Turkey Sandwiches

Like most Americans, many Ocracokers celebrate Thanksgiving with turkey and all of the fixings. The Howard family is no exception. About a dozen family members and friends gathered around my dining room table yesterday for good food and good conversation. We always repeat one of my grandfather's observations. Grandpop Guth was my mother's father, and he was born in Hungary. He came to the U.S. as a young man. Almost every time we sat down at the dinner table he would remark on the abundance of delicious and healthful food we enjoy in this country. "We eat good in America!" he would exclaim. Lachlan chimes in with the rest of us. "We eat good in America!"

Today is no exception. My kitchen table was piled with leftovers at lunch today. We had turkey sandwiches, mashed potatoes, sweet potatoes, green beans, deviled eggs....and much more. And we'll enjoy more again this evening before we head over to the Community Center for the annual Fall fund raiser for the June, Ocrafolk Festival. If you're on the island we hope to see you there.

Our latest Newsletter is an article about Blackbeard the pirate and new research that suggests he may have been born in eastern North Carolina. You can read it here.

Happy Thanksgiving!

Dallie, Jude, and I wish all of our readers a very happy Thanksgiving. We will be closed on Thursday so we can enjoy our turkey dinners with family and friends. My brother arrives on the island tonight, but I need to be gone much of tomorrow (I've got an appointment with my eye doctor in Elizabeth City). I'm sure he'll be able to entertain himself.

Since I won't be on the island tomorrow, and we'll be closed on Thanksgiving Day, this will be the last post for a couple of days.

Coincidentally, Thanksgiving Day this year is on November 22, the anniversary of the capture and killing of Blackbeard the pirate right here in Ocracoke waters in 1718.

Don't eat too much turkey or dessert!

Our latest Newsletter is an article about Blackbeard the pirate and new research that suggests he may have been born in eastern North Carolina. You can read it here.

Mid November

It's been warming up again today. People have been out and about in light jackets, even shorts. Children are racing bicycles down the streets. Neighbors are walking their dogs. David has been scraping paint off of his window frames and priming them. I've seen Blanche picking up dead branches in the graveyards across the street. And tomorrow should be even warmer. The forecast for Thanksgiving is temperatures in the low 70s.

Visitors are arriving for one last week on the island. Some are first timers. Others have been here many times. They all are looking forward to a delightful autumn week, and we who live here are as well.

Our latest Newsletter is an article about Blackbeard the pirate and new research that suggests he may have been born in eastern North Carolina. You can read it here.

A Homemade Kite

Lachlan and I made our kite yesterday (well, OK, I made the kite....Lachlan mostly ran around and got more and more excited). It is a paper diamond kite. Pretty standard, actually, at least for the kinds of kites I remember making as a kid.

There were a few last minute details to attend to this morning. We tied on the bed sheet tail and attached the string to the "keel" (the extra string that goes from the top of the kite to the bottom), and then we were off to the beach.

The wind was just about right, it seemed. But down on the flat beach we couldn't get the kite to stay up. The dunes were blocking the breeze. So we climbed to the top of the dunes and let 'er go. Out kite soared up into the sky. Every once in a while we'd have to move backwards or tighten up on the string to keep our beauty flying, but eventually it climbed high enough that we could tie our string down to the walk-over ramp and attend to other pressing matters like building sand castles and just running around. Every now and then we'd see the kite's shadow against the dunes. When we'd look up she was hovering gracefully like a benevolent spirit watching over us.

The next time we go kite flying I'll take my camera and post a picture.

Our latest Newsletter is an article about Blackbeard the pirate and new research that suggests he may have been born in eastern North Carolina. You can read it here.

Another Wonderful Link

The last two weeks of October were busy ones for me. I helped teach the "Ocracoke Sampler" for our OcraFolk School, and I participated in an NCCAT seminar on ghost tales. But I'm sure I've already mentioned these. During those same weeks a gentleman from South Carolina was on the island absorbing much about Ocracoke and our close-knit community. He was fortunate to learn about our special Opry performance (for the OcraFolk School, but open to the general public), and square dance. I met him briefly during intermission, and then again when he stopped by the Village Craftsmen before he left on his way home.

Several days ago I was alerted to his personal blog site, "Balance, Celebration and Search" where he posted reflections on nine days of his vacation on Ocracoke. His name is Steve, and he is a pastor from South Carolina. He graciously agreed for me to provide a link to his site. In addition to some remarkable photographs (including a modern-day shipwreck that I had heard about but never got to see), Steve captures many of the sentiments visitors feel, especially their captivation with Ocracoke Island and its people. His verbal images and "turns of phrase" make for delightful reading....and his blog site is crisp, clean, and inviting.

To read his posts just click on this link, Balance, and scroll to his posts for Oct 24 - Nov 1. I hope you enjoy them as much as I did.

Our latest Newsletter is an article about Blackbeard the pirate and new research that suggests he may have been born in eastern North Carolina. You can read it here.

Cold Front

I recently received an email from a gentleman who had joined me for a Ghost & History Walk several weeks ago. The email contained a link to his web site (Canyon Rim Photography). He has posted 38 photos of his recent trip to Ocracoke. You can see his pictures by clicking here. The images are wonderful; his sunrises and sunsets are particularly stunning. Enjoy!

Ocracoke has been basking in warm, almost summer-like weather practically all Fall. That changed overnight. Actually it changed yesterday. In the morning we had even turned the A/C on for about an hour. Until early-mid afternoon doors and windows were flung open. The temperature outside was in the mid-70s. As the afternoon progressed, however, a cold front moved through and the temperature dropped quickly. This morning the mercury had fallen into the low 40s, about a 35 degree difference. The air is crisp and clear.

To be honest, this more normal November weather feels invigorating and refreshing.

Our latest Newsletter is an article about Blackbeard the pirate and new research that suggests he may have been born in eastern North Carolina. You can read it here.

A Kite

Lachlan wants me to make him a kite! I can't do it today, because I'm working, but I think it's a grand idea. Of course I could go down to Kitty Hawk Kites and buy him a plastic kite. It would be colorful and maybe even exotic. But how much more fun it would be to cut two sticks, tie them together with string to make a cross, and paste paper over them. We could cut up an old bed sheet (maybe a colorful one) and make a tail. Then we could head out to the beach and watch her fly!

Today would have been a good day to fly a kite, at least in the morning. The wind was blowing about 25 mph (maybe it would have even been too windy!). But now it's raining and the temperature is dropping.

I'll get the materials together, and maybe we can make our kite this weekend. If you see a paper diamond-shaped kite in the air out at the beach look for Lachlan and me. We might even let you fly it for a bit.

Our latest Newsletter is an article about Blackbeard the pirate and new research that suggests he may have been born in eastern North Carolina. You can read it here.

An Historical Note

I'm three days late, but just wanted to acknowledge that Sunday, November 11 was the 288th anniversary of the granting of Ocracoke Island by the Lords Proprietors to John Lovick, the first individual to hold ownership of the island. OK, so it's not something many people think about, but I believe that a sense of shared history is one thing that helps keep a community bound together.

Another thing that maintains a close community is productive public meetings. Last night Hyde County officials met with a group of concerned citizens regarding how to pay for solid waste collection and removal on Ocracoke Island. At the present time much of the cost for this service is hidden in our tax bills. In addition there is much inequity in the additional fee structure. For instance the additional county fees for solid waste disposal make no distinction among businesses, whether they are small or large, or whether they generate much trash or hardly any.

Citizens were encouraged to submit comments about the three options presented, and there were many thoughtful and intelligent questions raised. It was a well-conducted and productive meeting. We are all hoping that our county commissioners will endorse a fair and equitable system that puts minimum burden both on home owners and business owners.

Our latest Newsletter is an article about Blackbeard the pirate and new research that suggests he may have been born in eastern North Carolina. You can read it here.

Murder Mystery Weekend

What a full weekend. Lou Ann arrived late afternoon on Friday. She was on the island to host a Murder Mystery interactive evening at the Cove B & B. Twenty guests from various states booked rooms just to be part of this weekend's fun. Lou Ann provided everyone with general information about the time and setting (it was 1823, a fierce storm was brewing, and the guests at the inn were brought together to solve a tragic murder that occurred during dinner). There was a ship captain (in frock coat, breeches, and a plumed hat!), a local fisherman, a distraught widow, a laundress, a seamstress, the town gossip, a circuit riding preacher, a ship builder, and other characters.

During a heated poker game mock tensions arose. Accusations flew, guests whispered back and forth, and the preacher was busy calming people's fears. Everything settled down long enough to enjoy a delicious catered dinner (from the Flying Melon restaurant), but then one of the guests died suddenly. Who done it?

The rest of the evening was devoted to an inquiry. When the evening was over everyone agreed that it was totally fun, with many opportunities to play, exaggerate, act, and perform. We all voted for best actor, best actress, and best costume. Lou Ann awarded trophies.

If your family or group is interested in hosting a Murder Mystery on Ocracoke, take a look at our Murder Mystery web page.

Our latest Newsletter is an article about Blackbeard the pirate and new research that suggests he may have been born in eastern North Carolina. You can read it here.

