More Good Times

Today our Ocrafolk School class learned about nautical traditions, schooner history, and basics of sailing a two-masted schooner. We also watched a dramatic video of a tall ship rounding Cape Horn, and wove turk's head bracelets and rope mats. We are so fortunate to have great weather for the school. Although it's been windy and cold some days, we chose the warmest and quietest day for kayaking, and picked this afternoon (moderate winds) for sailing. But the sky has been clear and rain-free. At night the stars are scattered across the heavens in grand profusion. Last night, walking home from the shrimp boil with Lachlan, we gazed up at the Milky Way and talked about "where we were before we were born." Lachlan said he didn't know, and I told him it was a mystery that even his Opa couldn't answer.

Our latest "newsletter" is a link to my new web site, Black Squall Books, with information about my new book, Digging up Uncle Evans, History, Ghost Tales, and Stories from Ocracoke Island, which is expected to be available by mid-November. Click HERE to go directly to the web site to learn more.

Springer's Point, Lighthouse, & Howard Street

Our Ocracoke Sampler class (part of the Ocrafolk School) is having a great time learning about Ocracoke. Monday afternoon and yesterday we explored the sound (in kayaks), hiked across the island from the beach to the sound (over the dunes, across open areas of grass and cacti, through thickets of yaupon & myrtle, into pine forest, between some of the largest live oaks on Ocracoke, and all the way to the marsh), and learned about clamming and net fishing. Today we studied the history of the village (pirates, pilots, seafarers, homemakers, and life savers...and Springer's Point, the lighthouse, and Howard Street). Tomorrow we'll join Captain Rob for sailors' stories, schooner history, explanations of nautical lore, and more sailing.

I've been too busy to hear much about the other classes (pottery, watercolor painting, basketry, and cooking), but I'm sure that will come (maybe tonight at the soundside shrimp boil).

Does it sound like fun?? If so, consider joining us next October!

Our latest "newsletter" is actually a link to my new web site, Black Squall Books, and information about my new book, Digging up Uncle Evans, History, Ghost Tales, and Stories from Ocracoke Island, which is expected to be available by mid-November. Click HERE to go directly to the web site to learn more.

Digging up Uncle Evans

Exciting News! My new book, Digging up Uncle Evans; History, Ghost Tales, and Stories from Ocracoke Island, is scheduled for release mid-November. This collection of history and stories is based on our popular "Down Point" Ghost & History Walks.

My son, Stefen, has created a beautiful web site devoted to promotion of the book. There you can read the first chapter, view the back cover text, peruse the table of contents, read a paragraph about me, and, best of all, place orders for yourself, your family & friends. Digging up Uncle Evans will make an excellent holiday or special occasion gift for anyone who knows and loves Ocracoke.

Click here to go to www.blacksquallbooks.com.

Ocrafolk School

Last night the 2nd annual Ocrafolk School met at the Flying Melon restaurant. It was an opportunity for the 29 students to meet their instructors, and for the instructors to learn something about the students and give them brief introductions to the classes. And, we shared a delicious meal prepared by Michael Schramel and Suzie Scott.

This morning I presented half of the students with a brief introduction to Ocracoke, and a tour of the Ocracoke Preservation Society museum. Captain Rob took the other half on a schooner cruise. Then we swapped students and repeated our presentations. In the afternoon classes began -- Pottery, Basketry, Watercolor Painting, Cooking, & Ocracoke Sampler.

Our Sampler class enjoyed a kayak tour of the sound side of the island. David Senseney shared information and insights about birds, marsh grasses, trees, plants, ecology, and development issues. We learned a lot, and worked up a great appetite. In just an hour or so we'll be coming together again for dinner at Captain Ben's restaurant, and then a music jam at the Soundfront Inn. This is going to be a great week!

Our latest Newsletter is a history of the Ocracoke Assembly of God Church. You can read the newsletter by clicking here.

Beach

The ocean was rough yesterday -- large waves and white water as far as the eye could see. Every other wave washed up above the berm, some even beyond the dunes, cutting narrow channels here and there. I walked from the Pony Pen north to a large section of shipwreck. It was difficult to measure because the ocean kept washing up around the wreck, but I estimate that it was 60-80 feet long, with large iron spikes sticking out of it. Some folks think it's a remnant from the George W. Wells that wrecked near there in 1913.

Today was much quieter, and a much easier walk!


Our latest Newsletter is a history of the Ocracoke Assembly of God Church. You can read the newsletter by clicking here.

Air Conditioning??

I was chatting on the phone with Lou Ann this morning, and she has been telling me how cold it's been in northeastern Indiana lately -- down into the 30s at night. Of course, the trees there have been ablaze with color, and now the fallen leaves are covering lawns and sidewalks. Add pumpkins and corn stalks (Indiana has plenty of corn stalks), along with outdoor ghost stories with folks sitting on hay bales, and you have the quintessential Halloween scene.

What a difference here on the island! It is so warm today (in the mid 70s already), that my upstairs bedroom is feeling a bit stuffy. I've opened all of the windows and doors to cool things off (we do have a stiff breeze blowing today), and I really won't turn on the A/C....but I might be tempted.

Our latest Newsletter is a history of the Ocracoke Assembly of God Church. You can read the newsletter by clicking here.

Spook House

Last year the Ocracoke School Spook Walk down Howard Street was rained out. This year the high school students will be transforming the public/school library building into a creepy venue. I went over last night to get my assignment. I'll be sitting in a rocking chair greeting folks as they enter the building. Of course, I'll be dressed appropriately and I will be behaving in a decidedly demented manner. I'm looking forward to my role!

The students showed me their master plan -- dark tunnels, smoke machines, strobe lights, caskets, ghoulish scenes, amputated body parts..... I think they're putting together an effective display. If you're on the island come on out to the school this afternoon/evening for hot dogs, games, spook house, and bingo.

Our latest Newsletter is a history of the Ocracoke Assembly of God Church. You can read the newsletter by clicking here.

Lots of Little Stuff

As usual in the off-season, there is no major island news to report. But I have been kept busy with lots of little stuff this week:

• I've been researching the Artists' Colony that operated for several months in the summers of 1939 & 1940. Look for a newsletter article sometime this winter (it is an intriguing story),
• I'm also documenting several of the island's largest live oak trees. That will be the subject of another newsletter sometime soon,
  
• My new book, Digging up Uncle Evans, should be out by mid-November. Look for more information in the coming weeks,
• The community is getting ready for our annual Halloween Carnival tomorrow night (I'll be in the spook house acting creepy), and
• We're only three days away from the beginning of our second annual Ocrafolk School. There are twenty-nine students enrolled. More information to follow.

Our latest Newsletter is a history of the Ocracoke Assembly of God Church. You can read the newsletter by clicking here.

Schooner Race Photos

Here are a few pictures from our racing adventure. They were all taken by Steve Musil. He's on the right in the photo below. Captain Rob is next to him. Frank Phelps is in the blue shirt, and I am on the left. Emmet took the picture (he's on the left in the last photo). You can click on any image to see a larger version.

















Our latest Newsletter is a history of the Ocracoke Assembly of God Church. You can read the newsletter by clicking here.

Rodanthe

I came home Sunday afternoon, after my sailing trip, and discovered significant beach erosion on Hatteras Island, at the village of Rondanthe. We were forced to drive through several inches of sea water where the ocean had breached the dunes (this was where the movie, Nights in Rodanthe, was filmed). Early yesterday Highway 12 was closed there. Webcam photos showed water pouring through the dunes onto the road. According to the Virginian-Pilot one house collapsed into the ocean. You can read about it here. The road was reopened later in the day.

Our latest Newsletter is a history of the Ocracoke Assembly of God Church. You can read the newsletter by clicking here.

Great Chesapeake Bay Schooner Race

The 19th annual Great Chesapeake Bay Schooner Race is now history. And Ocracoke's very own schooner, Windfall, in its first race, under command of captain Rob Temple, with a crew of four (Emmet Temple, Frank Phelps, Steve Musil, and yours truly) finished third place in its class.

Captain Rob now has a handsome plaque to display on his vessel. The more than fifty schooners (click on the link if you don't know how to distinguish a schooner) were divided into four classes. The Windfall, with a length of 57 feet overall, and 45 feet on deck, was one of the smallest boats. To Rob's delight we made record time and beat many of the larger vessels. In fact we were the second schooner in our class over the finish line, but were awarded third place because of a complicated handicap formula.

With winds of 15 to 25 mph and building seas, the Windfall raced down the Bay before the wind (at times exceeding 10 knots), from just after 1 pm on Thursday through early morning on Friday. It was an exciting (and sometimes wild) ride with all sails set.

What a memorable adventure it was. The race was the highlight, of course, but in port (in Norfolk, Baltimore, and Portsmouth) we were treated to traditional seafaring music (sea chanteys, ballads, and folk songs); tables piled with fresh oysters; pirate reenactors in frock coats, tri-corn hats, and cutlasses; and mugs of cold beer. Walking along the wharves and docks alongside salty old sailors, with wooden masts and traditional rigging as a backdrop, it felt as if we'd stepped back several centuries.

