcard blue. The bright sun makes the white picket fences sparkle. And talk in the village is of putting boats back in the water, bringing in fresh fish for dinner, shops & restaurants opening, visitors returning, and flowers blooming. Life is sweet, as my grandfather would say.

This month's Ocracoke Newsletter tells about island customs relating to death & dying. You can read the newsletter here.

Bits & Pieces

Just a few words to keep you posted about island news:

• An Inconvenient Truth will be shown at Deepwater Theater Sunday evening. There is no charge and everyone is invited. (Check at the P.O. for the time.)
• Monday, March 12, is Muzel Bryant's 103rd birthday. Happy Birthday Muze! I understand that The Today Show will air Muzel's birthday on March 14th, between 8:00 and 9:30 am.
  
• Tuesday evening, March 13, at 7:00 pm Ocracoke Friends of the Library will hold their annual membership meeting. Again everyone is invited.
  
• Contractors are laying sidewalks in the heart of the village as I write. They are scheduled to be finished no later than the middle of May.
• The OPS Museum will open to the public on March 29th. This begins its 16th year of operation.
• Today is the anniversary of the wreck of the Lillie F. Schmidt in 1893. The wreck was sighted at 6 am, ten miles from the Hatteras Inlet Life Saving Station. The crew, with the help of mules, brought the life saving equipment to the vessel and rescued all seven crew members. They returned to their station at midnight, after walking twenty miles. The keeper reported that the surfmen were "tired and worn out."
  

Jude will be writing our journal entries most of the next several weeks. I will be helping my son rewire his house, and will be taking a break from the journal. Also several friends will be visiting. If the weather is warm and you see them sitting on my porch swing enjoying the spring please wave as you pass by. (I'll probably be crawling around under my son's house during daylight hours.)

This month's Ocracoke Newsletter tells about island customs relating to death & dying. You can read the newsletter here.

Business Openings

This morning I had this question on our journal:

"At the end of Thanksgiving week, many businesses were shutting down for the season. With the warm breezes and hints of spring, what's the pace of life these days? Your business opened. What about the coffee shop, The Back Porch restaurant, etc? Folks starting to come out of their winter dens?"

Yes, Village Craftsmen is open -- Wednesday - Sunday, 10 a.m. - 5 p.m. This is our schedule through the end of this month. Beginning in April we will be open seven days a week, 9 a.m. - 6 p.m.

I never seem to know what other businesses are open this time of year. I've heard that the Pony Island Restaurant is open, and I think the Flying Melon Restaurant will be opening in a week or two. Jason's has been open all winter, as has Howard's Pub. I don't know when the Back Porch will be re-opening, and I haven't heard any news of the Coffee Shop either.

Several shops have been open now and then, including Natural Selections and Books to be Red & Deepwater Pottery, all on School Road.

I am guessing that most businesses will be open by the first or second week in April. And maybe it will be warm (and stay warm) by then, too. If any of our local readers know of other openings, just leave a comment.

PS: Ocrakate, I'll be working on your million just as soon as I secure mine (see comment on yesterday's post).

This month's Ocracoke Newsletter tells about island customs relating to death & dying. You can read the newsletter here.

A Biting Wind

Yesterday afternoon I walked along the surf. In the winter I always start out heading into the wind, usually north. I was wearing a hooded sweatshirt, a hat, an outer jacket, and woolen gloves. I pulled the sweatshirt strings tight around my neck. In short order I pulled the hood of my jacket up over my head and fastened the tabs in front of my chin and mouth. I could barely see. Only the sand and incoming tide at my feet were not obscured. The frigid air was biting at my eyes and cheeks. But I trudged on.

Finally I turned around and headed home. "May the wind always be at your back" is a worthy toast. What a difference. I lowered both hoods and even unzipped my jacket. The return walk was much more pleasant.

Today the weather has moderated quite a bit. Temperatures are now in the mid 60s. I suppose I'd be foolish not to take a walk on the beach today.

This month's Ocracoke Newsletter tells about island customs relating to death & dying. You can read the newsletter here.

Where is Spring?

With temperatures only in the upper 30s this morning islanders are wondering where Spring is hiding out. Although it is bright and sunny, the cold air makes outside chores less pleasant than normal. The one persistent sign of Spring is the cedar trees, however. This time of year they are heavy with golden pollen. Luckily for me I am not as bothered by allergies as some of my friends and neighbors. Some folks simply stay indoors as much as possible when pollen is blowing in the wind. But it won't last forever, and soon it will be warm besides. And we'll be ready.