Back Home Again

Yes, I've been off the island (the reason for several days without a post), but only for today. Well, I was off island on Friday as well. I drove to Norfolk to pick up Lou Ann (that was Friday), and back to Norfolk again today (to carry her back to the airport). We had a fun and wonderful weekend. Lou Ann came to the island to orchestrate a Murder Mystery Weekend at the Cove Bed and Breakfast (I'll share more about that in another post). While she was here Tommy Hutcherson and Kathy Ballance O'Neal were married. Lou Ann and I stopped by their party on Friday night and went to the wedding (and reception) on Saturday. We also had an opportunity to be part of a pot luck dinner last night in honor of Julia Child.

It's hard to imagine how we squeezed it all in -- in a matter of four days (and two of them involved ten hours, or more, of travel)! Let's just say we were creatively busy. And folks often wonder what we do here all winter.....and don't we "get bored" on this little island. Not on your life!

I'll try to catch you up on things in the next few days. Right now I need to unload my car and give Lou Ann a call. I'll be back tomorrow.

Our latest Newsletter is an article about Blackbeard the pirate and new research that suggests he may have been born in eastern North Carolina. You can read it here.

Preservation

Last night Ocracoke Preservation Society held its annual meeting and pot luck dinner. Everyone agreed that the spread of delicious food was truly outstanding. Our guests from the NC state preservation office were especially impressed. After a brief meeting Ried Thomas and Claudia Deviney from the state office presented a Power Point program explaining the ways their organization has helped promote the preservation and rehabilitation of significant historical structures in eastern North Carolina.

Every year since 1989 OPS awards a bronze plaque to be placed on a building in the historic district which has been maintained, restored, or rehabilitated to preserve the architectural features that allowed it to be included as a contributing structure when the historic district was established. This year the award was presented to Paula and Michael Schramel for their work in preserving the James Henry Garrish house on Lighthouse Road. They have done a beautiful job with this house, always abiding by the standards set forth by the state preservation office. Congratulations to Paula and Michael!

Our latest Newsletter is an article about Blackbeard the pirate and new research that suggests he may have been born in eastern North Carolina. You can read it here.

Autumn....Finally

Last night cool winds began to ripple through the village. After weeks of unseasonably warm days it was beginning to seem like Fall. I even put the heat on and settled down for the evening with my latest book.

Today I'll continue concentrating on catching up -- organizing my office, answering emails, writing notes, ordering a new lap top, working on the Village Craftsmen web site. During the busy tourist season, it seems, everything falls to the wayside, and it takes weeks (months even) to "tie up all the loose ends."

Several days ago I was asked, "Will you still be doing any walking tours [ghost and history tours] or is it getting to cold & slow???" Well, it's getting pretty cold and slow! We will be offering a tour on the Friday after Thanksgiving, but otherwise we'll be taking a break until next Spring.

In other news, the NC DOT has published a new website with information on the NC 12 bridge replacement project on Ocracoke Island. You can access their site directly (and keep up-to-date on the project) by going to www.ocracokebridges.com

Our latest Newsletter is an article about Blackbeard the pirate and new research that suggests he may have been born in eastern North Carolina. You can read it here.

More Answers

My last several postings generated a few more questions & comments. It is always interesting to know what folks are curious about, and I'll respond as best I can. Here goes:

• Interesting to hear about the Preservation Society interviews. What's the scope of the project (i.e., is it a focused, ongoing effort or something more casual, lots of people slated to be interviewed, etc.) and will the results be available for the public to view and enjoy? You often mention your friend Muzel. Might she be a subject of a future session?

• Very interested in the Preservation Society interviews...this sounds like a very important work, and one that's missing in so many other communities (and, even in families!). Would be wonderful to know how they plan to be used or published?

The interviewing project is the idea of Clayton Gaskill (island videographer) and Ann Ehringhaus (island photographer). I interviewed Earl O'Neal and Blanche & Bertha, but Ann will be conducting some of the future interviews. They have compiled a list of folks they want to capture on tape/DVD, including Muzel. (By the way, island native, Kathy Ballance, and long-time island resident, Tommy Hutcherson, will be married this weekend. Muzel, who is 103 years old, will be Kathy's maid of honor!) I understand that the interviews will be archived at the Preservation Museum and will be available for research.

• I read your journal all the time I am also wiccan please everyone is not evil there is dark and white good and bad in all walks of life there are some misbelifs when its comes to us I hope that you take the time to read the following to gain a better understanding of Samhain and please also let it be known we do visit your peaceful island every year many of us we harm nobody we are really very peaceful people.

Thank you for your comment. The full text of your comment can be found here. I am a strong defender of the first amendment, which reads in part, "Congress shall make no law respecting an establishment of religion, or prohibiting the free exercise thereof...."

• You didn't mention egging...

Oh yes, egging -- how did this slip my mind??? Egging is a long-time island Halloween tradition. For years island teenagers have gathered in groups on Halloween night armed with cases of eggs which they toss about after dark. The mid 70s may have been the apogee of egg throwing here. Not only did the teenagers store eggs in the woods for weeks (maybe months), but they were indiscriminate about who or what they threw them at. Moving targets were especially tempting. By morning, road signs, commercial signs, cars, businesses, houses, boats, and virtually anything else might be plastered with eggs. In addition, skiffs, loose pilings, signs, and other large but movable objects would often end up across the roadways, in yards, or otherwise disturbed. Over the years parents, deputies, and teachers have been successful in toning down the mischief. Nowadays, it's mostly just egg throwing, and even that is usually confined to groups of kids battling it out amongst themselves. Businesses, neighbors, and automobiles are generally spared, and to my knowledge, the internecine youth rivalries are good-natured and short-lived.

Our latest Newsletter is an article about Blackbeard the pirate and new research that suggests he may have been born in eastern North Carolina. You can read it here.

Monday Morning

Hurricane Noel is already little more than a fleeting memory. This late offshore tropical storm blew by last Friday and Saturday with winds around 50 mph. It shut down the ferries for a while, and caused an electrical blackout for several hours, but otherwise had little impact on Ocracoke.

Yesterday was bright and sunny. David and I carried Lachlan to Springer's Point where he waded in the Sound, explored the shoreline, and ran around looking for treasures. In the afternoon Ann Ehringhaus and I interviewed Blanche Howard Jolliff & Bertha Garrish O'Neal. Clayton Gaskill videoed the two hour session for the Ocracoke Preservation Society. Blanche and Bertha. dressed in their Sunday best, shared stories of hurricanes, childhood games, midwives, windmills, and island life in the early twentieth century. It was a delight to hear their stories. We've got several more interviews planned for future Sunday afternoons.

The sun is shining again this morning, and the temperature will soon be in the upper 60s, I'm sure. Life is good.

Our latest Newsletter is an article about Blackbeard the pirate and new research that suggests he may have been born in eastern North Carolina. You can read it here.

2008 Road Closures

The following press release has been issued by the NCDOT. Please read this carefully if you are planning a visit to the island anytime between January 1, 2008 and mid-March, 2008.

FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE Nov. 2, 2007

Contact: Communications Office, (919) 733-2522

NCDOT GEARING UP FOR REPLACEMENT OF N.C. 12 BRIDGES ON OCRACOKE ISLAND

Lane closures beginning as early as next week

RALEIGH — The N.C. Department of Transportation will begin moving construction materials and equipment onto Ocracoke Island this month in preparation for the N.C. 12 bridge replacements scheduled to start in January 2008.

To prepare for this project, signalized lane closures along N.C. 12 on Ocracoke Island are scheduled to occur as follows:

One of two lanes will be closed in the construction zone beginning as early as Monday, Nov. 5, through Friday, Nov. 16;

All lanes will remain open from Friday, Nov. 16, through Monday, Nov. 26, to accommodate motorists traveling for the Thanksgiving holiday;

One of two lanes will be closed in construction zone from Monday, Nov. 26, to Friday, Dec. 21; and

All lanes will remain open from Friday, Dec. 21 through Wednesday, Jan. 2, to accommodate motorists traveling for the Christmas and New Year's Day holidays.

Beginning on Wednesday, Jan. 2, through Friday, March 15, crews will close access to N.C. 12 on Ocracoke Island to replace seven bridges on the island. Work includes removing the current wooden bridges and replacing them with wider concrete structures. During this time, only four-wheel-drive vehicles will be able to use the established beach detour between the National Park Service campground and the Pony Pens to access the village of Ocracoke. All other vehicles must use the Swan Quarter and Cedar Island ferries to access Ocracoke.

More traveler information as well as ferry schedule changes will be available next month.

NCDOT reminds motorists to stay alert, travel at non-peak times and use alternate routes, when possible. Plan ahead before driving by visiting the NCDOT Traveler Information Management System Web site at www.ncdot.org/traffictravel/ or call 511, the state's toll-free travel information line for current travel conditions.

For more information on this project, please contact Division 1 Maintenance Engineer Sterling Baker at (252) 482-7977.

***NCDOT***

-- Shelley M. Winters Public Information Officer NCDOT Communications Office
(919) 733-2522 (919) 733-9980 (fax)

E-mail correspondence to and from this address is subject to the North Carolina Public Records Law and may be disclosed to third parties.