Although I am no experienced sailor, I can hold the boat on a steady course, I know the port side from the starboard side, the halyards from the sheets, and I know "red, right when returning." But I learned a number of new nautical terms. In case you're interested, I've listed a few below. Click on the terms to learn what they mean.

burgee
parrel beads
worm, parcel, and serve
plimsoll line
pin rail
baggywrinkle

I also had the good fortune to meet and talk briefly with Bill Pinkney, former master of the Amistad (one of the largest schooners in the race), and first African-American to sail alone around the world (it took him nearly two years). As he put it to me (this is a paraphrase), any capable sailor with a seaworthy vessel should be able to accomplish this, but the question is, why would anyone want to do it!

Here are a few more links about the Amistad, and the Chesapeake Bay Schooner Race. Enjoy!

Amistad
Amistad and Schooner Race
Virginian Pilot Article

(I hope to post a few photos soon.)

Our latest Newsletter is a history of the Ocracoke Assembly of God Church. You can read the newsletter by clicking here.

Race's End

We docked in Portsmouth, Virginia yesterday just after noon, after racing for nearly twenty-four hours down the Chesapeake Bay. What an exciting race this was. Captain Rob's schooner, Windfall, handled exceptionally well in favorable winds that pushed her along at what we considered breakneck speeds (in the middle of the Bay with winds at 15 - 25 mph the Windfall fairly tore down to Portsmouth). We won't know the results of the race until later today (the race committee uses a complicated formula to determine handicaps), but we all feel great about our performance.

I'll be back home in several days, and hope to have photos to share then. As much fun as this trip has been, though, it will be good to be back home on Ocracoke. Look for more posts early next week.

Update!

Philip called last evening from Fells Point, MD. He, Capt. Rob and the Windfall crew had a wonderful trip up the Chesapeake Bay to Baltimore. Philip reported seeing bald eagles and dolphins escorting a container ship out to sea in Norfolk. The Windfall, large as it seems to us, was quite small compared to some of the schooners 130 feet and up, Philip said. The race from Baltimore to Norfolk is scheduled to start tomorrow, I believe. But you can check by clicking on this link " The Great Chesapeake Bay Schooner Race". I'm sure Philip will have tales to tell upon his return next week................tall and otherwise.

Our latest Newsletter is a history of the Ocracoke Assembly of God Church. You can read the newsletter by clicking here.

Sailing on Windfall

I will be gone for about 10 days. Captain Rob asked me to help crew on the Windfall. He has entered her in a schooner race next week down the Chesapeake Bay, from Baltimore to Norfolk.



(Click on photo [by Mike McCulley] to go to the Windfall web site.)

My brother is here on the island to look after my house and the dog while I am gone. But he's not computer savvy, so I can't get him to post on the blog. I think he will enjoy sittin' on the pizer and reading though. Maybe he'll even get to the beach some. The weather has been just right for enjoying the beach. I've asked Jude to post whenever she gets a few minutes.

In the meanwhile I'll be relaxing on the Windfall, enjoying this beautiful fall weather. Captain Rob even thinks we might win or place in the race. He claims the Windfall is a fast schooner. Maybe he should have gotten a more qualified crew!

See you after the race!

Our latest Newsletter is a history of the Ocracoke Assembly of God Church. You can read the newsletter by clicking here.

Shells

Just a photo today. These are the shells I found on the beach a few days ago. Scotch bonnet is on the left; lettered olive is at bottom; the other two shells are moon snails.



Click on the photo to view a larger image.

Our latest Newsletter is a history of the Ocracoke Assembly of God Church. You can read the newsletter by clicking here.

Nights in Rodanthe

Yesterday afternoon seven of us piled into Gary & Kitty's van and traveled to the Kill Devil Hills movie theater to see "Nights in Rodanthe." We left the island at 1 o'clock in order to catch the 1:30 ferry. We arrived at the theater soon after 4 o'clock, just in time to purchase popcorn, nachos, and drinks to eat in the lobby. The movie started at 4:30.

The movie was predictable. Based on a Nicholas Sparks novel, it was a typical tear-jerker, or as they say, a chick-flick. Not my personal choice in film, but it was an enjoyable afternoon's entertainment. Actually, it was more than that, thanks to it's location, and, of course, the Ocracoke island music and musicians.

It's often difficult for islanders to read or watch fiction set on the Outer Banks because we notice all of the inconsistencies (e.g. the 1970s beach house where N in R was set was supposed to have been built by an ex-slave after the Civil War!), but I was able to stifle the urge to criticize.

Towards the middle of the movie Richard Gere and Diane Lane take in a local outdoor party with crab-picking and down-home music. There they were, big as life -- Katy Mitchell belting out "Hurry on Down to My House" in her red dress, and Kevin, Marcy, Lou, and Jubal strumming and drumming behind her. Several other Outer Bankers could also be seen in the scene. But the most prominent was octogenarian and island native, Jule Garrish, singing "Before I Met You." Even though he had only a few brief moments, Jule's face filled the screen.

Of course, we stayed to the very end, and hooted and clapped when the credits listed our friends and neighbors.

After the show we stopped at a brew-pub in Nags Head, then made for the 10 o'clock ferry. I walked into my house at 11 o'clock, weary after spending ten hours just so I could see a movie, but happy I had.

Our latest Newsletter is a history of the Ocracoke Assembly of God Church. You can read the newsletter by clicking here.

Live Oaks on Ocracoke

Not long ago a reader asked about the ages of live oaks on Ocracoke. No one seems to know how old these majestic trees are, but estimates range from 350 years to 500 years, maybe even older for the largest trees.

With help from Chester Lynn I have been trying to photograph, measure, and document some of the oldest trees, both in the village, and on NPS land. I hope to have a monthly newsletter with more information in the coming months. In the meanwhile, enjoy this photo of what may be the largest live oak on Ocracoke Island. Measured about 3' from the ground, just below where the main trunk splits into several main branches, it is about 17' 3" in girth. It lives on Howard Street. The oak in the Methodist Church parsonage yard may be more impressive (the trunk does not divide, and it stands proudly right next to the lane), but it's girth is a "mere" 13' 9".



Our latest Newsletter is a history of the Ocracoke Assembly of God Church. You can read the newsletter by clicking here.

Beach Walk

Yesterday morning I just had to get to the beach. It had been several days since I'd last been there. Everything about the walk was perfect. The day was cooler than it had been, but still pleasantly warm (it was in the upper 60s). Lots of broken shells had washed up on the beach. Lo and behold! I found a scotch bonnet, a lettered olive, and two moon snails. Each of the moon snails had a small hole, but the bonnet was whole (though bleached almost white), and the olive was nearly as perfect as any I'd ever found.

The waves were gentle (not much bigger than on the sound side), and the water was almost immediately chest deep. After my 45 minute walk I stripped off my shirt and jumped in. So refreshing! Although the air felt cool when I got out, the water temperature was just right for swimming.

Our latest Newsletter is a history of the Ocracoke Assembly of God Church. You can read the newsletter by clicking here.

Magazine Articles

These are the kinds of days that boost people's spirits. Temperatures are in the upper 60s/low 70s, there's only a whisper of a breeze, and sunlight is dappling white picket fences. Yesterday, author Susan Sully stopped by for a visit. My house is one of 17 houses featured in her book, The Southern Cottage. She was here scouting out other houses for an upcoming magazine article. We visited three island homes, all of which were decorated with a decidedly creative flair. The light was perfect for taking a few preliminary snapshots. When the article is published I'll let our readers know.

Speaking of magazines, the October issue of Our State has an article about the upcoming Ocrafolk School by islander Sundae Horn. The same issue has an article about eastern North Carolina ghost walks, including our very own walk.

Our latest Newsletter is a history of the Ocracoke Assembly of God Church. You can read the newsletter by clicking here.

Ocracoke Assembly of God

Well, we've done it again. We've published our latest Ocracoke Newsletter. It is a brief history of the local Assembly of God Church. I didn't have any photographs of the original building (other than one I took yesterday of it's reincarnation as a rental house on NC 12). If any of our readers have photos you'd like to share please email them to us at Village Craftsmen. Thanks.

You can read the newsletter by clicking here.

The Green Flash

A reader yesterday asked about the Green Flash. I too first read about the Green Flash in a Reader's Digest article a number of years ago. At first I was intrigued, then I turned skeptical. Maybe it was just an "urban legend," I thought. But I kept looking for it, particularly at sunset.

I am no expert on this phenomenon, but, it does actually happen. As I understand it, the light from the sun passes through all the colors of the spectrum as it sinks below the horizon (or rises above it at sunrise). At the instant the sun disappears below a straight line horizon (such as over water) on a clear day, the emerald green can be visible as a momentary flash.