This month's Ocracoke Newsletter tells about island customs relating to death & dying. You can read the newsletter here.

Sidewalks

When Ocracoke's first roads were paved (first during WWII, then in the 1950s) there was little anticipation that the village would host so many summer visitors. As a result, the state of North Carolina's right of way on roads through the heart of the village includes no more than the pavement itself. This has led to much congestion, especially in July & August, as vehicles, pedestrians, and bicyclists all vie for space on the roadway.

Some relief is now in sight. Thanks to the efforts of Earl O'Neal and others, especially landowners along Highway 12, the state is in the process of installing narrow, but serviceable sidewalks between "kayak corner" and the ferry lanes. According to Earl, the project should be completed by May 18.

This month's Ocracoke Newsletter tells about island customs relating to death & dying. You can read the newsletter here.

Shell Castle Enterprise

In the late 1700s John Wallace and John Gray Blount recognized the importance of Ocracoke Inlet as a strategic passageway for commercial vessels bound to and from mainland ports in colonial North Carolina. As a result they constructed a commercial enterprise on "Old Rock," a small oyster shell island between Ocracoke and Portsmouth. Renamed "Shell Castle," a tavern, store, wharves, warehouses, and even a lighthouse were built there. By 1837 1,400 vessels passed through Ocracoke Inlet annually.

As isolated as Ocracoke became after Hatteras Inlet opened up in 1846 (at which time commercial shipping moved there), this was not always so. I often try to imagine what life was like back then when a dozen or more large sailing vessels sometimes lay at anchor in the sound just offshore, and Ocracoke was at the very center of much maritime activity along America's eastern seaboard.

This month's Ocracoke Newsletter tells about island customs relating to death & dying. You can read the newsletter here.

More About Broken Seashells

On Wednesday I wrote a few lines about broken shells. It's always reassuring to know that folks are actually reading my posts, so I was pleased to get feedback from my cousin Dallie who works here at Village Craftsmen.

It seems the entry about broken shells brought back memories of a conversation Dallie's mama had years ago with an island artist. Dallie's mother made a comment to the artist about the beauty of a seashell and it's near perfect symmetry and form. He immediately countered that as an artist he found broken shells much more interesting and intriguing. Broken shells often reveal shapes and forms that complete shells lack, he explained.

So I've decided to include a photo of the conch that rests on my back porch table. Enjoy.



This month's Ocracoke Newsletter tells about island customs relating to death & dying. You can read the newsletter here.

Calling All Artists

I received the following note yesterday from my son-in-law, Fiddler Dave:

"This is just a quick note to let you know that the 2007 (June 1-3) Ocrafolk Festival is now accepting Artisan Applications. To apply online or download an application visit the festival website at www.ocrafolkfestival.org and click on the link to the left for Artisan Application. Thanks so much!"

I am thinking that some of our readers who are artisans may be interested in applying to exhibit at the Festival. Those of you who have participated or attended in years past know what a wonderful experience it is.

Even if you don't intend to exhibit, keep the date in mind. The Festival really is a great time to visit Ocracoke. Music, food, stories, crafts....we have it all.

This month's Ocracoke Newsletter tells about island customs relating to death & dying. You can read the newsletter here.

Robins

Whenever my mother would spy the first robin of the year -- usually in late February or early March -- she would jot the date down in her journal. And tell her children the good news. Robins, of course, are an early harbinger of spring. These small red-breasted birds are migrating through the island as I write. I noticed the first few yesterday, and this morning several are flitting around in the cedar trees outside my window.

The forecast for tomorrow calls for temperatures in the mid-60s, so I guess those robins know what they're doing. Spring can't be too far behind.


This month's Ocracoke Newsletter tells about island customs relating to death & dying. You can read the newsletter here.

Broken Seashells

A friend of mine tells me he likes picking up broken seashells more than whole shells. He is a preacher so maybe it's a manifestation of some quirky worldview. And maybe not. He says he just finds the broken shapes more interesting, more fascinating, more captivating.

I don't generally share my friend's enthusiasm for broken shells, but every once in a while I spy a particularly interesting one. A while ago I came across a large horse conch that had been beaten and battered by the surf. Most of the outer shell was broken away, exposing the intricate, spiral swirls down the center. I picked it up, and it rests on the table on my screened in porch. I like it, but I'd like an unbroken horse conch even more.