Our latest Newsletter is an article about Blackbeard the pirate and new research that suggests he may have been born in eastern North Carolina. You can read it here.

Some Answers

Recently I received several questions about Ocracoke and Portsmouth islands. Below, I post the questions along with my answers.

• "How is Halloween observed on the island? Is there some community event; do children trick or treat; is it encouraged or discouraged ? are there any traditions for this Day?Do residents decorate & carve pumpkins; how about some photos too??"

Ocracoke School sponsors an annual Halloween Carnival with a children's costume parade, hot dog sale, games (dunking booth, dart throw, basketball toss, etc.), Quizo (really, it's Bingo), and a Spook Walk down Howard Street. This year it rained a torrent. The Spook Walk was canceled, and rescheduled for the next Friday. The forecast called for high winds that Friday (Tropical Storm Noel), so the whole thing was finally canceled. It is typically one of the highlights of the carnival, with elaborate and realistic vignettes.

Children go trick or treating on Halloween afternoon & evening, but seldom venture down Howard Street. Maybe it's TOO spooky!

Some folks decorate with pumpkins, lights, "ghosts" in the trees, etc. Some don't.

Ocracoke's current Assembly of God minister has expressed concerns about the celebration of Halloween. I do not share his views or his concerns. In November of 2005 I published in this journal a letter of his and my response. You can read both here.

There are always adult parties at various restaurants and private homes. Costumes are often creative and lots of fun.

• "Philip,Your entry today sparked a few questions about daily life on Portsmouth Island in modern times. For example, are there not a few updated homes maintained/used by private, off-island owners? Aren't there some "permanent" (i.e., day-to-day) residents who live on the island? I thought National Park Service personnel who work around the village live there, but perhaps they too commute, like so many of us. And what about maintenance/services on the island? When I visited several years ago, we chatted a bit with maintenance personnel who were tooling about on ATVs. Do those folk work year round? Do you know if there's reliable cell phone coverage in/around the village. (I know, why would anyone WANT such an intrusion there, but my mind was just wandering in terms of a worst-case scenario...could day-trippers make an emergency call in dire circumstances?) And finally--for now--the island extends far southward, beyond the village; any insight into what lies beyond? Is it barren to the southern tip? As always, thanks in advance for your consideration."

The village is on the national register of historic places and all structures in the village are "contributing." There are a very few homes on Portsmouth that are leased by private individuals. None are "updated" except that they may have composting toilets, or maybe an electric generator. The Park Service seems reluctant to grant any more leases, and may not renew those that expire in the next few years.

There are no "permanent" residents of Portsmouth island. However, it is true that volunteers may live there for several months at a time. I don't know if anyone will be living there in the coming winter months. Dave Frum, the ranger there, lives on Ocracoke and commutes by boat every day. There are also construction workers there right now (they are repairing the Life Saving Station), but I believe they travel back and forth from the mainland every day.

There are one or two ATVs that allow workers, volunteers, and rangers to move about the village and carry heavier loads (tree limbs, lumber, water, etc.). They make their work routines much more productive.

Dave works on Portsmouth year around, unless the weather prevents him from getting there.

Alltel phones work on Portsmouth. They also work on Ocracoke, although many other carriers' phones have no reception.

There are remains of two other historic settlements on Portsmouth -- "Middle Community" and "Sheep's Head Island." Plans are underway to clear the "Straight Road" that leads to those areas, although little remains there.

Farther south along the Core Banks (about 16miles distant) are a few rental cabins. But most of the sandy banks are uninhabited, part of the Cape Lookout National Seashore. You can camp on the beach, but must bring all of your food, water, and other equipment (especially insect repellent -- lots of it!). There are no facilities. There is a small private ferry that will carry four wheel drive vehicles to the banks from Atlantic, NC. Vehicles (other than Park Service ATVs) are not allowed in Portsmouth village. The grass landing strip has been closed for several years, so the only access to the island is by boat.

Our latest Newsletter is an article about Blackbeard the pirate and new research that suggests he may have been born in eastern North Carolina. You can read it here.

Black Beard

Several days ago we published our latest Ocracoke Newsletter, comments on the history of Ocracoke's most (in)famous visitor, Captain Edward Teach, aka Black Beard the Pirate. There has been some fascinating new research exploring Black Beard's origins. You can read some of the latest information by clicking here.

I woke up this morning to wind....25 - 30 mph wind....from Hurricane Noel which is tracking to the northeast offshore. Forecasters are calling for high surf with breakers of 8 - 10 feet later today. I think I'll check out the beach sometime this afternoon. It is always exciting to see the ocean worked up. It is a periodic reminder of how vulnerable we are in the face of wild nature.

Across the Inlet

Yesterday I accompanied twenty-one teachers to Portsmouth, the abandoned village on the south side of Ocracoke inlet. It was the perfect day -- just cool enough for a light jacket in the morning; t-shirt weather by mid afternoon. And hardly a mosquito to be felt! Almost unheard of. We walked unmolested to the Salter home, the post office, the school, the Dixon home, the church, and the US Life Saving Station.

One of the teachers played a hymn on the church piano, we walked up into the tower at the station to survey the village and the sound, and we marveled at the high tide lines on the wooden marker outside the post office.

At times it seemed as if we might be standing among the citizens, the children, the life savers, and the fishermen of this small, isolated village that two hundred years ago was bustling with commerce and the daily activities of a thriving seaport town. But today Portsmouth is one of this country's last refuges for peace and quiet. The houses are vacant now; the church bell is silent; the Life Saving Station is empty; and the sandy lanes are quiet. It is the perfect retreat from the busy-ness of the modern world.

Our latest monthly newsletter is Lou Ann's story of commercial clamming with 13 year old Morty. You can read it here.

Breakfast

This morning I joined friends at the old Sound Front Inn, now a rental "cottage." We enjoyed pancakes (with real maple syrup), sausage, coffee, and orange juice on the side porch, just a clam shell's throw away from the old Bragg cemetery. This house had once belonged to the Bragg family. In fact, there is some evidence that the original part of the building may be the second oldest surviving structure on the island. The lighthouse was built in 1823; the Sound Front Inn, maybe 15 or so years later. One wall is canted in a noticeable angle, and the front steps are not lined up correctly with the porch. The house was washed off of its foundation in the 1944 hurricane. It remains a silent witness to the destruction of that memorable storm. Today Pamlico Sound was calm and serene not far away.

The sky is "Carolina Blue" and the air has just a touch of autumn in it. In less than an hour I'll be in a boat heading for Portsmouth Island. I think this is the perfect October day for a visit to this fascinating ghost village.

Our latest monthly newsletter is Lou Ann's story of commercial clamming with 13 year old Morty. You can read it here.

Ghost Orbs

It is 9:10 pm and I just returned from a nighttime visit to Springer's Point. I wasn't alone. I was with 21 teachers spending a week on Ocracoke participating in an NCCAT (NC Center for the Advancement of Teaching) seminar. The seminar is entitled "Ghosts of the Coast" and we have been sharing creepy tales from the island, talking about what makes a good ghost story, and exploring the many family cemeteries in Ocracoke village.

This afternoon we listened to a "paranormal investigator" who explained the tools she uses to hunt for ghosts. These include EMF (Electro-Magnetic Field) meters, infra-red cameras, and digital & analog recording devices.

At 7 o'clock this evening we walked to Springer's Point and spent almost two hours in the eerie darkness there, under the canopy of live oaks and cedars, beside the lonely and forlorn cemetery, listening to the wind blowing through the gnarled and twisted branches above us.

The ghost hunter called for spirits to manifest themselves as we stood in a circle around the old brick cistern. Cameras flashed, highlighting the investigator in front of a shadowy background of dappled branches and sinewy limbs. "Look, there they are, in our photos. See the orbs floating just above her shoulder!"

I looked at the camera display. The "orbs" looked suspiciously like what I would expect from light reflecting off dust particles in the air. Springer's is dark and mysterious. There is no doubt about that. And the Point gives almost everyone an uneasy, unsettled feeling, especially after dark. But I suspect that just the sense of the unknown will have that effect.

Actually, "ghosts" I can deal with. I for one couldn't help wondering if one of those big dark snakes I've seen crawl across the path during the day might be slithering close by. It was time to head back home.

Our latest monthly newsletter is Lou Ann's story of commercial clamming with 13 year old Morty. You can read it here.

Folk School Photos

As promised, I am including in today's journal several photos (in no particular order) of various folk school classes and activities. Enjoy (and consider joining us next year in October -- everyone had a great time!).

Jewelry Making:



Music during Breakfast:



Display by Photography Class:



Studying Island History:



Sailing on board the Schooner Windfall:



Finishing a Basket:



Enjoying a Shrimp Boil:



Exploring Ocracoke's Wild Side:



Dive for the Oyster, Dig for the Clam:



Visiting Graveyards at Night:



Our latest monthly newsletter is Lou Ann's story of commercial clamming with 13 year old Morty. You can read it here.

Rain

On Friday the heavens let loose and inundated Ocracoke with about six inches of rain. We needed the rain, like so many other places on the east coast, but it drowned out the annual school spook walk on Howard Street. It was a disappointment. Not only is the spook walk lots of fun....and many people had put hours and hours of work into the project....but it is also a big money maker for the school PTA. Haven't heard yet if it will happen on another date.