I have looked for the green flash at almost every opportunity, but it is rare to see it. I have never seen it over the Pamlico Sound (or over the Atlantic Ocean). However, my daughter, Amy, and I were fortunate to see it a number of years ago on the Pacific coast at Big Sur. It is so fleeting, but it is also very remarkable. Here is a link to a photo that looks just like the flash that Amy and I saw: http://spaceweather.com/swpod2006/31jan06/zinkova.jpg

Do a Google image search for "Green Flash" and enjoy the many photographs that have been posted on line. Other web sites have much more information about this phenomenon, which is considerably more complex than the explanation I offered above. If anyone has any images of the Green Flash over Pamlico Sound I would be delighted to publish a link from this journal.

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the wreck of the Victoria S, and Ocracoke's first automobile accident. You can read it here.

Sailing

Yesterday I joined Captain Rob, his mate (and son) Emmet, a few other friends, and a couple of visitors for an evening cruise on the schooner Windfall. With all sails set we caught the late afternoon breeze and enjoyed a delightful hour and a half on Pamlico Sound. One lone kayaker stopped his paddling for a couple of minutes to watch us sail by. An inbound ferry, loaded with cars, passed as cameras flashed. The Windfall's red sails make for dramatic photos.

On the horizon the fiery sun sank low as we discussed the green flash, a rare sunset sight, even over Pamlico Sound. The distant horizon was a bit too hazy for the flash, but Portsmouth Island, as usual, was clearly visible.

About 7 pm we glided up to the dock, then walked to the Jolly Roger to eat a light supper and listen to Gary, David, Marcy, & Lou entertain us with their music.

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the wreck of the Victoria S, and Ocracoke's first automobile accident. You can read it here.

The Night Sky

I was late getting home last night. I had been watching Lachlan while David was off-island and Amy was working at the Flying Melon. As I walked down Lawton Lane near midnight I stopped to look up into the heavens. The sky was cloudless and clear, and the view was spectacular. It seemed as if I could see tens of thousands of stars, although I know that the number of stars visible to the naked eye even from the darkest vantage point is probably no more than 4000 - 5000.

On the other hand, scientists estimate the number of stars within range of our telescopes as 70 sextillion. That's 70 thousand million million million, a number estimated to be 10 times greater than the number of sand grains on all of the world's beaches. It's simply beyond my ability to comprehend.

Even so, the night sky on Ocracoke, with the Milky Way clearly visible above me, and hundreds of other stars sprinkled about in the inky blackness of space, was awe-inspiring. I stood for many minutes just staring into the vault of heaven, contemplating what wonders lay so far beyond us. And then I caught sight of the dazzling display I hoped might mark the end of my reverie. A shooting star whizzed across the sky. I stood a moment longer, then opened the fence gate and went home.

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the wreck of the Victoria S, and Ocracoke's first automobile accident. You can read it here.

Art Walk

Today is the annual Ocracoke Island Art Walk. About three dozen island artists and craftspeople are displaying their work in various galleries, shops, and front yards throughout the village. A walking map is provided, as well as shuttle service between locations. You can read more about this event here: http://www.art-on-ocracoke.com/ocracokeartwalk.html

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the wreck of the Victoria S, and Ocracoke's first automobile accident. You can read it here.

Off-Season

Recently a reader asked about the off-season, wondering what restaurants and shops are open, and how long into the fall/winter. This is an inquiry that is difficult to answer. Some shops begin closing for the season in October, although several (including Village Craftsmen) stay open through Thanksgiving (when many folks have a long weekend, and we have a 2-3 day rush of business for holiday shopping), and even into December. The island is very slow after Thanksgiving, but has a bit of a bump during the Christmas holiday. Almost all of the specialty shops are closed January, February, and at least part of March, with businesses reopening in April or around the Easter holiday.

It is hard to say much about restaurants, except that most close during the off-season. Most years at least one restaurant stays open during the winter, but not always. It can be cold and blustery. Islanders hunker down to stay warm, have friends over for get-togethers, catch up on reading, and take winter trips.

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the wreck of the Victoria S, and Ocracoke's first automobile accident. You can read it here.

The Road at Rodanthe

If you want to see what is happening at the S-curve on Highway 12 at Rodanthe, click here: http://www.co.dare.nc.us/webcam/mirlo.php

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the wreck of the Victoria S, and Ocracoke's first automobile accident. You can read it here.

Storm Update

The wind has quieted down some this morning, although strong wind and rain battered the village about 3 am. I woke up to rain being driven through the open window and puddling on the bedroom floor. Last night tidewater had covered some roads in the Oyster Creek area, around the southwestern shore of the harbor, near the fish house, and in the middle of the back road.

According to the NCDOT, NC Highway 12 is closed in Dare Co., at the south end of Pea Island due to ocean overwash. The road is not expected to reopen until mid-morning on Friday, Sept. 26th, 2008.

To find out when the Hatteras, Swan Quarter, or Cedar Island ferries will be running call 1-800-BY FERRY.

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the wreck of the Victoria S, and Ocracoke's first automobile accident. You can read it here.

Ferry Update

Wednesday evening information from the NC DOT Ferry Division:

"RALEIGH -- Due to high winds and water, the N.C. Department of Transportation's ferry division has canceled its afternoon runs between Swan Quarter and Ocracoke, [and] Cedar Island and Ocracoke.... [The] Hatteras-Ocracoke ferry route is running on the hour instead of the half hour, and is expected to end service at 6:30 p.m.... Passengers should call 1-800-BY-FERRY for updated information as conditions may continue to change."

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the wreck of the Victoria S, and Ocracoke's first automobile accident. You can read it here.

Wind

Strong northeast winds (right now between 30 & 35 mph) are buffeting Ocracoke Island. According to weather forecasters a high pressure area over New England and a developing low off the Carolinas are combining to produce these conditions. Outside my window the trees are swaying continuously. I rode out to the beach, but the tide is not up on the ocean side because of the wind direction. We might get some sound side flooding this afternoon at high tide. By then the winds are expected to increase to 50 - 60 mph. Most islanders are expecting that the ferries will quit running sometime today, but I have not yet heard that.

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the wreck of the Victoria S, and Ocracoke's first automobile accident. You can read it here.

Equinox

Yesterday I reported on Bill's bike, but neglected to mention the equinox*, the beginning of autumn. And it sure feels like fall today. Temperatures are in the low 70s, and there is a stiff breeze rustling the trees. Actually the wind velocity is 20 mph or more, with higher winds forecast for tomorrow. Conditions off the coast are creating not only higher than normal winds, but I understand the sea is building also. I'll walk out to the beach later today and see for myself. This is the kind of weather that energizes folks, and reminds us once again that we live in a remarkable place.

*The tilt of the earth's axis, and the earth's revolution around the sun create the solstices (when the sun is highest in the sky [mid-summer, the longest day of the year], and lowest in the sky [mid-winder, the shortest day of the year]), and the two equinoxes (spring and fall) when the days are of equal length.

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the wreck of the Victoria S, and Ocracoke's first automobile accident. You can read it here.

Bill's Bike (2)

I heard from Bill earlier today. He had heard from one of the deputies that they'd located his bike. But he didn't have any more information. So I thought I'd wait for the complete story before posting.

So here is the latest news about the bike: It was discovered at the north end of the island, abandoned on a sandy lane near the ferry docks. And it was undamaged. However, Bill's outgoing mail (which was in the basket) was missing.

Here is my theory: Island visitors, on the way to Hatteras Inlet, spied the "free" bike, and hastily loaded it into their pickup. When they arrived at the ferry they inspected the bike and discovered the outgoing mail, and realized their mistake. Not wanting to drive back to the village, they left the bike at the north end and took the mail to the post office back home (let's hope they did that).

We'll probably never know the true story, but this one works for me.

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the wreck of the Victoria S, and Ocracoke's first automobile accident. You can read it here.

Bill's Bike

The sign in my driveway said "Free Stuff, Take Anything You Want." Bill Jones came by to chat. We were sitting on the back porch when we heard a pickup truck stop, and then heard a tailgate open and close. The vehicle hadn't been gone more than a minute when we walked out front to discover that Bill's bike had disappeared.

Bill admits that he shouldn't have parked his bike next to the Give-Away sign. But he would like his bicycle back. He has searched the village, and hasn't been able to locate the bike. If any of our readers knows where his bike is please let me know (252-928-5541). It has the letters HINC and duct tape with "Lida Jones" on the bar.

I told Bill that the whole thing was worth it just for the story that we can tell for years. He reluctantly agreed, but he isn't as amused as the rest of us!

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the wreck of the Victoria S, and Ocracoke's first automobile accident. You can read it here.

Pirates

Last night Frank Brown commented to me, "Isn't 'Talk Like a Pirate Day' coming up soon?"

"It's sometime in September," I said.

Sure enough, it was yesterday. But, according to the official "Talk Like a Pirate Day" web site, "September 19th falls on a Friday this year, so some folks are partyin' all Talk Like A Pirate weekend."