This month's Ocracoke Newsletter tells about island customs relating to death & dying. You can read the newsletter here.

Gnarled Trees

There are generally two primary reasons people give for choosing to call Ocracoke home -- family & community.....and natural beauty. I talk a lot about the former. The latter is almost as important, and likely more obvious to the infrequent visitor. As most of our readers know, our beach is outstanding -- 16 miles of undeveloped shoreline is almost unheard of nowadays.

Of course we have fantastic fishing (both inshore and offshore), recreational boating, sailing, & kayaking, as well as clamming, crabbing, and surfing.

We have spectacular sunsets, and inspiring sunrises. Our island is literally shaped by nature. Wind and tide are constantly recreating this unique place. As I walk out by the sound shore, or even in the village I am often struck by the sight of twisted, gnarled limbs of centuries old oaks and more recent cedars. They tell their own silent stories of years of molding by the powerful forces of nature. We are relative newcomers, visitors if you will, privileged simply to be here now to soak in the power and beauty of nature and this fragile sandbar.

This month's Ocracoke Newsletter tells about island customs relating to death & dying. You can read the newsletter here.

Dinner with Friends

On the island, being invited out to dinner is most often like being asked by family to come over for a meal. No need to dress up (bare feet are always acceptable) or fret about what time to arrive. It's even OK to go early. That way you can visit, watch the kids, or even help with the preparation.

But the informality doesn't mean the evening lacks interest. Quite the opposite. Last night I enjoyed such a dinner with friends. We sat at the kitchen table (come to think of it, I don't believe they have a dining room table), feasted on Bourbon Pecan Chicken (served alongside their son's Lego creation), enjoyed a beer or two, and chatted about Life, Philosophy, Science, & Religion. Oh yes, we told jokes, laughed (a lot), and even played some guitar (well, I listened). The song was a tongue in cheek creation about Werner Heisenberg's Uncertainty Principle, and Niels Bohr's Complimentary Principle.

All told it was a splendid evening of good food and good fun.

This month's Ocracoke Newsletter tells about island customs relating to death & dying. You can read the newsletter here.

Poem

I can't believe there are no more poets out there in our reading audience. But, alas, I've received only this one submission in response to my call for verse. Thank you, Clem!

NOT QUITE O'COCKERS YET
(For Jerry and Norma, With Love)

We're not quite O'Cockers yet, I reckon,
But we're workin' on it.

The good old boys next door, Jeff and Beaver,
Make torpid flails at their fishnet
With sticks, in the manner of parochial beadles
Grown weary of their God-given commission
To correct the lazy
In the buzzing blaze of midday.

We sit here in the heat.
We feel in our own hot blood why their flailing's torpid.
Our dozing kitten stretches her skinny bones full-length,
Passive, yet alert for a breeze; life itself
Heats up and slows down in these parts come July.

We sense our inbuilt clocking devices shifting
From chronometer time to calendar time
(measure by tides, stars or phases of the moon).

But, in spite of ourselves, our wishful thinking,
In spite of this tidal pull toward the languid,
We still think about the day's schedule, don't we?
What must we get at the store?
What shall we make for supper?
What shall we do next?
Do we have time to go to the beach?
We can't just sit here idle, can we? And...

When (why?) do we have to go home?

Nope. We're not quite O'Cockers yet.
But it’s workin' on us.
— Clem Page
Ocracoke, July 24, 2002.

This month's Ocracoke Newsletter tells about island customs relating to death & dying. You can read the newsletter here.

Nathaniel Jackson

On Thursday, native & long time Ocracoke resident, Nathaniel Jackson, was laid to rest on the island. Nathaniel had spent a number of his younger years working as a fisherman and crabber. Later on he turned to carpentry. In the 1970s & 1980s Nathaniel purchased a back hoe and other heavy equipment, and began installing septic systems. He also looked after rental properties for off-island owners before realtors became established on Ocracoke. Many long-time visitors to the island will remember Nathaniel and his delight in sharing island stories. He embraced everyone, from native islanders to new residents to first time visitors. It was as if Nathaniel had never met a stranger. Although he suffered from numerous health problems in his last few years, Nathaniel never lost his quirky personality or his sense of humor. We all will miss another of our "old-time O'cockers."