The rain left huge deep puddles all over the village -- on roads, in yards, nearly everywhere one looked. But the island is drying out today. Lachlan enjoyed one big muddy pond this morning, stomping back and forth, eventually splashing above his butter-colored boots and soaking his trousers. That's all it took. In minutes his boots and pants were lying in the mud and he was tromping through the muddy water again, this time in his bare feet.

I've got a CD of folk school photos. If I get a few spare minutes tomorrow or in the next several days I'll upload three or four so you can see some of what made this last week so memorable.

Our latest monthly newsletter is Lou Ann's story of commercial clamming with 13 year old Morty. You can read it here.

Tempus Fugit

I can't believe it's been four days since I last posted. This week has been a non-stop assortment of creative & exciting activities. The inaugural week of the new Ocrafolk School ended yesterday with presentations by all of the student participants. We looked at displays of colorful enameled jewelry, intricately woven baskets, and photographs of Ocracoke Island (none of which showed the lighthouse or Silver Lake Harbor!). We also heard stories of shipwrecks & rescues, saw an old-time island bird trap, and passed around biological specimens and examples of nautical knots. Earlier in the morning we were treated to a sumptuous breakfast prepared by the cooking class.

I believe it's fair to say that everyone had a marvelous week. In addition to classes, we had the pleasure of enjoying music almost every day (jazz, classical, folk, and nautical), joined fellow students on walks along the shore and through the maritime forests, followed paths in the village while listening to history, stories, and ghost tales, and watched the wind catch the red sails aboard the traditional schooner, Windfall.

It was a fun week, but also a tiring week. When off-islanders wonder what we "do all winter" just keep the folk school in mind. It is not always this intense, but we seldom get bored for a lack of activity.

Our latest monthly newsletter is Lou Ann's story of commercial clamming with 13 year old Morty. You can read it here.

October 23

What a lovely day! It rained a bit last night (I only know because everything is wet outside this morning), there is a light breeze, and the skies are partly cloudy (I did see a fair amount of Carolina Blue sky earlier), but already the temperature is nearly 80 degrees. Several students from the folk school have headed to Pamlico Sound to launch their kayaks [unfortunately I am not able to join them : - ( ], and others are busily working on their baskets, jewelry, photography, or gourmet meals. I'm sure we'll hear all about their classes this evening at dinner.

I can't let this day pass without a mention of its historical significance. According to James Ussher (1581-1656), Archbishop of Armagh, Primate of All Ireland, and Vice-Chancellor of Trinity College in Dublin, today, October 23, is the 6011th anniversary of the creation of the world. A momentous date if there ever was one. Let's celebrate!

Our latest monthly newsletter is Lou Ann's story of commercial clamming with 13 year old Morty. You can read it here.

Folk School

Last night more than two dozen folks met at the Pony Island restaurant for the first gathering of students and instructors of the new Ocrafolk School. We enjoyed a delicious meal while chatting and getting to know each other.

This morning after breakfast at Deepwater Theater (David Tweedie & John Golden entertained us with fiddle and banjo music) I led the group on a tour down Lighthouse Road. I shared stories and local history. As an added treat, the Park Service opened the lighthouse so we could step inside and view the 184 year old beacon from a different perspective. We ended at the Community Store dock where Capt. Rob invited everyone on board his schooner for and hour and a half cruise in Pamlico Sound.

Classes in jewelry, basketry, photography, and island cooking, as well as an "Ocracoke Sampler" began this afternoon in various locations around the village. We will meet again this evening for John Ivey's famous fish cakes at Jason's restaurant. I'm sure the tables will be abuzz about all the skills learned already. We will all be looking forward to three more days of work, fun, and learning even more.


Our latest monthly newsletter is Lou Ann's story of commercial clamming with 13 year old Morty. You can read it here.

Catching Up

Sorry for the two-day hiatus from the journal. This weekend Ocracoke welcomed the Howard family reunion. My brother was here, along with close and distant cousins. In addition to registration, a picnic, and dinner we enjoyed sharing stories, listening to good music, dancing the traditional island square dance, and even watching an accomplished belly dancer (one of our mainland Howard kin).

At the same time, NCCAT (the NC Center for the Advancement of Teaching) hosted an open house, shrimp dinner, and community cookout this weekend. Their new facility, the renovated Coast Guard Station, is simply wonderful. Conference and seminar rooms, dormitory rooms (each with private bath), reception area, open deck, and dining room are all beautiful and of the highest quality. The view from the lookout tower was a highlight of everyone's visit. We welcome NCCAT to our community.

In just a few minutes I will be meeting our first students for the new Ocrafolk School. Right now I'd better get a shower and then bike out to the Pony Island Restaurant.

After dinner I'll be leading a Ghost & History Walk for several British journalists.

More on the Ocrafolk School later this week.

Our latest monthly newsletter is Lou Ann's story of commercial clamming with 13 year old Morty. You can read it here.

Update

As humorist Dave Barry would say, an "alert reader" reminded me yesterday that the Ocracoke School Halloween Carnival and Spook Walk will take place on Friday, October 26, followed by Quizo (Bingo). I also forgot to mention the chicken dinner served last evening as a fund raiser for the Ocracoke Child Care. I wasn't able to partake, but I'm sure it was delicious.

There really are quite a few community events happening in the next few weeks.

If you are planning a visit to the island (for the Howard Reunion, the Folk School, the A.A. Jamboree, the Murder Mystery Weekend, or just to get away for a while) be sure to plan for a dip in the Atlantic. The ocean temperature has been just perfect for swimming. Everyone on the island is basking in the warm weather, sleeping with windows wide open, and enjoying the outdoors as much as possible.

Our latest monthly newsletter is Lou Ann's story of commercial clamming with 13 year old Morty. You can read it here.

Upcoming Events

The village is not as quiet in October as it once was, but there are definitely fewer visitors out and about this week. Everything seems more relaxed and laid back. However the next few weeks will see more activity here on the island.

A large Howard family reunion will meet this weekend at the community center. Latest reports indicate that more than 150 people from all over the country will be gathering to share stories, photos, and history. A picnic, dinner, music, and dance will round out the weekend.

Close on the heels of the reunion will be a community cookout to celebrate the opening of the NCCAT (N.C. Center for the Advancement of Teaching) campus (the old Coast Guard station) on Sunday, October 21. The next day will be the inaugural session of the Ocrafolk School. On October 22 classes will begin in jewelry making, photography, island cooking, basketry, and island culture, history, & ecology. Evenings will include music, square dancing, sailing, and other island activities.

Following the folk school NCCAT will be hosting a seminar on "Ghosts of the Coast" the week of October 28. That session will barely be concluded when the island hosts the annual A.A. Jamboree. The next weekend Lou Ann will be back on the island to lead a "Murder Mystery Weekend" at the Cove Bed & Breakfast.

When that ends it will be the middle of November! Whew.

We'll keep you informed as the events unfold.

Our latest monthly newsletter is Lou Ann's story of commercial clamming with 13 year old Morty. You can read it here.

Spring?

This morning the birds were chirping and singing, sunbeams were streaming down through the cedars....and goldenrod was in full bloom all over the island.

This week is proving to be as grand and beautiful as one could imagine. The temperature right now is 72 degrees. Amy & Lachlan & I played "baseball" in the yard a while ago. They are planning to be outside as much as possible today.

The only downside to this weather is the goldenrod, but I'll simply cough and sneeze every morning, and then get on with enjoying the rest of the day.

Our latest monthly newsletter is Lou Ann's story of commercial clamming with 13 year old Morty. You can read it here.

The Pioneer

Yesterday proved to be a super October day, and today looks to be just as nice; even a tad warmer, probably with temperatures in the mid-70s. It is clear and sunny, unlike October 14, one hundred and eighteen years ago yesterday. It was on that date that the steamer "Pioneer" wrecked on Ocracoke's beach within sight of the village. Unlike most vessels which carried one type of cargo (lumber, molasses, rum, or sugar, e.g.), the Pioneer was carrying general cargo. When it broke up and sent all manner of desirable goods floating through the town residents were ecstatic.

You can read a brief account of the wreck, and the aftermath, here:

http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/news080101.htm

Our latest monthly newsletter is Lou Ann's story of commercial clamming with 13 year old Morty. You can read it here.

Phil Platt

Many of our readers knew Phil Platt, owner and pilot for Ocracoke Island's Pelican Airways. I spoke with Phil early in the week while checking my mail at the Post Office. Late that afternoon Phil died suddenly. He was one in a long list of island characters. Strong willed, quirky, and quick to tell you what he thought, Phil was interesting, entertaining, and likable.

My first encounter with Phil was seeing him driving around the village in a car with most of the windshield broken out. There was a large hole in the passenger's side; the driver's side of the windshield was nothing more than cracks and "spider webby" lines obscuring any possibility of a view of the road. Phil, with hands on the wheel, was leaning far to his right, peering out of the broken glass. He was wearing his vintage leather flight goggles.