So this is your opportunity. Don your tri-cornered hat, grab your cutlass & grog, and hoist the skull and crossbones above your deck. Aye matey, then ye kin impress yer shipmates and catch the attention of nearby land lubbers this weekend by hollering over the taffrail, "Avast ye slimy bilge rats, lay down yer arms, man the boat hooks, and come aboard! There's plenty of rum for everyone."

Here's the official "Talk Like a Pirate Day" web address:
http://www.talklikeapirate.com/piratehome.html

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the wreck of the Victoria S, and Ocracoke's first automobile accident. You can read it here.

Middle of September

It's that time of year again. Traffic to the island has slowed down, so it's not quite as busy. The temperature has dropped (it's been in the 70s lately), and today it's sunny with about a 20 mph breeze. Yesterday I commenced cleaning out the shed behind my house. I'll continue with that project again today. With milder temperatures, and fewer interruptions I'm making good progress. If you're on the island take a stroll down Lawton Lane. I've made a "Free Stuff" pile out by the road. Take what you want (wine rack, dryer vent, hot plate, bicycle, etc.).

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the wreck of the Victoria S, and Ocracoke's first automobile accident. You can read it here.

USLSS

Yesterday I led a group of NCCAT teachers on a walking history tour of Ocracoke village. Their theme was "Living on the Edge," perfect for Ocracoke! I was especially interested in sharing some of the history of the US Life Saving Service. It is a fascinating story of courage and bravery that has been virtually ignored by most historians.

Taking my cue from the folks who offer historic presentations at Chicamacomico Life Saving Station on Hatteras Island, I asked the teachers how many of them had studied the Pony Express in school. Of course, all twenty had. Then I asked how many had studied the USLSS. Only two or three had even heard of this important service!

Here are a few facts:

• The Pony Express employed 183 young men (most of them teenagers), and lasted for just over 18 months.
• The US Life Saving Service employed thousands of men in 279 stations (on the Atlantic and Pacific coasts, and on the Great Lakes).
• The USLSS continued for forty-four years (1871-1915)
• The life savers responded to 28,121 shipwrecks, offering rescue to 178,741 men, women, and children.
• The life savers risked their lives in the most severe conditions (hurricanes, raging seas, and frigid temperatures) and spent many trying times (pulling a 1000 pound beach cart many miles through soft sand and rising sea water) to rescue 177,286 people (over 99% success rate), without regard to victims' nationality, language, color, or politics.
  

The US life savers are truly unsung heroes of the coast.

If you are a teacher, or simply an interested citizen, please take some time to do some research on the Life Saving Service. It is time to remember again the amazing dedication of these brave men, and the valiant service they performed during harsh and unforgiving weather to save the lives of thousands of mariners on ships that wrecked along our coasts.

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the wreck of the Victoria S, and Ocracoke's first automobile accident. You can read it here.

This Friday...

...Marcy & Lou (of the musical duo Coyote), and Gary & Fiddler Dave (of Molasses Creek) will be performing at Howard's Pub, starting at 8:30 pm. Ocracoke Island has a long tradition of home-grown live music. Other local groups (playing rock, country, folk, jazz, and more) perform regularly around the island. We may not be able to list every musical performance, but if any of our local entertainers has a special event planned please leave a comment and we'll post it.

On your next stroll down Howard Street be sure to look over the graveyard fence and notice Edgar Howard's tombstone. I have mentioned Edgar several times before in this journal. He and his brother, Walter, played in New York City in the the '20s & '30s with stars such as Al Jolson, Milton Berle, and Gene Autry. His marker has a banjo carved into it, with the words, "You ain't heard nothing yet!"

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the wreck of the Victoria S, and Ocracoke's first automobile accident. You can read it here.

1933

Today is the anniversary of the storm of 1933 that pummeled Ocracoke Island with winds of over 120 mph. On September 14, 1944 another major hurricane hit Ocracoke with winds of 100 mph or more. I remember hearing of a woman who opened her front door during the storm to see a "wall of water" advancing toward her house. Remarkably, to my knowledge no resident of Ocracoke has ever died from the result of a hurricane, although significant property damage has been done from time to time. On September 18, 2003 hurricane Isabel came ashore on the Outer Banks. Although little damage was done on Ocracoke, Hatteras Island sustained much destruction, including the creation of a new inlet north of Hatteras village.

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the wreck of the Victoria S, and Ocracoke's first automobile accident. You can read it here.

Fish Cakes & Fig Cake

I put together some delicious fish cakes the other night. The night before, I had baked fresh flounder (with fresh basil and butter). So I flaked the left-over flounder and mixed it with spices, onion, horseradish, boiled egg, cocktail sauce, and bacon. David had made soup and bread, so we combined our comestibles (Bill Jones came too, with boiled shrimp), and we enjoyed a wonderful meal together (along with Amy & Lachlan, of course). Lachlan had requested a fig cake, so I made that for dessert.

As my mother's father always said (he was from Hungary), and Lachlan is fond of repeating at the dinner table, "We eat good in America!"

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the wreck of the Victoria S, and Ocracoke's first automobile accident. You can read it here.

Howard Street

I recently located this post card image of Howard Street, taken about 1940 or so. Notice the deep ruts in the soft sand.



Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the wreck of the Victoria S, and Ocracoke's first automobile accident. You can read it here.

Ike & Dead Girl Walking

Ocracokers have been following the news about hurricane Ike. We know so well what a major hurricane can do, and we remain concerned for all of the residents of the Gulf Coast, for their lives and property. With the rest of the nation we will be watching live broadcasts as the storm passes, and hoping for the best.

In Ocracoke Island news, Friday night at Ocracoke's Deepwater Theater residents and visitors gathered for the first public screening of the documentary, Dead Girl Walking. This 36 minute film by Ray Schmitt of Real Earth Productions, follows the life of Ocracoke resident Marcy Brenner who, with her husband, Lou Castro, is an important part of the island's musical scene. Marcy is a breast cancer survivor who was diagnosed with the disease at age 34. The documentary tells her compelling story, and is an inspiration to anyone who has struggled with a life-threatening illness.

A 10-minute trailer of the film can be viewed at this link: http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=--dbO20CoQI

Real Earth Productions maintains the following web site:
http://www.realearthproductions.com

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the wreck of the Victoria S, and Ocracoke's first automobile accident. You can read it here.

Nights in Rodanthe

For all of our readers who have not yet heard, a major motion picture, Nights in Rodanthe, based on the novel by Nicholas Sparks, and filmed on the Outer Banks, is scheduled for release on Friday, September 26.

Not only was most of the movie filmed on Hatteras Island, but several Ocracokers were cast, along with stars Richard Gere and Diane Lane (!), to appear in a musical segment. Look for the following singers/musicians in the movie:

• Jule Garrish, Ocracoker
  
• Katy Mitchell, Ocracoker
  
• Lou Castro, Ocracoker
  
• Marcy Brenner, Ocracoker
  
• Kevin Hardy, Ocracoker
• Jubal Creech, who grew up on Ocracoke
  
• Bob Zentz, long-time Ocracoke friend
  
• "Speedy" Price, from Hatteras
  

You can read more about Nights in Rodanthe here: http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0956038/ and here: http://nightsinrodanthe.warnerbros.com/

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the wreck of the Victoria S, and Ocracoke's first automobile accident. You can read it here.

Waterspouts & Tornadoes

A reader asked recently about waterspouts. We see them occasionally in the water around Ocracoke. They are always impressive, but rarely do damage. Of course mariners keep as far away from them as possible. Occasionally destructive waterspouts/tornadoes will make it to the shore. Several years ago a soundside cottage was hit by a large waterspout/tornado. Luckily, no one was in the building because the turbulence lifted the entire house off the ground, carried it into the sound, and blew it apart. All that was left were the concrete steps and the old concrete cistern. You can still see the empty lot at the end of North Pond Road.

Here is more information about waterspouts from Wikipedia:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Waterspout

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the wreck of the Victoria S, and Ocracoke's first automobile accident. You can read it here.

Power

In a comment about the electricity going on and off recently a reader asked about emergency generators on Ocracoke. Frankly, our power has been extremely reliable in recent years, unlike many times in the 1970s (and later) when we had frequent power surges, black outs, and brown outs.

With that said, we still have occasional power failures (from storms, hurricanes, waterspouts, accidents, etc.). Ocracoke is at the end of a long line of electric wires. Any disruption anywhere along that route, and our power goes out. Our electricity provider, Tideland Electric Cooperative, has a large generator here on the island for use during major and prolonged outages (I am reminded of the time that a barge struck the Oregon Inlet bridge and took out several hundred feet of the structure, along with the electric cable). But it is expensive to fire up the generator, so it is employed only rarely.

We have a small generator here at Village Craftsmen. It is not large enough to power our heating and air conditioning system, but it does allow us to keep lights on and run our calculators and credit card machines. A few other businesses (mainly restaurants and grocery stores) have more powerful generators to run their entire buildings, including freezers, coolers, and air conditioners.