Some of our readers may want to share their stories of Nathaniel. I believe that anyone who ever met Nathaniel has at least one good story to tell. Just click on the "comments" link below.

This month's Ocracoke Newsletter tells about island customs relating to death & dying. You can read the newsletter here.

Island News

Wednesday night at the monthly meeting of the Ocracoke Civic & Business Association the members heard about a number of issues affecting the island in coming months. Reports were given on new sidewalks that will be laid alongside NC Highway 12 in the heart of the village, additional parking that is planned for the lighthouse, a bike path that will be constucted (first to the campground, then to the pony pen, and eventually all the way to Hatteras Inlet), a tram that will help ease traffic congestion in the village, and the replacement of the seven bridges on Highway 12.

We also heard reports on coming changes to the OCBA website (http://www.ocracokevillage.com/ocba.html), plans for our July 4 celebration, & the status of the Graveyard of the Atlantic Museum in Hatteras.

Although committees and task forces have been working on these issues for some time, implementation of the projects has not actually begun. Keep posted right here for more information as it becomes available.

This month's Ocracoke Newsletter tells about island customs relating to death & dying. You can read the newsletter here.

Update on the Community Store

Yesterday a reader asked about the latest news re. the Community Store. As many of our readers know, the Community Store was opened in 1918 and remained a focus of the community until the spring of last year when they closed their doors. Rob Temple & Sundae Horn have been interested in reopening the store, but a number of issues prevented that from happening.

The good news is that a group of concerned residents have been working together this winter to get the store back in operation. The details are sometimes complex, but I will share the general idea. The goal is to operate as a general store/grocery store/cooperative under the care of a non-profit corporation. Committees have been formed and they are pursuing funding as I write. At this time everything looks like "a go." Although everyone involved was hoping for an opening before Easter, it now seems unlikely that the store could open before June.

When the store does reopen it will operate as a general store with a full stock of basic groceries, as well as specialty items. It will be open to the public, as before. In addition, there will probably be opportunities to join a Community Store co-op. Membership might entitle members to certain discounts or the chance to purchase some items in bulk. These details have yet to be worked out.

I had been waiting until the funding was secured and a definite opening date was announced, before writing again about the Community Store. However, the question prompted me to revisit this topic again now. Keep reading the journal. As soon as more information is available I will let you know.

This month's Ocracoke Newsletter tells about island customs relating to death & dying. You can read the newsletter here.

Wind & Sand

It may have been sunny...and a little warmer, too....but it sure was windy yesterday on the beach. The wind was kicking up the waves, and that brought out the surfers. Donned in wet suits, their boards waxed up, they paddled out to catch the good ones. I walked on, into the wind, trying to keep from getting chilled.

The return hike was more pleasant, with the wind at my back. At home again I sat on my steps to take off my shoes and empty out the sand that had found its way between the seams. It is calm today, but overcast. I believe we might see some rain this afternoon.

This month's Ocracoke Newsletter tells about island customs relating to death & dying. You can read the newsletter here.

Practical Concerns

This is just one of those days -- emails to answer, trash to haul to the dump, laundry to wash, papers to organize..... In many ways living on Ocracoke is just like living anywhere else, I guess. It's difficult to ignore life's little details.

However, the weather has turned delightful this morning. Bright sunny skies and temperatures in the mid-50s will entice some of us to the beach later today. I suppose living on Ocracoke is a tad different from most other places.

Oh yes, one historical note. On this date in 1928 one of the last shipwrecks (not counting losses during World War II) to occur on our beaches was recorded. The four-masted schooner, George W. Truitt, Jr., laden with 645,000 feet of lumber, with a crew of seven "went ashore...in a 40 mile an hour gale from the southwest." All of the crew members were brought ashore in the breeches buoy.

This month's Ocracoke Newsletter tells about island customs relating to death & dying. You can read the newsletter here.

Presidents Day

Village Craftsmen has been open for three days now, so we all agree that it's time for a day off. Although it has been cold and windy this morning, the breeze is calming down some and the bright sun is beckoning me outside. Lachlan has been asking to make another foray down to Springer's Point, so we'll bundle up and go exploring. Maybe we'll find another Native American pipe bowl along the shoreline like I did thirty years ago. If not, we'll still have a great adventure.

This month's Ocracoke Newsletter tells about island customs relating to death & dying. You can read the newsletter here.