The memorial service was held today at the airstrip. A catholic priest was there, along with Joyce, our Methodist minister, and Dwight Burrus, lay preacher and pilot from Hatteras. The altar was Phil's rough work bench, stained with grease & oil. On the corner was Phil's vise, bolted firmly to the top. It was a fitting testimonial to a memorable island character. We will miss him.

Our latest monthly newsletter is Lou Ann's story of commercial clamming with 13 year old Morty. You can read it here.

Cooler Weather

After weeks of unseasonably warm autumn weather, it turned a bit cooler yesterday. A neighbor I spoke with in the bank told me with a smile on his face how he'd slept under two blankets. Folks were walking and biking about in sweatshirts, light jackets, and hats.

This morning the "cold snap" (my apologies to all of our northern readers) is quickly morphing into the perfect, sunny day. Already the temperature is in the upper 60s, and is expected to be in the lower 70s by mid-morning. Nighttime temps in the mid 50s will be a fitting complement to what is shaping up to be a lovely October day.

Our latest monthly newsletter is Lou Ann's story of commercial clamming with 13 year old Morty. You can read it here.

Blue Heron Realty

Island native, Jennifer Esham, has established a new realty on Ocracoke Island. She specializes in vacation rentals and asked me to let you know about her recent venture. Her web site is http://www.blueheronvacations.com/

This is how she describes Blue Heron Realty (I think she expresses many of our concerns about preserving the island's unique traditions, culture, and values):

"Blue Heron Realty invites you to vacation in one or our Ocracoke Island rentals. We take great pride in our island home, this one-of-a-kind place on the North Carolina Outer Banks, known for the incomparable beauty of its land- and seascapes-- and for the wonderful people who call it home.

My goal for Blue Heron Realty is to offer an Ocracoke vacation rental service that matches the island itself – a company founded on the island’s traditions of hard work, friendliness, in going the extra mile and keeping things simple.

You won't find national hotel and motel chains and the "usual suspect" fast food restaurants on Ocracoke Island. Yes, Ocracoke will grow and change, shifting like the tides. Still, we all want it to hold on to the values and customs that make it unique. I hope you will enjoy your vacation rental on our Ocracoke. Leave your footprints in the sand and take away with you enough happy memories to last a lifetime (and plenty of seashells too!).

Have a wonderful stay!

Jennifer Esham"

Our latest monthly newsletter is Lou Ann's story of commercial clamming with 13 year old Morty. You can read it here.

Playing Catch Up

I meant to write a journal entry yesterday. Really I did. But I have been playing catch up since I returned home. You know what I mean -- bills, emails, family, friends, mowing the lawn, laundry....and, of course, work.

And the Village Craftsmen has been busy for this time of year. Of course, Kelly, our summer employee, is now gone, and Dallie has been off island this week. So Jude and I are keeping things going.

But we have been blessed with warm, pleasant weather. I did join Amy for a walk on the beach right after I got home (including a dip in the ocean -- the water is warm and very inviting!), but that wasn't to be yesterday. Although shop owners are happy for the continued revenue, I believe many folks are becoming wistful for cooler weather and a slower pace.

For those of our readers who speak German, here is a link to a recent article in "Welt Online" about Ocracoke Island: http://www.welt.de/welt_print/article1185798/Der_schnste_Strand_der_USA.html

Our latest monthly newsletter is Lou Ann's story of commercial clamming with 13 year old Morty. You can read it here.

Some Answers....

....or at least points to ponder.

Our recent posts about Ocracoke and change inspired a number of comments and questions. I always like to reply to our readers' questions, so here goes (I'll take the inquiries in the order we received them):

The East Coast (nay, the whole world)NEEDS your unspoiled serenity, not another overpriced, honky-tonk wasteland!


OK, this is a comment, not a question, but it is typical of so many comments of our readers who replied to Jude's initial post. (I chose this comment as representative of many others.) I can only say that I agree with this sentiment wholeheartedly, and with the others who long for the Ocracoke they love and cherish not to "change" in the sense of becoming like every other coastal tourist trap.


You folks need to hold on tight to what you have as long as you can, because when it's gone there's no going back. I don't want Ocracoke to lose the charm that it has.
That's what keep bringing people back year after year. If Ocracoke winds up like a Myrtle Beach, then what have you got?.


I believe I speak for most, perhaps almost all, of our island residents when I agree that Ocracoke needs to hold on to our sense of community, our culture, our traditions, our lifestyle, our sense of humor....(you fill in the rest of the blanks).

What is your background in writing, language, etc? Your abilities as a writer are uncommonly good and suggest specialization in the field, or perhaps a career in teaching. Am I close?

Thank you for the kind words. Well, you are only close. I did teach a couple of years off the island; and I taught here at Ocracoke way back in the mid-70s. But I have no background in education. Wasn't really a very good teacher, either. At least I don't think I was that great. However, I love to read....and think. My educational background is in Philosophy and Religion. It's a wonder anything I write makes any sense.

One would only hope that Ocracokers have their zoning laws in order, and that esthetics and "quality of living" trumps "making money" under at least [some?] circumstances. Also, that the cost of living is somehow kept down so that the kids of native Ocracokers can afford land and a house AND non-natives of modest means can continue to visit and stay in Ocracoke. I would hate to think that in 20 years only rich people could live or vacation on OK Island.

Whoa! This is a complicated question/comment. Actually I have few answers. Ocracoke has no zoning laws (in the sense of commercial, residential, and industrial "zones"). We do have a building ordinance, but not a particularly strong one, and enforcement is problematic. For one thing, our county seat is so far removed, and we have so little influence in county decisions. It is very complicated. Also, many other factors complicate this issue. To name just one, strict building codes, for all their good intentions and benefits (and there are many), tend to drive home prices up. When large lot sizes are mandated, and various restrictions are placed on construction, properties (especially in coastal communities) become more desirable, and thus more expensive. I wish I knew a solution to this dilemma.

How much more do you think the island can change? For example, how many more buildable lots are available? Is there the potential for lots more to be constructed or is most of the large places already full? Around the harbor, how many more lots do you anticipate will change or built upon? Can the towns infrastructure handle another building boom?

I don't know the answer to this question. But I do know that almost anything is possible, and all too often small communities like ours are re-active, rather than pro-active. How do you identify the next potential problem? How do you know you're right? How do you convince your fellow citizens to prepare for something that may never materialize?

How many buildable lots are available? I own four contiguous lots that total about an acre. Could I bulldoze everything down, connect the lots, and build a motel? I suppose, but, of course, I wouldn't. But how could we prevent someone else from doing the same thing? I don't know.

I wonder though if Portsmouth wouldn't have discovered a new breed of folks if the government hadn't stepped in.


Perhaps. An "artists' community?" Maybe an experimental Utopian society? It might have been wonderful, creative, and exciting. But it wouldn't have been the traditional island community.

I hope that there are ways for the next generation to be able to afford to stay on the island if they want.

We all hope for this. But it is a struggle. By now, most local families have pretty much divided up their traditional holdings for children and grandchildren. We'll have to see what will happen to the next generation. If only we could halt change. But then, what would we be hoping for. As I said before, change is inevitable. The only rational goal is to direct the change and work for change that is life-affirming and community-building. And then we need the good graces to accept the changes and to continue to strive for all that is good and healthy and nurturing (even if that means working for other changes).

I hope this discussion has prompted us all to do whatever we can to preserve all the best of this wonderful island of Ocracoke.


Our latest monthly newsletter is Lou Ann's story of commercial clamming with 13 year old Morty. You can read it here.

Hello Folks!

It's so nice to be missed. Thanks for the concerns about us. If you read Dale's comment on the last post you already know that I have been off the island for more than two weeks, and that Jude has gone to visit her mother. But I have returned....just last night.

I spent a week in Indiana with Lou Ann. We had a wonderful time -- rode on a train with a 100+ year old steam locomotive, witnessed a Civil War re-enactment (even had the opportunity to don period costumes and join in the dances later that evening), visited friends, walked in the woods, and generally enjoyed ourselves.

From there I traveled to East Tennessee for my annual hike to the top of Mt. LeConte (over 6500 feet elevation). It is an eight mile trek to the top, and quite a treat to be out in the woods and into the rarefied air. Two friends even startled a large black bear early in the morning, just beyond our quarters.

From LeConte I hopped over to Weaverville, NC to visit with my son and his family. I see those three grandchildren only a few times each year, so it is always a treat. Then it was back to Tennessee for the National Storytelling Festival. Lou Ann joined me again, and we listened to some of the best tellers in the nation (including, of course, our own Donald Davis).

Back home I discovered tall disorderly and unkempt grasses assaulting my front yard, stacks of unwelcomed bills, and more than a hundred emails awaiting me.

Thank you all for your comments about Ocracoke and change. I'd like to share more thoughts on several of the posts, but that will have to wait for another day. Until then, enjoy the rest of the day.

Our latest monthly newsletter is Lou Ann's story of commercial clamming with 13 year old Morty. You can read it here.

Comments from Philip

Heraclitus declared that we can’t step into the same river twice. Others have noted that the only constant in life is change.