Generally, the power is not off long enough to thaw out a home freezer (as long as the door is kept closed). However, power surges, rapidly fluctuating current, and brown outs can be very destructive to electric motors (fans and such), and to compressors (e.g. refrigerators and air conditioners). It helps to turn these off, or unplug them .

It is not often that we have want of a generator, but a number of people have them for emergencies. It is important to use a generator safely. One of the most dangerous practices is backfeeding from a home generator into the municipal power grid. I found this article that explains the dangers: http://www.cmpco.com/UsageAndSafety/electricalsafety/GeneratorSafety/backfeed.html

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the wreck of the Victoria S, and Ocracoke's first automobile accident. You can read it here.

Waterspout

The power was off again yesterday afternoon. No one I spoke with knew why. Tropical Storm Hanna had passed us by, but we were still having problems with electricity. Last night a friend told me that a waterspout had touched down on Hatteras Island and knocked out power lines (our electricity comes to Ocracoke via a cable under Hatteras Inlet).

Over the last several days I have heard reports of several waterspouts. I don't have any photos of the Ocracoke twisters, but I did find the following on-line:

• This is a video of a recent waterspout on Hatteras (maybe the one that took out the power line???) -- you can watch it here.
• These are several photos of a Hatteras Island waterspout from several years ago. Though dated, the images are very good -- you can see them here.
  

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the wreck of the Victoria S, and Ocracoke's first automobile accident. You can read it here.

Humid

Everyone I talk with is complaining about the humidity. The air is just "heavy" and stifling. In addition, the power has been blinking on and off since Hanna passed by. I don't know what is causing it, but I've heard of at least one refrigerator that "gave up the ghost" because of the power surges.

There is still a threat of rip currents, so please pay attention if you choose to go in the water. I know this won't last, and we are all delighted that there are no storms threatening the Outer Banks at this time.

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the wreck of the Victoria S, and Ocracoke's first automobile accident. You can read it here.

Back to Normal

Nearly everything is back to normal this morning, although the power has been off periodically since midday yesterday. And authorities are warning about the threat of rip currents throughout today. Apparently the residual effects from Hanna are combining with swells from hurricane Ike down in the Bahamas. I'll check out the surf later this afternoon. I'm sure the ferries are all running again so it won't be long before visitors are back on the island once more.

Although we here on Ocracoke are feeling fortunate that Ike does not appear to be heading in our direction, we are all keeping our eyes on this powerful storm, and hoping for the best for the residents of the Gulf Coast.

This is definitely the time of year for storms and hurricanes. On this date in 1846 a severe storm opened both Hatteras and Oregon Inlets.

(See my comment on yesterday's post about putting cars on higher ground during storms.)

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the wreck of the Victoria S, and Ocracoke's first automobile accident. You can read it here.

Hanna (5)

Our power has been off for about an hour and a half. It just came back on. It is still windy out there -- maybe 30 mph with gusts of 35 - 40. But there is no tide in the village. I am guessing that Hanna will soon be past us. I understand that all ferry service to Ocracoke was suspended. I expect service across Hatteras Inlet to begin again later today. Call this number for the latest information on all ferry routes: 1-800-BY-FERRY.

Emergency Management never called for an evacuation of Ocracoke, although the National Park was evacuated, and beach access ramps are closed. At this time a few folks are out and about, walking or biking or driving, and I haven't seen or heard about any damage. Unless something noteworthy happens, I probably won't be posting again until tomorrow.

Out thanks to all of our readers who keep us in your thoughts during storms and hurricanes.

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the wreck of the Victoria S, and Ocracoke's first automobile accident. You can read it here.

Hanna (4)

I am glad I trimmed back the limbs from trees around my house and business. Just in the last few minutes the wind and rain have intensified. I'm estimating the gusts at around 35 - 40 mph. Nothing to be worried about, but still it's impressive, knowing it is part of a larger system. The sky is gray and clouds are whizzing by.

Winds now are coming from the southeast. As the storm passes, winds should shift to the southwest. Cars are clustered here and there, perched on all the higher land in the village. We are all hoping that the change in wind direction won't bring significant flooding.

I'll keep you posted as long as I have power.

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the wreck of the Victoria S, and Ocracoke's first automobile accident. You can read it here.

Hanna (3)

There's not a whole lot to report at this time, although Amy, David, Lachlan, and I went out to the beach a little while ago. The tide is ebbing, but it had been up to the base of the dunes, leaving large tidal pools as far as we could see (Lachlan enjoyed splashing about in them). The breakers are large, frothy white, and getting wilder. Wind gusts are up to about 25 mph. Even so, the clouds part now and then, revealing blue skies and bright sunlight.

A reader asked about houses being washed off their piers. It happens sometimes, but I think the last time we had that much damage was in 1944 (the year I was born). In those days weather forecasting and communications were much more primitive, and most islanders, seeing clear blue skies, couldn't believe that a powerful storm was headed towards Ocracoke. During the hurricane a number of boats were pulled from their moorings, and several ended up on the shore. The bow of one was poked through a resident's bedroom window. Many homes had tidewater in them. I remember hearing of one older resident who described looking out her doorway and seeing a "wall of water" rushing toward the village.

I'll be joining David, Amy, Lachlan, and several friends for dinner in about a half hour, then it's off to the Pub to hear David, Gary, Marcy, & Lou play music. Of course, I've got to be back home by 8 to play poker. So I probably won't be posting any more hurricane news until tomorrow morning (unless something dramatic happens). If you don't see anything posted on Saturday it's most likely because the power is out.

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the wreck of the Victoria S, and Ocracoke's first automobile accident. You can read it here.

Hanna (2)

The outer bands of TS Hanna are arriving over the island, but we are mostly getting rain. Wind is still only about 10-15 mph.

A reader asked what my criteria are for leaving. I've been here in 100 mph hurricanes with tide washing over the island, and was glad I stayed (in large part so I could clean up afterward). I guess I'll play it by ear if the forecast is for a category 3 or larger storm. It partly depends on what the trajectory is.

Hanna

I spent all day yesterday trimming limbs from the trees around my house and Village Craftsmen. The day was beautiful, and I wanted to work while I still could. Tropical Storm Hanna is on the way. Forecasters are calling for rain and perhaps thunderstorms today (already this morning the sky is gray, with a 5-10 mph breeze). And Ike may be heading our way also.

By days end yesterday I had three large piles of branches in the yard. It was after 7 o'clock by the time I put away the clippers, chain saw, ladder, and other tools. This morning I'll put my lawn mower up on the porch, batten down the tree house, and move my car to a small hill, but then I can relax and wait.

We are expecting the brunt of Tropical Storm Hanna late tonight and tomorrow with gusts around 60-65 mph. The National Park Service campground has already been evacuated, but I haven't heard of any other evacuation notices. Most islanders are sanguine, having endured other storms more powerful than Hanna is expected to be.

We'll keep you posted.

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the wreck of the Victoria S, and Ocracoke's first automobile accident. You can read it here.

Nuestra Senora De Guadalupe

"[On Sept. 3 , 1750, 258 years ago yesterday,] a Spanish treasure ship laden with a million pieces of eight limped into Ocracoke as the result of storm damage.

"It was a 500-ton frigate [the Nuestra Senora De Guadalupe] and the largest of a five ship flotilla sailing to Spain [that] ran into a hurricane in mid August [one wrecked on the beach and three sank]....

"It did not take long for word to get out that there was a Spanish treasure ship at Ocracoke.

"As if by a miracle, two empty sloops suddenly appeared and offered to take for a modest fee some of the chests of pieces of eight to the Spanish consulate in Norfolk.... [T]he two sloops were loaded. That evening they cut their anchor lines and slipped silently toward the inlet and were never seen again."

The above is from Paul Mosher's booklet, "Pieces of Eight and Ocracoke."

According to Sonny Williamson, in his book, "Shipwrecks of Ocracoke Island," "[t]he most convincing evidence of these wrecks appeared in the fall of 1992 when a Spanish coin (silver 2 reals) was found on the western beach at Cape Lookout. This coin was on display in the keepers' quarters at the Cape Lookout Lighthouse."

When you are walking along our beach, be sure to keep your eyes open for treasures from the sea!

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the wreck of the Victoria S, and Ocracoke's first automobile accident. You can read it here.

Teenagers, Knives, & High Tide

There seems to have been some misunderstanding about what exactly happened last week re. my blog about Teenagers and Knives. Readers might want to re-read the post, and the comments (including a clarification by me). You can use this link to go directly to it:
Teenagers & Knives

In other news, Tropical Storm Hanna was causing large waves and high tides on Ocracoke Island yesterday. Water had been washing up over the berm and lapping at the base of the dunes. Seaweed and shell fragments were deposited at the high tide line, and shallow tidal pools had formed on the normally dry beach. As I walked from the lifeguard beach towards the campground I looked for seashells & starfish, but there were few intact specimens to be found.