Death & Dying

Some days ago a reader left this comment on one of our journal posts: "Your entry about the unique obligations of island residents called to jury duty sparked a question in my mind about how you folks deal with another everyday part of life -- death. I don't recall seeing any funeral homes on the island in my many visits there. I certainly don't mean to be insensitive, but what's the standard procedure on Ocracoke for dealing with this inevitable part of life?"

In reply I have devoted our February Newsletter to answering this question. You can read the newsletter here.

Community Spirit

Today at noon the local chapter of the Ocracoke Masonic Lodge held a benefit pig pickin' at their new cook shack. The members had secured three pigs, and served the barbecue with baked beans and coleslaw, as well as rolls and soft drinks. The ladys of the island Needle and Thread Guild (the "Quilters") baked brownies, cookies, cup cakes, & cheese cake to go along with the hot meal.

All this was to raise money for the family of Brad Gaskins, a local young man who died unexpectedly several weeks ago in his mid-30s. The Masons donated their time and the ingredients. And the meals were offered for a "donation" of any size. All proceeds will go to Brad's family.

I guess this is just what folks do in a small, tight-knit community. We look after one another. Thanks to all the volunteers who contributed so much for our neighbors.

This month's Ocracoke Newsletter chronicles the story of commercial fishing on Ocracoke, and tells of the efforts of the Ocracoke Working Watermen's Association to save the island's last remaining fish house. Click here to read the entire newsletter....and learn how to make a donation.

Reopening

It is sunny and breezy this morning. Even though it is barely above freezing I'm thinking it would be a great day for a walk on the beach. We'll see. Coming up is a long weekend in honor of presidents Washington & Lincoln. Of course that means a few visitors will find their way to the island. Forecasters are calling for warmer weather in the next few days. This is typically when we open Village Craftsmen for the year and 2007 is no exception. Beginning today we are open five days a week (Wed. - Sun., 10 am - 5 pm).

Today is also the anniversary of two notable Ocracoke shipwrecks, the Lambert Tree in 1841, and the A.F. Crockett in 1885. To read about the wreck of the Crockett click here: http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/news021806.htm.

This month's Ocracoke Newsletter chronicles the story of commercial fishing on Ocracoke, and tells of the efforts of the Ocracoke Working Watermen's Association to save the island's last remaining fish house. Click here to read the entire newsletter....and learn how to make a donation.

Dying & Poems

A week or so ago a reader asked about death & dying on Ocracoke. I didn't post a reply to the question (I suppose I just got distracted -- I'll blame it on Lachlan!), but I have been using that question as the catalyst for my next monthly newsletter. I am working on that article right now and will be ready to upload it in a week or less. So be looking for the link in an upcoming journal entry.

Yesterday a reader alerted me to the poems of Pablo Neruda. I have to admit that I'm not so knowledgeable about literary matters. But I did a Google search and came up with a host of wonderful poems. You might want to do the same. Were I a poet I might attempt to convey some of the magic of Ocracoke in verse here in this journal. Come to think of it, if you are a poet you are encouraged to use the comment option below to post some of your very own poems, especially if they pertain to the island. I might even copy and paste them into a future journal entry.

This month's Ocracoke Newsletter chronicles the story of commercial fishing on Ocracoke, and tells of the efforts of the Ocracoke Working Watermen's Association to save the island's last remaining fish house. Click here to read the entire newsletter....and learn how to make a donation.

Dancing Trees

I awoke this morning to gray, overcast skies. The cedars outside my bedroom window were swaying in the fifteen mile per hour wind, beckoning me out of bed and inviting me to step outside to feel the cool breeze. The temperature is dropping again today, after a brief hiatus. Yesterday was t-shirt weather, and Lachlan and I took an hour after lunch to run and play on the beach. Eventually a light rain drove us back to the shelter of the car.

All of us love this time of year when the pace of island life is especially slow and relaxed. Our work schedules are flexible and we take more time to visit and talk. Last night Amy, David, Lachlan & I shared a dinner of chili and homemade bread. Afterwards we spread out and played a couple of games of cribbage on my living room floor (Lachlan entertained himself with jigsaw puzzles).

This month's Ocracoke Newsletter chronicles the story of commercial fishing on Ocracoke, and tells of the efforts of the Ocracoke Working Watermen's Association to save the island's last remaining fish house. Click here to read the entire newsletter....and learn how to make a donation.