Time and time again I have heard visitors to Ocracoke express the same sentiment we read in the comments to a recent post: “Don’t let Ocracoke change!” I have often remarked that most people who voice this thought are actually advocating for an Ocracoke like the one they first encountered (30 years ago? 20 years ago? 5 years ago?). Everyone, it seems, wants to close the gate behind them. And yet no one I’ve spoken with wants to return to an Ocracoke before their own time.

Although I fully agree that we must work to preserve the best qualities of our unique, beautiful, and often threatened island and community (more on that below), it is naïve to believe that Ocracoke can ever persist in some artificial time warp. Furthermore, whose “first encounter” will we use as the benchmark?

When confronted by good-intentioned folks who yearn for the idyllic Ocracoke that never changes, I sometimes point out to them what it might be like if things had not changed in the last fifty – sixty years.

When I was a young boy,

· Ocracoke had no ferries. What few visitors came to the island arrived by mailboat. Later on, we had a three-car private ferry (with no railings, no ramp, and no dock). Although this was a wonderful period of island history, be honest with yourself: most of our readers would never have even heard of Ocracoke; and most of the rest would never have considered traveling to this remote outpost.
· We had only one paved road (a short section of one-lane concrete used by the Navy). What few vehicles were on the island were frequently stuck in the soft sand; and virtually no one had any reason to venture as far as Hatteras Inlet.
· A day at the beach (an infrequent outing) meant a long, hot walk across the sand flats -- unless someone had access to a surplus Army jeep.
· Water (rainwater caught in wooden cisterns) was rationed carefully, especially in hot, dry summer months. Baths were infrequent, and drinking water was strained through cheesecloth to filter out (most of) the wigglers (mosquito larvae).
· Fires were extinguished (or not) by neighbors manning a bucket brigade.
· Medical emergencies were handled by family, friends, and maybe a resident nurse. There were no ambulances, helicopters, or clinics.
· Electricity was basic, minimal, and often unreliable.
· Telephone service was spotty and irregular.
· Indoor bathrooms were almost unheard of.
· Air conditioning was non-existent.
· Most homes were heated by kerosene space heaters.
· Cable TV, the internet, and mobile phones were un-dreamed of.

It is not that I sing the praises of all modern “conveniences.” I do not have a television, and I was even one of the few islanders who voted against the installation of a municipal water system in the 1970s. I knew it would spur growth; and it has. I loved the Ocracoke of my youth – a magical place unlike any other.

However my home and business have air conditioning and central heat. I am connected to the internet, and use a mobile phone. I even enjoy the convenience of the water that flows through my tap from our sophisticated reverse-osmosis water system.

At the same time, I am committed to preserving the best of what Ocracoke has to offer. Instead of longing for an island that will never change, I hope for an island that can somehow manage to balance a rich, colorful, and vibrant history with the demands of a modern society.

There are many things that are beyond our direct control. Federal, state, and county regulations determine property values, taxes, highway decisions, school particulars, Park Service decisions, and many other issues. Property is bought and sold; and again, federal, state, and county laws intervene, often to protect property owners’ individual rights.

As I’ve said so many times, Ocracoke is no artificial attraction, like Disney World. This is a year around community of about 750 people, and we all have a voice in Ocracoke’s present and future. And we don’t always agree. Compromise is necessary.

Every person who moves to Ocracoke brings a slightly different voice. Every baby born here is a unique individual. Every adult from the island sees the world through a slightly different lens.

Those of us who want to preserve what we see as the best of island life can do so in a number of ways. Elected office is one way. Voting is another. But there are others. Some in our community serve tirelessly as volunteers in the school, the churches, the fire department, the civic & business association, on various boards and committees, and in many other ways.

Many islanders have spent countless hours preserving stories, history, and genealogies; as well as trees, plants, open spaces, buildings, and traditional culture.

One of the reasons I personally collect island stories, and share them whenever the opportunity arises, or call a traditional Ocracoke square dance, or host a wintertime pot luck dinner, or restore a typical island home, or even brew an occasional batch of meal wine, is not only to hold on to a bit of the sense of shared history and culture that binds us together as a community, but also to encourage others to do the same.

To call for our island to never change is to call for our island to die. We have no better example of that than Portsmouth, the ghost town across Ocracoke Inlet. So instead I challenge us all to accept with good graces the inevitable changes, the new neighbors who move onto our island, the new technologies that can enhance our lives, and the innovations & creative activities that bring excitement and joy into our lives.

At the same time, I challenge us all to do a few simple things to help preserve our precious island home. Turn off your TV and walk to a neighbor’s home for a visit. Invite friends over to play cards, quilt, play music, or just to talk. Plant a garden. Take your family or friends out fishing. Let it be known that your neighbors can borrow your tools, or ask for your help with a project. Walk more, or bike. Stop along the way just to chat.

Of course, more needs to be done. There are real challenges and threats to a simpler, more relaxed way of life. We need to support our elected officials who work to preserve our unique and wonderful island community with far-sighted legislation that celebrates our heritage and prevents the destruction and degradation of our community.

We also need a practical and realistic view of our island that can balance all that is good and rich and beautiful from the past with whatever good we can extract from the outside. Change is inevitable. Without being passive, I hope we can glean from the changes what we choose, and combine it with the best of the past and present to create a living community that residents and visitors can all embrace.

PS: To all those good folks who have called for Ocracoke never to change (both in this journal, and in person), I do understand your sentiments. I no more want Ocracoke to end up like so many other coastal resort communities than you do. We must work to prevent those changes that threaten our very special community and way of life. I thank you for your heartfelt concern.

Our latest monthly newsletter is Lou Ann's story of commercial clamming with 13 year old Morty. You can read it here.

Overnight Rain

It started raining just before 7 last evening. It was a soft, tropical feeling rain. It's been such a dry,dry summer, the kind that makes you avert your eyes from the plants you had such high hopes for when you put them in the ground in the spring. We didn't get a whole lot of rain but any is surely welcomed. It was so hot and dry this summer it was hard to come by a cloud most days. When our youngest son Travis still lived here on the island, and we had a summer like this, he'd look up at the sky and say " Oh Momma, don't you sometimes just get tired of that old sun and wish a cloud would come by?" Amen to that Travis! And...most days Frank and I wish Travis would come by.

Our latest monthly newsletter is Lou Ann's story of commercial clamming with 13 year old Morty. You can read it here.

Thanks

I'd like to thank all of you who took the time to comment on yesterdays blog. I hope those who are so intent on making Ocracoke like "out there" hear your voices. Gated Communities, condos and all those other EX-clusive so called amenities are not what Ocracoke is, was or hopefully ever will be about. Well, Frank and I did go fishing last night after work. Without much rain this summer the beach is all worked up and not easy to drive on so we went over Airport and toward South Point just a quarter mile or so. I can't begin to explain how beautiful it was...just before sunset, full moon rising, the old girl ( the ocean and I are on familiar terms ) flat as my stomach when I was twenty, high tide... just as soft an evening as you could imagine. Stan and Marcie, friends of our from Richmond, met us with subs from Jasons and some lovely beverages. Willie, our Corgi, was in his glory. Willie would rather be on the beach than anywhere. Beach and treat are his two favorite words...I digress. Frank decided to use a special lure of his instead of bait so...on his first cast his line broke and well you get the picture... we won't go into it..... The sun went down as we were drinking our lovely beverages and then somebody turned on the mosquito switch! We made it to our trucks alive with all equipment dog and wife accounted for ,barely. We waved goodbye to Stan and Marcie through closed windows and headed home to soothe our wounds with a Benadryl stick and watch the first new "House" of the season. He really does remind me of Frank.

Our latest monthly newsletter is Lou Ann's story of commercial clamming with 13 year old Morty. You can read it here.

Mixed Emotions

Philip is so easy. He writes about pot lucks and walks on the beach and all the things that y'all think Ocracoke is 100% made of and don't get me wrong, it is,.... but more like 75%. The other 25% is folks who care, fighting to keep Ocracoke the sweet place that it is. It's not an easy fight or a pretty one. Being named #1 Beach in the USA hasn't helped that fight. And, in case you haven't heard, I believe Conde Nast named us #4 in the WORLD ! It's been a double edged sword, or as I like to put it, a sharp stick in the eye. Not many of us live here to get rich, we live here for the way of life (there will be folks who disagree I'm sure ). Being named #1 Beach brought folks here who hadn't a clue what Ocracoke was all about and ended up being dissatisfied with what the island DIDN'T have to offer. I'll leave those things to your imagination. "Oh, we love your island, let us change it for you!" It was a good summer financially for all of us . I'm just so afraid we've lost something that we're not going to be able to replace. I'm not one who likes to be wrong but I sure hope I am this time.
Ok,... Ok, I'll be cheerful tomorrow... I promise. Maybe we'll go fishing tonight. Jude

Our latest monthly newsletter is Lou Ann's story of commercial clamming with 13 year old Morty. You can read it here.

A Clarification

Hi, Jude here again after a long absence. Philip is off galavanting ( well deserved ) after a very busy summer. The spider in our yard that Philip showed you a photo of the other day is actually a "Golden Silk Spider" which is indeed an Orb spider. Legs included he is as big as a mans hand! Although not considered aggressive, she was not too happy with Frank when he accidentally ran into her web with his head. I hadn't seen Frank move that fast in years. It has been an interesting summer for sure. I'll tell you about it over the next week or so.