Otherwise, we have had no effect from Hanna. Sunlight and shadows dapple white picket fences in the village, and folks are going about their business, enjoying the first hints of impending autumn. We might get some rain later in the week, but for now life is sunny and bright.

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the wreck of the Victoria S, and Ocracoke's first automobile accident. You can read it here.

Another Beautiful Day

With windows open and temperatures in the 70s, this day is starting out perfectly on Ocracoke Island. Besides, the humidity is only 57%, and no mosquitoes attacked me on my walk over to my office. I guess the surf is rough today, although I have not been to the beach yet. Even if rip currents keep me out of the water, a walk along the shore will be energizing. But first I have a meeting at the Ocracoke Preservation museum. I'd better be on my way! Don't want to be late.

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the wreck of the Victoria S, and Ocracoke's first automobile accident. You can read it here.

Weather

It is that time of year for coastal residents -- watching the weather for news of storms and hurricanes. As Gustav comes ashore in Louisiana (and islanders continue to be concerned for residents of Gulf Coast communities) distant tropical storm Hannah (though very unlikely to be a threat to North Carolina), along with other factors, is causing conditions on our beach that favor rip currents. Public awareness of the nature and causes of rip currents has kept swimmers much safer this summer. More information about rip currents is available from the Eena Project.

Otherwise, Ocracoke is enjoying a sunny morning accompanied by a mild breeze. With temperatures in the 70s, there is even a tiny touch of fall in the air. Many of the Labor Day Weekend visitors will be leaving today, but I've heard that motels and cottages are still full. We'll see what the rest of the week is like.

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the wreck of the Victoria S, and Ocracoke's first automobile accident. You can read it here.

Gustav

Ocracokers, well aware of the power of a category 3 or 4 hurricane, have been following the path of Gustav with concern for New Orleans and the surrounding areas. As grateful as we are to have not had a major storm on the Outer Banks in several years, we are watching tonight's news with trepidation, and hoping that the preparations and evacuations along the Gulf Coast will protect our fellow citizens from the devastation of another Katrina-like hurricane.

Kayaking

Ocracoke is a beautiful island. Take a stroll along the beach and you are greeted with a panorama of sand, sea, and sky. This time of year sea oats wave in the breeze, and fragments of shells wash up with the tide. Soon, numerous pods of dolphins will grace the water just beyond the breakers.

In the village, white clapboard houses enclosed by picket fences stand along sandy lanes, and more than eighty family graveyards bear witness to a long and colorful history. Neighbors stop along the road to chat, or sit on the Community Store porch to share stories.

Today, David, Lachlan, and I, explored the sound shore in kayaks. The unprotected water was choppy as we pointed our slender boats towards Oyster Creek. After passing boats tied to docks, and houses overlooking canals, we ventured up into narrow channels where needle grass covered the banks and bent down to touch the quiet water. Two magnificent snowy egrets were perched in a windswept cedar tree. We were just feet away from them before they flew off.

On the way back we stopped to swim and chat with Morty, a local teenager who was out in his skiff setting his nets. By then Lachlan was getting chilled, so we headed back before we found out if Morty had caught much. Lachlan stretched out with his feet under the bow and let the sun warm him up. We were back home by noon.

Ocracoke is beautiful from almost any perspective -- ocean beach, Howard Street, or the "back of the island" on Pamlico Sound.

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the wreck of the Victoria S, and Ocracoke's first automobile accident. You can read it here.

Teenagers & Knives

Yesterday afternoon I was sitting at my picnic table opening clams when two animated teenagers barged into the back yard. "Can we have a knife?" the fourteen year old boy asked.

"Would this one do?" I asked, holding up the knife I was using.

"No, we need a bigger one.," the thirteen year old girl explained.

"Sure, they're hanging on the wall, just to the left of the refrigerator," I said.

The fourteen year old walked into the house and came out with the knife. "We're cutting up a watermelon," he offered. "Can we use Amy & David's outdoor table? They're not home."

"I'm sure it's OK," I shrugged, and they were gone down the path.

This is one of the many reasons I love calling Ocracoke home. Consider:

• I know both of the young people, and I know they are responsible teenagers. I didn't need to ask them what they wanted with a knife.
  
• I know all of their parents.
• I know that their parents wouldn't hesitate to trust their children with a knife.
• I know that even if they cut themselves I wouldn't have to worry about a lawsuit.

I am certain there other communities in the US where adults can trust teenagers like this, but I'm guessing they are rare. If you live in such a community I want to say two things:

1. Congratulations!
2. Please leave a comment and tell us about your community.

By the way, when they returned the knife they brought me a slice of watermelon. Of course!

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the wreck of the Victoria S, and Ocracoke's first automobile accident. You can read it here.

An Evening Out

Went to the Pub last night with a friend. I hadn't been out to eat in a while. Conversation turned to island life, family & friends, the weather, and national politics. Since I don't have a TV Bill invited me to his house to hear Obama's speech. We decided to take in the Molasses Creek concert first, and their show was excellent. A thirteen year old fiddle player, Harry, from Richmond, joined them for a couple of numbers. What a beautiful sound. Harry was all smiles afterward.

After the speech I biked home and started my latest book, The Mascot, the true story of a small Jewish boy who was orphaned, and then "adopted" by Nazi soldiers in WWII. I could hardly put it down, but sometime after 1 am I turned off the light. I awoke this morning to a sunnier day.

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the wreck of the Victoria S, and Ocracoke's first automobile accident. You can read it here.

Rain

The island needed the rain. Even though it was not a "gully-washer" we did have enough rain this morning to help keep everything green, at least for a while. It seems as if most of the weather systems lately have been rotating around Ocracoke, and dissipating as the clouds move across the sound. Still, forecasters are calling for a 70% chance of precipitation for the remainder of the day, with showers and thunderstorms likely later this evening. Several days ago a number of waterspouts were sighted from the ferry. But it doesn't look like that kind of weather today.

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the wreck of the Victoria S, and Ocracoke's first automobile accident. You can read it here.

Agnes Scott Garrish

Just across the lane from Village Craftsmen is the final resting place of Agnes Scott Garrish, the wife of native Ocracoker, Captain Myron A. Garrish. Over the years several people have asked me if this is the same Agnes Scott for whom Agnes Scott College in Atlanta is named.

Agnes Scott College was founded in 1889 by Col. George Washington Scott, and named in honor of his mother, Agnes Irvine Scott, who was born in 1799 in Ireland, and died 1877 in the United States.

Agnes Scott Garrish is the great-granddaughter of Agnes Irvine Scott. She and other members of her family discovered Ocracoke in the early 20th century, and several of their descendants live on the island today.

Agnes Scott Garrish died August 30, 1919 in Galveston, Texas. This spring a visitor asked if she died in the great Galveston hurricane. The answer is no. The Galveston hurricane struck September 8, 1900, and is still considered one of the deadliest weather disaster in United States history. An estimated 8000 deaths occurred in that storm.

However, another major hurricane (dubbed the Atlantic-Gulf Hurricane) hit Corpus Christi, Texas on September 14, 1919. Agnes Scott Garrish had been dead two weeks when that storm hit. Captain Garrish died on Ocracoke ten years later.

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter is the story of the wreck of the Victoria S, and Ocracoke's first automobile accident. You can read it here.

Ocracoke Newsletter

As promised, we've uploaded another Ocracoke Newsletter. This month I share the story of the wreck of the four-masted schooner, Victoria S, in August of 1925, and Ocracoke's first automobile accident. You can read it all here.

Ocrafolk School

Put it on your schedule! October 26-31. Right here on Ocracoke Island. It is the 2nd annual Ocrafolk School. From Monday to Friday a limited number of students will be immersing themselves in watercolor painting, basketry, island cooking, pottery, Ocracoke history, seafaring traditions, or island ecology.

But that's not all. In addition to daytime classes there are exciting opportunities to visit with instructors and fellow classmates at group dinners, to enjoy some of the best folk music in coastal North Carolina, to learn the old-time Ocracoke square dance, to sail aboard a traditional two-masted schooner, to gather around a bonfire and savor locally caught shrimp, and much more.

There are still several spaces available. For more information please go to http://www.ocrafolkschool.org/.

Listen to what some of our inaugural year students had to say about the Ocrafolk School:

“The class is wonderful,” a student from 2007 said. “I love having the experience of living here with the artists, singing with them, sharing meals with them. I could hardly sleep after the first day – I had thirty ideas in my head all at once!”

“It exceeded all my expectations,” said student Zoe Katz, “and they were high!”

A cooking class student said, “My only regret is that I have but one stomach to give to this meal!”

Local writer Jamie Tunnell said, “I learned so much!” The Ocrafolk Sampler class should be required for everyone who lives here.”

http://www.ocrafolkschool.org/

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter is "One Reason to NOT Move to Ocracoke." You can read it here.

Pioneer & Catherine M. Monohan

Late August, September, & October is historically the most active period for storms on the Outer Banks. The most hurricanes and shipwrecks have been recorded in these months. On August 24, 1842 the brig Pioneer wrecked on our beach. On the same date in 1910 the schooner Catherine M. Monohan came ashore in heavy weather.