Enjoying the Winter

With warmer days yesterday and today we see a few more people outside. Mothers pushing baby strollers, carpenters on roofs, neighbors trimming bushes or neatening up their yards. The weather is still not right for painting fences and such -- forecasters are calling for cold temperatures again later in the week -- but the daffodils are in bloom.

So we'll just continue enjoying the peace and quiet of an island winter.

This month's Ocracoke Newsletter chronicles the story of commercial fishing on Ocracoke, and tells of the efforts of the Ocracoke Working Watermen's Association to save the island's last remaining fish house. Click here to read the entire newsletter....and learn how to make a donation.

Warming Up

It is nearly 60 degrees this morning. After almost two weeks of cold weather (for us islanders it's cold when it drops below freezing overnight) folks are out and about today in shirtsleeves and t-shirts. It's the perfect day to get some outdoor chores accomplished. The sun is bright and it feels like spring is around the corner.

Today, of course, is Abraham Lincoln's birthday. So Happy Birthday, Abe! Happy Birthday to Charles Darwin, also (both he and Lincoln were born on this date in 1809), and to any of our readers who are celebrating a birthday today.

This month's Ocracoke Newsletter chronicles the story of commercial fishing on Ocracoke, and tells of the efforts of the Ocracoke Working Watermen's Association to save the island's last remaining fish house. Click here to read the entire newsletter....and learn how to make a donation.

Library

We believe that Ocracoke had, for a number of years, the country's smallest library. It was an 8' x 10' wood frame building behind the Fire House. It contained about 3,000 books and was operated for twenty years by librarian Marguerite Boos. It closed in 1996 and was moved to the property of Karen Lovejoy & David Frum to be used as a home schoolhouse. In the same year the new Ocracoke School and Community Library was opened next door to the Fire House.

At your next opportunity be sure to stop by the library and peruse the book selection. They also have a fascinating local history section of old newspapers, scrapbooks, and photographs with rare glimpses into island life of bygone years. Of course, the library has Internet access also.

This month's Ocracoke Newsletter chronicles the story of commercial fishing on Ocracoke, and tells of the efforts of the Ocracoke Working Watermen's Association to save the island's last remaining fish house. Click here to read the entire newsletter....and learn how to make a donation.

Dolphins, Dolphins, Dolphins

The ocean was calm again yesterday afternoon. Miniature waves rolled up on the beach, but they were sharp & clean. I imagined tiny little surfers in Ken & Barbie sized wet suits having a grand time catching waves.

And beyond the little breakers I saw dolphins. At first just one or two. Then groupings. It's difficult to count dolphins. Two or three will surface, then dive. Others rise up behind or beyond them. Are there a half dozen in that pod? Or maybe a dozen or more? Some were heading south; others were swimming north. Now and then one (more than likely a youngster, I'm supposing) would jump and twist, then dive back with a splash.

All told I saw dozens of dolphins in a number of pods. So don't be concerned. In spite of my post a couple of days ago, there seems to be no shortage of dolphins off our shore.

This month's Ocracoke Newsletter chronicles the story of commercial fishing on Ocracoke, and tells of the efforts of the Ocracoke Working Watermen's Association to save the island's last remaining fish house. Click here to read the entire newsletter....and learn how to make a donation.

The Nature Trail

At the fork in the path he pointed to the right. After a few steps he turned around and headed off to the left. He stopped to examine pine cones, leaves, and roots. Sometimes we'd retrace our steps for no apparent reason. Every side path was a new adventure. Finally at the sound we halted for a few minutes to gaze out over the marsh and the water. I tried to explain why we weren't going to traipse through the tall marsh grass. We looked for birds.

On the way back we stopped to pick "blueberries" and stuff them in a side pocket. One stick became a horse and we galloped down the path. Another stick was a fishing pole to take "to the lake." On one boardwalk we stopped to bounce up and down, as if on a small trampoline.

Along the way we examined cedars, live oaks, and pines. He's noticing the difference. On other walks we've seen snakes, nutria, geese, and herons. I suppose it was too cold and sunny yesterday. We just had each other for company. But a morning walk on the nature trail with Lachlan is always a delight.

This month's Ocracoke Newsletter chronicles the story of commercial fishing on Ocracoke, and tells of the efforts of the Ocracoke Working Watermen's Association to save the island's last remaining fish house. Click here to read the entire newsletter....and learn how to make a donation.