Our latest monthly newsletter is Lou Ann's story of commercial clamming with 13 year old Morty. You can read it here.

Morty

We have published another monthly Ocracoke Newsletter. This month Lou Ann shares her adventure accompanying 13 year old islander, Morty Gaskill, Ocracoke's youngest commercial fisherman, on his morning trip out to his clam beds. You can read Lou Ann's story here. (It's short -- only 750 words -- but a true gem.)

Orb Spider

I rode my bike by Jude & Frank's house this morning. My camera doesn't work well for close ups so this is the best photo I could get of their spider.



This is an orb spider (on the island we call it a garden spider), and you can see a better picture on the Wikipedia web site by clicking here.

Today is also "Speak Like a Pirate Day," so I'll close by saying Aaaaargh!

This month's newsletter is a story of Captain Joe Burrus, last Ocracoke lighthouse keeper before the beacon was electrified and automated. You can read it here.

Spider

I've been told that there is a large, exotic, and beautiful spider at Frank & Jude's, and I was hoping to stop by today and take a photo, but, alas, I never made it over there. And now I'm ready to go home and relax. Maybe tomorrow.

This month's newsletter is a story of Captain Joe Burrus, last Ocracoke lighthouse keeper before the beacon was electrified and automated. You can read it here.

Nature Deficit Disorder

Our faithful summer employee, Kelly, is reading a book I will be sure to read also, Last Child in the Woods, by Richard Louv. It's subtitle is "Saving Our Children from Nature-Deficit Disorder." Of course, this is no recognized clinical diagnosis; and I freely admit to not having yet read the book (this is not an endorsement, or review of Louv's work). But a quotation by a fourth grader on an early page caught my attention: "I like to play indoors better 'cause that's where all the electrical outlets are."

I thought about that quote yesterday afternoon as I romped on the beach barefooted with David and Lachlan. Lachlan had found an aluminum can (let's hope it was not cavalierly tossed out of a vehicle window), and a three foot long piece of string. I tied the can to the string and Lachlan ran from dunes to surf whooping and hollering with the can trailing behind. Gulls swooped down overhead, and willets & sandpipers poked in the incoming tide. David and I chased him back and forth until he tired of the game. He buried his feet in the sand, then climbed to the tops of the dunes and ran back down. Once he tumbled face first, picked himself up, and spit out the sand before continuing to explore and pick up pieces of shells & driftwood.

I don't think Lachlan has Nature-Deficit Disorder.

This month's newsletter is a story of Captain Joe Burrus, last Ocracoke lighthouse keeper before the beacon was electrified and automated. You can read it here.

Weddings & Babies

Well, Sara & Brian were married yesterday (and so were Kevin & Laura, but I couldn't go to both weddings). A dark cloud scudded by overhead during Sara & Brian's ceremony, but no rain fell. Afterwards we all ambled up to the dunes to enjoy hamburgers, barbecue, and lots of other fine food and drink, as well as good conversation, and, of course, wedding cake.

This afternoon I joined a bunch of folks at Deepwater theater to honor Marcie & Lou's newest arrival, little Charlotte. It was primarily a ladies' event, so several of the other guys and I stayed around for the good food, then repaired to the Pub for some beer and "guy talk." We laughed and carried on, but before long it was time to head home. Today the weather is just perfect -- sunny and breezy; not too cool, and not too hot (or humid). So I'll close for now and go outside to enjoy the rest of the day. Talk with you tomorrow.

This month's newsletter is a story of Captain Joe Burrus, last Ocracoke lighthouse keeper before the beacon was electrified and automated. You can read it here.

Cocktail Party

Cocktail Party? On Ocraacoke? Sure enough. This afternoon at two Sara Harris (nee Spencer) and Brian Warren will be married on the beach. I will be participating (Sara was one of my students at Ocracoke School way back in the mid-70s), so I joined the party last night. Well it wasn't exactly like a stiff, formal cocktail party. With few exceptions almost everyone knew everyone else -- you know, kinfolk, neighbors, & friends. There was a table filled with good things to eat, and some of the ladies had on party dresses (I even wore a collared shirt), but some folks were in t-shirts and shorts, or barefooted. Like most island gatherings, the people and the stories and the laughter were much more important than status, position, or clothes.

It is overcast with a 50% chance of showers this afternoon, but Sara says she'll go ahead with the wedding in the rain if she has to. This could be interesting.

This month's newsletter is a story of Captain Joe Burrus, last Ocracoke lighthouse keeper before the beacon was electrified and automated. You can read it here.

Uncle Homer

"He was a card, he was," came the commentary. "The other boys and girls were scared of him, but I wasn't. I knew he had a good heart. But there weren't nothing he wouldn't do, just for devilment. He let the other children bury him up to his neck in the schoolyard once. When he got hold of a car, he'd drive it right up to your porch, through the garden and all. I remember that time he come to the door in women's clothes. He had a hat, a purse, and that fur wrapped around his neck. You couldn't help but like him, though. He was a character, always giving away things to the younguns."

I stopped by to visit Blanche Styron last night. We talked for over an hour about old-time island characters. I especially like to hear stories of Uncle Homer. Blanche said that my grandmama always doted on Homer; that's why he was like he was. Others have told me that he "wasn't quite right" from the time he was little. He was just full of foolishness, and always unpredictable....and unusual. I reminded Blanche of hearing that he worked in a circus years ago. He "beat the drum for the dancing camel," I was told.

There aren't as many characters here any more. More people, more regulations, more social pressure to conform. What a pity.

This month's newsletter is a story of Captain Joe Burrus, last Ocracoke lighthouse keeper before the beacon was electrified and automated. You can read it here.

A Good Soaker

Finally, it rained. During the night I heard thunder rolling through the air. Then a patter of raindrops outside my window. Eventually a steady cascade upon the roof. If it was a deluge I didn't know. I fell back asleep. But this morning there were large puddles in the lane. Outside in my shower, every tree above me was glistening with pearly drops suspended from the tips of branches and twigs. The land will be rejoicing.

Speaking of weather, a reader asked recently if Ocracoke's unique geographical configuration might militate against devastating effects from storms and hurricanes. Frankly, I don't know, although some older residents are adamant that the dredging of Cockle Creek (Silver Lake) and the filling in of the guts (two tidal streams that extended from Cockle Creek towards the beach) have left the village more vulnerable to storm tides, According to these old timers, the tide waters are no longer channeled to once barren tidal flats, but now inundate the village.

I am not knowledgeable enough to know if this is true, but it certainly seems that the more we interfere with nature the more she lets us know that she had it right all along.

This month's newsletter is a story of Captain Joe Burrus, last Ocracoke lighthouse keeper before the beacon was electrified and automated. You can read it here.

Peeling Potatoes

She was sitting on the sofa when I walked in just before supper. A newspaper in her lap was piled with peelings. She was deftly guiding the paring knife over a large potato. A bowl nearby was filled with spuds. Only a few still had their skins.

I had stopped by earlier in the day, but she hadn't slept much that night and had stayed in bed until late in the morning. When she opened the door I realized that was the first time I had ever seen her head uncovered. Her hair was snow white and thin. All of her life, it seems, she had kept her head covered with a blue bandanna. Even when we were next door neighbors I had never seen her without her bandanna neatly folded on the top of her head.

I told her I would return in the afternoon.

When I did stop back she was bright and cheery. We talked about photos on the walls, old times, her sisters, my family, and, island news. She remembered that Lachlan and I share a birthday. "It's August, isn't it?" she said, more a statement than a question. "August the second," she continued.

Of course, she was correct. Muze never seems to forget birthdays, even if she is 103 years old.

This month's newsletter is a story of Captain Joe Burrus, last Ocracoke lighthouse keeper before the beacon was electrified and automated. You can read it here.

One in a Thousand

Several days ago Amy called me from work to report that the National Park Service was planning to release a clutch of newly hatched turtles that evening at 7:10. I passed the information along to David, hoping he could bring Lachlan, but it didn't work out for them.

When I arrived a small crowd of locals had gathered on a fairly remote section of the beach (far from village lights and automobile headlights). A park ranger had a bucket with 47 baby loggerheads. We were given a brief wildlife lesson:
-- a typical female turtle lays about 120 eggs [this nest had 160 eggs];
-- the babies swim all the way to the Sargasso Sea in the Gulf Stream and "hang out" there for a while, then travel all the way across to the other side of the Atlantic;
-- after 20 - 25 years they swim back here and the females return to the beach where they hatched to lay their eggs.

Then the youngsters were released. This was being done in several sessions, as they hatched. The little guys were set on the sand in groups of four to six. Immediately they struck out for the surf. Lucky ones reached the water with just the right timing and slid under the water effortlessly. Others were tossed and turned and thrown back up on the beach by one wave after another. Some landed on their backs and struggled to right themselves. Finally they too would crawl back and disappear under the churning white water and be gone.

Biologists estimate that only one in a thousand hatchlings survives. At least we kept these few safe from ghost crabs and seagulls. Maybe one or two will make it all the way to the Sargasso Sea, and perhaps my great-grandchildren will one day witness one of these turtles' youngsters hastening back to the great open sea.