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter is "One Reason to NOT Move to Ocracoke." You can read it here.

Victoria S

On this date in 1925, the four-masted schooner, Victoria S, wrecked on Ocracoke's beach. It was one of the shipwrecks that my father remembered well. The brass ship's clock from this vessel hangs on the office wall of the Bluff Shoal Motel. There is an interesting story (Ocracoke's first automobile accident) associated with the wreck of the Victoria S. Look for it in a future Ocracoke Newsletter.

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter is "One Reason to NOT Move to Ocracoke." You can read it here.

Post Office & Storm

Many of our readers know that Ocracoke does not have home delivery of mail. Most of us are happy about that. Going to the post office is a social event in this small community. On the bulletin board there we find out about important meetings, items for sale, activities at the churches, & village potlucks. We see messages from folks who are seeking rides to the airport in Norfolk, or addresses of neighbors who are laid up in the hospital. The post office lobby is also the place to stop and chat with friends, and to catch up on the latest island news. It is a long tradition, going back to the days when the daily mailboat pulled up to the dock in the late afternoon. In those days, it seemed, everyone from the village gathered around, not only to get their mail, but to visit and gossip...and to see if any "strangers" had come over from the mainland.

As an interesting historical note, it was on August 21. 1840, one hundred and sixty-eight years ago yesterday, that William H. Howard was appointed the first postmaster on Ocracoke. I believe this was the first post office established on the Outer Banks.

On today's date in 1933 (August 22), a severe storm passed over Ocracoke. Hurricane force winds pummeled the island, and tidewater was knee deep in the village.

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter is "One Reason to NOT Move to Ocracoke." You can read it here.

Crab Quiche

A couple of days ago David and I put another meal together (Amy was off island for the day). David made two crusts (one was an experiment...he added a bit of fig juice to the mixture), and brought over a yellow and a red bell pepper from his garden. I picked the crab meat, cut up onion and broccoli, and put together the egg mixture. I also made a refreshing summertime salad of cucumber and onion (marinated in water and vinegar). Friends from the mainland (Michael & Constance) came with a bottle of wine, and we sat down to a delicious dinner. Michael entertained us with a magic trick, and I brought out my wooden dancing man (a "limber-jack" it's called). Alas, I had to leave to meet my walking tour, so I left the cleanup for my guests! I believe they'll come back again, anyway.

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter is "One Reason to NOT Move to Ocracoke." You can read it here.

1887

It is warm and beautiful this morning, and mostly sunny, with a few clouds passing by. A slight breeze is barely rustling the leaves and small branches outside my window. It must not have been so one hundred and twenty-one years ago. On this date in 1887 two schooners, the Cherybin and the A.J. Marine, both wrecked at Hatteras Inlet. Although no lives were lost then, thanks to the bravery of the Ocracoke life saving crew, over the years, especially before the station was established here in 1883, many seafarers died when their vessels fetched up on our beach in stormy weather. Most of the dead were buried in unmarked graves in the dunes near where their bodies washed ashore. It is a part of our maritime history that most tourists on the Outer Banks never think about. On your next visit to the beach take a moment to reflect on the many sailors who lost their lives here in gales and hurricanes, and whose bodies lie under the blowing sand. They are a significant part of our long seafaring heritage.

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter is "One Reason to NOT Move to Ocracoke." You can read it here.

Early Morning Walk

In truth, it wasn't so early. I arrived on the beach about 8:30 am. But no one else was there. Mine was the only car in the parking area, and the beach was empty as far as I could see in each direction. What a peaceful walk I had. For an hour I trudged through soft sand and rising tide, but it was worth it. For the first time in several weeks I spied a pod of dolphins gracefully making their way north. The sky was bright and sunny, and sea oats swayed gently on the dunes.

By the time I arrived back where I'd started about a dozen folks had staked out their spots above the tide line. I took off my shirt, and laid my glasses inside my hat. The waves were large, and crashed on the shore, spraying droplets in a wide arc behind the breakers. I pushed through the churning water and discovered that just behind the breakers those impressive waves rolled in towards the shore in the most gentle fashion. There I could relax and swim, float, and bob about for a bit. And then it was time to head back home.

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter is "One Reason to NOT Move to Ocracoke." You can read it here.

Drime

Last night I watched Walt Wolfram's latest DVD from the North Carolina Language and Life Project. It is a beautifully produced documentary on the unique dialects of Coastal North Carolina. A number of Ocracokers are featured, including several who have died since the recording was made. It was sad to be reminded of those colorful characters who have made such an impact on this island. Hats off to Walt who has celebrated and documented this distinctive brogue, and who has become good friends with many islanders in the process.

Many local words are featured in the DVD, including "drime," a word more common in the mainland coastal communities, but sometimes heard on Ocracoke. As one user posted on Urban Dictionary, drime (pronounced "droime") means "An expression of absolute dismay. Similar in usage to "damn" with no redeeming qualities." As an example, one might say, "Drime! Those digbatters are walkin' right down the center of Highway 12 again."

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter is "One Reason to NOT Move to Ocracoke." You can read it here.

Fowler & Chloe

Yesterday afternoon, as I was hanging out my laundry, Fowler & Chloe stopped by. I gladly laid down my clothespins and we walked to the screened porch where we drank ginger ale and chatted for more than an hour about family, local politics, and islanders long gone. Fowler, who is older than Chloe, was born in 1921, and is a treasure trove of island lore. With his classic seafaring tattoos and colorful language, Fowler can keep you entertained all afternoon. In the course of the hour, conversation turned to Walter & Edgar Howard, talented musicians who played the vaudeville circuit in the 1920s & 1930s. (Edgar's grave is on Howard Street, and has a banjo carved into the marker, along with the words, "You Ain't Heard Nothing Yet!")

Fowler mentioned several long-forgotten songs that Walter and Edgar often played. Fowler and Chloe, as well as every islander who knew Walter and Edgar, routinely comment on the brothers' talent and intelligence. Some of their songs were bawdy barroom tunes, and I won't mention them on this journal. But one was a peppy and spirited ditty that reflected our Irish island heritage. Fowler remembered the name, The Irish Jubilee, though not the lyrics. Thanks to Mr. Google, I located it on the web. Here is one rendition I found on Youtube: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SRzn6fGIIc0. Maybe Molasses Creek will learn it one day!

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter is "One Reason to NOT Move to Ocracoke." You can read it here.

Old August Storm & Mirlo Rescue

On this date:

• In 1899 the old "August Storm" roared across Ocracoke Island causing considerable damage. Reports indicate that winds reached as high as 12o mph. Although the sea tide rushed through the village floating buildings off their foundations, and hurricane force winds blew down trees and lifted roofs off of houses, not a single life was lost.
• In 1918 the life savers of Hatteras Island, under the command of John Allen Midgett rescued 42 crew members of the British steamer, Mirlo. This dramatic rescue earned Midgett and his men the British Grand Cross for their bravery. Their citation reads:
  
  "In a heavy northeast sea that caused the lifeboat to be tossed back upon the beach and the crew washed away from the oars time after time. Undaunted they returned to their task. After succeeding in getting their boat through the surf they were compelled to steer into a blazing inferno where the flames leaped at least 500 feet high, and were in serious danger of being burned to death if not drowned. They picked up a number of the crew of the Mirlo and towed four of the ship's boats ... They anchored the boats beyond the breakers and then made four trips in their surf boat bringing the entire 42 survivors safely ashore."
  

You can read more about the heroic Mirlo rescue here:

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter is "One Reason to NOT Move to Ocracoke." You can read it here.

268 Steps

My western NC family (Stefen, Snee, Zoe, Eakin, & Eliza) and I left early this morning on a day trip to Hatteras. Our first stop was the Cape Hatteras Lighthouse. The park was very quiet and we were able to purchase our tickets and immediately fall in line for the next group ready to climb the tallest lighthouse in the nation. At 208 feet, the Hatteras tower is more than two and a half times as tall as our very own Ocracoke light. We tackled the 268 steps of the antique spiral staircase with enthusiasm, and in short order we were standing on the outer balcony with a commanding view of Hatteras Island, the Atlantic Ocean, and Pamlico Sound. Built in 1870, and moved to its present location in 1999, the Hatteras lighthouse is a marvel to behold. If you haven't yet visited this historic structure, and climbed to the top, put it on your list of must-do activities.

After the climb we toured the nearby keeper's quarters, then drove up the beach to Rodanthe where we watched the beach apparatus drill at the restored Chicamacomico Life Saving Station.

What a fun day!

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter is "One Reason to NOT Move to Ocracoke." You can read it here.

Fish & Crabs

Amy, Lachlan, & I joined my son and his children yesterday for an afternoon swimming in the Sound. The water was so warm and inviting, and the bottom, sandy. We had the best time. With goggles we peered underwater looking for small fish. They were all around us, but we hadn't brought a net, so we never could catch any.

Later on the two bigger kids wandered over to the rock jetty where they entertained themselves looking for and picking up hermit crabs. They came in all sizes. The children would set them down at the edge of the water and watch them crawl back to be with the rest of their kind. It provided many minutes of fun.

At the end of the afternoon we hurried through the woods, swatting mosquitoes. The children decided that they wanted to go to the ocean beach again before supper. I just stayed home and took a little rest.

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter is "One Reason to NOT Move to Ocracoke." You can read it here.

Grandchildren

My son and daughter-in-law are here on the island this week with their three children. It is a delight to have them here. The weather is perfect -- cooler than it has been recently, but the ocean temperature is just right. We've all been to the beach every morning so far. The waves have been so much fun -- big enough for body surfing, but not so powerful as to dissuade the younger ones from venturing out. They've also been enjoying building sand castles.

We all had dinner at the Jolly Roger last night where we enjoyed Gary, David, Marcy, & Lou entertain us with classic Americana tunes. Tonight, after dinner, we'll join friends in their living room for some "pickin' & jammin.'" We're planning to visit Springer's Point one day this week, maybe look for clams, take some bike rides, play a few board games & put a jigsaw puzzle together, and make a trip up to Hatteras (to see the lighthouse and the Chicamacomico Life Saving Station) on Thursday. Of course, we'll be back on the beach as much as possible.

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter is "One Reason to NOT Move to Ocracoke." You can read it here.

More New Items

Jaren has been working diligently all spring and summer adding many fine items to our on-line catalog. Just in the last few months she has added homemade Ocracoke fig preserves, authentic sea glass jewelry, superbly crafted ships in bottles, delicately carved shorebirds, newly-released CDs by Donald Davis & Fiddler Dave, elegant blown glass vases, artistic wooden kitchen items, and much more.

Be sure to check out our "What's New" Page and our Complete On-line Catalog.

We ship Monday - Friday, and can process most orders in just a day or two. Don't forget Village Craftsmen when you are looking for gifts for birthdays, anniversaries, and holidays. Our fine handmade American crafts are always a pleasure to give or receive.

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter is "One Reason to NOT Move to Ocracoke." You can read it here.

Ocracoke Newsletter

We've published another one of our monthly Ocracoke Newsletters. This month's article is entitled "One Reason to NOT move to Ocracoke." You can read it here.

Fig Preserves

Figs are ripening all over the island. In a time-honored tradition, kitchen stoves in the village are fired up to boil the figs and put them up as preserves.

Figs Fresh From the Tree:



A Batch of Figs Cooking:



Village Craftsmen has just received several cases of delicious fig preserves from an island family that has been making them for generations.

You can order your 2008 Ocracoke fig preserves by clicking here. They're tasty spread on homemade bread, used as a topping on ice cream, or (Ocracokers' favorite) used as the main ingredient in island fig cake. The recipe is on our web site. Just click here.

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter is Lou Ann's account of installing an old-fashioned pitcher pump. You can read it here.

Osprey

Walking the beach at Ocracoke is always a satisfying activity. We commonly see gulls, willets, terns, & sanderlings. It is not unusual to see pelicans flying slowly beyond the breakers, their wing tips inches above the rolling waves, often in groups of three, four, five, or more. Sometimes a black billed skimmer glides by improbably close to the shoreline, its lower mandible skimming through the water, searching for small fish.

Yesterday afternoon I was rewarded with seeing a single osprey circling above the breakers just ahead of me as I walked down the beach. It was obviously looking for prey. But I never saw it swoop down and pluck a fish from the water. In short order it had moved too far up the beach to see. But I felt honored to share a deserted section of our beach with such a graceful and elegant bird.

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter is Lou Ann's account of installing an old-fashioned pitcher pump. You can read it here.

Life-Saving

For the last two days I have been immersed in stories of shipwrecks and life-savers. Last night at the Opry I shared the story of the wreck of the Pioneer (a wooden steamer loaded with general cargo that ran aground on Ocracoke in 1889). This morning I spent two hours with teachers at the NCCAT (NC Center for the Advancement of Teachers) center talking about the US Life Saving Service and rescues using the breeches buoy.

Readers of this journal might want to take some time to research the Life Saving Service. Recently someone pointed out to me that nearly everyone has heard of and studied the Pony Express. This service operated for only 18 months and employed 183 riders, mostly young men in their 20s. In contrast, the Life Saving Service operated for 45 years, included approximately 280 stations, and employed over 2,000 men. They were instrumental in saving the lives of countless mariners, often risking their own lives in gales and hurricanes to rescue, not only fellow Americans, but seafarers from distant countries who often spoke languages they didn't understand. In spite of this, very few people are familiar with the Life Saving Service. How could it be that we all know about the Pony Express, but so few know about the Life Savers? It's time to change that. Here is a good place to start: http://www.lifesavingservice.org/

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter is Lou Ann's account of installing an old-fashioned pitcher pump. You can read it here.

Birthday Cookout

Amy & David invited friends over for an midday cookout yesterday. It was Lachlan's official birthday party. Rain in the morning threatened to derail the festivities, but skies cleared before 11 am. A galvanized tub filled with water balloons attracted the children's attention, and in no time at all they were running around wet and/or shirtless, or both. We grilled hamburgers and hot dogs, and the adults chatted under the shade of the cedars and live oaks while the children ate and played. A Thomas the Train cake with four candles emerged after noon, and was soon gone. Towards the end of the party five brave couples marched to the Village Craftsmen parking lot (it was uncharacteristically empty) and engaged themselves in a water balloon toss. Lou Ann & I won!

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter is Lou Ann's account of installing an old-fashioned pitcher pump. You can read it here.

Martin Garrish

For years Lou Ann and I have spent our Sunday evenings at the open-air Jolly Roger restaurant listening to local guitarist, Martin Garrish, & Friends. This year Gary Mitchell, David Tweedie, Marcy Brenner, and Lou Castro are providing the entertainment there. It is still wonderful (of course it is; they are all outstanding musicians), but we hadn't heard Martin all summer (he's moved to Monday evenings at Howard's Pub where he has air conditioning and no stress about thunderstorms). So last night we joined friends at a large table near the band and stayed until their last number, sometime before midnight. Martin, accompanied by Marcy and Lou, as well as Aaron Caswell and Jackie Willis, kept us enthralled with so many of their trademark songs, especially Emmylou Harris' "If I Needed You," which Martin dedicated to Lou Ann and me. It was a night to remember.

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter is Lou Ann's account of installing an old-fashioned pitcher pump. You can read it here.

Women's Opry

Lou Ann and the rest of the women who put together their 2nd annual show on Saturday night were mightily pleased with their performance. Kitty Mitchell completed an original oil painting on stage as the women entertained the audience with stories and music illustrating the life of an island woman from sunrise to sunset. Everyone had a stellar experience, judging by the enthusiastic applause and smiling faces. Unfortunately, several people were turned away at the door because every seat was taken before the opening number commenced.

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter is Lou Ann's account of installing an old-fashioned pitcher pump. You can read it here.

Brunch at the Melon

Lou Ann & I haven't eaten out much this summer. Mostly we've enjoyed cooking and eating at home. Last night I made a spinach lasagna and Lou Ann made bread and a fig cake. David & Amy brought salad. We had a grand time sharing with family and friends, and then Amy & Lou Ann strolled over to Howard Street to greet folks assembling for their Ghost & History Tours. Clay, my brother, and I cleaned up the kitchen, then made our way to a small cottage to play poker.

Today at 11:30 we gathered at the Flying Melon to celebrate birthdays. Lachlan was delighted to get a camera, art supplies, a Thomas the Train engine, several DVDs, and a helium-filled Mylar dolphin. I was happy with books and a CD/booklet set with instructions for playing the Blues Harmonica (Leonard, give me a few weeks before you stop by with your banjo!).

I'll give a report on tonight's Women's Opry sometime in the next few days (I stopped by the theater this afternoon to drop off my staple gun, hammer and nails, but there was too much estrogen in the air, so I made a hasty retreat!).

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter is Lou Ann's account of installing an old-fashioned pitcher pump. You can read it here.

Family & Island Notes

Family and friends are coming to the island later on today. My brother will be here. And so will Clay & Julie (Clay is one of the potters who displays his work at Village Craftsmen). We're planning a dinner for this evening, and Amy, David, & Lachlan will be joining us.

Tomorrow is Lachlan's fourth birthday (and my sixty-fourth), and we'll be enjoying brunch at one of the local restaurants.

At 8 o'clock tomorrow evening a group of talented island women will be presenting their second annual "Ocracoke Women's Opry." If you're on the island be sure to make plans to attend. Tickets (sold at the door) are $10.00. My advice: be there early; they might very well sell out.

Our latest Ocracoke Newsletter is Lou Ann's account of installing an old-fashioned pitcher pump. You can read it here.