This month's newsletter is a story of Captain Joe Burrus, last Ocracoke lighthouse keeper before the beacon was electrified and automated. You can read it here.

Final Report

Well, Gabrielle disappointed no one but the news media (as one comment yesterday noted). As expected, there was wind, but not much more than on a typical blustery day. Unfortunately, we got almost no rain. For a few moments we received a light mist, but that was all. Actually, there were large patches of blue sky most of the day, even as lower level clouds raced by overhead. I spent the day sharing meals with Amy, David, & Lachlan, visiting with neighbors on the front porch, reading, and napping. All in all, it was a thoroughly pleasant day.

Today it is sunny and warmer. I've heard that we might eventually get some rain, maybe later in the week, and no one will be disappointed about that.

This month's newsletter is a story of Captain Joe Burrus, last Ocracoke lighthouse keeper before the beacon was electrified and automated. You can read it here.

Update

The wind has picked up some (to about 15 mph), and a very light rain has just begun to fall. As an official report says, "such conditions certainly are not newsworthy, particularly for Ocracoke, if not for it being a tropical event." Gabrielle appears to be tracking almost directly over Ocracoke, however.

Forecasters indicate that winds may reach 45 - 55 mph before the storm passes by. There is no cause for alarm. I think I will shut down my computers, pick up my latest book, and enjoy the breeze. See you tomorrow.

Storm

A tropical storm warning is in effect for eastern North Carolina. Maximum sustained winds should not be more than about 50 mph, although the center of Gabrielle is expected to be near Ocracoke Inlet around noon. Right now it is sunny with just a light breeze.

With the memory of hurricane Alex (and accompanying high tides) still relatively fresh in our minds, a few locals have already begun parking vehicles on higher ground, but there are no evacuations or other major preparations. High tide will occur about 7 pm. Forecasters are predicting a rapid transit of Gabrielle past the Outer Banks, so the storm should be well off shore by noon on Monday.

This month's newsletter is a story of Captain Joe Burrus, last Ocracoke lighthouse keeper before the beacon was electrified and automated. You can read it here.

Gabrielle

At this point no one on Ocracoke seems particularly worried about sub-tropical storm Gabrielle. But islanders are keeping an eye on developments. The following information was sent by the Hyde County Emergency Management Coordinator:

Official Release of Information
Date: 09/08/07 @ 12:30AM
Event: Sub Tropical Storm – Gabrielle
Release: For Immediate Release - #2
Contact: Tony Spencer – 252-542-0805

Tropical Storm Watch Now In Effect for Hyde County

The National Hurricane Center has upgraded the former low pressure off our coast to Sub Tropical Storm Gabrielle. The first official forecast for the storm is to approach Cape Lookout Sunday early in afternoon and be directly over the southern Pamlico Sound around 8PM.

Current maximum winds are forecasted locally around 60MPH, sufficient to shut down public safety services. However, some uncertainty continues with a wide suggestion on intensities by the models, as well as time of curvature affecting point of landfall. Either way, the approach is aligned with both normal and astrological High Tide which could cause minor flooding. Rip currents and rough surf should be expected.

The Ocracoke Control Group will meet Saturday morning to review updated information. If necessary, the Hyde County Control Group may meet later in the day.

Residents and visitors to Hyde County should monitor the situation closely and make preparations for possible impact and disruption of public services in the storm approaches.

Tony Spencer, Emergency Management Coordinator
- - - -
Storm Preparation Initial Checklist:
(__) Check First Aid Kits / Fire Extinguishers
(__) Obtain medicines & prescriptions
(__) Check and fuel vehicles and generators
(__) Obtain Cash
(__) Make pet Arrangements
(__) Pick up loose items around the yard
(__) Protect vulnerable portions of property
(__) Obtain non-perishable food and water for 3+ days (5+ is recommended on Ocracoke)
(__) Obtain baby need or personal need items
(__) Check battery powered electronics and generators
(__) Assemble valuables and documents that cannot be replaced easily

This month's newsletter is a story of Captain Joe Burrus, last Ocracoke lighthouse keeper before the beacon was electrified and automated. You can read it here.

Sphyrna

I was walking along the beach yesterday afternoon when I spied something ahead, washed up on the beach. It was about as big as a dolphin, but looked different. As I neared I became more convinced that it was not a dolphin. Could it be a deer, I wondered? Something resembled a leg, bent at the knee, but I couldn't be sure. I walked closer.

No, it was not a deer, that was for certain, but I didn't know what it was until I was almost on top of it. It was a hammerhead shark. I knew they and other sharks swim in our waters. I know people have seen them in the sound.

It was still mid afternoon, not shark feeding time (late afternoon, early evening) and beautiful, so I jumped into the waves for a brief swim. The water was warm but refreshing.

You can read more about the hammerhead shark (genus Sphyrna) here: http://animals.nationalgeographic.com/animals/fish/hammerhead-shark.html

This month's newsletter is a story of Captain Joe Burrus, last Ocracoke lighthouse keeper before the beacon was electrified and automated. You can read it here.

Taking Care of Our Own

That's the title of one of the chapters in Alton Ballance's book, Ocracokers. There have not been many times when the aptness of the phrase has been more apparent than recently. Joyce Reynolds, our Methodist minister reminded me that the Ocracoke community has had seven deaths in the last two months. Just yesterday we gathered for the funeral of Roy Parsons.

The Assembly of God church was packed with family and friends, and for more than an hour we celebrated Roy's love of life, music, and stories. There were tender and touching moments, and there were happy and joyful moments. At least eight musicians played songs as Roy's guitar stood next to the casket. Elizabeth assured us it was what Roy would have wanted.

Last night, the Ocrafolk Opry played to a packed audience, and all proceeds went to Roy's family. The performances were stellar, and the crowd responded with enthusiasm and excitement. It was a genuine example of a community taking care of its own. Everyone was united in paying tribute to a kind and gentle musician who was no longer with us, while at the same time strengthening the bonds that keep neighbors, friends, and family connected for the common good. I'm proud to call Ocracoke home.

This month's newsletter is a story of Captain Joe Burrus, last Ocracoke lighthouse keeper before the beacon was electrified and automated. You can read it here.

Ocrafolk School Update

With the arrival of September and cooler weather, islanders are looking toward fall on Ocracoke. A number of off-islanders have signed up for classes at our new Ocrafolk School the week of October 21 - 26.

There are still spaces left for most of the classes. This is a unique opportunity to experience Ocracoke in what some consider the best season of the year while learning a new skill and enjoying the company of other creative and energetic folks. However, there have been a few changes to the offerings.

You can read the latest information about the Ocrafolk School by clicking here.

This month's newsletter is a story of Captain Joe Burrus, last Ocracoke lighthouse keeper before the beacon was electrified and automated. You can read it here.

Quieter

Over the weekend the campgrounds were overflowing, and the lifeguard beach had a fair number of folks, but the island began to quiet down yesterday afternoon. At least that's how it felt to me. I think we're all looking forward to a little more time for ourselves and our families. So many chores have piled up (cleaning, organizing, filing, gardening, painting, fixing, etc.) and now the weather is nearly perfect for catching up on those long-neglected tasks. Maybe we'll even spend a bit more time out in our boats, or in the yard, or on the beach.

This month's newsletter is a story of Captain Joe Burrus, last Ocracoke lighthouse keeper before the beacon was electrified and automated. You can read it here.

Ocrafolk Opry Star....

....and much more. Native islander, Roy Parsons, died peacefully at home yesterday evening. He was eighty-six years old, and a regular performer at the Wednesday night show, with crisp, clean cowboy shirt, guitar strapped over his shoulder, and harmonica clamped onto a holder around his neck. He sang and told stories, always bringing the audience to outbursts of spontaneous applause, and often laughter.

Roy was also a folk artist, builder of collectible model wooden boats. He could often be found working in the yard near Pamlico Gifts, on Lighthouse Road.

I visited Roy and his wife, Elizabeth, on Thursday. Elizabeth told me he had slept well during the night. Early in the morning she was awakened by Roy chatting to himself out loud. He was rhyming, something that would surprise no one who knew Roy well. Then he began singing, and even yodeling. Roy was quite a character. He was also a kind and gentle soul, loved by all. We will miss him and his quirky ways.


This month's newsletter is a story of Captain Joe Burrus, last Ocracoke lighthouse keeper before the beacon was electrified and automated. You can read it here.

Helgomizer

Last month I published Walter Howard's story of the wreck of the Black Squall in 1861. Quoting old Arcade Williams talking about a giraffe, Walter writes this: “That’s the all-fired helgomizer,” [she said] nodding her head in approval. But his neck ain’t half as long as some of ‘em’s tongues around here."

I hadn't heard the term, helgomizer, before. This morning I googled the word, but the only return I got was my own web page. I suppose I'd better check with Blanche or another island elder. Maybe helgomizer is a corruption of a more common word.

In the meanwhile, if any readers (on or off island) have ever heard of a helgomizer, please leave a comment.

Oh yes, and have a wonderful Labor Day weekend!

This month's newsletter is a story of Captain Joe Burrus, last Ocracoke lighthouse keeper before the beacon was electrified and automated. You can read it here.